FYI, there is a "secret" 7th Elf Gift that must be acquired before reaching Valinor.

Source: Keefer

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/valinor-awaits-but#post-2162216

It lights the "Gift" arrow itself, and it triggers a cool secret mode.

The ColorDMD for LOTR is probably the best mod available for this game, IMO. Absolutely stunning!

Steve Groothuis at Pinball Refinery makes a nice PotD mod. I have one and can personally vouch for it's quality.

http://pinballrefinery.bravesites.com/store#!/Complete-LOTR-Pinball-PoTD-modification/p/20527694/category=4730921

FYI, it says it is "In Stock" on the above page, but "(Sold Out), Taking Pre-orders for next Production Run" on the "Sample Videos of Our Mods" page. I would contact Steve via email to determine current status.

FWIW, I have the PBL upgraded coils AND two cooling fans under the playfield. Coil fade becomes obvious during lengthy games, even with the upgraded coils. It not only affects whether you can hit the One Ring consistently, but it also affects the accuracy of all of the other shots on the playfield. JMHO.

No, the fans are preventing coil fade during long games. Coil fade (not coil strength) affects the accuracy of ALL of the shots on the table.

Sorry, man. I'm away from home right now, so I can't take pics, but my setup is very similar to the one described by MRWIZZO in the following thread, which was my original inspiration...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-flipper-cooling-fans

I finally completed There And Back Again (TABA) for the very first time this weekend, and I did it, surprisingly, with a stacked Gollum Multiball.

Now that my skills have improved, I reach TABA pretty frequently, but because it's a high-risk mode (multiple Ring shots required) and completion is not necessary to reach Valinor, I often play it conservatively just to avoid drains. So I had no idea that Gollum could be stacked with TABA, because it's a mini wizard mode mode like Destroy The Ring (DTR), and DTR can't be stacked with anything else.

Needless to say, I was surprised when I found myself shooting TABA shots with two balls in play, but it definitely made it much easier to complete.

Thanks, guys. Yes, TABA is a fantastic mode, as is FOTR Multiball and DTR.

FWIW, I rarely focus on score in LOTR. All I really care about is progress towards Valinor (i.e., TABA + 3 MBs + 7 Elf Gifts + DTR). I'd much rather reach Valinor with only 200,000,000 points than post a score four times higher than that (800,000,000+).

Well, the Elves must be smiling on me. I just completed TABA for the second time, but with a single ball this time. WooHoo!

Have you tested this by hand with the glass off? Is the magnet grabbing the ball? Are you activating the spinner switch before the ball hits the ring?

Actually, all you have to do is START the 6 ring modes. Completion of the modes is not necessary.

To complete TABA itself, you have to hit the ring ramp a 1st time, hit one of the flashing lanes a 1st time, hit the ring ramp a 2nd time, hit a 2nd flashing lane, hit the ring ramp a 3rd time, hit a 3rd flashing lane... etc.... until you hit the last flashing lane, and then hit the ring ramp one last time. TABA complete.

If you complete TABA, you also get an Elf Gift, so there is some upside besides just points, but completion of the mode is not required to progress to Valinor.

I finally broke the 1:00 minute barrier on DTR a few weeks ago, but forgot to post a pic!

016.JPG

Pacman, are the Fellowship characters' LEDs truly too bright, or are they simply ghosting or flickering and just becoming a distraction?

If they're just too bright, any color other than white would reduce the perceived brightness. Green, red, orange, and yellow are already used throughout the game, so you could pick one of those colors, or mix and match. It's really just your personal preference.

If they're ghosting/flickering, you should consider installing Herg's LED-OCD mod, which not only eliminates ghosting/flickering, but can also be tuned to modify the brightness of individual bulbs or groups of bulbs across the board (e.g., only inserts, only GI, or all).

IMO, anyone who installs LEDs in LOTR should add the LED-OCD mod, because that addition is a marked improvement in this particular game.

http://ledocd.com/

Thanks. I hope so, but sometimes it seems so far away.

http://www.jayspinball.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49&products_id=198&zenid=2uh9evuhi6c0iou0g5np3l1lb3

Palantir-Final.JPG

Doh! Check your emails. I sent you one on March 11th.

If you hope to reach Valinor some day, don't buy any of the various mods that divert the ball from the POTD straight to the left ramp habitrail. You'll want the bonus souls available from the Shire in order to qualify ROTK as soon as possible. I would recommend just buying a plastic protector from Little Shop of Games for the Arwen plastic beneath the POTD and a Cliffy protector for the Shire, and hope that more balls drop into the Shire instead of onto the habitrail.

Can't wait to hear your first gameplay review.

Yes, I have Herg's LED OCD kit, and it makes a world of difference. There is no ghosting or flickering on my machine. I placed my LED order with Comet, so if you use that list, Art will recognize it, and it will give you everything you need.

Welcome to the LOTR owners group.

I installed both of those mods on my LOTR, as well as many other mods, so I can help you out. I'm about 45 minutes west of you, so you could drop by my place and actually see them installed.

If you've got the POTD mod from Pinball Refinery, I can walk you through the instruction sheets and photos sent by Steve Groothuis, and if you bring your mini-playfield parts over, I can help you do some of the prep work to help make your installation task easier. I installed both mods just a few months ago, so the installation processes are pretty fresh on my mind.

PM me if you're interested.

Do you know what software revision is loaded on the ROM?

Yes, updating the CPU ROM resets the number of plays. Just make sure you update to v10.02. That's the latest CPU code, so it contains all of the feature adjustments and bug fixes throughout the life of the game.

Ugh! Sorry to hear that.

Well, that's good! Glad to see he's taking care of you. Looking forward to seeing the video(s)!

Looks like a beauty. Congrats!

I don't even attempt Witchking anymore. Because of the difficulty, there's just too much risk for too little reward, once you factor in the probability of actually completing the mode. I just activate it en route to TABA and then keep working towards other goals.

Sometimes the Gollum VUK takes multiple attempts because of a simply alignment issue. Loosen the nut holding the wireform above it in place, and align it to exactly center over the VUK by visually looking down from directly above the VUK. Once it's perfectly aligned, the VUK will usually perform well. If it's still misfiring, it's probably a coil or sleeve issue.

There are 3 Cliffy protectors for LOTR (Orthanc Tower VUK, Gimli VUK, and Shire VUK).

http://www.passionforpinball.com/lotr.htm

The latest CPU software version, released in October 2005, is v10.00 (Standard Edition) or 10.02 (Limited Edition).

The Arwen plastic is particularly vulnerable to breakage from the impact of balls dropping from the Paths of the Dead mini-playfield.

The game has lots of mods available, for both protection and aesthetics. There are too many to list here, but a quick search of Pinside will produce many threads dedicated to LOTR mods.

PM your email address to Steve at Pinball Refinery (HemiOrange09), and he will send you the installation instructions.

www.pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-lotr-potd-mod-complete-kits-fading-leds-in-figures-by-hemi/page/5#post-2785497

"There and Back Again" is awesome, isn't it?

I think you'll enjoy this video...

LOTR has longer-than-average ball times. That's a fact, and you don't have to be a hater to acknowledge this.

Obviously, you can set the game up to shorten average ball times (i.e., open the outlanes, increase the difficulty settings), but the playfield layout, with the Shire "safety net" that catches many out-of-control balls on the left hand side of the playfield and safely delivers them to the left flipper, is going to leave you with longer ball times on average than, say, IM.

I think this is the one you want...

Lord of the Rings - LOTR - Battle Scale Figures - Armies of Middle-Earth - Fighting Fellowship - with Fighting Gimli, Fighting Boromir and Fighting Legolas - 2" / 5cm

Here's one on eBay...

ebay.com link: LORD OF THE RINGS FIGHTING FELLOWSHIP ARMIES OF MIDDLE EARTH 3 PACK

Both "incandescent" lights and "warm white" on the color temperature chart definitely have a slight yellow tint.

correlated_color_temperature_(resized).jpg

You and me both, my friend. Sometimes I just time out that mode, due to the difficulty. I've beaten RotK MB, TABA, and DTR many times, but I've never beaten the Witch King.

I used to worry about this, straightening mine a couple of times, but I now think having it leaning slightly to the left makes it a little easier to hit the Gimli VUK shot instead of just passing straight through to the Boromir pop bumpers. If you intentionally hit the right side of the target, especially back-handing from the right flipper, it kills some of the momentum, limiting pass-throughs.

I've got 4 Cliffy protectors on mine: Gimli, Orthanc, Shire, and under the Blue Nub of Death (Cliffy's newest). They're not too hard to install. If you need any installation help, I can guide you.

Edit: Link to more info on the latest LOTR Cliffy protector... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-thanks-for-the-fix-cliffy

Just out of curiosity, which one did you get? The large 2-piece splint, or the small 1-piece splint?

http://mezelmods.com/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721

Note: There is a "Store Owner" comment below the very bottom user review that says, "A quick clarification on this post- the Stern splints do not currently work with the Palintir LOTR targets. We have this one on our to do list!"

FYI, I just ran across an official LOTR Playfield Shot Map. I don't recall seeing it before, so I thought I should share it here, in case any fellow owners haven't seen it.

There's not any new information here. Most LOTR owners probably know this stuff by heart. Nevertheless, it is a good graphical reference, and it might be helpful to new owners.

Click each PDF attachment for clear, full-size views.

Stern_The_Lord_of_the_Rings_755-5180-00-SM1.pdf
Stern_The_Lord_of_the_Rings_755-5180-00-SM2.pdf

If the coil itself is malfunctioning, you may need to replace it, but let me step back and ask another diagnostic question first. Have you visually confirmed that the coil is not dropping the post, or are you just assuming this because the ball is not releasing?

Sometimes a ball held in the sword ramp ball lock won't release because it's magnetized and sticking to the ball behind it. Some pinballs are prone to magnetization, and being held by the ring magnet for minutes at a time during Destroy The Ring can magnetize them. The problem often manifests itself at the sword ramp ball lock when more than one ball is locked. If the balls are magnetized, replace them with new ones specifically made for use in games with magnets.

These are the ones you want to buy (c/o the Internet Archive Wayback Machine):

-- Premium Ultra-Gloss Pinball (Product ID : ooohhh_shiiiiny) -- $1.50 ea.

http://web.archive.org/web/20160420230854/http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1325

Like TimeBandit said, the regular website it down, so you'll have to wait until Terry and Margaret return from their summer vacation before you can place an order.

Premium_Ultra-Gloss_Pinball_(resized).jpg

Better look at the PinballLife product description again.

That wireform over the Gollum VUK has a LOT of room for adjustment. I've seen several machines have problems with the VUK getting the ball up onto the wireform due to simple misalignment, causing the VUK to fire 3-4 times on each ball before the ball transfers to the wireform.

The first thing I would recommend is to remove the glass, loosen the nuts holding the wireform above the VUK, and manually move the centerline of the receiving scoop directly above the centerline of the plunger on the VUK, verifying the final position visually from directly above the VUK. You might be surprised how far off the two centerlines are. When everything is centered, simply tighten up the nuts and test the VUK manually with the glass still off.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

The original design allows the ball to go to either: (a) the Shire and then to the habitrail via the Shire VUK, or (b) directly to the habitrail. Eventually, all balls that reach the POTD will end up on the habitrail feeding the left flipper.

To the best of my knowledge, no diverters from the POTD to the habitrail were ever installed on factory LOTRs. Those were all aftermarket mods installed by owners. Most people that installed the diverters simply didn't want to suffer through the gameplay delays of the POTD miniplayfield, and they were willing to live with fewer Souls gained by the additional delay in the Shire in exchange for a shorter POTD cycle time.

I have a spare translite (used) that I can sell. If you decide to buy that machine, I'm sure we can work out a reasonable price.

This scene is the source for that particular call-out (~3:36 mark), as well as many others in the game:

After a rather frustrating night of playing over 2 hours straight without much success, everything came together in one magical game, which finished shortly after midnight. Destroyed the Ring twice, started There And Back Again, and obtained 4 Elf Gifts.

It felt good to leave this score up on the Color DMD for the rest of the night.

IMG_2136 (resized).JPG

IMG_2127 (resized).JPG

Thanks! I *wish* it was just four games. More like 8-10 frustratingly short ones, and then that epic final.

I did have all incandescents at first (including in the Ringwraith flasher), but installed Comet LEDs throughout and added Herg's LED OCD board to control the inserts. I'm not sure if it also controls the flashers? They are part of the lamp matrix, so it's possible?

Anyway, now that you've mentioned the incandescent pulsing during the Ringwraith mode, I want to replace that LED flasher with the old incandescent, remove the glass, and test out the Ringwraith mode to watch for any differences. Frankly, when a mode is active, I'm usually so focused on shot-making that I don't really notice things in my peripheral vision, especially in the upper right quarter of the playfield. Now that you've mentioned it, I want to check it out.

Thanks again.

Gomez's game design on LOTR is fairly nuanced, with several design elements having multiple purposes.

For example, the Orthanc Tower VUK is featured in at least 3 different aspects of gameplay. You can hit it directly with the plunger shot to collect the Tower skill shot. You can hit it from a right inlane feed to the right flipper using the left orbit to collect Souls from the Paths of the Dead mini playfield. And you also *have* to hit it repeatedly to complete the War of the Ents mode, either directly when the diverter gate on the inner loop opens, or indirectly via the the right or left orbits when the rear riser post is activated by the orbit switches.

Similarly, the Gollum's Cave VUK is also featured in multiple aspects of gameplay. You can start Gollum multiball there with a direct hit. You can also collect Gimli there when qualifying Fellowship of the Rings multiball. You also *have* to hit that shot at the beginning of the Escape the Ringwraiths mode before the inserts for all the other main shots will light. Finally, you also collect Extra Balls and Specials there when those features are activated. Nevertheless, despite this shot's importance in overall gameplay, it happens to be one of the most difficult shots to hit on the playfield. Balls can get there either from the flippers, or from the pop bumpers just above it, but direct shots from the flippers can easily pass over the saucer and enter the pop bumpers, which often results in a perfectly aimed shot not actually qualifying as a hit. Consequently, it is one of the hardest shots to master in the long quest towards Valinor.

LOTR Valinor Run - Keith Elwin

Brew a pot of coffee, settle in for a spell, and watch a world champion pinball player easily tame this beast wizard mode!

Nope, that's my game. I posted that photo of my progress on Gifts of the Elves after a monster game I played two weeks ago. See Post #959 above.

BTW, I love that "monstrous ugly metal thingy". It's one of the best playfield protectors that Cliff Rinear has ever made.

Here are a couple of before and after shots for comparison...

Before:

IMG_5446.JPG

After:

IMG_2217.JPG

It's called Consolation Balrog, and it was added to the code after the game was released, because some players complained that Balrog did not come out frequently enough during normal gameplay. It can be disabled in LOTR Feature Adjustment #34 or through Install Directors Cut.

There is actually an old thread about this topic here on Pinside...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-ownersplayers-disable-consolationbash-balrog

LOTR_Feature_Adjustment_34_Consolation_Balrog.jpg

Install_Directors_Cut.jpg

Correct, but Gollum multiball (not one of the 3 movie MBs) *will* allow you to stack a ring mode after the MB starts.

Animal, try starting Gollum MB before you start a ring mode, and you will increase your chances to complete the mode.

For some reason, when the game was released, it only had characters for 6 of the 9 Fellowship members on the playfield (i.e., Pippen, Merry, Sam, Aragorn, Frodo, and Gandalf), but was missing Legolas (left ramp), Gimli (right VUK), and Boromir (pop bumpers). So I bought a LOTR "Armies of the Dead" collectibles pack containing the missing characters on eBay, and I added them to my playfield this week.
Legolas (left ramp)
image.jpeg
Gimli (right VUK)
image.jpeg
Boromir (pop bumpers)
image.jpeg
I also relocated my Sparky's Micro Display Mod to the right side of the playfield for better visibility.
image.jpeg

Added over 8 years ago: Oops! I misspoke earlier. The collectible pack that I purchased on eBay is called "Lord of the Rings, Armies of Middle Earth, Soldiers & Scenes, Fighting Fellowship".

Here is a wider shot showing the new characters in the upper playfield.

image.jpeg

Oops! I misspoke earlier. The collectible pack that I purchased on eBay is the "Lord of the Rings, Armies of Middle Earth, Fighting Fellowship" pack.

Depends on whether the game is set for Fast Boot or Slow Boot. If it's set for Fast Boot, hold the R Flipper button in while turning the game on. After about 3-4 seconds, the software versions should show on the display. If it's set for Slow Boot, there is no need to hold the R Flipper button in during start up. This information will display when the game is turned on.

A10.00 is the latest code release for the Standard Edition. A10.02 is the latest code release for the Limited Edition. (A10.02 can also be run on the Standard Edition to enable shaker motor functionality, if you have the corresponding PAL chip. Otherwise, there is no difference between A10.00 and A10.02.)

On Factory Settings, the three Elf Rings should be lit at the start, allowing you to begin a ring mode with the first successful shot up the Ring Ramp.

PS - Read this. It's not completely up to date, but it is a great starting point.

http://pinball.org/rules/lordoftherings.txt

On my game, I went with Comet's 2-SMD, frosted, bullet-top LEDs for all of the inserts. Almost all of the inserts were color-matched except yellow, where I used warm white LEDs, per Art's suggestion. I used a single RGB color-changing LED for the Palantir insert, specifically to draw more attention to that important shot.

On the GI bulbs, I used warm white 2-SMD, frosted, bullet-top LEDs.

Those were just my personal choices. Most of the lighting decisions really boil down to personal preference, and those decisions can be easily changed or reversed if your friend decides to sell the game later.

Most importantly, though, if you install LEDs in LOTR, you should seriously consider installing an LED-OCD kit (made by Herg here on Pinside) to smooth out the lighting transitions and fades to make those features equivalent to incandescent bulbs. On this particular game, it is one of the most important mods to consider, if you decide to go with LED bulbs.

That's good. It'll actually save him some money on the bulbs, too. Herg recommends using basic, non-premium bulbs with his board, since they allow the board to provide better lighting control. Premium, non-ghosting bulbs are not necessary or desired with the LED-OCD board.

Agreed. They get bent very easily and need to be straightened.

LOTR spinners get beat to hell on the bottom edge and should be considered a replaceable item. I've had my game for 2 years, and I've replaced the spinner twice. If mere straightening doesn't work, I recommend just buying a replacement.

I've had to replace my Shire VUK switch twice in the last 2 years. I've only had to adjust my Golum VUK switch in the same period, but haven't had to replace it.

I have the stronger coils from Pinball Life.

If you feel those are too strong, there is another option available on eBay. It's a medium-powered coil sold by Andrew Barney (APB_Enterprises here on Pinside).

ebay.com link: New Stern Pinball Medium Power Coil Lord of the Rings Guns Roses sleeve

Most likely the wireform scoop above the VUK is slightly off-center. There is a huge amount of play in its position, so it's easy to get off-center during a shop job. Just loosen the lock nuts holding the wireform down near the VUK, and center it by eye, looking directly down from above the VUK. Once it's centered up/down and right/left, tighten the lock nuts, and the problem will probably go away.

Rai, if your new-to-you game has seen a lot of plays over the years, you may simply need to rebuild your flipper mechs. That was the first thing I did after buying my game. The cost of flipper rebuild kits are very reasonable.

The following parts will allow you to completely rebuild both flipper mechs relatively inexpensively...

Flipper rebuild kit (1 kit):
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SFLKIT

Flipper bat bushings (2 each, not included in the above kit):
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5070-00

For background reference, you should read and bookmark the following invaluable thread from Vid1900 to see what can go wrong with each component of the flipper mechanism, and how rebuilding the mechs with fresh replacement parts and properly gapping the EOS switches can help improve flipper performance.

Vid's Guide to Upgrading & Rebuilding Flippers:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

I disagree. Cooling fans on the coils work perfectly and were actually used by Keith Elwin in his recent epic quest to Valinor.

Jay's making another run...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-projected-eye-palantir-mod/page/9#post-3305315

SE or LE? Diode or no diode? Photos?

Here you go... The two transitors are marked with blue arrows inside the red circle. Click twice to maximize zoom for more detail.

LOTR_IO_Power_Driver_Board.jpg

If you want to use the Hi-res or Scan modes, you'll need the LCD display. If you are going to stick with Dots, then you can use the LED display.

The video below shows what the LCD looks like in Scan mode...

I used Comet's 2-SMD warm white bulbs for the GI, and Comet's 2-SMD color-matching bulbs for the inserts (except for the yellow inserts, where I substituted warm white instead). I'm very pleased with the result.

I also installed the LED-OCD board, which makes a huge difference for the fading and transitions of the light show on this particular pin. It's definitely worth the investment. Herg rocks!

The Balrog harness is easy enough to rebuild (I've done it before), but this is another cheap alternative.

ebay.com link: itm

Contact Hemiorange09 (Steve), who created that mod, via the Private Message system on Pinside. He can send you the installation instructions.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/hemiorange09

Correct. Here are a couple of links...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004 (contains detailed specs and diagrams)
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173 (cheaper source)

The green inlane and outlane inserts spell "KEEP", not "LOCK", but they do enable the sword lock on the right ramp.

Current flows in the direction of the arrow. The diode prevents backflow.

IMG_0562 (resized).PNG
IMG_0563 (resized).PNG

Agreed.

I can't find this product currently on the Pinball Life website, but Pinbits still sells it.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=de5a2898b03521f0687bb0d733f1bfb0

Looks great! That poem does scroll across the DMD during attract mode, but I don't think it is anywhere else in the game.

Just put a thin piece of opaque diffuser film between the LED ring board and the playfield. Or use a blank piece of white paper, for a quick and cheap fix.

LCD and DotXL is my personal preference for LOTR.

Some are more careful than others when they leave their mark.

George_Gomez_Game_Designer.jpg

Here ya go.

It’s not a bug. It’s a feature!

Lighting the Palantir and then collecting it via the Mystery award will usually (but not always) add-a-ball in the three movie multiballs. (To light Palantir, shoot the left orbit to reach the Barad-dur tower on the upper right corner of the playfield, and to collect Palantir, simply hit the white target below the globe next to the right VUK, a/k/a Gollum's Cave.)

Yeah, ditch the lightning flippers before you tweak the flipper adjustment settings away from the standard settings in the software. This is a terrible application for lightning flippers, because the ring shot requires extra distance (crossing the entire length of the playfield) and elevation (launching up the ring ramp) to hit a target in the back of the cabinet. Even with upgraded coils, the shorter flipper length will not allow enough force near the end of the flipper to hit the ring shot reliably.

The copper conductor wires inside the Balrog wiring harness often break inside their plastic insulators, due to: (a) pinching from the cable ties on the vertical mounting post next to the Balrog, and (b) the repetitive twisting force on the harness from the rotation of the Balrog mech. This is difficult to detect visually, even if you remove the heat-shrink tubing on the outside of the wiring harness, because you cannot see the broken conductor wires inside their plastic insulators. The best way to troubleshoot this type of failure is to unplug the wiring harness connector beneath the playfield and test for continuity on each wire with a multimeter while twisting the wires to replicate the flex encountered during the mech's rotation.

If this proves to be the problem, replacement Balrog wiring harnesses are readily available...

ebay.com link: Lord Of The Rings Lotr Pinball New Balrog Wiring Harness

That gallery photo is of my machine.

More information on that particular Cliffy protector can be found on the thread below, which includes Cliff’s email address for special requests:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-thanks-for-the-fix-cliffy

What was his posted DTR time that you are struggling to beat?

See Service Bulletin #148 (Balrog LED Module Installation) for more details:

http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/downloads/sb148.pdf

Those two parts don’t look the same, but the latter one (Pinball Life) appears to be the same mini bayonet socket used in the out-of-stock Balrog LED Kit at Marco Specialties:

LORD OF THE RINGS (STERN) BALROG LED KIT (#502-5022-00)

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5022-00

That is the exact kit part number referenced in the Service Bulletin, and the bayonet socket appears to match the socket photos at the top and bottom of the Service Bulletin.

Note: You will need to bend the 2 solder lugs and the screw lug for the light assembly to fit inside the Balrog bash toy, as you can see more clearly in the bottom right photo on the Service Bulletin, showing it actually mounted inside the Balrog. Also don’t forget to add the insulators on the solder lugs to prevent electrical shorts.

Line it up like this...

6412CE0E-41F9-43B5-9A8B-0EEDFE8AB6E2 (resized).jpeg

FWIW, Keith agrees.

Bulb Caps/Condoms from Pinball Life

https://www.pinballlife.com/bulb-capscondoms.html

It could be an alignment issue. See the following post I made on this thread several years ago...

I think that reward for completing all of the Elven Gifts is called Super Ring Frenzy Multiball. Maybe someone else can confirm?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-habitrail-mod