Congratulations! I recommend the led

Speakerlightkits.com

What did you use for the PotD lighting?

Interesting. I don't have a sub, and love the shaker on LOTR.

LOTR (not LE) was our first pin in November, 2018, we played for awhile without shaker because the cord from shaker to backbox had become disconnected in the move. Once it was fixed and working, we all thought the shaker made the game much better. The feedback when you hit Balrog in FOTR multiball is great - get the rumble, and know you have to hit the ramp. We also liked the slight rumble when you collect fellowship members and during other parts of the game.

But, our LOTR came with upgraded ROM and shaker already installed by previous owner.

Someday, I'd like to get Pinsound and upgraded speakers, but don't feel the need for a sub. I've heard the different mixes, and would like to try them.

Maybe it's because I am used to the shaker intensity on my other sterns but I would say that on my LOTR, the shaker is probably about 10-20% as intense as the shakers on my other games. It's just not very noticeable. I wish it was as i have shakes on all my other games and love them.

had a good game last night with a chance to get to valinor , had 5 elf gifts and TT and ROTK multiballs completed along with TABA ,choked at getting the last 2 members across the bridge on FOTR mb !! completed DTR for a second time but then drained working on requalifying FOTR,

If I had restarted and then completed FOTR would DTR start or do I need to restart TT and ROTK again before DTR?

I think you have to replay both Multiballs. But you could just one them out. But have to requalify and replay iirc

The shaker I have in mine (aftermarket on the 2003 model) is just as intense as my LAH. Perhaps yours isn't operating properly???

This is true from a pure art standpoint, but I think it's important to mention that the sillyoldelf side art is extremely difficult to install and really requires that the whole playfield be taken out.

Installed a pinwoofer super kit this week and it already sounds incredible. Sub + backbox speakers + powered amps. I can't wait to get the pinsound board in here. Still waiting for those to become available again.

Here are some install pics.

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1dacb2b19fc6842acfb9602a5f34d2924fa11468-14 (resized).jpg

I bought these:
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/lord-rings-path-pinball-sideblades/
SillyOldElf look just as good (maybe better), but many times they are listed as "Out of Stock." I ordered from Retro Refurbs on 4/24/19, they were shipped 5/3/19, and I received them 5/11/19.

I can confirm that the Retro Refurbs were also difficult to install on LOTR. The electrical connections from backbox to playfield are not as simple to remove (although I assume they are possible) as on a modern Stern. My wife helped me, but we did not take the entire LOTR playfield out. I'm pretty sure that we started at the front and worked toward the back, with playfield starting in vertical position. (It may be that it is easier to start at back - I'm unsure.) We went in sections, removing only several inches of the backing at a time. To get around the playfield in the vertical position we kept the backing on for about the last 1/3 (from back to vertical playfield), and bent/curled the decal between playfield and outer wall. Wish we had recorded the video.

For my Stern Star Wars, I removed all electrical connections, had someone help me take out the whole playfield, and then put inner art blades on:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/install-inner-side-art-on-stern-pro-spike-system#post-4950253

-Adam

Obligatory pictures:
IMG_3679 (resized).jpgIMG_3680 (resized).jpg

We are excited to be a part of the club today. After a few games, we got a bunch of errors and none of the VUK are working. Anyone have an idea about the following switch errors:
1) Balrog hit
2) 4-ball trough #1 (left)
3) Balrog open
4) 4-ball trough #3
5) 4-ball trough #2

I greatly appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks

Here is some reading (from my bookmark list, including one of my posts) to get you started on Balrog and VUK switches (Gimli is same as Shire).I have not messed with trough issues.

Balrog switches:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-balrog-switch-activation-problem
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/balrog-removal

If Balrog doesn't return correctly, or keeps trying to close, or goes back and forth, there is a board underneath that must have some solder reflowed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/64#post-4540540
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/48#post-4200785
There is a summary post somewhere on pinside showing the PCB - I think there is a similar problem with DE Jurassic dinosaur.

Balrog light:
While you've got the Balrog open, see if the LED conversion has been done. If not, get the 44 socket, install, and get the correct red LED lamp.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/sb148.pdf
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/balrog-led#post-4935441 (my summary from 2019)
Older:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lord-of-the-rings-balrog-led

Gimli fork switch:
http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/lord-of-the-rings-gimli-vuk-issue.4260/
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-gimli-vuk
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-gimli-hole-not-sensing-100

The Ring of Fire mod looks fantastic, but is sold out on the Mezel Mod homepage. Does anybody know if and when it will be again?

Niropinball in france has somethin similar
https://www.2niro-pinball.com/fire-ring-lord-of-the-ring/1750/

I want one of those too!!!

Suggestions for cleaning and removing tarnish? Brasso?

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20190727_100109 (resized).jpg

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20190727_100114 (resized).jpg

You would have to start all MBs to get DTR started, before entering Valinor.

But as Paynemic said, you could just time them out.

Thank you for the link!

This stuff worked for me on my MM.

You want to take the parts out of the game because the stuff makes a lot of residue.

https://www.pinballlife.com/x-treem-metal-polish.html

Thanks

Adaminski,
Thanks for the extensive thoughts on potential issues. After reading through all of it, I found fuse F8 to be blown. I replaced it and then it blew immediately upon restart. Any thoughts about what this might be? I appreciate the help.

Bridge rectifier B3 bad possibly?

It’s true that both Retro Refurbs and Silly Old Elf are thinner than Tilt Graphics, and harder to work with. I have a pretty tried and true method of applying blades without removing (just lifting it up all the way) the playfield.

PM me if I can help. I’m sure lots of people have great methods that work for them too.

Agreed that the PF needs to be removed but I always remove the PF when installing cabinet art, even the thicker ones from other retailers. As I posted before, I use a very simple 2 person process:

I rest the back of the service rails on the LDB receiver and had my wife push down on the apron to lift the entire PF up out of the cab. That's the way I install all of my blades and it always works great. Doing this, the sillyoldelf art was no harder than any of the other 10+ sets of blades I have installed.

I don't doubt that at all unfortunately I wouldn't know where to begin to check to isolate what the issue is. It works as I can feel it when I keep the sub off but like I said, it's really weak. I followed all the instructions from the thread on the topic. I've had many a shaker in my games but never one with a weak current issue (which is the only thing I can imagine it being to cause the weakness).

How do I test the rectifier?

@lotr_breath suggested bridge rectifier. I can't help with details on that.

However, one other thought - if the game is new to you, that means it travelled. Blown fuse can be from short circuit. MAybe a nut/washer wiggled loose, or was already sitting somewhere loose. I'd lift up the playfield and jiggle it back and forth, listening for anything, and look around.

This is a less likely cause than something else like bridge rectifier or other circuit element, but a possible cause, especially if they worked in a play test before moving the pin.

Hi here's Ronald from the Netherlands. The Helm's Deep light on the right keeps burning while it should be flashing.. Anybody has a clue?

Is it burning all the time or is it only burning when it should be flashing?
If it is on all the time then the transistor is likely shorted and needs to be replaced. If it is on only when it should be flashing then try a different bulb.

With your meter, you should see AC in and DC out. They can fail or maybe a bad connection.

A full wave bridge rectifier is a common power supply component. Plenty of info online.

This is a problem as the 12V is needed by your plasma display to operate, this voltage is fed through the Display Power Supply connector from the Power Supply board, but is not used by the Display Power Supply.

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Good choice, this is one of the best upgrades you can add to this game. You will be pulling your 12V to drive the color DMD from another source; however if you are not generating 12V from the Power Board, then you will still have no working display as the ColorDMD runs solely on +12V...Check your +12V fuse.

I removed all connections to my Display Power Supply board after installing the Color DMD; see this post for more information if you are interested in doing this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/61#post-4442968

I have had my LOTR for about 3 years now. Today I got to TABA for the first time. All I knew was the music was something I never heard before. I had just used my new digital level to set the pitch and tried a quick game. I hope to get to TABA again! And beyond.

We've had our LOTR for 8 months. My stepson and I have high scores (180-210 million), but my wife is the only one to start TABA (twice). She loves that music.

Full disclosure - we have our game set to 5 balls, with Special and Replay set to award extra balls. We do have the outlanes wide open (difficult).

Nice. Mine is also on 5 ball and set to medium. Outlanes small.

You should have a family tournament to see who does the dishes

What is this brass wireform mod im hearing about?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-habitrail-mod

Has anyone had experience installing the ministry of pinball palantir mod? How does it work?

Yes, really easy to install. You remove the old one including the screw and put back a rubber ring that holds the glass ball.

Below the mod’s I would recommend (they are in order):
1. Stronger flipper coils (must, if not done yet)
2. ColorDMD
3. Pinsound
4. Palantir mod
5. Path the dead mod

Nice of you to make some suggestions to a fellow pinsider! PinWoofer has a turnkey powered audio kit that's had great reviews on LOTR.

Here is our website link:

https://pinwoofer.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fpinwoofer-powered-super-kit

Select "Stern - SAM / Whitestar" under "PLATFORM AND DUAL AMP POWER HARNESS".

We have been spoiled with great sound (source and speakers) on 2 more modern machines (from 2017 and 2018), so have been thinking about upgrading sound on our LOTR, which already has color DMD and shaker.

(BTW I strongly recommend upgrading to shaker, although that involves some extra work on LOTR.)

One route is better amplification and speakers, which seems to be the Pinwoofer way. The other route is better amplification, speakers, and source material, which seems to be the Pinsound way. Pinsound also offers 3 other community remixes for LOTR.

I can't say which is better, because it is up to the user. Some like the original sounds (an important point which I can understand), and just want better quality playback. Others may want better quality playback and to be able to incorporate better source material (ie, higher bit rate, better samples from the soundtrack).

PinWoofer is much more affordable.

I'm leaning to Pinsound someday, since I like the remixes. LOTR isn't leaving our house for a long time.

Still getting our pin setup and working as expected. Anyone have any idea why we would get random auto launched balls? There seems to be no reason for it. Appreciated any help, thanks for the support.

Trough opto board problems. Try reflowing the solder on the boards. If that does not work they are not expensive to replace. Pinballlife usually has them.

Is this the opto trough board?

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-trough-opto-board-set.html

Hi guys,

Just got my first ever Pin this week - a LOTR LE brand new in box.

I've put about 100 plays on it so far and it's amazing!

Just today I'm having an issue with my multi ball modes though, I'm only getting 3 ball multi balls not 4 like I had been?

I've checked the ball trough and that's registering all 4 balls, also done switch test and that looks okay, sword switches all working too.

I've tested Fellowship MB and it's not firing out the 4th ball, same with two towers and ROTK. 4th ball just sits in the trough.

Any ideas, I Have no idea about pinballs so please bear with my knowledge?

Cheers

Oops have I not studied the game right? I guess the 4th only comes out if you hit the palantir, is that correct?

Add-A-Ball:
During any movie multiball, lighting Palantir during the MB and then collecting
it will usually give Add-A-Ball. This puts one additional ball into play, up
to four (if the player hasn't lost any). This award is pseudo-random - you will
USUALLY get it within the first or second Palantir, but occasionally not.
No ballsaver comes with this extra ball, however, balls drained SDTM *right* as
the new ball is ejected will usually be returned to play as well.