What's required for TABA? I was able to find the requirements for valinor but not for TABA
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Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I am in the same boat. I have a LOTR with a dead sound chip. During my research, I found out that Rob from lockwhenlit.com does repair these boards. I would contact him for pricing and repair times. I also discovered that if you install a Pinsound board, it completely replaces the old sound circuits. I am currently saving my pennies for a Pinsound board.
So it's confirmed that installing pinsound board fixes sound issues, including corrupted sound ROMs? So no need to troubleshoot what the rootcause is, just install the board and get better sound quality on the side?
I installed the pinsound board on my LOTR and downloaded Wool's mix, I have to say the sound quality is much much better and Wool's mix has a lot of potential (and it's an improvement as is over original sounds). Money well spent, and the installation was not that hard either (although I had other issues after the installation, but not related to the board)
Pinsound gets two thumbs up from me!
Quoted from adamross:The file name of the wool mix that i downloaded is LOTR_Woolmix_ v1.rar
Perhaps was using the wrong link?
If my memory serves me correctly, I uncompressed the .rar file and just had the files and folders on the memory stick. Pinsound web page had info on the right file structure also
The basic rules, like how to start the multi balls and destroy the ring are easy to get but the path to Valinor is long and not easy to achieve. More on rules can be found eg http://pinball.org/rules/lordoftherings.txt
Quoted from Damien:Having an issue where during DTR the magnet in the ring doesn't seem to catch like it does the rest of the game. Seems to take a lot more attempts than it does trying to start a mode for instance.
Is this normal?
Have you checked the spinner switch? When the spinner is spinning the switch causes the magnet to turn on. When the spinner stops spinning, if a ball is not in the ring the magnet should turn off.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Sounds very possible that it doesn't have the correct number of balls in it.
Yes. When you've turned it on, go to diagnostics menu and check which switches are on and pay attention to ball trough switches (switches 11-14)
Quoted from Turboghia:I just joined the LOTR club, purchasing a nonworking one! All insert lights blink, non working DMD, and it doesn’t boot.
Any thoughts????
Which LEDs are lit on the board in the backbox? Can you take a pic?
Quoted from PapaKilo:If I remember you can change the way the mode plays so instead of needing to knock the first ball out of the ring you have to make multiple shots? It's something like that. It may explain it in the manual but I'm sure its online as well.
As to adjusting the magnet. I have no clue.
If I remember right, changing DTR to one ball is feature adjustment 35
Quoted from hawknole:Hi all, FYI, I am very close to releasing my PinSound+ mix for LOTR. Some final tweaks, working with the PinSound guys & getting their feedback. Not a great video but here is a sneak peek...
Very nice, I’ll definitely give it a try
Quoted from PinballTilt:Has anyone had reset issues with a whitestar game? Mine has reset twice now after about an hour of playing. Measuring 4.9 volts at the board. Is this to low? this issue isn't happening consistently
Quite often this is related to 5V dropping below watchdog threshold. If the 5V is good on the I/O driver board, check the connector from CN2 on the CPU / sound board to J16 on the I/O power driver board, especially J16 seems to get crispy over time resulting in voltage drops and resets. Reseating J16 and CN2 might help solve the problem temporarily
For more info, see pinwiki
Quoted from PinballTilt:I pulled and reseated both of those connectors and I'm going to see if that fixes it. If not, I was made aware the 5v can be adjusted which I'll try next.
All my mods are on an external power supply. No recent changes, but it's been a while since I played it this much.
If you measure 4.9V on the I/O power driver board, it should be enough. Yes, you can adjust the voltage with the potentiometer on the board but be careful in not raising the voltage too high. Btw, I had the same issue and planned on adjusting the voltage but couldn't find out which way to turn it to raise the voltage and was afraid I'd fry some components and ended up not doing it - reseating J16 temporarily solved the resets for me but at some point I'll have to re-build the connector
Quoted from Daditude:What fuses control the sound on LOTR?
I dont have a manual and ai could use some help. My sound went out.
If it’s just the sound and game otherwise is ok then it’s probably not a fuse, you should start by checking if LEDs 201-204 are lit on I/O power driver board indicating it’s getting all the voltages
Quoted from Daditude:I got the machine from a seller that tons of mods. He had the flipper button light up mods, but they were disconnected. I connected them and that did it.
I will have to explore it further. They should be able to connect with no problems.
I'm surprised that it worked at all with 12V out, was LED203 out to point towards those two fuses?
Quoted from Daditude:My LOTR has all lights blinking on-off-on...
It won't start or play. All lights are on, however.
Any suggestions?
Could it be in reset loop, does it make a 'clicking' sound when the lights blink? First thing I'd do is to check LED204 on the I/O board when the lights blink, if it turns off then it means that the 5V DC is below the reset limit. If it's flashing then there's a comms issue between CPU/Sound board and I/O board (perhaps the ribbon cable)
Quoted from Daditude:I checked these and it worked...for a few games...then blinking lights again. Luckily, i received my manual in the mail today. I will sit down with it and look into it further. It feels like maybe it is just a loose connection or something simple, though.
So did it reset then? If so, I'm afraid the manual will not be of much help (other than finding out which where test points are, which LED is which etc).
If it was resets related to 5V, then I bet it's the connections between CN2 on the CPU / sound board and J16 on the I/O power driver board - often times these cause voltage drops between the two board. Re-seating them, and I'd start wtih J16, will likely help (did work for me) but in some cases you have to replace the connectors to fix that.
Pinwiki has more information on this, see section 4.3 at http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sega/Stern_White_Star_Repair. Measure the 5V on CPU board and see if it drops relative to what it is on I/O power driver board. I'd not start with pot adjustment, re-seat the connectors first.
Quoted from Daditude:I barely had any time before having to turn in, but i re-seated and turned it on and the volume was WAY UP! It did that twice. Im not sure why the volume went up like that.
Not sure either, never heard of an issue like that. To be able to help you further I think we need your help in eliminating issues. Eg did it reset, and if so did it appear to be 5V related? Have you checked any possibility of battery damage? Etc.
Btw, I hope you didn’t reseat the connectors with power on...
Quoted from billsfanmd:Helping a friend who has a Balrog that has stopped registering hits. I found a few old posts....Best to remove balrog and look for broken wires behind it? How hard to remove it?
Thx.
See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/balrog-removal#post-2477735
Quoted from Daditude:My wife was playing my LOTR while I was at work and the sound went out. She says it went from full sound to absolutely nothing. No pop, and no raising or lowering of sound.
I checked the fuses, and they are good. All wires seem to be intact. I have reseated the cn2 and sound chips.
What am I missing? Where do I go next?
See this thread for lots of good info, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-sound-now-gone. Hopefully reseating U7 fixes it
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Last issue left: ball througb
Sometimes the ball are going all the way down, so the kicker opto does not see them and it goes for a ball search. Any idea on how to solve this?
Are the balls magnetized and get stuck in the trough? This is a pretty typical issue in LOTR's
Quoted from winteriscoming:I splurged and bought a NOS LOTR pf to replace my badly faded one.
Once this gets installed, by cabinet is going to look quite bad by comparison. Has anyone had good results with cabinet decals?
Have you checked out post #4740 of this thread? I got these, they look great but haven’t been installed so can’t really say much yet other than that they look great
Quoted from cerberusdog:I am apparently an imbecile. My LoR periodically puts out an alert on the DMD that says "Attn.Operator #4 VUK" error. I cannot find a #4 VUK anywhere in the manual or the forum. I'd love to know which it is. The game still works. I believe it is the top right saucer but have gotten the message with ball in upper left tower vuk. I just want one on hand if it goes. If you know which part in the assembly is bad that's awesome or where to get a new assembly if I need a whole one. The model numbers for all vuks on LoR are out of stock online.
Also: What is the part number for the leaf switch inside the balrog? It has been adjusted and worked properly for about ten games and now again doesn't register hits very often. I already know from the previous adjustment that its always in contact and not a matter of being gapped too far to register hits. I just want to replace the switch. I have the proper switch tool but like i found on my iron maiden newton ball that just replacing a jacked up switch is sometimes easier.
As you can see I am not well versed in electronics nor manual reading.
Thanks for any help
That error is typically reported if a switch is stuck closed, so go to switch test menu and see which ones are closed that shouldn’t be. Note that some are always closed, and some maybe closed for a reason (eg ball trough switch if there’s a ball in it. If you look at the switch matrix diagram in the manual, you’ll notice a series of numbers under each switch - that’s the part number (eg switch 28, Balrog hit is 180-5119-00)
Quoted from pinballpaully:The
I sent the boards to stern and just got them back. I’m at a loss and it’s now above my skill level. Will probably just need someone to come and repair.
Don't give up so easily, could be an easy fix. First, check that it has 4 balls in the trough then go into switch test and make sure that the switches trigger. If you are not sure what switches to check, take a look at page 4 in the manual (if you don't have a manual, you can download it from https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4858). I'd also take the balls out (assuming they are there and drop them one by one in the trough to see that the switches trigger correctly. If not, first thing to do is to reseat the connectors. While in the switch test menu, check out switch 46 (tower switch) to see if it's stuck closed (i.e. thinking there's a ball)
Quoted from taylor34:Here's a video I made showing ring switch stuff like a month ago. As you can see, switches working fine.
At that point, I actually didn't know Destroy the ring wasn't working until my son actually did it and it didn't work multiple times.
Does the magnet work? Are you set to 2 ball DTR? Maybe the magnet is not working and if you have 2DTR on the system is expecting the ball to get stuck in magnet before you can destroy the ring? Long shot, but you never know...
Edit, if the magnet is not working check the fuse first. I believe it’s fuse is F20, a 4A 250v Slow Blow. Manual has more information on how the magnet works, there’s also a test for the ring magnet
Quoted from MSLONEKER:In what menu is this. I ran through them all and did not see any setting for long or quick boot.
I think it's standard adjustments/fast boot (item 45)
Quoted from MSLONEKER:my eyes are what they used to be. Any suggestions for a soldering gun
If you search the forum, you'll find several threads on this. I'd say the general opinion is that you can't go wrong with Hakko (see e.g. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-soldering-tool-for-pinballs).
You also need good solder, like Kester 44 rosin core solder 66/44
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