(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

4 years ago



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There are 5049 posts in this topic. You are on page 95 of 101.
#4701 55 days ago

The roll over switches in the through and sword are driving me nuts, can't manage to get them perfectly setup.
Is there a trick of some sort?

#4702 55 days ago
Quoted from jlbintn:

Where would I get this figure? A search returns many Twilight Frodo's, but not that one. Thanks in advance.[quoted image]

tht would look good with a 3mm led making it glow from behind!

#4703 55 days ago

I’m in as of Friday night. Picked up a nice lotr from a collector up in Dallas area.

A few tweaks to make for my preferences, but plays great. Pulled mirror blades, will be adding sillyoldelf side art soon. Pinstadiums added, need to get led ocd ordered and rework some lampung to get back to more of a warm white spectrum. Ordered a new 5050 led remote so I can lock down the colors on the topper and speaker inserts.

Need to add a pinnovators headphone kit too. Need to be able to play late after the kids go bed.

Time to order up the above and a few spare parts.

I think my high score in 10 games is around 12 million. Long way to go be get GC.

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#4704 55 days ago

Way too bright!

#4705 55 days ago
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#4706 55 days ago

That would be why all the existing lighting on there is going away for a more subtle and different color pallet...

That photo doesn’t even have the pinstadiums on in it. That’s just GI and inserts.

Amazing how much color wash the topper gives the playfield too. Will likely be selling that on to someone else down the road.

#4707 55 days ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

I think my high score in 10 games is around 12 million. Long way to go be get GC.

Welcome to the club. Ouch 12mil. Need more time playing and less time modding.

#4708 55 days ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

[quoted image][quoted image]

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH

Seriously that is how you get cancer playing pinball

#4709 55 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH
Seriously that is how you get cancer playing pinball

I think tonight it down will help your neighbors sleep at night
https://images.pinside.com/8/84/8845fe953f0243b04c9534910f63c958cc49d2a6/resized/large/8845fe953f0243b04c9534910f63c958cc49d2a6.jpg

#4710 55 days ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

That photo doesn’t even have the pinstadiums on in it. That’s just GI and inserts.

Actually i think the pinstadiums is the problem. Looks like they are on. You can see the zebra stripes on the wireforms and sword. Get rid of the pinstadiums and you should be good.

#4711 55 days ago

Hey everyone, if anyone is interested in having a shaker for their game, please let me know. No pal chip or rom upgrade needed, fully customizable, you pick the solenoids or flashers (up to 8 triggers at a time) to trigger the motor. And, it doesn’t draw power from the game, comes with its own power supply that turns on and off with the game. It’s all plug and play and has a nice low rumble, no high pitches vibration like some motors I’ve seen.

#4712 55 days ago

Yeah I looked again. The top white only pinstadiums were on at 100%. Had previously set them to 10%.

The side facing lights that are controllable to any color were off at 0%. So could have been much worse

I prefer a warm white look like the incandescent just without the heat. My Indy is setup that way too.

Looks like this one has one strong flipper coil, one standard, and then a strong in the tower vuk. That thing rockets balls back to you. Plenty of air balls coming off palantir target too.

Anyone have a good pair of standard coils sitting around they want to sell before I add them to my PBL order in a day or two?

#4713 54 days ago

Flashing eye mod arrived, and was installed, this morning.

Palantir mod is on it's way

eta

I had to pull the playfield out - dropped screw - and a tiny piece of the corner of the playfield plastic mirror behind Barad-dur got caught. I wasn't even being reckless and have done this many times, but it got caught for some reason this time. Found the two broken pieces, glued them back into place. The decal is good. There is a stress crack that works it's way down from 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock, not quite halfway. It's not really noticeable, but I know it's there. Is that piece replaceable, and by that I mean is it available from somebody or somewhere?

I can live with it, just ticks me off. At least it didn't crack severely.

eta part II

it is a stress crack, similar to what happens on the Arwen piece coming down from the POTD. I have installed the protectors on those so the crack doesn't get worse and actually break through and chip.

#4714 54 days ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

Looks like this one has one strong flipper coil, one standard, and then a strong in the tower vuk. That thing rockets balls back to you. Plenty of air balls coming off palantir target too.

I think I have the original flipper coils. The previous owner put stronger flipper coils in mine. Send me a PM if you want to purchase them at a discount to PBL.

#4715 54 days ago

update

found the mirror piece at Marco, but I don't think it has the art.

#4716 54 days ago
Quoted from jlbintn:

update
found the mirror piece at Marco, but I don't think it has the art.

It probably has the art under a protective layer to peel off.

#4717 54 days ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

It probably has the art under a protective layer to peel off.

yes, it does

#4718 54 days ago

I called them, they said that it did not. I imagine the mirror back for a fix or an upgrade to the art in the form of a mod would be more expensive.

edit to add:

You have to buy the decals separately.

#4719 54 days ago

Ok...previous owner put a Star trek VUK switch for the gimli switch..and everything was working great. During cleaning...my microfiber cloth caught the switch arm and bent it up. Now...I can't get a good angle on the switch so it won't register at ball rest.

I went ahead and took out the VUK...now it will be easier to use pliers to bend the switch to shape. (I tried doing it from the upper playfield but ...now I got the switch arm all bent crazy.

There is this thread about the switch, but every picture looks like different angles.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-gimli-vuk

Basically...the issue right now..is that when the ball is trying to rest, the switch arm is pushing it off/away, instead of letting the ball sit in the VUK hole. The switch needs to stay depressed for a second before the VUK fires.

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I've already worked on this for like 2 hours....any tips here on what the final shape should "look like" to try and get this working?

#4720 54 days ago

Sorry...false alarm.

When I compared the switch to an extra VUK switch I had...I noticed that the old one was excessively stiff.

When I bent the arm up while cleaning...I must have messed up the spring inside the switch and made it too stiff to activate.

So I put the new one on, bent the angle down and softened/opened the curve a bit...and it looks like it will work fine now.

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#4721 54 days ago

Help!
My NIB lotr le I've only had a month with 400 games on it all of a sudden won't turn on, no light's, nothing, Been working perfectly.
My first ever pinball so not sure what to look for and as you can imagine stressing out.
I pulled the this fuse near the coindoor, is that the main fuse, does it look blown?
Any help appreciated.

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#4722 54 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

Help!
My NIB lotr le I've only had a month with 400 games on it all of a sudden won't turn on, no light's, nothing, Been working perfectly.
My first ever pinball so not sure what to look for and as you can imagine stressing out.
I pulled the this fuse near the coindoor, is that the main fuse, does it look blown?
Any help appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

Also I'm in Australia so wanting to ensure I get the correct fuse, assuming that's my issue as it's all black and cloudy.

Screenshot_20190827-194517_Chrome (resized).jpg
#4723 54 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

Help!
My NIB lotr le I've only had a month with 400 games on it all of a sudden won't turn on, no light's, nothing, Been working perfectly.
My first ever pinball so not sure what to look for and as you can imagine stressing out.
I pulled the this fuse near the coindoor, is that the main fuse, does it look blown?
Any help appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

OK, that fuse being blown would result in the problem you are having.

It "looks" blown, but the only way to tell is to check with a DMM (digital multi meter) set to "continuity"

Buy a DMM, you should have one for pinball. A decent basic one is about 30-40AUS.

IIRC Australia uses 230VAC 50htz so yes that should be an 8amp fuse.

Take the bad fuse with you to the hardware store and get a duplicate; marking are on the fuse itself

Get a few, because if it blows again you have some issue making it blow that must be sorted

RussM

#4724 54 days ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

OK, that fuse being blown would result in the problem you are having.
It "looks" blown, but the only way to tell is to check with a DMM (digital multi meter) set to "continuity"
Buy a DMM, you should have one for pinball. A decent basic one is about 30-40AUS.
IIRC Australia uses 230VAC 50htz so yes that should be an 8amp fuse.
Take the bad fuse with you to the hardware store and get a duplicate; marking are on the fuse itself
Get a few, because if it blows again you have some issue making it blow that must be sorted
RussM

Thanks RussM, it definitely has a 5a slow blow in it and 99% certain it's blown. According to the manual and the main fuse box though, they both say 5a For international?
My manual shows the green sticker covered for "international" 5amp, and my machine has it plugged in the us one?

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#4725 54 days ago

If it had a 5 amp fuse in it and it says on the power supply to use a 5 amp ,it would seem a good idea to replace with the same.

The link you supplied say use an 8 amp but I would be careful with that without an explanation of why to overfuse.

Throw in the 5 amp fuse and get back to playing! If it keeps on blowing there is another issue

#4726 54 days ago

We have 120vac at the wall and use an 8A fuse in the US. (120x8=960watts)
You have 230vac at the wall, so a 5A fuse is enough. (230x5=1150watts)

Also, that appears to be a 3/4" long fuse, so make sure you buy one that is the same size.

Grab an inexpensive volt meter from the auto store while your out picking up fuses, in case more troubleshooting is needed.

Congrats on the NIB LotR, that must be an interesting story!

#4727 53 days ago

I am always happy when a fuse is the culprit, especially when you replace it and everything is fine

Gratz on the NIB. That's cool.

#4728 53 days ago

I have never seen this fuse blow for no reason, usually the reason this blows is from a failed bridge rectifier or a short in the wiring between the transformer and the power board.

11
#4729 53 days ago

update: a new 5a fuse has fixed my issue and pinball back to life
The only thing I can think of is I added a colordmd 2 weeks ago, and this connects to into the auxilary power source off the main box as per instructions, perhaps is drawing more power than a 5a fuse can handle?

Quick story behind my lOTR LE NIB i got a month ago. I've always been a lotr fan was was looking for my first ever pinball.

It was just a right time right place scenario. The original private collector bought brand new and stored for over 9 years. I had an opportunity to get a new le gold so I jumped on it. I can't imagine there would be many nib LEs left. I was a little concerned with things like battery leakage after 9 years in the box but was assured it was stored in a proper storage location. Everything ended up being in perfect cosmetic and working condition. Very happy so far and learning all things about pinball. So far I've just added the original figurines, colordmd and some protectors.
20190828_091919 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190828-091706_Gallery (resized).jpg

#4730 53 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

It was just a right time right place scenario. The original private collector bought brand new and stored for over 9 years. I had an opportunity to get a new le gold so I jumped on it.

If you have more unboxing photos, please post!

#4731 53 days ago

Picked up an LE last week, couple of issues which I fixed. Plays nicely.

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#4732 52 days ago

My balrog has all of a sudden decided not to open, 500 games old machine.
Light's work, balrog test works, all switches open and close correctly when run test. Balrog hit registers aswell.
I see people mentioning a relay board. But my LE has a box there instead?
He just doesn't wanna open (cover the ramp) seems to close okay.
Took the back off and wiring seems to be okay.
What should I check next?

20190829_201942 (resized).jpg20190829_205341 (resized).jpg
#4733 52 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

I see people mentioning a relay board. But my LE has a box there instead?

That is a relay, just in a box.

#4734 52 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

update: a new 5a fuse has fixed my issue and pinball back to life
The only thing I can think of is I added a colordmd 2 weeks ago, and this connects to into the auxilary power source off the main box as per instructions, perhaps is drawing more power than a 5a fuse can handle?
Quick story behind my lOTR LE NIB i got a month ago. I've always been a lotr fan was was looking for my first ever pinball.
It was just a right time right place scenario. The original private collector bought brand new and stored for over 9 years. I had an opportunity to get a new le gold so I jumped on it. I can't imagine there would be many nib LEs left. I was a little concerned with things like battery leakage after 9 years in the box but was assured it was stored in a proper storage location. Everything ended up being in perfect cosmetic and working condition. Very happy so far and learning all things about pinball. So far I've just added the original figurines, colordmd and some protectors.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That gold looks sweet on it.

#4735 52 days ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

That is a relay, just in a box.

So I disconnected the relay box and the balrog wiring, checked all connections. Plugged it all back in.
Did the balrog test and it now Opens** and closes in the test
Haven't played a game yet but that's much more promising

#4736 52 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

Did the balrog test and it now Opens** and closes in the test

I'm confused. You wrote in your first post that the test works. Was that a typo?

#4737 52 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I'm confused. You wrote in your first post that the test works. Was that a typo?

Sorry I meant the balrog test "closing only" worked earlier. The test didn't work both ways before but now it does after pulling it all apart and reseating.

#4738 51 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

So I disconnected the relay box and the balrog wiring, checked all connections. Plugged it all back in.
Did the balrog test and it now Opens** and closes in the test
Haven't played a game yet but that's much more promising

ALL HAIL THE UNPLUG-REPLUG FIX

#4739 51 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

ALL HAIL THE UNPLUG-REPLUG FIX

Yup. Although I might have reflowed the solder just in case, because, you know, soldering is fun.

(Disclaimer - no I wouldn't if reseating worked. I guess it's not that hard to take the screws out again in a few thousand games after the shaker and normal use have their way with the machine.)

#4740 51 days ago

i have very weird problem on my machine.
during game all solenoids are very low. all up kickers almost not poping the ball out.
but during test mod or during ball search they are very strong and its works great.
i change the settings for coil power but nothing change. any on know maybe why its happen? its very annoying. btw i replace all switches in the all vuk

btw if you saw my post that i made decals for the machines https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/93#post-5144154

i have a friend who ask me to make a set for him and he installing them right now. so i special print it for him and i must print not less of 15 meters in the company who made for me the prints. so i have few sets for sale.
if someone wants just send me a pm. thanks

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#4741 51 days ago

Was working on my le yesterday, fixed a loose lamp or 2 and added the volcano mod with the red led glow which was joined in front of cab.
Turned on and within 30 secs the game froze, turned off and back on. Only lights on no display so open backbox and mpu board totally dead, now this is my first Stern so was sweating a bit! Checking fuses I noticed F11 fuse on power board looked slightly different but not blown looking, metered it and it was gone. Put new 3a fuse in as didn’t have a 4a and it has been ok but I have not plugged the volcano mod back in yet to see how it goes without it.
F11 fuse powers the mpu board I wouldn’t have thought an led or two extra would have caused that but the previous owner has put quite a few mods on it.
Hopefully just a fuse glitch as I have seen this before.

#4742 50 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Was working on my le yesterday, fixed a loose lamp or 2 and added the volcano mod with the red led glow which was joined in front of cab.
Turned on and within 30 secs the game froze, turned off and back on. Only lights on no display so open backbox and mpu board totally dead, now this is my first Stern so was sweating a bit! Checking fuses I noticed F11 fuse on power board looked slightly different but not blown looking, metered it and it was gone. Put new 3a fuse in as didn’t have a 4a and it has been ok but I have not plugged the volcano mod back in yet to see how it goes without it.
F11 fuse powers the mpu board I wouldn’t have thought an led or two extra would have caused that but the previous owner has put quite a few mods on it.
Hopefully just a fuse glitch as I have seen this before.

Ugh, power problems are always a pain in the butt. The Volcano mod does not add any significant load on the 12v/5v circuit, but you can add only so many pennies to a to a full cup of water before it overflows

I would make sure you have the proper fuses on hand, then try plugging the Volcano mod in at the front of your cab while the machine is ON so you can see in real time if that is what is causing the fuse to blow.

Do you still have other mods installed?

#4743 50 days ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

i have very weird problem on my machine.
during game all solenoids are very low. all up kickers almost not poping the ball out.
but during test mod or during ball search they are very strong and its works great.

I had the same problem after a relocation where I disconnected the back box and . when reconnecting everything I missed one connector that had high power for the VUK coils. They were fine in test mode but not in game. I'm not near home now but as I recall it was one of the bottom connectors on the bottom board in the back box.

#4744 50 days ago
Quoted from jdroc:

I had the same problem after a relocation where I disconnected the back box and . when reconnecting everything I missed one connector that had high power for the VUK coils. They were fine in test mode but not in game. I'm not near home now but as I recall it was one of the bottom connectors on the bottom board in the back box.

thank you very much i just check my connectors and its looks like all of them are connected and i still have this problem....

#4745 48 days ago

Code version running on mine. Is there another update or is this the most recent?

20190831_204903 (resized).jpg
#4746 48 days ago
Quoted from multibrawlr:

Code version running on mine. Is there another update or is this the most recent?[quoted image]

Version 10.0 is the latest: http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=ROMS190

#4747 48 days ago
#4748 47 days ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Ugh, power problems are always a pain in the butt. The Volcano mod does not add any significant load on the 12v/5v circuit, but you can add only so many pennies to a to a full cup of water before it overflows
I would make sure you have the proper fuses on hand, then try plugging the Volcano mod in at the front of your cab while the machine is ON so you can see in real time if that is what is causing the fuse to blow.
Do you still have other mods installed?

Hi thanks for the reply.
I plugged the mod in earlier today after having a problem free weekend with it and guess what it went wrong again!
Blew the F11 fuse again so got my meter out and the volcano mod has a short circuit, it came new with the machine but not fitted.
I will leave it unplugged as it looks better than standard anyway. Such a shame.

#4749 47 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Hi thanks for the reply.
I plugged the mod in earlier today after having a problem free weekend with it and guess what it went wrong again!
Blew the F11 fuse again so got my meter out and the volcano mod has a short circuit, it came new with the machine but not fitted.
I will leave it unplugged as it looks better than standard anyway. Such a shame.

That’s crazy. I wonder if it was modified by the previous owner?

Send me a PM, if you cover shipping costs I’ll send you a new one free of charge.

I’m curious what is wrong with that one you have...

#4750 47 days ago

Hi guys,

Recently got a Shaker Motor kit for my LOTR LE.

So far have installed the motor and mounted the board, haven't yet connected the wiring, two questions so far:

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-factory-authorized-shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

- My PCB board with the factory kit I have above only has one fuse (link above) but I've seen pictures with shakers installed with a PCB board that has 2 fuses?

https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

This other kit above has 2 fuses. It's confusing as both kits say they will work for the LOTR LE, but thought I'd get the "stern factory authorized" version.

- I noticed some people mount the PCB board so the letters are upside down, does this matter? There doesn't seem to be clear direction which orientation to mount the PCB board. Here's an example of someone else with the same kit mounting the PCB board upside down.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-shaker-install-shaker-doesnt-work

Cheers
shaker (resized).jpg

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