TO WARRRRRR!!!

Loving my new LOTR, and proud to join the club!! Destroyed the ring for the first time today!

Pin was in good condition with a bunch of mods when I got it, and seemed to play smooth and fast with super bands, but needed a little cleaning. Now cleaned and two coats of wax, on a perfect fast shot, the ball will not stay on the left Legolas ramp, often flying off the habitrail and sometimes hitting the glass in the area above the shire.

Turned the flipper settings all the way down in the standard audits and it still plays fine at the new settings:
#53 ADJ 1 = 20 ->10
#54 ADJ 2 = 50 ->40
#55 ADJ 3 = 3 ->0

Now 46 games after waxing, it still comes off the ramp occasionally. I had read the speed settles down about 10 games after waxing, but not yet here. Is that normal? How often does everyone see the ball fly off the left ramp? Thanks.

I already have the plastic there, but that looks better. The ball flies off the ramp before it gets there, and lands in the shire. Launched by the top ascending part of the ramp - I guess.

Interesting. Will give that a try.

Will take a look. In any case, I assume the stronger coils work OK for others.

Thanks for all the replies!

Both my Aragorn on Horseback and Dark Rider on Horseback plastic figures lean to side about 45 degrees. The horses legs have warped, letting the figures droop, since they are not perfectly balanced.

I saw online where plastic figures could be immersed in hot water, straightened, and then immersed in cold water to stiffen them again. I tried that, and it worked briefly, but after a few hours they drooped over again under their own weight.

I'm thinking of putting a long screw up through the base of each and in to the horses belly to secure it straight up. Anyone got another idea?

I/O Power Driver Board fuse F24 shown on page 103 of the service manual for more info.

It looks like you have the post and washer mounted on the wrong screw. Check out mine.

IMG_9933_(resized).JPG

IMG_9932_(resized).JPG

OK, post a pic with the ball stuck. Looking at mine, I can't even see how it is possible.

Thats a lot of mods!

Looks like you listed this already:
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_48&products_id=464

I like the bass response of the FF speakers in my LotR.

Others might say the color DMD is a must.

Edit -
Sting shooter rod looks great installed IMHO.
http://cointaker.com/products/lord-of-the-rings-sword-custom-shooter-rod

If you can't find the key to the back box hooked inside the coin door or rolling around inside the back of the cabinet, you can pick the lock. It's a simple one blade key, which is so easy, that even I can do it. Check which way your other pins open and which way the key blade faces.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tips-for-drilling-out-a-lock

Maybe a switch in the trough or shooter lane not working. Check each in the diagnostics - switch test menu.

Look at the VUK from the under the playfield and check items like -
are the wires soldered to the coil securely?
does the plunger move freely?
no parts are broken or loose?

Ouch, that hurts! Sorry to see that, and thanks for the tip.

If there is a bright side.. hopefully the silk screening will be a little better aligned on the new playfield.

Since your already in trouble, get the "Sting" shooter rod as well! It only takes a couple minutes to install and looks fantastic.

Coolest shooter rod ever made IMHO.

http://www.pinballcustoms.com/shop/lord-of-the-rings-sting/

Yup, you have to go through the ring, to hit the micro switch #48 on the ramp inside the back to get credit for destroying the ring. I was never getting credit until I figured out that switch was wearing out and not registering most of the time.

I ordered this from Amazon back in the fall to replace my 3 white ring LEDS that had failed, and they are a bit brighter than original but have worked fine ever since:

"microtivity IL051 5mm Clear White LED (Pack of 25)"

With similar outlane posts settings? I have limited experience with GoT and have only had about 20 plays, but I did not notice any long ball times.

Need pictures!

LED GI is always step one.

Mine came with an LED kit installed and a green LED strip shining up from the trough to brighten up the flipper area, and a pink LED strip under the back box, to lighten up the upper play field. The pink should be red, but it does the job.

The spot lights on my slings have red frosted LEDs, something lighter might be better, and it came with some extra purple spots in the coin box, which I think I will use for the mid play field and to light up the death rider. Always interesting to see how various colors look.

Just started and restarted a bunch of games with Witch King mode and zero success. That is a good one to start before a multiball and hope it works out.

If you don't have the "LotR LE" aka "gold edition", you have to jump through some hoops.

Details here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition

Make sure they are no ghost type. LotR ghosts badly otherwise.

Never. Maybe an issue with the VUK? Everything looks normal in the photo.

I would start a game with the glass off and just keep dropping balls in the saucer, and watch how they end up there.

Can't really tell much from those photos, other than it is in a sketchy basement or garage. Why would they want to keep the autographed translite? Do they have a nicer LotR to move it to? Ask them how much extra for it.

Look it over closely with good lighting and note everything that is not in good condition everywhere on the cab, everywhere on the playfield, in the back box, and inside the cab. Play more than one game to get a feel for any and all operation issues. (gives you a chance to chat with the seller) $4500 is good for a HUO LotR, but things are often not as described.

I noticed at the 1min mark, that Balrog came out for a short 'Bash Balrog' mode. Mine does not do that. I have not messed with the settings very much since I got mine. Will have to see what fun things I can turn on. Any tips?

Some ideas here..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-reset-randomly

They look bad to me. Clearly that part was replaced once. Use a soldering iron to reflow all the joints and find out. (even the lower one on the far left looks odd)

Same here, however the original coils fade as they heat up with long play. What did you go with??

Also flipper can crack badly and not be visible until you look underneath.

Anyone have a spare shire VUK plastic number "-20" shown in the pic?

Let me know if you have an unused one or used unbroken one your willing to part with. Thanks!

SHIRE PLASTIC (resized).jpg

Yup, I might end up doing that too. (or probably the medium coil mentioned on the previous page)

Start a multiball (Fellowship MB makes sense) immediately after starting witch king mode. (this was posted a few pages back, and helps me kill that flying monster.)

I have not researched much LotR strategy, but since you can always start a MB after starting a ring mode, I always do it in that order. (AKA stacking) Hit Elf rings to light "start mode", then start the mode, and usually end up qualifying and starting a MB while working on a ring mode. Once the MB is started, I concentrate on the MB goal, since you have to complete all 3 MB objectives to reach Valinor, and I often happen to complete the ring modes while working on the MB objectives. (You must complete the MB objectives, not the ring mode objectives to reach Valinor.)

Yes, a post that sticks up about 35mm. (looks like I also have a broken wire keeper there, but the wire is not currently routed that way)

gate (resized).JPG

This pinsider is selling some used LOTR plastics here if anyone needs them:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-plastics-1

Welcome! So it begins.

I believe it is needed. PALs are burned like ROMs.

If it came to it, you should be able to burn one yourself or find someone who can.

Yup, 5k+ for a standard with mods sounds right.

Condition is everything. I consider the Pinside prices fair for a good condition, fully working pin. Each flaw and issue subtracts from the value.

Boston Pinball does not show any recent sales of LE on Ebay.

What character says it?

That is Gimli blurting out "mind those ladders" during Two Towers Multiball.

Reminds me of song lyrics I can't figure out and I just sing nonsense.

I think that's normal.

There is no lamp indicating what shot is needed to start fellowship multiball, other than the indicators in the middle.

When you collect each one, there is a unique call out that helps me remember who goes with each shot when I play. Usually Boromir is last, meaning more pops are needed.

If you slide the playfield all the way out on the rails, you can get to switches and flasher in the back. (mostly)

Yup, I swapped my Palantir bulb for a slow color change bendy LED. It was initially too bright so I put some white paper around the LED to diffuse it, with scotch tape.

The view of the paper grain and tape edge with the LED behind, gives a bit of a veiny eye effect. I need to try drawing on the paper to make it a bit cooler.

That skinny red plastic along the shooter lane that blocks that area is broken on your pin.

Is the auto plunger working OK? Maybe, take the glass off and start a Return of the King Multiball to see what occurs when it starts adding balls.

Your just missing the small nut there. (regular nut with nylon insert)

IMG_4396 (resized).JPG

Good catch! Will keep an eye out for a small screw to use there.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5050-00

While the sound quality overall of LotR is not high, mine does not crackle like that.

A previous owner installed Flipper Fidelity speakers on my LotR, but I don't think that affects crackle greatly. It just gives me a lot of bass and probably a little extra range.

It seems like a poor connection would give crackle like that. Check the solder connections at all 3 speakers, and reseat the speaker connector at the board.

Turn off the fast boot in feature adjust #45

I have a red LED flasher there with a bulb condom slid over it to hide it.

I think converting it in to a spot light / flasher aimed at the front of the ring wraith would be 100 times better.

Nice job. 39 seconds is my best time.

http://www.pinball.center/en/search?sSearch=lord+of+the+rings+display+rom

Digging deeper...
https://shop.thepinwitch.com/product_info.php?info=p3196_lord-of-the-rings-le-cpu---eprom-10-02.html

Everything normal in the switch test?

When you drop the balls in to the trough, does that look normal? Try it a couple times.

Is the switch test OK, when you turn it on first thing also?

(love that shinny armor!)

LOTR has the 'Installs Settings' that globally changes ALL the difficulty settings for you. Just select X.HD for extra hard.

Untitled (resized).png

I replaced my flaky Balrog switch and my intermittent mode start at the first game of the day vanished. I never put the two things together. Kudos!!

Welcome! What specific parts/shots feel clunky? Maybe something can be adjusted.

You can purchase complete plastics sets.

Marco sells the plastic support posts for the flasher by the shooter.

There is a thread on the parts and work needed to install a shaker on a standard LotR -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition

And more:
-Upgrade from mono to 2.1 (stereo+sub) high quality power amplifier
-Full cabinet and back-box tone control (treble, bass, loudness…)
-Change from original sound package to HQ reorchestrated sounds on the fly during a game
-Headphone / line-out connector
-Plays any sound from the USB flash drive

So many mods, so little time!

Nice find!

https://www.pinball.co.uk/shop/game-specific-parts/balrog-wire-harness/

I used this. It is the kit from the Stern bulletin with second gen Balrog LED bulb and socket, and was cheaper than the bulb they used to stock. Now I have a spare socket.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5022-00

Unfortunately, dialog taken from your copy of the movie will have loud unwanted backing music and sound effects mixed in, and would sound clunky. I imagine the studio gave Stern the isolated dialog track to use for the callouts, and the custom callouts recorded for the pin would also be needed.

Should work. Ball must be in the shooter lane, and it must be ball 2. Try it one more time.

Maybe the ball save setting was on (called "Freeze Time"), and it was still on ball 1?

Maybe your shooter lane switch is not working??

Both fan layouts put plenty of differences. LorR always impresses me with the layout of the inner/outer orbit shots crossing and interacting with the Barad-dur saucer, the lanes, the Orthanc diverter post, the moving Orthanc guide, and the Orthanc skill shot. (and a jump flying over it!)

I think he means the right ramp. That is where the sword is.

Mine does not hit the side of the cab when I shoot it up the right ramp from the left flipper, it hits the large switch there and heads down the ramp fairly quietly. If I backhand that shot, I then get a satisfying clunk. It might be that the ramp is tapered, putting spin on one side or the other side of the ball.

OK, now I'm curious!

It's common that when two balls get stuck there, the magnet fuse can blow.

The balls may be magnetized and sticking together.

I use the 5 for $5 balls from marco, and have never magnetized one yet.

Software version.

Standard adjustments 45 - set quick boot 'off', and you can see the software version displayed on the DMD when you start up the pin.

After the 4 shots, it should be 2 shots to the ring to destroy it.

You mentioned you changed the magnet fuse. Is the magnet working? When you start the game, the mode start light is lit, so when you the ring, the magnet should grab it while the mode start animation plays.

I think that is a symptom of the Balrog switch failing/noisy. Others have reported that, and replacing the Balrog switch fixed that issue for me.

Before fixing it, I was not registering some Balrog hits, and when testing the switch I could see it was blipping on/off/on/off... when I tested it in switch mode.

Used 2 ball for a while but often the magnet would grab both and I got frustrated with it, so went back to 1 ball DTR.

Mine doesn't. Coils normally buzz when their not super tight. Maybe the bracket is loose or you need to add a shim. (not sure how that coil is mounted)

Wow, I had seen issues with color registration, where the small yellow letters with orange trim where obviously misaligned like where it says "light all rings for ring frenzy" at the bottom, but red nosed Gandalf sticking out his tongue is too much.

Here are a couple pics of mine FYI. PF looks normal, and appears to be stamped 07 04 (Aug/2004 I assume). It's a LotR standard and has Gandalf w/horse figure.

IMG_5092 (resized).JPG

No green hue -
IMG_5096 (resized).JPG

"LIGHT ALL RINGS" has good yellow/orange registration.
IMG_5093 (resized).JPG

Sounds like yours is standard. The LE version from 2009 does not have any figures.

It was posted above - 'In 2005 mid production they ran out of Gandoff figures and he changed to Gandoff the grey with no horse.'

OK, the coil tried. Coils are a little weird in test mode. Sounds like it may be OK.

How about the switches in test mode?

The main downside to NVRAM is the clock would not keep correct time/date. That would not be cool in a pin with midnight madness or a physical clock like TZ.

In LotR, the time/date is used for configuring the starting and ending of TOPS tournaments, so that would be one possible issue, but not for most of us.

Yes, any inexpensive ball will be the type that is OK with magnets.

The colors look good to me. If your missing any disassembly photos or need anything checked here, don't hesitate to ask.

The 8 lamps along the shooter lane work with the insert lamps and not the GI, so the LED OCD would smooth them.

Plenty of threads about that. These inexpensive carbon steel balls work fine in my LotR, TZ, and Met pro:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

Co-op on LotR would be killer!

Turn on all the extra ball awards:
special audit 3: replay award = EB
special audit 6: special award = EB
special audit 9: EB limit = unlimited

Love those. send file plz!

Yup, a worn out, dirty, non functioning, hacked, faded, incomplete, abused pin could still be called HUO by defenition.

You can see the paint has rubbed off the right plastic. The slings are hitting there. Put a washer or two under the plastic so the sling is not hitting it. That is probably why it is sticking.

Yup, it is a tight fit under there. One of my old plastics had the paint scratched off too. Adding some thin washers works, so nothing touches.

Looks the same as my lotr. Half the pins in my lineup are like your lotr and half are like your AFM. Just the way the sling plastics were done on different pins it seems.

Have you checked it in the switch test mode? See if it ever stays 'on' there.

Wow, that is a big Oak tree. Hope you can get things back together quickly.

The switch or the wires running to it are probably failing. I have not opened it in a while. Start with it in the open position away from the ramp. Take of the 2 screws that hold on the small back cover. The manual has a good exploded view at the bottom of page 87.

Yes, that diverter post is up during War of the Ents, but the ball may be going past it because the shot is not strong enough to roll along the top of the orbit or maybe ball guide on the right is aimed under the post. Do left orbit shots hit the diverter and roll in to the tower? You can stand on the right of the pin and see when the diverter post is up. It is normal that a few balls get past it.

Inexpensive LEDs.

https://cointaker.com/t/mini

All 3 of the horse riding figures are molded with a base that is held down with 2 small tie wraps. You can see Gandalfs base when you look from the right side.

Yup. Standard Adjustment 38 if you want to turn it on.

Here are some other I used and wrote down in my notes to find quickly later if needed:

SA 4 replay levels = (tiers of replays or EBs)
SA 6 Sepecial Award =
SA 9 EB Limit =
SA 15 Tilt Warnings = 3
SA 29 High Score = 10 letters
SA 30 Free Play = Yes
SA 42 Coindoor Ball save = Yes
SA 49 Tech Alert = coin door and startup
SA 3 replay award = EB ==> replay
FA 33 Cave Troll = ON
FA 34 = consolation balrog = none
FA 36 = Extend attract = Yes

Yes.

Attract mode is what the pin does when your not playing. (not sure what specifically this setting does)

You can tighten up the screws of the leaf switch stack. They also make splints to keep them upright:
https://mezelmods.com/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721

Have not noticed.

Have all my DMD pins at 6.5 degrees on the playfield.

I use my phone. I rotate the phone 180deg and confirm the number is the same both ways, which verifies the phone is properly zeroed. I take the reading at the center of the playfield. Same when checking the left/right is level.

Are the balls magnetized and sticking together? Is the playfield angle 6.5deg? Are the wires secure on the plunger coil?

That should be easy to test with the glass off.

In the past I had some intermittent issues with lane 2 not always registering, but I have not seen that in a long time. I don't recall if I did anything to make it go away.

Oops I missed your post. Just tested with the glass off.... and yes, when the VUK fires the lanes are disabled for just a split second. Great memory @LOTR_breath!

Funny thing is, the rest of the time those switches always register, even without the VUK firing first. You can keep pressing them and it just keeps saying "100 more, 100 more, 100 more" until you reach 5000 souls.

I can't comment on before/after since mine came with the FF kit w/ 8" woofer installed, but I can say that it does sound good.

I enjoy being able to crank up the sound and bring out the subsonic tones that have me looking over my shoulder when I'm playing alone on those late nights. The included tone control with the FF kits is a nice feature as well.

Yes, mine has one.

WOW, the bottom of the bulb base pulled out and is stuck to the spring inside the bulb holder. Is that what it looks like to you?

See if that will pull out without wrecking the bulb holder, and get a new balrog LED flasher.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-ordered-lotr-plastic-setwhy-no-arwen-pic

Time to 'ahem' replace the batteries. I had a heavy hitter visit and put a big GC score on my FT. Took me over a year to get the GC back.

I gave up on 2 ball DTR a long time ago. Turn that off and enjoy your pin.

Yup, that's what I have.

All of those items listed are mods. LotR-LE(2009) came stock with a shaker, but those have gold armor and a special translite with gold outlines, so you don't have an LE.