(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (6 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (4 years ago)

Post #5383 LOTR documentation for silicone rings and LEDs Posted by Daditude (4 years ago)

Post #9244 TECH:PLAYFIELD Opto Driver replacement board warning Posted by PinMonk (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7036 2 years ago

Hey all! I'm about to restore one nasty LOTR pro I just picked up.

Any recommendations...like must haves?

I read if going LED's I need the OCD board. Agreed?

I will do color dmd.

Any must have mods?

Anyone have any mods that they want to sell?

I don't think I will go the full brass treatment.

What about rubber? Clear titans?

Let me know what you think. I know the sky is the limit here but I'm not looking to go high end. Just very nice restored condition!

Thanks!

20210430_190033 (2) (resized).jpg20210430_190033 (2) (resized).jpg
#7038 2 years ago

Super cool but hard to source! Sad thing is that I sold one when I bought Aaron's stash years ago as I had no need for it then

#7041 2 years ago

Watched the video. It looks amazing!

#7042 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

LED OCD is a must-have if you want to use LEDs in the inserts. I just use standard white rubber on mine. ColorDMD is excellent for LOTR, probably my favorite out of Congo, POTC, MET and GOT.
Your playfield will probably clean up great, but I’ll be listing a really nice used playfield FS soon. I replaced mine with a hand-picked Ron Kruzman playfield that I couldn’t resist. But the original looks surprisingly good for an ‘04 game. It’s HUO except for a few months at a friend’s new arcade, and a couple of pinball shows.

Thanks for the info! I agree that mine should clean up ok. Yours must be purdy with that Kruzman installed!!!!!

#7059 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I’ll post some pics when I’m 100% done, it does look sweet. I felt bad for paying $1500 for the playfield, but now that LOTR are selling for $7k+ I feel like it’s justified.

Yaman that is a hefty price but it will be so sweet!

Quoted from DeathHimself:

This title has been steadily hiking over the years, and with a slim to none chance of ever seeing a vault edition, they will always command a good dollar especially the HUO ones that were well maintained. Now send it over the top and install a Pinsound in there, it's a whole new animal after that

Only problem with pinsound, if I do one, I must do all of them

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Hahaha "pro"... pinsound board, powered sub, color DMD, sillyoldelf side art, and the Niro mod 3 pack are the top must have mods for me. The rest are all less than from there.

Oh ya lol. Was not called a pro back then!! Cool, some good food for thought there!

Quoted from TheShaft:

For me, Pinstadiums.
I’m curious to know how many are using these on their LOTR? I played mine for a couple months before getting them and I can never go back.
I definitely agree with the LED-OCD, 110% needs it if you’re going led. Path of the Dead mod fills in a barren area if you can find one. I have translucent Titans and am very happy with them, get the clear plastic protectors for the sling plastics as well. It’s also possible to find a Gandalf on Shadowfax to swap out for the grey guy, my opinion. I’m also very pleased with my choice to go with mirror blades over art blades. Have a palantir on the way from AUKraut, excited to eliminate the clear sphere.

Nice options there for sure! I have not tried pinstaduims but cant justify the cost so don't think I will. So many good options. This restore may get pricey

#7067 2 years ago

Getting close to finishing up my LOTR. Anyone have any spare mods for sale?

#7070 2 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Already shouted out...have 2 extra palantir mods (one is yours). Extra of the upgraded flipper coils (yours as well).

Yes brother. So much appreciated!!! I'm ready when you are!! I pm'd you my email as well

#7071 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Get the path of the dead mod, make it more like the LE

Ahh was that an LE thing? I have checked them out. They look cool. I guess they are hard to get though.

#7077 2 years ago
Quoted from jathomp22:

Don’t forget the autographs and shaker motor.
[quoted image]

George has the coolest signature!

#7080 2 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

Hi Pinsiders! Hoping someone can help me with a problem I've been having with my LOTR. Here's the issue. Balls have been getting pitted/worn in just about a month of play. I replace them with new ones and same issue happens. Any idea what may be causing that? I tried to see if I could identify any areas where bare metal was hitting the ball, but not sure if that may be the issue. I see the Palantir target has moved to the left, leaving a bit of exposed metal, but not sure if hitting that would be enough for this much wear this quickly.
Anyone experience something like this, or have recommendations where to look? I play about 2 games every couple of days, so I don't think enough to cause that type of wear. My Hobbit, RFM, and Centaur get played about the same and don't have that issue.

Do you have the blue square rubber on the left side still? Maybe it has worn off and ball is hitting ball guide?

#7082 2 years ago
Quoted from GTO:

Yes, I still have it and doesn't appear to be worn. A bit dirty maybe, but still there and protruding past the metal lane guide.

Maybe remove the apron and the top of the trough (4 screws) and have a look in the trough for any wear? And maybe check the tips of the jump ramp, while shopping mine up I noticed the 2 tips of the jump ramp have a bit of denting (looks like from the ball rejecting the ring and backfiring onto the tips).

#7084 2 years ago

Sorry to bring this up again but I have read a lot of threads on this topic and still unsure the way to go regarding upgrading the flipper coils. It sounds like this was a design flaw so not sure about keeping the original coils. Mine is NOT the LE version. Game is HUO and never serviced so coils are original.

I'm still restoring and haven't played a game yet (not on legs) so not sure how flippers are yet.

Either way I will be rebuilding the flippers.

Options:

1. Replace both coils with upgraded coils. (adjust power settings if needed).

2. Replace left coil only. (adjust power settings if needed).

3. Keep originals. (adjust power settings if needed).

Are there any other options and which is the best option. I'm leaning towards number 1.

Also from what I read adjusting the flipper power settings does not seem to do much? Can anyone chime in on that?

Thanks, Mike

#7086 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Start with #3 (original coils), they may be fine after a flipper rebuild. I can add that I replaced my left flipper coil with the stronger one, and now I have a broken slingshot plastic. So I’ll be going back to original.

Cool. Thanks for the input!

#7090 2 years ago

I was just filing off the mushrooming on the tips of my center jump ramp and I noticed that the left fork is bent up a little higher than the right fork. I'm trying to determine if someone bent it up to try and help the ball into the ring or if it is factory. Anyone noticed that on their ramp?

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#7097 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

You didn't mention it so I will, make sure you get the medium LOTR coils, not the full strength break yer plastic coils
The true "medium" coil is apparently no longer for sale on here. There were some on ebay as well lthough they look to be out of stock.
https://ebay.com/itm/New-Stern-Pinball-Medium-Power-Coil-Lord-of-the-Rings-Guns-Roses-sleeve-/221941822782?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337059215&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

Right I forgot about the medium ones as an option!

#7098 2 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Any advice on replacing the microswitch in balrog? Can i do it easily with him still in the game?

I just took him apart tonight. Yep remove from game, one connector underneath and remove the coder pin on the post and rest is easy. take bracket off the back (2 screws) and you have access to he switch. It may just need adjustment. If you have not seen the switcht then you might not conclude it needs to be replaced just yet.

#7099 2 years ago

My 2005 LOTR has factory metal washers under the slings.

#7110 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Mine did too, until I replaced them with plexi washers. I’m switching back to metal. Anybody have a right slingshot plastic they want to sell me?

Damn, your sling plastic broke even with a lexan washer there?

#7111 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

Here's an example of the right skew I am referring to from a classified ad. You can't unsee it now and will look everytime
[quoted image]

I literally did this last night! I was going to post it as well so I'm glad you mentioned it. My ramp was skewed to the right and even touching the wireform switch beside it. I think I have a pic actually I will post. I pushed my ramp to the left when tightening to line up the ramp better. I will also bend the tip back down. I guess the previous owners must have bent the left tip up to angle the ball to the right. Nice touch with the yellow bulb! I may try that!

20210510_183953 (resized).jpg20210510_183953 (resized).jpg
#7112 2 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Flipper strength and what coil to run is always confusing with LOTR...
It REALLY depends on your set-up...
I have heard people say “Rebuilding your flippers correctly is all you need.” Not always true for some people.
***Definitely start with rebuilding flippers***
It all depends on how steep, how long you play, what your “flipper power” adjustment setting is, AND the version of code you are running...
It all comes down to this- rebuild your flippers perfectly, adjust all flipper settings ten different times, spend money on 3 different sets of coils, adjust your EOS switch, use 2 sets of coils as paper weights, and still miss the ring when you REALLY need it...

Haha yes totally! The confusion for LOTR flippers is real. I will start by actually playing my game, when it is on legs, and go from there

#7114 2 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Thanks I'll give it a whirl, I've opened him up and the switch "prongs" are lose within the switch so I think it just needs replacing. It's working intermittently so just a lose connection within the switch. Thanks for the tips

Ahh yes if the nubs are worn then new microswitch body time Good luck!

#7119 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

If the problem is “flipper fade” (flippers getting weaker as they heat up), I’ve had success with 2 approaches:
- RC car engine heat sinks
- PinMonk’s fans

And that is with original coils right?

#7121 2 years ago

OK cool thanks! My playfield is reassembled and getting close to playing it!

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#7122 2 years ago

I found this plastic on the playfield before I started tearing it apart. I am guessing it goes in the area that I am showing in the photo. Can anyone confirm this for me please.

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#7126 2 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

I've rebuilt my flippers and have stock coils, the Pinball Life ones (WAY too strong) and the APB ones are currently installed which are better but still a little too strong. I'm waiting to see if they improve as my flipper rebuild ages...

Sweet man thanks for chiming in much appreciated.

Quoted from attyrhodes:

It goes to the right of the sword lock, near the shooting lane. No idea what purpose it serves, I think I took mine off.

Quoted from hollywood:

Right here brother:[quoted image]

Thanks guys that makes perfect sense. I saw the two standoffs in that area and thought it was a little strange. And nobody ever really touched this machine so I didn't understand how it could be removed but now I see how it could have popped off the standoffs. I am guessing it is to prevent the ball from getting stuck but if it never gets stuck there and the plastic is going to keep popping off then it is probably causing more problems than it is solving.

#7128 2 years ago

Ok next question. I was eyeing up this area during my restoration and wondering about it. It is an odd area of the playfield. It is not protected well from the ball. The ball can clunk around this area where the ball should not really be. The ball is also hitting the switch stack and I'm guessing this is why I found 2 partially severed wires on the connector that feeds through this hole. The ball probably kept bashing the wires into the sharp edge of the metal ramp. Is this just bad design? Do all LOTR's have this design? Mine is a 2005 so if it was going to get revised it would have been done by 2005 I would think. Anyways I just don't like how the ball clunks around in that area. Not sure anything can be done about it though.

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#7131 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

My 2003 is the same way. Although I don't have any evidence of the ball smashing the switch and that shorty post prevents it from going under the ramp. How is your outer orbit rail...maybe it is bent and deflecting the shot inward to the switch when it passes by on its way back down?[quoted image]

Thanks man! Yes the shorty post is the only real protection for the ball getting in that area. My outer orbit is fine but I don't have the machine on legs and it is not level either (on my pump cart) and not pitched properly so the clunk may reduce when it is all set up BUT I'm sure the severed wires were due to the ball bouncing around in there and hitting the wires against the edge of the ramp. And it seemed that stern tried to take precaution for this connector wire as there was a piece of tape on the wires right beside the severed area. Not sure if the tape was to hold the connector wires out of the way of trouble or to help with some added protection.

Found a pic of the wire in question. It is from the sword ramp and feeds under the right ramp into that trouble area. You can see the piece of tape! The is right where the wires were almost severed!

hffhf_LI (resized).jpghffhf_LI (resized).jpg
#7132 2 years ago

Here are the wires close up after fixing it.

gjghhj (resized).JPGgjghhj (resized).JPG
1 week later
#7167 2 years ago

My game is freshly shopped and now am getting some games on it. Trying to destroy the ring.

My friend destroys the ring at 16:40 in this video.

In the very same game I have about 3 failed attempts at 19:20 where the ball goes right through the ring but nothing happens.

I have adjusted and checked my spinner switch and it is good and the ring opto and magnet work just fine. Must the be the switch in behind the back panel right? I adjusted and tested it during my shop job but maybe it needs to be bent down a bit more. What do you think?

I thought factory settings were where you had to knock the ball out of the ring to destroy it (2 shots) but my current settings the ring does not hold the ball so I will have to check my settings as well.

Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!!

#7171 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

The game is designed to spit out the ball occasionally, it is not a fault. Done it on every LOTR I have played. Find related settings in your menu.[quoted image]

Great thanks. My 3amp fuse blew during that game session last night so I popped in a 4amp. Not sure why it blew. Been good since.

Do most people like it set to number 2 cause of its awesomeness or number 1 so that you dont blow up your fuse?

#7172 2 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

The switch is part number: 180-5057-00
It is $4.49 from Marco:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=180-5057-00
I think there is a little soldering but it just took a minute.

Right on thanks for all the info! I can see how that switch needs to be just perfect! The back trough is one of the only parts that I did not remove when I shopped it. Looks like a pain in the ass! If I need to replace the microswitch I will do that. I have some switch bodies in stock and would hope to reuse the actuator.

#7174 2 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

No you don't need to remove the ramp. You just need to pull the playfield out far enough to reach behind the back board. There are two small screws holding the switch on and you can remove them and the switch comes out. The wires are long enough that you can pull it up and then desolder and connect the new switch.
Also, I wouldn't change a fuse with a higher rating. If it blows something is likely wrong. Changing it to a higher rating is just going to cause something to overheat. You probably have a intermittent short or something like that.

Ahh ok great thanks!

I thought I read that there was a service bulletin or something where it was recommended to up the amperage on that fuse up to five amp or something.

#7175 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Check F20 on the Power Driver board, rated 4A SB. Specific fuse for the magnet only. If I remember right Stern did later recommend to upping this to a 5A SB.

This is regarding the service bulletin I was referencing. Looks like going up to 5 amp is recommended.

#7177 2 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

No you don't need to remove the ramp. You just need to pull the playfield out far enough to reach behind the back board. There are two small screws holding the switch on and you can remove them and the switch comes out. The wires are long enough that you can pull it up and then desolder and connect the new switch.

Thanks Swapped the switch last night and shortly after destroyed the ring for the 1st time

#7186 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

Congrats on the fix!

Thanks!!

Quoted from Ashram56:

So I see that you're having sometime the same issue as me, ie the ball shot cannot dislodge the ball in the ring. I've hit it solidly 4 times, the ball just bounce on it.

I did not have that issue. I was just not hitting the ramp cleanly. Once I replaced my switch, the 1st time I knocked the ball it worked like a charm!

Quoted from Morgoth00:

Legend says that *only* the LE was the one to get a 5A, while the standard bumped up to a 4A. This would infer that the LE had a different coil.. Unfortunately there was never a LE manual version, so can't prove it there. Lots of people claiming to be running a 5A in their standard as well. Maybe someone here can confirm their LE had a different magnet p/n to lend some fact to this mystery.
Just a thought- are you running quality fuses? They may blow too quickly if not.
If your magnet is worn out enough to draw over 4A then of course it will never be ok with 4A. Why don't you break the circuit and test the amp draw on the magnet with your MM to see what its pulling. It might be just slightly over 4A during startup.
Here's a simple explanation if you need it-
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+check+amps&client=ms-android-verizon&prmd=visn&sxsrf=ALeKk00urX-F9am1vlSLrMuSSozTVyHS9Q:1621843598067&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjqpayc7uHwAhWuKDQIHYvDDnIQ_AUoAXoECAIQAQ&biw=412&bih=733&dpr=2.63#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:a1d9cf89,vid:x2NLYydxbo4,st:0

Ever since I changed mine from a 3amp to a 4 amp it has not blown (standard ed) but only played a couple nights on the 4amp but both nights were about 4 hour sessions straight.

#7187 2 years ago
Quoted from TheShaft:

Managed to beat There and Back Again running 2X scoring. Not sure I’ll ever best this score.
[quoted image]

Thats wild! Nice job!! Just learning mine. Just destroyed ring this weekend. How do I get there and back again? Is it playing all modes? Haven't done that yet. Had 5 of 6 once.

#7189 2 years ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Exactly - play all modes, qualify ring again, shoot ring to start TABA
optional: get excited you finally made it to TABA and immediately drain

Ahh cool! Thanks. Haha yep I'm sure that will happen!!

#7197 2 years ago
Quoted from ragefactory:

Hi,
if you are looking for LOTR (and other pinball) mods check my mod list at this Link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sQUuOYTcoNVUyCiY9ad0D1NXttV2xgxn/view?usp=sharing
Thanks

Lots of cool mods there! I will prob have to get the bookcase at least when I do my TAF

#7205 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Plan on getting a Colordmd since that plasma looks to have problems.

That is likley just photo effect. Hard to take a good pic of dmd sometimes but still...color dmd YES!!!!!!!

#7208 2 years ago

what are the must have protectors for this machine? I see the cliffy set. (link below).

http://www.passionforpinball.com/lotr/LOTR-Complete-Set001.jpg

I have had mixed results with cliffy protectors.

Any one have any installed for a long time and how are they holding up over time? are they getting beat up? holding up ok?

what other protectors are recommended? where the ball falls from POTD I'm guessing is a good one to get.

Thanks in advance!

1 week later
#7241 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

If anyone has a routed or ratty LOTR and is looking for an inexpensive upgrade...
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/115945
I’ll drop the price once a week until it sells, and I’m open for offers.

Ouch that must have hurt? Anyone else have that insert pop out? Were you cleaning it from the underside?

#7243 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Yep, and I wasn’t even pressing that hard. Learn from my fail, folks! I would have been happy with my repair if I hadn’t found a really nice playfield hand-picked and cleared by Ron Kruzman.

That must be a beauty!!!!

#7245 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

It is, but I’m still working through some swap gremlins. I should take some good pics before I play too many games on it.

For sure!!

#7246 2 years ago

Who uses the directors cut? I watched Karl's valinor video and he was using it. I asked him why and he said it is because some of the factory settings were dictated by management at the time and directors cut sets the game how Keith intended it to be. He also said that is the reason for the Gary-rog Easter egg (which I never heard of) and now must look up

#7249 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I recommend it. It turns off the annoying consolation Balrog, and generally chooses settings for best dramatic affect.
With the consolation Balrog turned on, you can enter a flipper code and then see a Gary animation when you hit it in that mode.

Right on. I am going to give it a try!

#7254 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Is that a specific ROM code, or pre-installed profile?
Need to dig it up now...

I believe it would be in the installs menu. (no special rom)

#7263 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I finally resolved my last few playfield swap issues, and grabbed some pics of Ron Kruzman’s excellent work before I start flipping. BTW, if anyone has a spare pair of sling plastics they’d like to sell me, please send me a PM.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thats purrrrrrdy! Very nice job (you and Kruzman both)

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