I'll be joining the Fellowship in a few weeks and have been looking for mods to get. The Palantir Eye mod looks really cool but I'm not sure if Jay is going to be making them again. Anyone have a spare to sell or know if these will be made again?
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I'll be joining the Fellowship in a few weeks and have been looking for mods to get. The Palantir Eye mod looks really cool but I'm not sure if Jay is going to be making them again. Anyone have a spare to sell or know if these will be made again?
I'm considering doing the coil upgrade and your experience is making me a bit wary. Hopefully you can get it fixed soon.
Quoted from sillyoldelf:On the subject of mods, the eye mod from Jay is a must for me.
I'll be sending you some decals very soon Jay - sorry it took so long to get them done
Took forever but they required a lot of detail and design to match in with the playfield. Can't wait to get them on and finish my machine. I'll post some pics up when the final ones come back from printers but here's some low rez pics - they look incredible printed on vinyl.
Wow those look fantastic! You going to sell them too or just a one off? Also it looks like they might work great in Hobbit.
I was playing today and cradling with the left flipper and got into a conversation with someone. After cradling for maybe a minute or two the flipper went dead.
Looks like fuse is blown and to the touch the coils felt extremely hot. I'm assuming that maybe the EOS switch wasn't engaging? First time I've had a blown coil on any machine so this will be a fun learning experience! I'm planning on switching the coil to a medium strength one anyways but definitely need to figure out the cause of the issue first.
This is on an LE too, which I guess has some minor differences in the coils (no diodes I think?)
Thanks for any tips.
Quoted from DCFAN:Most likely your flipper transistor shorted and the fuse blew. It happens with the original transistors in Sterns of that era.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-lotr-le-flipper-fuse-transistor-failed
And this is why Pinside is great! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction
About a month ago my LOTR LE left flipper went dead while cradling. Researching this issue led me to find a common problem with the Q15 and Q16 flipper transistors. Instead of sending it off I've been learning how to do the repair myself - all part of the fun!
Unfortunately I've been really busy and the learning process has been a slow one. Since I don't feel confident enough to do the repair myself yet I decided to get a RottenDog to use for now and have as a backup.
The board arrived and it is a much different looking board than the one in my machine. The LOTR LE power driver board is nearly half the size of the RD board and the metal mounting plate on the back doesn't look like it would line up with the rotten dog board correctly.
Questions: Did I buy the wrong board? It literally says Lord of the Rings on the RD board itself but maybe the LE version is different?
If it's the correct board do I need to change the mounting plate somehow? I'll have to pull the old board out to be sure but it didn't look like the RD board would mount properly.
Thanks for any help or advice!
Here are some pics:
Quoted from paynemic:Three new board looks like mine. The one in the first pic I don't recognized
Is yours a regular or an LE?
This is footage of a LOTR at PAPA. They talk about all the things that make it harder. Take note that with the removed outlane posts they actually reduce the tilt sensitivity to allow the possibility of some nudge saves.
A few weeks ago I replaced Q15 and Q16 transistors on my LOTR LE driver board (it's different than the standard edition).
Game played fine, no problems. Turn it on today and it starts a game then freezes up. I open up the head and whoa tons of lights are off!
No 5V, 20V, or 50V
F5,F7,F8,F10,F11 all blown
What da funk happened?! BR blow up maybe? Where should I start looking for trouble?
Regarding my problem above, I just noticed I never fully screwed the board back in. It was just hanging on the screws. I'm guessing that might be part of the problem and could have cause a short or missed ground connection or something... Yay for fuck ups
Replaced all the blown switches and F11 the 5V Logic Power still blows about 10 seconds after powering on. Sure hope I didn't somehow fry the CPU.
Quoted from Maken:Any club members know where I can buy a center ramp? Seems to be sold out at the usual stores.
Try seeing if one of the plating/powder coating guys (like pinballplatingandmore.com) has one. It'd be super shiny too!
Regarding the coils, are the LE coils different than the standards? They feel pretty strong to me but it does get really hard to hit the ring.
Quoted from HughesDForce:Do any of you have tips for aiming/aligning the Ring ramp? Most of the Ring shots on my game bounce out, and multiple attempts at adjusting the ramp haven't improved things.
When it comes to making the ramp shot you might need to tweak the spinner. When the spinner is at rest if it's not at the right angle the ball will be significantly slowed down. On mine I just added a super tiny amount of lube at the spinner joints to make it spin like hell. Balls fly up the ramp with ease now.
That's not the only possible culprit though. Your flippers might need adjusting if they are old or are dragging.
The ramp itself shouldn't need to be tweaked unless the flap is bent and causing balls to brick and slow down. It's possible the tip of the ramp is getting deformed but that's probably not the main cause of missed ramp shots.
I don't know about the Balrog mech, haven't had any experience tweaking with it yet.
If you're overshooting the ring then I'd suggest the easiest fix is just to raise your play field angle. The extra energy in the shots would get used up climbing the steeper slope.
Quoted from PinsOnly:Make sure the Ring Magnet is working, very common to have the fuse blown for that magnet.
Concur! I forgot that this is exactly what happened to me once. Thought for sure the ramp was screwed up, spent a ton of time tweaking things... Blown magnet fuse fixes it all!
Re: PinSound Wool Mix
I thought I remember reading months ago that he was grabbing all the center channel DVD audio to use for better call outs. But now I keep seeing people say the call outs are the same original low quality.
So did the movie call outs not get used? Or is it just the game specific ones like “jackpot”?
I’m still on the fence if it’s gonna be worth the extra hassle and cost for LOTR. I do love PinSound though!
Quoted from DaveH:And then the questions. I’m getting a lot of cutting out trying to use the Wool mix. Little glitches in the sound that are really annoying. Like a sound will be playing and have a quick gap in the sound. Have people run into that?
Also I’m getting no background sound at the start off ball 2 and 3. Which seems really odd. So it’s completely quiet, then I’ll hit something and get that sound effect. Eventually I start getting a background track. Normal?
And finally, the call outs in Two Towers were pretty quiet compared to the music.
I’m just trying to see if it’s the mix, the board, or a bad download or something else.
I've run into this a few times with PinSound. The fix each time was to get a better USB stick. I'm not sure why it seems to be the answer but I have almost no glitches anymore. Maybe once every dozen or so games there's a tiny glitch but I barely notice now.
For what it's worth the bigger 32 and 64 sized sticks seemed to have more problem. I'm using 8GB USB 3.0 sticks in all my PinSounds.
So I noticed last night my cabinet speaker wasn’t making any sound. After some testing it seems like the output from the CPU/Audio board is broken. It’s just a steady buzzing sound.
Common or simple fix? I’ve been planning to put PinSound in but didn’t want to deal with the board work... this might be forcing my hand.
Could also increase playfield angle and go into the settings and adjust the flipper power a little lower. Though that might make shots like the ring and sword ramp harder too.
Quoted from Ed4pin:3. Find the ramp mod which extends into the Hobbit hole area. These are difficult to find now.
Just for reference are you talking about this one: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rerun-of-the-improved-arwen-plastic-protector-ramp
How smooth is the Merry shot for you guys?
Mine is super bricky and I can’t figure out why. It just seems like anything not 100% perfect bricks out before it even goes through the gate. It almost feels like a ball guide or rail is missing on the bottom right side of the sword ramp, but i think that’s just how this game is setup.
BBAE971A-ED4F-4C27-8FC5-D576440574D5 (resized).jpegQuoted from Neal_W:Your yellow post rubber is much wider than stock. See how it hangs over the nut underneath compared to mine:
[quoted image]
Look at that! Yeah previous owner likes really hard games so they must have made those thicker.
Quoted from Junglist:So in the middle of a multiball my game just reset and when it came back the right flipper was dead. I'm thinking it's just the fuse - but is there anything else I can check? I managed to crack the fuse on the removal so I couldn't confirm but it did not seem to have continuity on the MM. I was thinking of swapping left and right but I'm obv not very good at removing fuses and i need a new one regardless. Any tips before I put the new one back in?
You may have a blown transistor, I'm not sure if this is an LE only issue but read this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-lotr-le-flipper-fuse-transistor-failed
Quoted from ChipScott:Question for the group,
When this game came out, did Stern utilize LEDs for their games, or were they using and selling the game with incandescent bulbs? My guess is that they were still at incandescents, but wanted to check the groups response. Just curious.
Thx!
Yes the original release was in 2003 and games were still shipping with incandescent. I'm not sure when STERN stopped and switched to LED but I think it was their first SPIKE system releases.
Coil dust is literally microscopic pieces of metal flying off the metal plungers on the flippers, kickers, and pop bumpers. It then gets rolled all over the place by the ball eventually creating trails.
Any other dirt, dust, or environmental gunk is generally from outside the game when the glass has been removed.
When you replace these mechs after years of use they can be completely blackened with the dust. The plungers end up totally malformed and everything has to get replaced as cleaning isn't enough to bring them mechs up to a high level of function again.
Waxing can help make cleaning easier as the coil dust has a harder time sticking to the surface since there's less static. It's still there but a quick wipe of a cloth will pick most of it up and leave a slick playfield behind.
01D62F34-71C8-46B1-AAFF-A40A654A7F4A (resized).jpegQuoted from Jarbyjibbo:Coil dust is just a part of pinball. The only way to eliminate it completely is to not play the pin.
Yep, it's just the pieces of metal, the plungers mostly, smashing around tens of thousands of times and creating microscopic metallic dust.
Wax helps make it easier to clean tho.
Quoted from Ed4pin:My science background makes me think that gravity will cause most of the metal fragments to settle on the bottom of the box interior.
Wipe your finger anywhere inside a cabinet that has seen 10,000 or 20,000 or more plays and it will be completely black.
Also LEDs do not make any difference in the amount of coil dust buildup. Although reading Neal's comment above makes sense as well.
The dust basically gets exploded out in all directions from the force of whatever is moving and smashing into things; and yes most of it goes down! However enough gets up and onto the playfield and then spread by the balls to cause us problems.
Keeping balls cleaned regularly is a pretty easy way to keep a pristine game pristine.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Where are you guys finding the POTD figures?
Got some eBay a few years back.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Are those baby Bally flipper bats on your LOTR? You must really like a challenge! That’s quite a gap!
That's funny I didn't mean to link that picture to that quote, but the PinSide editor saves previous edits and stuff, forget it had been linked!
I was really bored with 30 minute games and thought I would give my league mates a laugh and a challenge. Thought it would just be a gimmick but have kept it for three years now! The game is set to an EM like angle to help a bit, and the tilt bob is very loose, so you can toss the cabinet a bit but still potentially tilt. You also get nine balls, one for each of the Fellowship. The code is also set to the absolute easiest settings.
A typical game if you are halfway decent will get you to the Destroy the Ring mode. No one has been able to destroy it yet but I've come within one shot multiple times now. Also the satisfaction of beating one of the multiball modes or ring scenes is immense, the first time myself or anyone destroys the ring is gonna be epic!
Quoted from Morgoth00:Lol I saw this pic at 4 am and rubbed my eyes thinking I wasn't seeing clearly, took a bigger sip of coffee and kept scrolling.
We call them "Hobbit Flippers" around here
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Is there an alternative to the 1 x 1 1/8" blue bumper pad? I need the bracket which Marco has but they say the pad is no longer available. They sell a 1 x 1 inch pad I could cut a hole in, will that work? Pinball Life says they have the pad but I really don't want to make two separate orders if possible. My machine came missing both the bracket and the pad. Thanks!
Check Titan Pinball.
What PinSound mix do people think is the best? I remember Wool made one of the first ones but I see they've got a couple others on the PS site now.
I've got PS in other games but have been holding off on LOTR because I haven't seen the same rave reviews of the sound mixes like for example the Indiana Jones Endprodukt one gets.
Quoted from Ed4pin:Pinsound is a big bite off the apple. I got the full kit which includes shaker, headphone station, speakers, usb with preloaded sounds and board. They discount the full kit which offsets some of the shipping cost. Is it worth the cost? There are at least 5 sound packages to download. The shaker options are included. Most importantly, you can edit the sounds and shaker with a free program which is downloadable. They are only Windows programs, but working on Mac. I like the ability to adjust volumes and change the sound packages during play. I have had an issue creating an account with them. I You do not have to set up an account to order. That has limited my ability to download from their website. I was advised that setting up an account can take time. But after a couple weeks of trying I have basically given up.
It's not unheard of to have slow or poor support with these small boutique companies but that's pretty bad you can't even get an account setup. Have you tried directly e-mailing them about the issue or is that who said it takes time?? Bizarre.
Quoted from Morgoth00:Are they sillyoldelf blades?
Well you could peel them off and get some light tack spray misted on there and reinstall.
amazon.com link »
Looks like the Sillyoldelf ones. I'd recommend the same thing, or even just lightly brush some behind the areas that are coming up instead of removing the whole thing. Removing might cause more problems/rips etc.
Quoted from Neal_W:You can also add bouncy flipper rubbers, low flipper angle, tight tilt, turn off EBs, or just go to the installs menu and chose "Extra Hard" which makes everything harder to start, etc.
For me, no extra balls is The Way!
Believe it or not this is a really fun way to play:
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