Trying to think through the problem for root cause, and I wondered how all balls could get magnetized after only a small amount of games. It usually takes a while...

Then I thought - where do the balls hang out a lot? The trough. Google search showed someone else with this problem recently. Some suggestions there, but I would go further and try to find out how the trough gets magnetized, if that is the case.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-trough-is-magnetized-help

-Adam

Hi-

Multi part question:

(1) I'm replacing rubbers and cleaning up as much as I can without a full playfield teardown. I note that the plastic behind the Gandalf switch, under the ring ramp, is bent upwards (see photo attached). Was it like that from the factory, in order to make ball mostly go towards pop bumpers and Barad Dur when it falls forward out of the ring magnet or off the top of the ramp on a weak shot? Or did a previous owner "mod" this in order to perform the aforementioned tasks?

I found some good playfield restoration pictures, but have not seen (or may have missed) a photo that shows how this plastic is supposed to go.

(2) The OCD part of me wants to just continue taking off all parts in order to do a really good cleaning. However, the practical part of me wants to take off just enough to get all new rubbers on, clean playfield surface and plastics/metals as best I can with naptha, use Novus 2 as best I can on available surface, wax, and put back together.

It looks like a challenging and time consuming task to remove enough to do a good playfield cleaning (and I've read that also on Pinside). Plus, I'd like to put LEDs in inserts sometime, and have not purchased LED OCD or researched in detail what bulbs to get, so it won't happen now.

My wife loves this game best of all, and I kind of want to minimize time down while we wait for her Willy Wonka LE. I've pretty much decided to let full teardown go, unless someone can advise otherwise...

Thanks,

-Adam
IMG_2979 (resized).JPG

Thanks PapaKilo !

Also, I went ahead and took off enough to do a decent cleaning and replace a few incandescent lights with new for now!!! Looks OK to put back together after cleaning...

IMG_2987 (resized).JPG

Thanks, snaroff that photo helps. I have the plastic in question and had already taken it off. It was not really affixed properly, so now I know how it's supposed to go.

The post in the photos below came off the left front of the sword ramp (player's perspective). It holds the right side of the Gimli VUK wire frame. See photo in post 4235 above https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/85#post-4989412 ). Note that the washer on my post does not come off - the top of the post has some metal flared out.

The manual shows no part like this. It shows 8 posts with 10-32 thread on the bottom and 6-32 thread on top (item 14 on page 69 of my manual). None of the other posts have the washer stuck on like this.

Can I just file off the top so I can remove the washer, then easily slip on the new Titan post sleeve? Or has somebody modded this because there are problems if the washer on top can go over the top of the post? To re-assemble, it is post with sleeve->washer->Gimli VUK wire form->washer->nylon lock nut.

I though that I had to get the post sleeve on as described here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-replace-rubber-posts-on-lotr

But even with further guidance from LTG I cannot get the post sleeve on.

Thanks for any further guidance.

IMG_2991 (resized).JPG

IMG_2992 (resized).JPG

Yes, that is the post. I didn't realize it was so bad, or I would have ordered some with my last PBL order. I did order the upgraded left ring ramp post. That puppy isn't going to bend.

I'm cleaning, waxing, checking screws & connections, and replacing all rubbers in an attempt to get my LOTR ready to volunteer for our local pinball/arcade show (deadline 5/15 if I want other volunteers to pick it up), and my wife wants me to get the Precious back up and running. So, I'm going to try and make it work for now, and order some replacement hardware on my next order.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the heads-up. A previous owner took care of the sword ramp wires. I will reinforce the ramp gate wires with some shrink wrap.

IMG_2995 (resized).JPG

IMG_2996 (resized).JPG

Yes, like snaroff , I expect that the orange wire is for the Aragorn sword ramp gate switch - the gate that is triggered upon entering the ramp. Re-solder to the bottom of the switch as in my photo. This is assuming that nobody randomly switched wire colors on a repair, and that the connector under the machine is plugged in correctly. Might be good to make connection without soldering (alligator clips are helpful), and use switch test mode in diagnostics. Dig down in menus until you find switch test grid. Manually move a couple switches so you can see how the switch test mode works, then move the ones in question.

When re-soldering, make sure you don't melt the switch.

-Adam

That's similar to what I was going to say. If it plays OK, then $4500-$5000 would be a fair price. Some TLC would make it look much better. I think working LOTR won't go much lower as long as it's not trashed.

But, you could wait for a better one and not have to put as much work into it. And also pay $5500-$6000 (or more).

I tore down a lot of my LOTR upper playfield a few weeks ago, put on all new Titan rubbers, cleaned & waxed the playfield, and had it working perfectly. Volunteered it last weekend for the NWPAS (http://www.nwpinballshow.com/) and had a lot of plays. It came back in mostly good shape.

One problem that has me baffled is the right ramp (Aragorn sword ramp) enter switch is not working. It just won't register by activating switch. My wife had trepidations about sending the precious to play with all it's pinball friends, and I want to make sure it gets repaired quickly! Please help me if you can. Below I detail troubleshooting I've done and ask questions. If everything is OK, then maybe it's just the switch.

I know there is no diode on this switch (above or below playfield). I have photo of it in working condition before my partial shop (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/86#post-4995619) and after (first photo below, with heat shrink).

If I unplug and plug in the switch below the playfield, the switch toggles as if it's been closed. I note that one of the wires on the harness side of the switch does not go back to the harness, yet I cannot find another severed orange wire (2nd photo below). Can someone look at their wiring and see if it is the same? The other 2 switch connections below the playfield at this location (rail ramp exit and right ramp made) have both wires going back to the harness.

Thanks for any help you can give.

To give back, a quick report on the 2 other problems found after a high-play weekend:

1) Titan ramp post rubbers cannot handle a weekend of freeplay with thousands at the show (3rd photo below). Oh well, I'll replace them with harder basic black post rubbers. I would not even buy Titan post rubbers for home-only use. They won't last. I do like the Titan rubber rings so far.
2) Palantir switch got bashed so much the metal leafs behind it got stuck together. This was probably going to eventually happen, as we play a lot at home and my LOTR has upgraded (ie, higher power) flippers. This has been fixed.
IMG_3126 (resized).JPGIMG_3123 (resized).JPGIMG_3124 (resized).JPG

Thanks for the feedback!

DumbAss also helped me directly. Tested switch with multimeter and it is stuck closed. I think a friend has an appropriate replacement switch, which is great since Marco is currently sold out of direct replacement.

I have some extra Titan post rubbers that I will use to replace the battered ones for now, and order better ones, along with a couple switches.

Already done last month. There was a rubber on that pop-up post behind Orthanc, but it had worn down so much it wasn't working anymore. Thanks, and good reminder for anyone else.

Thanks again to everyone with the help. It was a dead switch, not the actuator. I had a new fork switch for the Gimli/Shire VUKs. I carefully removed the fork, put the actuator from dead "right ramp enter" on the new switch, soldered, put heat shrink tubing on, and successfully bench tested, reinstalled, and play tested.

I also put new post rubbers on the 4 beat-up ones, and fixed the Palantir leaf switch. Good to go!

The new fork actuator is carefully stored. Now to order some better post rubbers and extra microswitches.

IMG_3137 (resized).JPG

Interesting. I don't have a sub, and love the shaker on LOTR.

LOTR (not LE) was our first pin in November, 2018, we played for awhile without shaker because the cord from shaker to backbox had become disconnected in the move. Once it was fixed and working, we all thought the shaker made the game much better. The feedback when you hit Balrog in FOTR multiball is great - get the rumble, and know you have to hit the ramp. We also liked the slight rumble when you collect fellowship members and during other parts of the game.

But, our LOTR came with upgraded ROM and shaker already installed by previous owner.

Someday, I'd like to get Pinsound and upgraded speakers, but don't feel the need for a sub. I've heard the different mixes, and would like to try them.

I bought these:
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/lord-rings-path-pinball-sideblades/
SillyOldElf look just as good (maybe better), but many times they are listed as "Out of Stock." I ordered from Retro Refurbs on 4/24/19, they were shipped 5/3/19, and I received them 5/11/19.

I can confirm that the Retro Refurbs were also difficult to install on LOTR. The electrical connections from backbox to playfield are not as simple to remove (although I assume they are possible) as on a modern Stern. My wife helped me, but we did not take the entire LOTR playfield out. I'm pretty sure that we started at the front and worked toward the back, with playfield starting in vertical position. (It may be that it is easier to start at back - I'm unsure.) We went in sections, removing only several inches of the backing at a time. To get around the playfield in the vertical position we kept the backing on for about the last 1/3 (from back to vertical playfield), and bent/curled the decal between playfield and outer wall. Wish we had recorded the video.

For my Stern Star Wars, I removed all electrical connections, had someone help me take out the whole playfield, and then put inner art blades on:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/install-inner-side-art-on-stern-pro-spike-system#post-4950253

-Adam

Obligatory pictures:
IMG_3679 (resized).jpgIMG_3680 (resized).jpg

Here is some reading (from my bookmark list, including one of my posts) to get you started on Balrog and VUK switches (Gimli is same as Shire).I have not messed with trough issues.

Balrog switches:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-balrog-switch-activation-problem
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/balrog-removal

If Balrog doesn't return correctly, or keeps trying to close, or goes back and forth, there is a board underneath that must have some solder reflowed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/64#post-4540540
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/48#post-4200785
There is a summary post somewhere on pinside showing the PCB - I think there is a similar problem with DE Jurassic dinosaur.

Balrog light:
While you've got the Balrog open, see if the LED conversion has been done. If not, get the 44 socket, install, and get the correct red LED lamp.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/sb148.pdf
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/balrog-led#post-4935441 (my summary from 2019)
Older:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lord-of-the-rings-balrog-led

Gimli fork switch:
http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/lord-of-the-rings-gimli-vuk-issue.4260/
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-gimli-vuk
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-gimli-hole-not-sensing-100

@lotr_breath suggested bridge rectifier. I can't help with details on that.

However, one other thought - if the game is new to you, that means it travelled. Blown fuse can be from short circuit. MAybe a nut/washer wiggled loose, or was already sitting somewhere loose. I'd lift up the playfield and jiggle it back and forth, listening for anything, and look around.

This is a less likely cause than something else like bridge rectifier or other circuit element, but a possible cause, especially if they worked in a play test before moving the pin.

We've had our LOTR for 8 months. My stepson and I have high scores (180-210 million), but my wife is the only one to start TABA (twice). She loves that music.

Full disclosure - we have our game set to 5 balls, with Special and Replay set to award extra balls. We do have the outlanes wide open (difficult).

We have been spoiled with great sound (source and speakers) on 2 more modern machines (from 2017 and 2018), so have been thinking about upgrading sound on our LOTR, which already has color DMD and shaker.

(BTW I strongly recommend upgrading to shaker, although that involves some extra work on LOTR.)

One route is better amplification and speakers, which seems to be the Pinwoofer way. The other route is better amplification, speakers, and source material, which seems to be the Pinsound way. Pinsound also offers 3 other community remixes for LOTR.

I can't say which is better, because it is up to the user. Some like the original sounds (an important point which I can understand), and just want better quality playback. Others may want better quality playback and to be able to incorporate better source material (ie, higher bit rate, better samples from the soundtrack).

PinWoofer is much more affordable.

I'm leaning to Pinsound someday, since I like the remixes. LOTR isn't leaving our house for a long time.

I think it depends on the lighting where the game is located. Read about the pros and cons of each - there is a decent write-up on one of the sites that sells both types of color screens.

If you have some windows without good light-blocking shades, plan to play during daylight, and want others besides the player to easily see the feedback on the screen, then I might lean toward color LED. Otherwise, color LCD looks nice and is more versatile (as mentioned, you can get the "LED look" with the LCD).

Disclaimers:
I never had to buy one. Our LOTR came with a color LED and we never thought to change it. I've seen LOTR with color LCD and they look nice. We do have windows in our walk-out basement, but I think an LCD would be fine there too, based on game location and our shades. In our room, I would lean to color LCD if I had to replace a dead color LED. If I had no color display, any color option would be the first upgrade (OK, color and upgraded flipper coils). The color graphics are way cool, and I find myself still watching them and smiling, especially during start of a mode or multiball.

I mentioned in another thread recently that even though I love LOTR, after several months it does not have that "one more game" feel. Playing a game of LOTR is now a long adventure, and taking the time to watch the cool color animations gives you a break before starting to flip again.

-Adam

Fixed. Sorry for confusion.

Looking for a pointer to help - I'm sure it's been discussed, but my searches on Pinside and bookmarks aren't showing anything.

Yesterday, while my wife was playing, the sound started to go wonky. Screeching, static, and sometimes the callouts were high pitched (sped up, or like they had sucked in helium). This happened a lot during modes, but also all the time. So the music/callouts were mostly there, but garbled and distorted. Kept going for a couple games.

Turned off overnight, and played a test game this morning. All sound worked fine - no problems.

Online I found lots of problems with no sound or static at lower levels, but not this problem, although I feel like I've read about it before. Anyone have links to a discussion?

1) Is this something normally solved by a reboot?

2) Is this the start of further sound issues?

3) If so, will Pinsound solve it?

I've been looking for an excuse to install Pinsound, but with Wonka being delivered soon, I was hoping to delay Pinsound expense a little longer.

Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion hawknole . I watched Pinsound Whitestar install video to see where sound connectors were located, and made sure they were all pushed in. I then checked all connectors in backbox. Most were not obviously loose, but a couple did tighten. I also checked the sound ROM, made sure it was seated well, and used compressed air to blow out any dust (it wasn't too dirty).

Sadly, the sound problems now seem to come and go every game. Examples in the YouTube videos below. Anyone else seen problems like this, and know how to fix them (or a link to the post/discussion on Pinside)? If PinSound is the answer, I'll get on their wait list, as PinSound+ is out of stock, with expected builds by the end of this month.

This video has squeaky and static sound for first ~10 sec, then OK sound for ~11 seconds.:

This video has bad sound at 10-14 seconds:

Sorry I couldn't help on POTD switch issue. Hope you are able to solve it.

re:outlanes

I am firmly in the camp of "put them where ever the hell you want!"

No shame if you close them down. Have fun with the machine in your own home. And don't be afraid to talk about good games you've had, or that "1 shot away from DTR.". Don't worry about the purists who complain that you're using 5 balls or have your outlanes closed down, or whatever.

Unless you're trying to practice for tournaments. Than make your game wicked.

For the record, we've got LOTR with outlanes wide open (they came that way), and 5 balls. My wife enjoys it that way, and when she's playing pinball, I'm happy!

Our Stern Star Wars LE has outlanes closed down, and 3 balls.

Our Beatles has outlanes closed down, and 3 balls. Keeping default of 3 maximum extra balls for now, but that may change. I've gotten to Taxman multiball, but it is hard.

Just my $0.25.

Yup. Although I might have reflowed the solder just in case, because, you know, soldering is fun.

(Disclaimer - no I wouldn't if reseating worked. I guess it's not that hard to take the screws out again in a few thousand games after the shaker and normal use have their way with the machine.)

Received notification that my PinSound+ board and headphone station shipped yesterday. Since they offered sale price and free standard shipping to entice us to buy while stock was on back-order, I paid for upgraded shipping. Hope to see it in a little over a week, and that it solves my screwed up sound boards.

Also ordered PinWoofer powered super kit. Once I get sound PinSound+ installed and working, I'll install the PinWoofer. Looking forward to the full audio experience!

I think I need to get the one ring speaker cover and lights. Those look sweet.

chubtoad13 has the correct advice. It is an 8-32 screw. Get a nice wide pan head screw and a strong washer for underneath. Get a couple lengths, noting that the other screw mount for the slings must be a little longer (see photo). It doesn't have to be stainless, but make sure it's strong, since this screw sees a lot of stress over time. I just cover up the extra length with small rubber rings. Also, get a couple new 8-32 nylon lock nuts, so that they screw on easily and remain snug.

Finally, at the bottom of the sling is an 8-32 x 1/4 T-Nut (probably 1/4" shaft):
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&search=8-32%20x%201/4%20T-Nut&product_id=100

This looks OK in your picture, but I've needed to replace a couple on older machines. These may be available at a good hardware store, but not always. Next time ordering from one of our main pinball suppliers, you may want to get some just in case.

8-32 screws are the most common ones used to put handles and knobs on drawers and cupboards in the US.

-Adam
IMG_4058 (resized).jpeg

Yeah, well, that's just, like, your opinion, man...

My advice was fine, and even noted that you should get a couple lengths. I know mine are too long.

BTW, I checked the screws on my machine before posting and they are 8-32. The previous owner was someone that I trust and knows a lot - if he upgraded 6-32 to 8-32, I'll go with it. OP may want to get both, I guess.

Yeah, my long screws look ugly. They work, stop air balls from hitting the figures, and were what I had available and let me get back to playing the game.

If you have PinSound installed, yes.

At least one of the most popular sets of sound files for LOTR on PinSound does not use "I will take the ring to Mordor although I do not know the way". It uses (paraphrasing) "....is it left or right, Gandalf?"

I up-voted these 2 responses. I would say same thing. Much better IMO to replace the coils than to muck around with fans and connecting them.

Previous owner of my machine installed PBL coils:
https://www.pinballlife.com/lotr-special-flipper-coil-090-5020-2ot.html

The PBL coils do not get weak after long games. They are powerful.

The only real problem shot is the Gimli VUK from the left flipper. Clean shots can go right through to the pops or beyond. Sometimes they only go a bit above, and fall back in time to be registered as a made shot to the VUK. I counter this by trying to hit inside a post next to the VUK from left flipper, and hoping it settles in. Or, better yet, backhanding the Gimli VUK from the right flipper, which is very makeable.

It may be that we get more bad bounces off targets or posts to drain, but I cannot quantify that.

Finally, even though I have a relatively new post sleeve on the pin behind Orthanc, we sometimes get orbit shots that will bypass the pin when it's supposed to divert the ball to Orthanc. This may be a result of the PBL coils, but I don't know.

I will say, that the PBL coils are great during Destroy the Ring. Being able to easily (well, not easily, but maybe "somewhat more regularly") make the ring shot from either flipper is nice. My game is set on 2-ball DTR, and I find that even with PBL coils, it's better to use the left flipper on second ring shot. It takes a lot of power and a clean shot, making the left geometry better.

If replacing stock flipper coils, it may be best to use the medium power coils, based on feedback from others in this thread. At this point in time, I don't see the need to replace the my PBL ones. ie, they are also an acceptable replacement, even though they may not be favored at present.

-Adam

I had that for awhile also. My solution (suggested by a friend) was to use q-tip and 90+% rubbing alcohol to clean the transmitter and receiver on the optos in the ring. Try that first. (I probably did the whole mechanism because I likely have mild OCD.)

Does your LOTR have a shaker that rumbles at start when the Balrog rotates away from ring ramp?

I agree with the above sentiments. LOTR was the first game that I thoroughly cleaned the playfield by taking apart many of the top elements to access everything. "It's not the worst game and not the easiest." I put black titans on mine ('cause at the time I wasn't sure that I'd be able to get all the black off the game from the aging black rubber). I have not done LED OCD yet.

One thing I would add - once you have taken off enough elements to clean well, you may want to take a few more off in order to put warm white LED bulbs in for all the GI lighting (if it hasn't been done yet). I think it may be easier to do from the top... Make sure you get a frosted bulb for the one that shines at you from Legolas ramp. For the ones under plastics, I liked clearer bulbs because they gave off more light. Bulbs are kind of cheap - get a couple different types and see what you like.

Thanks for following up with the info & recommendation. I put good LEDs in the shooter lane lights because a few were out and IMO it was a bit of a pain to change them. The LEDs look good to me, but I knew they were part of the controlled lamps. I look forward to an improvement someday when I LED OCD my LOTR.

Will wait until next year, though, because my sound board died a few months ago, and I installed PinSound to solve the problem rather than repair the board. I really like the PinSound options and the headphone jack. Yeah, I know it might be "best" to get the board fixed first....

See this thread and discussion. Very useful stuff.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings

Really should be a key post in LOTR club. Maybe make the post below a key post, since it references @flynnibus original thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/90#post-5071487

So much good info out there on a much-loved machine like LOTR, that it's sometimes hard to locate good or basic info.

It's a guide, not an edict. The rubber & LED maps & tables (in original thread) provide the info from the manual in a much more succinct format. Most people that use the LED section make their own substitutions and choices on colors (or not colors).

There are always new owners that can benefit from a quick pointer to some good information. It's a daunting task to wade through 5000+ posts in the LOTR club, or search the forum for other LOTR threads (many useful, many not).

No. US & Canada voltage mains are ~120VAC +/-6%. The AC voltage is converted to lower DC voltages inside cabinet. Measuring the voltage supply at flippers & comparing to spec would be a better indicator.

-Adam

Simple fixes are great!

Yeah, they come only from Retro refurb. Shipping doesn't take too long. Unfortunately you'll have to wait for coronavirus to die down before things are opened up.

IMG_6787 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6788 (resized).jpeg

[Sword ramp switches photo]

Looks similar to the trough switches! Sadly I just replaced trough switch 13 (including new diode). Turns out it was unnecessary, and that there were more switches out in the switch matrix row (pink in photo). Now I'm trying to determine which wire/connection is bad, based on follow up to this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/41#post-4066891
LOTR trough switches (resized).jpegLOTR switch matrix (resized).jpeg

Turns out I had the exact same problem as pipes 2.5 years ago - one of the green/white wires came unsoldered at the Palantir switch under the playfield. Got my daughter to help hold wires while I re-soldered and all is working again. I even destroyed the ring on my first game back. Nice to feel "whole" again and have all 4 machines working!!

1) As said, maybe not enough to justify the expense. There is an "OST" mix that is very similar to the original but in better quality.

2) Unsure - but if you do buy speakers, look at Pinwoofer or something stateside. With shipping, it didn't make sense to get the Pinsound speakers due to price. I bought Pinwoofer setup, and while I haven't installed it yet, Dan Dean has been very helpful in answering questions and with follow up.

My LOTR sound board died last year, and after some research I decided to spend money on Pinsound + Headphone Station rather than board repair. LOTR is my wife's favorite game & likely staying in our house for a long time.

We have all 4 mixes (including original) on the card and (with Headphone Station) can switch between them on the fly. We think that the Wool & Hawknole mixes make it seem like playing a new game. There are a few choices they made that I don't agree with, and a few challenges with sound levels, but mostly I'm very impressed with the alternate mixes & almost always play with one of them loaded.

My advice would be to add the headphone station when buying the Pinsound+ board.

Sorry - you'll have to double check Pinsound or other Pinside threads - I cannot remember the answers. There may be a way to change the mix by opening the coin door and accessing the volume there.

I just know that the headphone station made sense for us, due to the combination of headphone jack, volume control, and ability to change mixes without opening front door (if that works) or switching out the USB flash drive and rebooting.

In the description of the shaker (https://www.pinsound.org/motion-control/) they state:

"The Motion Control is a shaker kit (control board + shaker motor) designed to be easy to install. The Motion Control will be connected to the PinSound board (version 1 or PLUS), on the extension port."

I know some people move PinSound to different games, and some people don't care for it. If you think you may want to sell LOTR in the future, you may want to go traditional shaker route, so it can most likely be included with the game, and you have the option to sell/include or remove the PinSound board.

In our case, the PinSound board has become part of the game. If we ever sell LOTR, PinSound goes with it, and we will likely not recoup investment since the sound board is dead. We're OK with that.

You get to have some Balrog fun. Could be wire broken inside insulation, sometime connecting, sometimes not:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-balrog-switch-activation-problem

Could be the small PC board ("DC Bi-Directional Relay Board") under playfield that has Balrog wires going to it. Sometimes you need to reflow the solder on the board. Likely not this, but including link for completeness.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-balrog-motorswitch-issues

After a couple repairs, I ended up making an entire new Balrog wire harness, using 18g (I think) wire that I fed through an appropriate size heat shrink, without heating the heat shrink.

-Adam

As DCFAN said, check fuse first, but it seems like other flashers or things would also not work if fuses F7, F21, or F22 are blown. Flashers are tested in coils section of diagnostics, so I *assume* one of these fuses is for pop bumper flashers.

FYI I noticed GI lights along my LOTR backboard were out a couple weeks ago. Turns out that years of shaking and heat (I guess) had caused the metal fins/clamps in the F24 fuse holder to come loose - the fuse was loose in there. Just pinched the metal pieces together & reinserted the fuse.

I see in another thread that you verified bulbs work. That would have been my other thought. It's easy for 1 to be off and not notice it for a long time, then all 3 are out.

Wonder what the "odd construction" under playfield is (in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-pop-flashers)

Be interested to know result.