My first pin! I'm in the club. THX Bumgahdna for meeting me half way.-Great Irish Pub. Wait...I'm a poet.
My wife says it can stay in the living room for a little while.
(Topic ID: 112137)
Linked Games
Lord of the Rings
Stern, 2003-
Lord of the Rings Limited Edition
Stern, 2009
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Just got the game. One shot away from destroying the ring. Quick question about the call outs. In all the times I have played it, which quick frankly I'm getting nothing done around the house, I have not heard Frodo say, "I will take the ring to Mordor although I do not know the way" I assume he says this when you acquire him for fotr. Is this a pinsound mod.
Quoted from chubtoad13:What version are you running?
You are correct, that call out happens when you collect him for FOTR.
I looked in the service menu but say nothing to indicate what version I am running. When you restart the game it does not indicate version either. How do you check for version.
Quoted from Adaminski:If you have PinSound installed, yes.
At least one of the most popular sets of sound files for LOTR on PinSound does not use "I will take the ring to Mordor although I do not know the way". It uses (paraphrasing) "....is it left or right, Gandalf?"
What do you mean "left or right Gandalf." Like I said I am brand new.
Just saw a Serv Bulletin 157. I wonder if this was ever done on my machine. There are times when the game will make a rather rude sound when the ramp is activated. hmm..
Quoted from Neal_W:There is a setting for "quick boot" or normal. When your LotR is set to quick boot, you will not see the version at boot up.
In what menu is this. I ran through them all and did not see any setting for long or quick boot.
Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:I think it's standard adjustments/fast boot (item 45)
Your good I had no idea there was so much in standard adjustments. So this is what it says. What does it mean.
20191024_073641 (resized).jpgIm assuming im running ver 5.01. Do i have to update every code since then or can i skip and go right to 10
Quoted from red-line:Just install the latest code.
Thx. So i down loaded code. Unzipped, and there are about 10 files and a read me. Should i delete read me file before sticking the usb in the pin.
I guess I would have figured that out when I went to find the usb connection. Thx for that heads up. I just bought both the eproms. So all I have to do is take out the old ones out, put in new ones and reboot.
Quoted from AUKraut:Yep, that's it! Just be sure to do it with the Power off and that you orient the ROMs in the right direction. I'd recommend using a chip puller, but careful usage of a small flatblade screwdriver also works.
K. I'll spring for a chip puller. Thx for all the help on this guys. Can't wait to get her up to date.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:This is the one you want. Don't get one of those things that has the arms to grab the chip. Gently slide this under each end of the chip and twist/rock it to lift the chip out without bending the pins.
amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
Ok I'll try it.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:That's a nice tool.
I would also recommend removing the boards and installing the chips with your boards on your workbench; installing these with the board still in the machine is not a good idea.
I'm in middle of a house renovation. I haven't seen the top of my work bench in months. 
very good. thx. time to learn how to solder. I wasn't sure if it got attached because there was no solder on the wires. they must have just wrapped the wires around the connection.
Quoted from FatPanda:The ball is flying out quite early in the ramp, next to the PotD as it's going uphill. I also have the plastic airball deflector mounted right there, with the inscription cut into it.
I cant believe the speed the ball generates when it hits legolas cleanly. It flies off the rail here and usually enda up in the sam shot. It hits Sam like a missle.
20191028_192132 (resized).jpgQuoted from ryan1234:Try slightly bending the top rail/wire of the habitatrail up. The wire on the outside of the curve- the left side. It needs to be slightly above the center line of the pinball. It gets bent down sometimes.
Ok tried it. It was a little low. We'll see if it fixes. Thx for advice
Quoted from MrSmiley:LotR runs the Stern Whitestar boardset which does not yet offer upgrades via USB. So in order to update code you need to physically swap the Game as well as Display ROM (behind the DMD) with a ROM that has the latest code on it. You can either buy or burn the ROM yourself.
Marco or any other pinball shop will do. Be aware you need both Game and Display ROM, latest version is 10.0 or 10.02 Game ROM if you want to run a shaker motor. If you are going for 10.02 you need an additional PAL chip.
Game Rom 10.0: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1871
Display 10.0: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1873
So i replaced the eproms and tunred it on. The lights all light. I have no display and the flasher lights just blink off and on. What do u all suggest. I have a color dmd. All the chips are orientated correctly and all their legs are seated.
I replaced the code eprom and the display rom. Batteties as well. I reset game too. I double checked the orientation they are good.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Any Chance one of the legs is bent underneath the IC instead of being in the socket?
Double checked. Even took them back out and reseated. Do i have to push the reset button as i turn it back on or something.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:I assume that you are using the notch for orientation? Have you tried to put the originals back in to see if it will boot up?
Put the old ones back in and it does the exact same thing. Lights on and the g.i relay does not close but just clicks. I tried pushing the reset button but it does not reset.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Crisis averted
Thx for the applause. I just assumed the chip marked 10.0 was the code. And the other marked 10 was the video. Oh but no!!!! Man i thought i had turned it into $6000 brick.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Now's a good time as any since everything has already been reset to default ... The game RAM is socketed and you can find NVRAM cheaper than good batteries at this point; there is literally no reason not to do this.
Thx for suggestion. Just bought the nvram. No more battery worries.
Flipper question. Watched some videos today about getting good. All about flipper technique. He was showing light taps make the flippers move just a little. My lotr is all or nothing. There is no light tapping, there nothing until it engages then its a full slap.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:This is not going to help you get better at all games, but for this game, the Legolas and Aragorn ramps are so easy to make, I just ramp pass these; if you get good at performing ramp combos with these two shots you will score very well on this machine.
Thats funny. My son saw me trying to do post passes and he told me to use the orbits as well. Just not ready to take pinball advice from my kid. So I came here. Ouch
1 week later
Any ideas about a flasher that stays on all the time. Its the bottom right flasher above the picture of the she elf. #14 i believe. I just took the bulb out because it was beginning to damage the yellow topper thing.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:That would likely be a shorted transistor. Check page 6 & 7 of the manual for the coils table and location to find which transistor to test. There are many guides out there for how to test it and replace it if needed.
That makes sense because it turns off with the opening of the coin door. Do u think it will hurt anything if i keep playing it until i get time to track it down.
Quoted from DCFAN:Take the bulb out until you fix the problem to avoid melting plastics from the heat. It should be ok to play without the bulb.
Ok so this is what the guide said. Flash Helms Deep Right. Q14. Can anyone tell me where to find the High Current Coils group 2. Is it one coil im looking for. Im really kind of clueless in trying to read this chart.
20191116_225515 (resized).jpg 3 months later
My lights in the lanes are not working. changed bulbs everything looks connected beneath. i don't even know if these are triggered or just stay on. bulb schematics don't mention them or i can't find them. i didn't even notice them until i did some work on the pops.
20200216_152903 (resized).jpg20200216_153922 (resized).jpgQuoted from Neal_W:I see .... LotR is your only pin.
Man u know how to hurt a guy. I'm working on the wife. So i just got to trace the wire back to the head box.
Quoted from judremy:Those are just simple GI. Look around for other GI in the area that is out and I am sure you will find a loose wire.
So all the GI14 are out. White/lavender. I checked wiring all the way to the back box. Pin GI14 on the GI connector is only putting out 1.5v. I checked the common for that wire (lavneder) and it conducts 6 volts when checked against white/green pin13. nothing looks burnt. where do i go from here. and can i just splice white/lavender onto white/green. its all LED lighting.
that's what i did. Do the side that activates the switch first, make sure when u put it on that it in fact activates the switch. Then gently flex the other side into the hole.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:More
Have you checked fuse F27
the fuse was fine, but the fuse holder was not making contact. thx.
1582926451814822767447440753852 (resized).jpgQuoted from Rascal-911:It appears like it will be an epic journey.
Welcome. I'm constantly amazed by the depth of this games rule set. If u haven't already down load the rules. But even with the rules there are so many different strategies to understand. Or u can do what most of my friends do,- just keep the ball in play.
2 months later
Quoted from DeathHimself:Holy Shit... Pinsound in LOTR is killer!!! Love the dam near movie theater sound experience now lol.
i was this close to pulling the trigger on pinsound last week. Did u get shaker motor too. I couldnt determine if i needed to up grade to 10.03 to use the shaker motor or if it would work with 10.00. Did u get ear phone jack as well. Convince me. twist my arm. was it easy to put in.
Quoted from DeathHimself:If you buy their pinsound plus board and their shaker motor kit with the motion board, you don't need to update anything past V10.00. So basically the 10.02 cpu and the pal chip is not needed.
Thx for response. I wanted some confirmation on the shaker motor before i bought. I'll sneak this past the wife Asap. Because of covid I have my sons back from college taking classes on line in the man cave and my pinball time is limited by their need for silence, i think with headphones i could back in business. cheers.
Quoted from DeathHimself:BTW where did you grab that plexi deflector base from, I’d like to purchase one myself. Looks great just wish their heads were facing inward rather then outward.
The deflector i made from a piece of plexiglas. Cut it out using a dremel and attached it underneath the path of the dead by the screw that is in the middle of the potd. Used a little two sided sticky tape too.
Yeah I though about cutting their heads off and turning them and then repainting, but their bodies position would have made it awkward. I still may. I think i still have the pattern i used. pm your address and i'll cut another and send it this weekend.
Quoted from pinballjj:I like it! I think if you are a huge fan of the movie throw gimli on with Legolas as it mimics the scene in the movie , otherwise I like the concept for figures in pinball machines being near their "shot" so I would put gimli over by his vuk hole.
Have you tried turning the figure the other way so Legolas faces the playfield?
i did try i would have to cut off the head. its molded in that position and his hair runs down his back. so i would have to cut it, turn it and then figure a way to make the hair line up again.
love the movies, but it is the legolas shot. im really torn on that. gimili is in a weird sitting position not sure how he would look over his shot, but good suggestion i'll try it and see.
Quoted from pinballjj:having a hard time visualizing why you would need to cut of the head and rotate it vs just rotating the whole horse 180 but some times the fixed pose figures do look weird in certain orientations .[quoted image]
Cause i wanted their travel in the direction of the balls. Plus i didnt want the horses rear end facing out.
Am i right in thinking that the game was originally released with the path of dead having two pathways out. One over top of arewin and into the shire and the other down the legolas ramp?
Quoted from DeathHimself:Not sure if it was purposely intended to be two exits but what you get for the shire bounce is a extra 250 souls, not worth the loss of an Arwen plastic IMHO.
What!! an extra 250 souls is huge. I need to come up with a deflector for that. I want my souls!! Your legolas protect/deflector is finished and going today or tomorrow btw.
1 week later
i want to run this by you all. Gimili switch is not registering on the switch test. i checked the connections and discover there was no diode on the switch. I looked around just below the switch and found a broken off diode. I grabbed a fresh diode and soldered onto the switch and rechecked. Still the switch did not register. So i started to remove the switch to put a new one in. Holy crap!!! Has anyone replaced this switch. Im thinking i am going to have to take off the entire Upkick bracket to get the switch out of there. what a pain in the rear. Anyone??? Am i right or is there a trick to this.
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:I had the same problem. Took the five screws out and found that it was the lever of the microswitch that had come loose and it would not depress the switch correctly. I tighten the little screws that hold the micro switch to the assembly and that centeredit.
Hmm...didnt even think about that. I checked electrical connections. and when that didnt produce results just replaced the whole thing. Didnt know it could be a mechanical thing. Like in the 70s when you could smack the television to get a channel to come in better.
Give a man a fish. Im a little embarrassed I never new how that column thing worked. I just always brut forced it. You're the man Pin Guy.
So I fixed the Legolas fly aways with the typical piece of plexiglass over the rail. But I noticed that the shire backglass had a crack. So I ran a piece of plexiglass inside the VUK. The plexi is thin enough that it does not interfere with the upkick. The shire still takes an occasional stray air ball from the palantir so we will see if this solves my problem. You can see the extra plexi from the front of the shire but you have to be looking for it. The picture is zoomed and at the worst angle.
from front (resized).jpgplexiglass (resized).jpgshire inside (resized).jpgQuoted from Gogdog:The other pin says to use Velcro but I would assume Velcro is too thick and pushes the plastic near the VUK.
Edit: My current idea...is that since the bottom rivet plastic is already broken, I go ahead and remove the rivet and then use a nut/bolt to resecure the broken plastic and also secure the plexi/lexan protector....
I used a tiny bit of clear silicon at the bottom of metal vuk. (There is actually a slight ledge that I nestled the plexi into.) And a dab of UV activated glue at the very top. Not enough to give me any trouble if I want to remove, but just enough to keep it in place. I've played about 5 games so far and it has done a great job of protecting the shire from further harm. I was tempted to do the nut and bolt as well but my shire has a good crack and I did not want to to take any chance of the piece breaking altogether and then falling out. Plus the nut on the back bolt might interfere with the upkick.
Quoted from drummermike:I took out the two screws and put in metal posts with SB post rubber to hold the plastic from moving forward from a ball hit.
See post 3469 for a picture.
I wish I would have thought of doing that before my plastic was cracked.
Quoted from Gogdog:I used a jigsaw to cut the lexan, though I should have bought a new fine tooth blade. And I'm not the best with a jigsaw either.
This was the final shape that I decided on.
[quoted image]
Since my plastic was already cracked, I went ahead and removed the rivet from the bottom with a Dremel. (is there anything a Dremel can't do?)...oh wait..actually...maybe I should have used a Dremel instead of a jigsaw.
[quoted image]
I tried the dremel, and a jigsaw and an angle grinder. The angle grinder with a grinder attachment is the way to go.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Router is the way to go. Nothing cleaner than a sharp bit and 10K RMP's. I used this method when I created my own POTD mod and it cuts like butter.
oh wow. yeah. absolutely. More Power!!! did u have a shaper or did u really free hand a router on such a small piece. If i had a small router i guess i would have been tempted. Did it gum up your bit.
Maricopa!! I lived in Phoenix for 7 years. My attempt at using a jig saw was funny. I put the jigsaw at a high setting and went threw the plexi like butter. But it generated enough heat to cut the plexi and then melt it back together. When i was finished it was like i had never even started. 
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:I built myself the Norm Abrams router station and love it. That and my installed Milwaukee router tackle everything I throw at it. I can see using a high tooth count Forrest WW saw blade on my table saw if I needed to cut some big sheets down to size for sure.
Quoted from DeathHimself:and they say dwarfs have no sense of humor.
I thought that scene was one of the best. why it was edited out of the orginal movie i couldn't understand.
Quoted from DeathHimself:I'm glad they left it in the directors cut, then again for any fan that should be the only versions to watch. So here I sit skimming thru the trilogy for additional sounds to import into pinsound
Hopefully yours arrived already
I have not even ordered it yet. I'm busier than one armed paper hanger and dont want the temptation of pinsound until i get some stuff off my plate. But soon.
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