Absolutely! I made the mistake of buying one sheet, now every game has a sheet.

Thinking of adding LED's and was wondering which ones (package deal) I should get? I see others buy from companies and was wondering which ones and why you like them and how different from others that offer these. Thank you. I can always changed the bulbs back from time to time to change it up some.

Kits are dumb. Seriously a huge waste of money that you could spend else where like buying the LEDOCD board so it doesnt send you into a seizure. Just make a list of how many bulbs, color and form factor and order them. Cometpinball is where I buy. I personally dont like colored bulbs under inserts so ordering standard bright LEDs for inserts and using the board programming to dim down where needed and using frosted bulbs in spots such as under the lower rail guard and slings to diffuse the light looks fantastic. Dont buy ghost busters, only standard. My .02

I have recently done this to my machine. I used flynnibus guide in this post...https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings Really excellent guide for all the LED's and rubbers! I made a couple of changes for my own personal liking. I purchased all the bulbs at Cointaker total cost was around $100 also bought the LEDOCD board and couldn't be happier with the result, no clown puke and the colors are rich and vibrant without losing the original effect what the machine was designed for. It's well worth going this route IMO, saves a lot of money over the kits and the effects are awesome! Many thanks to flynnibus for taking the time to put the guide together.

I've got this exact setup as well following the guide, and it looks fantastic. The LEDOCD is a must, LEDs on a LOTR without it is almost painful....

One error on the guide in that article: the nine GI lights next to the shooter lane are 44/47 bulbs and NOT 555. Buy some WarmWhite Frosted Dome 44/47s for those.

Search this thread, there are complete lists available including one by me (modified someone else's). You save a lot by just buying them individually yourself, and you can customize. The kits aren't only expensive, but they also often feature weird colors -- and they are almost always non-ghosting bulbs which won't work with LED OCD which is a far better visual experience.

Get a good scan of the plastic so you have the artwork. Trace the outline of the plastic and any mounting holes on a sheet of paper and scan that as well, you can use that to create an outline file to have the plastic laser cut. It always helps to have something next to the plastic for size reference, a ruler works well. The scanned art will probably need to be cleaned up but then you can print it on water slide decal paper and apply it to the plastic. The results usually look pretty good. There are options for direct print to plastic but I've never looked into them since they seem expensive.

Thank you all that sent back their suggestions. Chappie101, thank you for the flynnibus Maps. AUKraut, again thank you for the corrections on the Map and I still have not put in your creation of the Palantir Eye yet. Thank you Ktownhero for your suggestions I have so much to do to this LODR I picked up here in the Philippines as sitting in the back of an arcade machine for a few years. Reason being thinking of a kit and now thinking of the flynnibus ones to choice from is that living here in the Philippines it takes about a month or a little less or even more to get a Priority Mail package here and its expensive as hell to send. A large Priority Mail is close to $95 bucks to send. A medium is about $79 and small is $40. So I have to be careful of how I order stuff and try to order enough stuff to fill a large box. Thank you all again. Any more suggestions will like to see also.

Hi all
I am wondering about the barad-dur eject on my game. It always ejects softly and the ball ends up in the ORC lanes. I saw on youtube that the PAPA game always ejected stronger over to the Orcanth tower. Is that what you all see on your games? The coil is nice and clean and I put in a new sleeve as well.

thanks

Anecdotally, mine always drops to the ORC lanes.

That video was showing some kind of anomoly. I believe Keith Johnson may have chimed in about that video and the vuk the first time that video was posted on pinside.

Here it is:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-papa-video-lord-of-the-rings-pinball-–-the-valinor-strategy#post-1657563

That's not behaviour. Play on.

Mine does it as well, also wondered about the one in Papa, but I don't think that feeding Orthanc every time is a nornal behaviour

That makes sense. Thanks all!

The Pinball Life ones are far stronger. The ones I offer on here are between the PL ones and the stock ones.

Andrew

CLEllison if you do that. I'd be happy to get the picture. Mine is broken too
thanks

If you LEDs the game, LEDOCD the game as well. This isn’t something that needs a lot of thought. LEDs suck without it, and with it, they are beautiful. Even cheap LEDs will look good.

As for PinSound, the news isn’t as good. I bought a few PinSound boards, and I LOVE them in 90s games like BSD and Getaway. But I just didn’t like it in LOTR. Now I realize a huge part of that is how much I like the normal calls of LOTR, and I’ve owned the game twice. Something different felt odd. So I ended up pulling it out of LOTR. Just one guys opinion.

Thanks for the information. After doing everything including stripping the playfield and under replacing sleeves, springs, flippers and cleaning the Opts. etc then putting back together the playfield LED's, DMD etc. I will stay away from Pinsound boards and see about getting the LEDOCD. So much to do but will get it done. No rush as I am retired. Just have to wait for more items to arrive as it takes about a month Priority mail to get to the Philippines. Will take before and after pictures of the machine when its done.

Seems like an awesome game.
Wouldn´t it be even better with a led-screen integration like the jjp hobbit one?

Maybe stern can make a v2?

Thanks, I might start with a GI OCD in JM because it’s just such a big deal in that game. If it goes well probably get back to the OCD in LotR.

I totally second this. Love pinsound. Just not in this game.

I wonder if anyone reaches Valinor without your coils?

I know I was one shot away, and the factory coils had no juice in them.

I purchased your coils... Just too lazy to install them yet

I notice you do not have the Stern Y actuator on the Gimli VUK, so I'm sure you are familiar with all of the reported VUK issues on this game.

I have had those VUK switches replaced perhaps 6 times, but finally decided to have a mechanical engineer put in a tungsten switch which points down into the VUK opening. That was about a month ago.

Since then I've been playing the game perhaps 1-3 hours per day and the switch appeared to work perfectly for the longest it ever has, but several times, the machine has done 2 things during an extended game (each time 40 minutes plus):

1. Hiccup the VUK 2-5 times with no ball present or after the ball has been kicked. This can happen several times.
2. Reports "Operator Alert! #5 Right VUK Coil Malfunction" (Incredibly, this occurred just as I reached Valinor the last time and I was trying to record the error on video and got Valinor scoring info I'll post)

There does not appear to be anything wrong with the switch itself, which is not misshapen, clicks normally when pushed manually, and passes in switch test mode. The engineer suggests the problem is not likely to be the coil, but is probably a problem with the data bus which is sending incorrect information to the VUK.

Has anyone been through this secondary issue with the Gimli VUK? Anyone have advice on how to proceed to diagnose and correct this problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Valinor Scoring Strategy

I see lots of guides on how to get to Valinor, but I know there are a number of folks who are beyond that now and looking to maximize the scoring potential when they get there. Does anyone know of any good guides for scoring well on a Valinor multiball?

On my last Valinor, I had the poor fortune to have a coil malfunction just as I destroyed the ring to trigger the multiball. However, since I was trying to record the coil malfunction error, I also happened to get video of the introductory scoring explanation at the beginning of Valinor. Here is what the machine displays, 1 screen at a time:

1. Valinor Multiball with ocean/sunset background
2. Spinner scores 25,000
3. Pops score 50,000
4. Shire scores mystery points
5. Rings of power score 1,000,000
6. Complete rings to add a ball
7. Path of the dead scores 250,000
8. Super jackpots start at 2,500,000
9. Center ring and Barad-Dur light super jackpots
10. Combine supers for huge points!
11. Valinor multiball--score in this particular game--shoot flashing shots

Without video of the Multiball in play, I think I'll have difficulty figuring out how much of this works, since there is a lot of information to process on the fly. However, I have a few thoughts and more questions:

1. I'm not sure how you complete rings (#6), since all of the ring lanes appear to be lit as they are for DTR or ROTK multiballs. Anyone have ideas?
2. Items 1, 2, 3, and 7 appear to be window dressing that probably does little for score maximization
3. Item 5 could be significant, depending on the awards, but the shot is risky while in multi ball, so this also may be best avoided. Does anyone have experience with those point values?
4. Accumulating rings is probably a big deal for the add a ball feature as well as the possibility sets make other jackpots available
5. Center ring is probably the key shot, since that may have all the features of A) an elf ring B) jackpot lit C) secondary chance at a Barad-Dur if missed for another jackpot lit
6. I don't have any idea what pre-qualifications there may be to light a super jackpot in terms or rings, ramps, loops, fellowship characters, etc. Does anyone have info on this?
7. Item 10 is the most intriguing and may be the wizard mode within a wizard mode. Has anyone else received a single huge award during Valinor?

If anyone would share stationary camera video taken from Valinor, I'd love to analyze it and collect info to write guide.

Since there are relatively few data points (I've had fewer than 15 lifetime trips to Valinor), I think it would really help to have this be a group effort.

I find the Witch-King mode to be the single most difficult in the game, even more so than ROTK, which requires tremendous distribution of attention. I can make the Legolas/Aragorn combo with some regularity (maybe 20% from the inlane to right flipper), but that's not good enough to make 4 in 30 or 40 seconds (with extra time). Also, if I get a good combo streak going, it gets broken up by a sword lock. I'd like to say it's easier when layered with a movie multiball, or even Gollum, but I've found that even more distracting.

Lifetime, I've seen the sword go in the witch king's mask maybe 3 times as compared to 10-13 trips to Valinor.

As a game strategy, I just decided it was a good one to have running during TTT, since it probably won't mess up the TTT goals (I don't ever want to be distracted from FOTR or ROTK goals). I still make an effort to get some score on WK, because whatever you score on the mode, you have the opportunity to score again on TABA.

I put in a switch like the one in Stern ST pro vuk. It has worked flawlessly for years. I bent the tip down slightly to miss the plunger.

I believe I copied your approach and I can verify it works perfectly.

The "stock" GIMLI switch failed within a couple months of unboxing it in 2004. The circular switch has been flawless for over 15 years and many thousands of plays.

All.parts came in, time to get my poor mans pinstadium built! This setup is fantastic. Gameon with sensor run into Barad Dur plugged into the service outlet. 12v RGBW LEDs. Follows the GI going on and off and even better when I power off the game thaley shut off as well! No need for extension cords or nasty wall warts. Played with the color remote and out of all the settings blue and white looked best in my opinion (Also showing a pic with green with white with white turned down). The lights showing on the lower right hand side are the playfield GI light reflection.
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20190706_203334 (resized).jpg

Thanks for the response.

To be clear, I had a mechanical engineer install a custom switch that points down and is similar to images I've seen in other posts as a "ST pro switch". It is after this correction, and with the switch still testing correctly, that I am getting the coil malfunction error (#5). It always seems to occur well into a game (20-40 minutes) with the right VUK triggering even when the ball is not in the hole (up to 4-5 times in a row). After 2-3 such hiccup occurences, I have been getting the coil malfunction error. After that occurs, the VUK goes dead in terms of recognizing the switch, but will still kick up the ball during a ball search.

So the question is...Does anyone know why the right VUK coil malfunction might occur when it appears the switch is working correctly?

Fresh new member, looks like meats back on the menu boys!

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Your switch is having intermittent issues and showing pressed when it is not. That makes the VUK coil fire, but the switch does not change, so the software thinks the VUK coil has failed and turns it off, but it still works in ball search, so you know the VUK is OK.

Open the switch test in the diagnostics and test it out a bunch and you will see. Maybe it is failing, or partially pressed and needs adjustment.

Maybe get a ST switch and put that in. Works 100%.

This explanation makes sense. Before I read it, I played a bit more today. To summarize:

1. After not playing for 3 days or so, I decided to see if I could play again for a short period without problem, but this time the right VUK hiccupped immediately when I turned on the machine (no ball yet inbounded)
2. I moved to switch test to confirm the switch wasn’t stuck somehow and got a positive result on the first click, but after that the switch no longer registered on the matrix
3. I inspected the switch and it doesn’t appear like there is a mechanical problem, but I could not make the switch register again in test

I think this is consistent with your diagnosis, particularly given the VUK is firing in ball search. Am I reading you correctly that the fact the VUK operates in ball search rules out any chance the coil is the problem?

Thanks for your help on this. Does anyone have the part number for the ST Pro switch that works as a solution?

How do I find a circular switch similar to yours? Do you have a part number?

Thanks for your help.

I have found time and time again that when the fork switch appeared to be bad, after I replaced it I used a meter and sure as hell the switch checks out good.
I've learned that by pressing the armature down against the switch and then bending the forks up to the point of when released the forks barely set below the play field. This ensures when a ball lands on the fork it assures to get activated. I realized this after my 3rd VUK issue/replacement. Been solid for many many games over many many months now. Try it out. It's absolutely free

I don't. It was my first pin purchase and my distributor installed it. In those days, I wasn't as handy with games and didn't pay attention. I can take a photo if necessary.

Curious to know how you guys find the center ramp shot on your game. Do shots often go up the ramp and right through the ring with power, or do they rely more on the magnet to catch them?

I've owned two LOTRs, and on my previous games, I was doing DTR in 30-40 seconds at best. Now, 1:30 is considered quick on this other machine.

Seems that a lot of shots up the ramp end up just falling down, rather than crossing over into the ring.

I'm thinking either the spinner is impeding the shot, or the angle of the ramp is off.

Any suggestions?

It's a SDTM nightmare when the flippers get weak resulting in poor shot at the ramp. The magnet catches the ball a good 98% of the time. Yes, a bent spinner does in fact impede velocity and the spinners wire form does get bent. Go into test mode and spin the spinner and place the ball in the ring. Ensure the spinner switch works without that working the magnet wont come on. Check the magnet fuse. Use a 4 amp if 3 is present.

Last night I collected all gifts of the elves for 2nd time ever. The machine went into what I believe to be 4 iterations of ring frenzy (based of audio and pf lighting). Multi ballad on each iteration. Shot the ring made the completion audio and started another one. Is that normal?
And when those modes stopped, as the ball came out of the pops I heard Gimly say, "You got double points!" First time I've ever heard that as well.

I put in a brand new spinner, so I think it might be the ramp. Anyone have suggestions on how to tell if it's level?

Can anyone who has one working well perhaps take a photo with a flat ruler showing where it is in relation to the ring opening.

Is the spinner face angled back at the bottom? If the bottom of the spinner face is angled towards the front it will take some momentum away from the ball.

I think that reward for completing all of the Elven Gifts is called Super Ring Frenzy Multiball. Maybe someone else can confirm?

I notice that most of you have black flipper bands, mine are red. I'm wondering if they're superbands...

Might try to find some default bands, I think it'd be easier to catch the balls with.

Red is more pliable and the power transfer is greater from flipper to ball however more difficult to dead stop balls. Everything is super bouncy making ball control more difficult. I personally use red and just learned to become a better player lol.

Superbands are not popular because they don't bounce like the original rubber, so there is less challenge, less opportunity to improve your skills, and they are typically not used in tournaments. Titan competition silicone is one option for multicolor that has a bounce similar to rubber.

What is a plastic set worth these days? I don’t have the toys or the thick plastic ones.

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If it is the same as this in-stock one at Marco's then $279 would be the price.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/803-5000-80

Yours may be worth a bit more if you throw in the kettle chips and the rj45 adapter.