I just joined the club with a super minty LE as well! I've read the gold can wear off the lockdown bar pretty easily. What's the best way to care for the shiny stuff and prevent this? Did they resolve the flipper weakness problems with the LE? I've had a few lengthy games (nothing crazy) but haven't noticed them deteriorating. Is there a page that shows the difference between SCAN / HIRES etc. for the color DMD? I have it on HIRES right now.

Any care tips on the LE lockdown bar / side rails? A new for sale thread said his started showing wear after 50 plays

The website for redshift says "the store is closed until January". I sent him an email asking on an ETA to be able to order one and haven't received a reply. TimeBandit ?

Jealousy. That's why.

Jealousy AND penis envy

Make sure your spinner and optos are registering.

There's a stern service bulletin on flipper settings for this.

Does anyone have contact info for the redshift guy? I want to buy his path of the dead diverter/ protector but his website has had his store "closed until January" since I started looking. No reply to email. Just wondering if he's planning on selling it again or if he's closing up shop for good or what.

Thanks, I'll stand by.

The plastic you're describing sounds like a piece people install to help with issues caused by magnetized balls so it may not be sitting correctly, or you may be having magnetization issues.

Installed the shaker motor today. I have to say I think this is the best shaker motor I've had. JP and IMDN it's too much but this one is just right to accent the action in the game.

Make sure your flipper moves freely. Did you use a spacer during the install?

Ah, the old attack from the back coil replacement. Could be an alignment issue with your coil stop. Does it seem to move as freely as your other flipper? You can loosen the two coil stop screws and see if it has a little free play and get it centered.

I really, really wish I installed the NVRAM I got right before I did this but it has to go away forever. My best score yet by at least 2x.

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You may also be able to adjust your front roller switch if it sits a bit high.

The bottom of the spinner starts moving forward as the arms start bending due to ball contact, ends toward the flippers and spinner towards the ring. If you're careful you can observe the deformation with your eyeballs and adjust it by bracing the spinner bracket with your hand while pushing the spinner towards the flippers. I usually take the spinner all the way out to make sure everything is at exact angles, both vertical and horizontal.

Did you do it super quick like? I do that frequently as a troubleshooting step for misbehaving coils.

That looks amazing! You did it yourself? What does that involve, baking or something?

The spinner arms get bent forwards after being beaten on. The best way to get everything straight is to remove it from the bracket and make sure everything is perpendicular or straight 90 degrees. If you are lazy you can just grab the bracket and push the body of the spinner forward to bend the arms back.

Too many balls in the trough will cause continuous ball launches. If it's intermittent it is likely an opto / trough switch problem. Check wiring, opto alignment /switches and clean the optos with a q tip and rubbing alcohol. There should be a trough clear in the diags menu that displays where it thinks all the pinballs are and you can check that against where the balls are in reality.

That's funky. I'd suspect the trough jam opto might be flakey or something.

May have a loose screw on one side or something. Trust your playfield measurement.

I beat FOTR for the first time a few days ago and it was like I won the super bowl. I had never come close before.

Who makes that grille kit? It looks amazing.

Did a playfield protector and cliffies today. A lot of work but good peace of mind for the nicest game I own.

As a result of the protector and probably just me reinstalling the left ramp appropriately the balls are flying off of that thing like nobody's business. Is the guy still making those brass air ball guards for the left ramp?

Usually it's the white spacer at the pivot, but his seems to be there. Mech coming loose from the bottom of the PF maybe?

Edit: looked at the mech it's probably the hex post came loose and the screw head is dragging

The pinbits part is aweeome. Not only does it keep the ball from getting stuck but on mine it also made the path more random. Without it, the ball would take the right path 95% of the time. Now it's a real 50/50.

Housing league on Tuesday. What's ther best way to make ball times reasonable? Totally remove posts, or will just rubbers do it? Any other suggestions? Comedy option: disable left flipper

Thanks for the response. We've got some really good players. What I'll probably do is:

Extra balls off
Hard mode
Ball save off (is there a separate setting for multiball?)
Outlane post rubbers off
And maybe tighten up the sling switches a bit.

I used Marco's 5 ball pack after having bad luck with ball Baron's balls magnetizing. After about 6 months they are starting to get a little sticky too. What have people been having good luck with?

Another reason for your high scores being cleared it a setting labeled "reset hstd". Usually set to 600 plays or something.

But you should still get the NVRAM to prevent battery related disasters, just change the reset hstd setting to never after you install it if you want your scores to stay. I'm a big fan of Pinitech's nvram and products.

Worth it in good condition.

Wow!! Most impressive.

Pretty sharp!

Do it! Easy operation and peace of mind. Pinitech has the goods.

Wow, nice looking! I always have an internal argument of mirror blades vs art blades and wind up buying neither.

Having problems with Marcos carbon pinballs getting magnetized within a few games, I think it's issues with the trough metal itself having become slightly magnetic. I know pinbits has the sword lock thing, has anyone developed a piece for separation from the metal trough?

Previous to this the Marco's pinballs were what I found to be the best balls to use in games with magnets and they haven't caused any problems with Austin Powers or Goldeneye when others always seemed to become magnetic shortly after installation.

Another possibility: I had a batch of 3A fuses from Marco that would not hold up to the magnets in 007. They were labeled as "T3A" and "slow" on the box but looked like fast fuses with a fat part in the middle (single metal wire but with a big bump in the center). Using slow blo fuses that looked traditional (wire coiled around a thin cylinder) worked as normal.

The vertical aspect doesnt make sense but maybe the play in where the ramp sits left to right when you tightened it is to blame. Try loosening it, justifying to the left and retightening.

You may have magnetized balls that do not roll all the way to the final position. Big problem with this title. Take them out and roll them along side each other on a flat surface and see if they attract. You may also be able to very slowly open the door when you have the symptom and see if they are not seated where they should be.

Edit: just saw your last update about ending games prematurely... you may have lined up the optos incorrectly or if a magnetized ball is sticking near the last opto it could be causing this.

Also for some reason I thought this game had roller switches but I guess I'm thinking of the sword lock.

Yeah if you're taking your measurements right it looks like your coil is shorted. Ohms should be the same for two like coils.

HAHAHA yes that's awesome. POTD is a really great mechanic to getting to a multiball but it really is otherwise the achilles heel keeping this game from being totally perfect. Slows it down so much. (Just my opinion don't kill me)

I think the middle one is a clear protector for the gimli saucer or the shire area and the one on the right is a key fob. Is the one on the left also clear / no print? Is it a figure mount?

There's a dude that makes a small wireform that matches the ramps that goes over the top in that section. Most elegant solution IMO.