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(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,610 posts
  • 552 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by Asylum
  • Topic is favorited by 284 Pinsiders

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There are 6610 posts in this topic. You are on page 88 of 133.
#4351 1 year ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

Thanks for the feedback!
dumbass also helped me directly. Tested switch with multimeter and it is stuck closed. I think a friend has an appropriate replacement switch, which is great since Marco is currently sold out of direct replacement.
I have some extra Titan post rubbers that I will use to replace the battered ones for now, and order better ones, along with a couple switches.

Not to state the obvious as it was already mentioned (but since you didn't mention that you tried adjusting the switch arm) are you 100% positive that it isn't just registering closed because your switch arm is bent in such a way as to always register as closed? This commonly happens on switches like this (either not registering or always registering). Just wouldn't want you going through that time and trouble when a simple bend of the blade with a screw driver would solve it.

#4352 1 year ago
Quoted from C_S_S:

Since you have extra, make sure you add a post rubber to the deflecting post beneath the play field behind the tower. You’ll need to trim it a bit but it’s worth it. Over time my orbits have gotten more reliable with stopping the ball during Ents mode as a result of this install.

Already done last month. There was a rubber on that pop-up post behind Orthanc, but it had worn down so much it wasn't working anymore. Thanks, and good reminder for anyone else.

#4353 1 year ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

I think a friend has an appropriate replacement switch, which is great since Marco is currently sold out of direct replacement.

I have some extra Titan post rubbers that I will use to replace the battered ones for now, and order better ones, along with a couple switches.

Throw the old switch away but keep the metal actuator from it. You never know when it will come in handy. Also, you can order about any microswitch from Marco and simply move the metal actuator on the broken switch over to it.

#4354 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Show caseing some mods a colleague and I have been working on. The path of the dead comes with holes to mount the figures or in a cheaper alternative without has multiple etching options. Sword will be available soon, one pictured is a prototype finish will be a smoother crisper paint
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sword hilt looks amazing! Any idea on price point?

#4355 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

Sword hilt looks amazing! Any idea on price point?

Not sure yet, itll be reasonable. Itll come with 3 ,new plastics, 4 standoffs, sword and be hand painted. Looking to shave some cost on wood type and painting time. Should be ready to roll this week or next

#4356 1 year ago

If you could provide it unpainted for those of us skilled with brushes and airbrushes, it would also reduce cost and your burden

#4357 1 year ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

If you could provide it unpainted for those of us skilled with brushes and airbrushes, it would also reduce cost and your burden

Will do

#4358 1 year ago

robertstone( or anyone else) would it be possible to supply along with the etched path plug and play wiring for the interactive POTD figures?

#4359 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

robertstone( or anyone else) would it be possible to supply along with the etched path plug and play wiring for the interactive POTD figures?

Figures youll have to track down i can take pictures of how to wire it interactive or you can always just tap into the GI

#4360 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Figures youll have to track down i can take pictures of how to wire it interactive or you can always just tap into the GI

Would appreciate a wiring diagram or just pics of the interactive version.

#4361 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Figures youll have to track down i can take pictures of how to wire it interactive or you can always just tap into the GI

I suck at soldering but have a new iron on the way that might help , please post the interactive wiring thanks

#4362 1 year ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

One problem that has me baffled is the right ramp (Aragorn sword ramp) enter switch is not working. It just won't register by activating switch.

If I unplug and plug in the switch below the playfield, the switch toggles as if it's been closed. I note that one of the wires on the harness side of the switch does not go back to the harness, yet I cannot find another severed orange wire (2nd photo below). Can someone look at their wiring and see if it is the same? The other 2 switch connections below the playfield at this location (rail ramp exit and right ramp made) have both wires going back to the harness.

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

From what you say I would pronounce the switch dead and simply replace it.

Quoted from Neal_W:

Sounds like your switch is stuck closed or the actuator needs adjustment. Notice that your actuator is bent and mine is straight. I would start by checking that.

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Not to state the obvious as it was already mentioned (but since you didn't mention that you tried adjusting the switch arm) are you 100% positive that it isn't just registering closed because your switch arm is bent in such a way as to always register as closed?

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Throw the old switch away but keep the metal actuator from it. You never know when it will come in handy. Also, you can order about any microswitch from Marco and simply move the metal actuator on the broken switch over to it.

Thanks again to everyone with the help. It was a dead switch, not the actuator. I had a new fork switch for the Gimli/Shire VUKs. I carefully removed the fork, put the actuator from dead "right ramp enter" on the new switch, soldered, put heat shrink tubing on, and successfully bench tested, reinstalled, and play tested.

I also put new post rubbers on the 4 beat-up ones, and fixed the Palantir leaf switch. Good to go!

The new fork actuator is carefully stored. Now to order some better post rubbers and extra microswitches.

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#4363 1 year ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

Thanks again to everyone with the help. It was a dead switch, not the actuator. I had a new fork switch for the Gimli/Shire VUKs. I carefully removed the fork, put the actuator from dead "right ramp enter" on the new switch, soldered, put heat shrink tubing on, and successfully bench tested, reinstalled, and play tested.

Bravo. It's always a great feeling of accomplishment when one can fix an issue without a new parts order. Thanks for bringing it to the NW Pinball and Arcade Show.

#4364 1 year ago

Does anyone have the instructions to installing the Lermods Lighted Gandalf Staff? They are not on the website and Lermods has not yet responded to my inquiry.

#4365 1 year ago
Quoted from netman63129:

Does anyone have the instructions to installing the Lermods Lighted Gandalf Staff? They are not on the website and Lermods has not yet responded to my inquiry.

PM sent

#4367 1 year ago

Thanks for the speedy response. The problem was on my end (browser).

#4368 1 year ago

Hi, can someone please tell me how I can find the mistake. in the test menu sound comes from u37 no sound.
have already exchanged the rome, it still does not sound.

Many greetings

#4369 1 year ago

Looks great, I'll be buying a sword hilt this weekend. Do you think it's possible for flying pinballs to hit it? I'm wondering about the paint chipping or the edge pieces breaking off

#4370 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

Looks great, I'll be buying a sword hilt this weekend. Do you think it's possible for flying pinballs to hit it? I'm wondering about the paint chipping or the edge pieces breaking off

Its got a good size acrylic under it that should keep the ball from flying

#4371 1 year ago

No founds right now but I will gladly take an unpainted one by the end of the month

#4372 1 year ago

Aahhhhh! After 6 months of trying and failing to destroy the ring on my second LOTR pin I've owned, I finally destroyed the ring tonight, in 1:21. In fact, I finished all 3 multiballs again, and destroyed the ring a second time in the same game. I got to There and Back Again for the first time ever. I have never even seen it before tonight. Pretty cool! I won't describe it, just in case others are seeking their first trip... I owned a LOTR before, and destroyed the ring 2 or 3 times with that machine. However, it had those medium strength replacement flippers that are slightly stronger than the factory Stern flippers are. My new pin has the factory flippers. They are a challenge to hit the ring cleanly sometimes. I did buy the medium strength replacements coils, but I haven't installed them yet. I am torn between enjoying the challenge, and wanting crisp shots that cleanly hit the ring, which is probably what was intended. I would say it's a 50/50 proposition on my pin to make it up the ramp and into the ring. Definitely takes concentration and a clean shot. Anyway, love this game! Can't wait to destroy the ring again, and to finish TABA, and to get to Valinor. I need to complete the Gifts from the Elves to do that, and finish all the modes? I got to TABA by starting all the modes, but I don't think I completed them all. Must I gather all the Gifts too? I only got 3 gifts tonight.

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#4373 1 year ago

Yes, for Valinor you must get all the gifts, finish all multiballs (saving all the company.for example) and destroy the ring.
There are some video tutos on the net.

What's the ref of that replacement coil?

#4374 1 year ago

They look like this, and I’ve seen them advertised for sale on Pinside in the past. Hopefully it’s ok to post this. I found this one for sale on the website that rhymes with B-Flay! I can’t remember who offered it here. I will check my receipt...

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#4375 1 year ago

I have an early run LOTR that I purchased NIB in 2004. "Stock" flippers/coils and my flippers are wildly strong. Game has many thousands of plays.

I don't understand why some machines seem to need a coil replacement (to boost flipper strength) and some don't.

#4376 1 year ago

I agree, it’s strange. My LOTR is a 2004 original too. My flippers feel adequate, but not strong. I can hit the ring shot if it’s clean, but I did notice that by Destroy The Ring time, they seemed a bit tired. My previous LOTR had more pep, but I hear broken plastics are the trade off, if you get carried away.

#4377 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I agree, it’s strange. My LOTR is a 2004 original too. My flippers feel adequate, but not strong. I can hit the ring shot if it’s clean, but I did notice that by Destroy The Ring time, they seemed a bit tired. My previous LOTR had more pep, but I hear broken plastics are the trade off, if you get carried away.

I keep my flipper mechs really clean (with fresh sleeves), but I can't imagine that would explain the strength difference. IIRC this platform doesn't have EOS switches on the flippers. For platforms that do use EOS switches, that is often the culprit. If the switch fires too soon, it reduces the flipper strength.

#4378 1 year ago

I have replacement flipper coils 2004 machine that have the stock part number 090 502020, they seem pretty powerful particularly with the gimli vuk shot which requires some finesse and a clean r orbit shot comes back quite quickly, the ramp shot is fine when hit clean maybe a little fade with play till destroy the ring and beyond but probably more poor aim on my part

I can't imagine using more powerful coils , I wonder at times whether these are the pbl upgrade coils but they would have LOTR printed on them with the same part number ?

#4379 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I don't understand why some machines seem to need a coil replacement (to boost flipper strength) and some don't.

Yes the original coils are strong, but the power fades a little after an hour of play due to the way the originals heat up.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

I did buy the medium strength replacements coils, but I haven't installed them yet.

You can install a fan to cool the originals instead of swapping them out.

#4380 1 year ago

I was one very last shot away from starting Valinor, and the flippers were too weak to make the ring shot.

It's weird because it made the first ring shot, but the second just wouldn't go. I made about 7-8 shots, and some were very clean.

I also noticed that it's usually easy to make the first ring shot, but not the second. Even if I get into DTR early on.

Any ideas what that could be?

#4381 1 year ago

I'm picking up a LOTR that has a broken vertical shire VUK plastic (the riveted piece), and from what I understand to replace it you have to buy an entire plastics set. All other plastics are fine though and already have plastic protectors so I'm wondering if I can just fix this using the lexan piece as others have done with the velcro. No better solutions have come along for this plastic piece yet hey?

#4382 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I was one very last shot away from starting Valinor, and the flippers were too weak to make the ring shot.
It's weird because it made the first ring shot, but the second just wouldn't go. I made about 7-8 shots, and some were very clean.
I also noticed that it's usually easy to make the first ring shot, but not the second. Even if I get into DTR early on.
Any ideas what that could be?

I red somewhere that the flipperpower is reduced during DTR. That should reflect that Frodo was very exhausted at the time he reached the Vulcan.

#4383 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

I red somewhere that the flipperpower is reduced during DTR. That should reflect that Frodo was very exhausted at the time he reached the Vulcan.

Really? I would be very interested in whether or not that’s actually coded in. There is a papa video that shows the flippers getting weak on the last shot. I assumed the game was just over heating

#4384 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

I red somewhere that the flipperpower is reduced during DTR. That should reflect that Frodo was very exhausted at the time he reached the Vulcan.

Source? Seems far-fetched

#4385 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

I red somewhere that the flipperpower is reduced during DTR. That should reflect that Frodo was very exhausted at the time he reached the Vulcan.

But then he realizes that the eagles could have just brought him some new coils?

#4386 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

Source? Seems far-fetched

I do not remember I red it. But you can notice it during gameplay.

#4387 1 year ago
Quoted from Zora:

I do not remember I red it. But you can notice it during gameplay.

Don't believe everything you red. DTR plays strong on mine...no exhaustion here.

#4388 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Finally!!! After close to two years of missing my membership card to this club... Lord Of The Rings is in the house!!! It's not the same one I sold, but it's in really good shape, and plays fast and loose. Color DMD, LED OCD, and a few other tidbits. It's gonna be a happy night!!!
[quoted image]

And... Three years later, I’m out again. LOTR is one of the greatest games ever made, but I have played it enough. I knew every callout by heart. And I have to say owning it again was as good as it was the first time. But I think owning it twice is enough. The new owner was happy to get such a nice copy of the game, and I’m happy that someone else will get the joy of discovering how much LOTR has to offer a player.

So I leave this club happy that I’ve had two bites at the apple, even though I failed to get to Valinor. Play on players.

#4389 1 year ago

installed my etched path of the dead mod from rpg models,the machine already had pot mod but it was wired to activate with the trough switch and the leds had stopped working.really wanted the dead guys to light up with the corresponding backboard light so did that as well.

the etching is really nice on the plastic and artistically done to not interfere with seeing the switches underneath. i used warm 5mm leds from modeltrainsoftware.com a great site if you like bright shiny objects in your pins!instead of wiring underneath the plastic i ran the wires down the side and hid them behind the postsfor a cleaner look , soldered some extensions and matrix female conectors on the end. I used matrix 1 smd bulbs with green condoms to power my dead guys . it looks great when most of the gi lights dim when the ball is about to be ejected into the path , the guys glow nice but not super bright , perfect...!!

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#4390 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

They look like this, and I’ve seen them advertised for sale on Pinside in the past. Hopefully it’s ok to post this. I found this one for sale on the website that rhymes with B-Flay! I can’t remember who offered it here. I will check my receipt...[quoted image]

I purchased this coil from a pinside shop and installed them, happy with the performance.

#4391 1 year ago

Decided i needed the bling from at least one gold ring under the glass so bought some 99 cent rings from amazon. (ok worked out to$ 5.00 for 3 with shipping), THe front of the cab needed a little something so i put one on a blue shooter rod.still have one more.....

Really enjoying playing playing all the modes destroying the ring ,playing all the crazy ring frenzies elf gifts and taba, i think i will shift focus to more strategy for the quest for valinor!!

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#4392 1 year ago

Hi Guys,
not sure it has been mentioned here, but there is an ongoing PIN2DMD colorization effort here :
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/4036-lord-of-the-rings-wip/

I'm planning to set it up asap

#4393 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Hi Guys,
not sure it has been mentioned here, but there is an ongoing PIN2DMD colorization effort here :
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/4036-lord-of-the-rings-wip/
I'm planning to set it up asap

Stayed away from pin2dmd as I was not happy with the colorizazions, but this one looks finally promising.
Might need to dig a bit to see what over titles now look ok

#4394 1 year ago

Anyone heard of any PF makers are going to make any again for LOTR? Mirco, CPR, etc?

#4395 1 year ago

hi guys,

Tool some time to install my playfield protector, but now facing an issue; the gate in front of Orthanc that opens during war of the ents is now behaving strangely; it kind of shakes when it opens due to the coil.
Any idea on how to make it still as it was before when opened?

#4396 1 year ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

hi guys,
Tool some time to install my playfield protector, but now facing an issue; the gate in front of Orthanc that opens during war of the ents is now behaving strangely; it kind of shakes when it opens due to the coil.
Any idea on how to make it still as it was before when opened?

Mine is doing this and I don’t have a PF protector. I plan to check the solenoid it might be worn or parts need replacement or binding somewhere etc.

#4397 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Mine is doing this and I don’t have a PF protector. I plan to check the solenoid it might be worn or parts need replacement or binding somewhere etc.

Looked and found service bulletin 147 which seems related to this.
For sure I did not put it back that way, will try that tomorrow.

#4398 1 year ago

Joined the club. Beautiful pin with lots of fun mods. Has full LED OCD kit, pinsound+, color dmd, balrog topper, led backbox with eye of Sauron flasher, FF speakers, Palantir eye mod, and many more.

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#4399 1 year ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Looked and found service bulletin 147 which seems related to this.
For sure I did not put it back that way, will try that tomorrow.

Yep, that solved it!
Last issue left: ball througb

Sometimes the ball are going all the way down, so the kicker opto does not see them and it goes for a ball search. Any idea on how to solve this?

#4400 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Joined the club. Beautiful pin with lots of fun mods. Has full LED OCD kit, pinsound+, color dmd, balrog topper, led backbox with eye of Sauron flasher, FF speakers, Palantir eye mod, and many more.[quoted image]

nice ! hope you enjoy it. the only things that baby needs is the decal pack for the palantir and ring targets and shire and maybe the POTD mod!

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