(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

4 years ago



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  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Daditude
  • Topic is favorited by 242 Pinsiders

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There are 4531 posts in this topic. You are on page 84 of 91.
#4151 3 months ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

for this game in particular, I prefer a warmer, dimmer look so will likely reduce the overall brightness as well.

Incandescent bulbs provide this exact this type of illumination. It's my personal experience that incandescent bulbs are not only significantly cheaper they also last a lot longer than their LED replacements.

I know LEDs are the trend right now and they look great in games that were designed for them, but I have to ask why everyone seems to think every game should have LEDs...<ponder>

#4152 3 months ago
Quoted from swilson143:

LOTR is a tough one for powder coat choices, since every side of the machine uses a different color pallet. I tried an oil rubbed bronze colored powder and I'm really pleased.

You made a good choice. That looks great!

#4153 3 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have an OCD in mine. I understand there are settings but I’ve never messed with it. In this game, does it make sense for me to learn and adjust the settings?

I guess the answer to this question lies i whether you have a condition similar to the board’s name. In other words, are you OCD about how things look? I was very OCD and spent a little time (but not much) tweaking a few bulbs for brightness so they blended in with the others. If you don’t see any issues then skip it and stick with the stock profile that you initially loaded.

#4154 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Incandescent bulbs provide this exact this type of illumination. It's my personal experience that incandescent bulbs are not only significantly cheaper they also last a lot longer than their LED replacements.
I know LEDs are the trend right now and they look great in games that were designed for them, but I have to ask why everyone seems to think every game should have LEDs...&lt;ponder&gt;

They consume less power, they are better for the life of the machine. It's a bonus that they look better (when tastefully done, IMO)

#4155 3 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

It's a bonus that they look better (when tastefully done, IMO)

They SO do - but you're on the money - it's got to be done right or not at all.

#4156 3 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have an OCD in mine. I understand there are settings but I’ve never messed with it. In this game, does it make sense for me to learn and adjust the settings?

certainly not mandatory to learn the settings, but i agree with the other comments that LOTR is a delicate flower when it comes to LEDs.

Personally i used Comet's 2SMD warm white frosted bulbs throughout - so they're all the same brightness, colour temp & profile. Also easier/quicker to buy a big bunch 75% wedge to 25% bayonet, roughly speaking, than it is to colour match and build a complex shopping list.

Brightness can be adjusted down to maintain that dimmer glow like incandescents. It's 85% peak by default i think with LED OCD, which is a good start.

There's also the delay which i think i set to 1, instead of the default 2.

In summary, you get out what you put in!

Sometimes i wish i could OCD Metallica Premium. It's way too blinky & bright for my eyes!

#4157 3 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I really, really wish I installed the NVRAM I got right before I did this but it has to go away forever. My best score yet by at least 2x.
[quoted image]

Isn't the high score capped at 250 million on the original production runs of this game?

Nice job btw, sorry you had to lose that.

btw, still having quirky issues with that right VUK. It knows the ball is there, but it takes it's good ol time sometimes kicking the ball up, usually ending up in ball search mode, and of course always right in the middle of a game.

Grrrr....

#4158 3 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

One bit of advice - if you go into the built-in help menu it takes you through a troubleshooting procedure, one of the later steps is to use a wire and short the tab of the magnet transistor to ground to test if the transistor is good and the magnet energizes. Mine tested bad (because the fuse was blown) but I decided to try shorting some nearby transistors to see what would happen. Well, what happened was that I got a spark and blew two transistors , so DON'T DO THAT! I had to replace the 2 transistors and the blown magnet fuse and now all is back to normal with no further issues after several games.

This exact scenario happened to me just recently.

#4159 3 months ago

Hello Lotr family,
Is it possible to reset the Destroy The Ring Champion time? I have searched with no luck

J.T.

#4160 3 months ago

I have to replace the original backbox speakers and wires (from a Pinsound card, long story) and wanted to make sure I have the wiring correct. Can anyone confirm how the wires run to each of the 2 backbox speakers? Thanks in advance.

#4161 89 days ago

Just joined the club today, are there any must have mods I need to have to enjoy the game? I plan on having it for a long time.

#4162 89 days ago

Color DMD, shire decal, cliffy’s, and palantir one are the must haves in my opinion

#4163 89 days ago

The palantir mod is one of the best in all of pinball. That's the one you need to have.

#4164 89 days ago
Quoted from CreepyTom:

Just joined the club today, are there any must have mods I need to have to enjoy the game? I plan on having it for a long time.

Color DMD in Scan mode really enhances the game a lot. I think the Shire Decal is much needed as that part of the playfield is so barebones without it. I'm also a fan of the Army of the Dead mod to add some character to that upper playfield. As stated above, the palantir mod is incredible but almost impossible to find. A new person is making them now but there's a back order list of at least a year already, and we don't even know if enough parts exist for him to make them all.

If you're into enhancing the art, there are some really great options for art blades: sillyoldelf's are my favorite, but there are also brass mirror blades which are cool and a few other art blades including ones that light up.

All in all, it's a great game. I'd suggest just giving it a good cleaning and enjoy the game.

EDIT: LEDs are controversial on this game, but IMO if you do them tastefully they really add to the game as well. You need to use an LED OCD though which is not cheap. Don't try to do LEDs without one, there is too much dimming in the game that will cause LEDs without the OCD to just flicker too much.

#4165 89 days ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

EDIT: LEDs are controversial on this game, but IMO if you do them tastefully they really add to the game as well.

The incandescent bulbs do look good in this game; however, LEDs are the way to go if done tastefully. I ordered the Cointaker complete kit. Once I had it installed, I made some modifications to suit my taste. Warm white in the GI is a must for this game! I also added spotlights on the slingshots to light up the middle of the playfield a little better. I'm in a pinball league with 20+ pinheads and they all said this was the nicest LOTR lighting they've ever seen.

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#4166 88 days ago

Anyone have a spare soilders of the dead figure? I bought a game where the previous owner super glued the figures on and got finger prints and you name it all over jt and a white haze. Looks aweful. I bought another set but it only comes with 3. Not looking to spend another 60 for only 1 figure. Anyone able to help me out

#4167 88 days ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Anyone have a spare soilders of the dead figure? I bought a game where the previous owner super glued the figures on and got finger prints and you name it all over jt and a white haze. Looks aweful. I bought another set but it only comes with 3. Not looking to spend another 60 for only 1 figure. Anyone able to help me out

I can't help you with a figure, but are the finger prints something you can buff out with some novus or something?

#4168 88 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I can't help you with a figure, but are the finger prints something you can buff out with some novus or something?

They like used a heat gun or something and melted them too. No idea what they were thinking

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#4169 85 days ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

They like used a heat gun or something and melted them too. No idea what they were thinking
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty sure I have an extra. I don't remember which guy though. What kind of wiring was used on yours that is clear?

#4170 85 days ago

Does anyone make a harness that taps into the potd lights? I have the plastic and the guys but they have been sitting for a year.

#4171 85 days ago

Joined the club 3 weeks ago, but did not have a chance to post yet. Also wanted to finish my topper work. The fellow pinsider I bought the LOTR from, had made a castle topper from a toy. Was mounted on a piece of lexan and tied down with zip ties.
Well, let's just say it did not survive the transport from Arizona to California (not to myself, secure the pin to the floor in your SUV, and don't store anything inbetween the pin and the driver seat).
Anyhow, I decided to build a better base out of plywood and light it up. Build a backdrop out of plywood and made it look like an old castle wall. Lots of dremel work on those stone grooves .
Put some LEDs in and have the dragon and the back drop on two different circuits. Next step, tie the dragon into the gameplay .
Have some videos, but no idea how to upload them.

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#4172 84 days ago

Helping a friend who has a Balrog that has stopped registering hits. I found a few old posts....Best to remove balrog and look for broken wires behind it? How hard to remove it?

Thx.

#4173 84 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Helping a friend who has a Balrog that has stopped registering hits. I found a few old posts....Best to remove balrog and look for broken wires behind it? How hard to remove it?
Thx.

I'm actually pulling it out tonight and replacing the switch and all the wiring. The balrog assembly is very easy to remove and would suggest it.

#4174 84 days ago
Quoted from Pinash:

I'm actually pulling it out tonight and replacing the switch and all the wiring. The balrog assembly is very easy to remove and would suggest it.

Cool thx. What parts did you buy?

#4175 84 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Cool thx. What parts did you buy?

Basically just ordered the switch

Data East/Sega/Stern Ball Detect (blade with roller) Sub-Microswitch 180-5119-02
180-5119-02

I had plenty of wire, but if not you would want to order 22 gauge strainded wire.

#4176 84 days ago

I see the left ramp right side wire either inside (as in the picture) or outside the stainless ball guide. Mine's inside and I was thinking about moving it outside.
Has anyone tried both and seen the outside setup help with the shot?

Capture (resized).PNG
#4177 84 days ago
Quoted from lb1:

I see the left ramp right side wire either inside (as in the picture) or outside the stainless ball guide. Mine's inside and I was thinking about moving it outside.

Mine is outside, and I get a lot of balls flying off the ramp and landing in the shire area, like others have reported. I wonder if that is the issue.

Anyone else know which is correct?

#4178 84 days ago

Mine looks just like in the picture. I have very few balls fly off.

#4179 84 days ago
Quoted from lb1:

I see the left ramp right side wire either inside (as in the picture) or outside the stainless ball guide. Mine's inside and I was thinking about moving it outside.
Has anyone tried both and seen the outside setup help with the shot?
[quoted image]

Mine is outside and I am fairly certain that is the way it was when I received it NIB. I don't believe I have ever removed that ramp.

#4180 84 days ago

When I was shopping mine I, accidently, put it inside and it didn't play right. But, I don't know what it was from the factory.

#4181 84 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

When I was shopping mine I, accidently, put it outside and it didn't play right. But, I don't know what it was from the factory.

It might just be playing too fast after shopping it.

#4182 84 days ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

It might just be playing too fast after shopping it.

Crap, how do you do a line through text?

I messed up my post, I meant to say that I did on the inside, in error. And when I did that the ball would hit the end of the wire form and play not right. I moved it to the outside and it plays as I think it should, and which I believe to be the correct way to "mount" the wire form.

#4183 84 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Crap, how do you do a line through text?
I messed up my post, I meant to say that I did on the inside, in error. And when I did that the ball would hit the end of the wire form and play not right. I moved it to the outside and it plays as I think it should, and which I believe to be the correct way to "mount" the wire form.

No problems. You edited the right way.

#4184 83 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Helping a friend who has a Balrog that has stopped registering hits. I found a few old posts....Best to remove balrog and look for broken wires behind it? How hard to remove it?
Thx.

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/balrog-removal#post-2477735

#4186 83 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Crap, how do you do a line through text?
I messed up my post, I meant to say that I did on the inside, in error. And when I did that the ball would hit the end of the wire form and play not right. I moved it to the outside and it plays as I think it should, and which I believe to be the correct way to "mount" the wire form.

Interestingly, there does not seem to be a consensus on what's the right set up. I took the glass off. When the wire is on the inside, the ball hits it. On the other hand, when it is on the outside, I can see how the additional speed would send the ball flying off the ramp a lot more often.

#4187 83 days ago
Quoted from lb1:

Interestingly, there does not seem to be a consensus on what's the right set up. I took the glass off. When the wire is on the inside, the ball hits it. On the other hand, when it is on the outside, I can see how the additional speed would send the ball flying off the ramp a lot more often.

I'm pretty sure that's why that ball guide has a "wedge" cut out of it to help put the wire form on the outside of it.

As for the ball flying off the wire form, there are different fixes in this thread for that. Obviously, if your game is freshly waxed it'll happen more. But, there are, relatively, easy plastic pieces you can make to help prevent issues.

Here is a pic of one:

air ball protector (resized).jpg

#4188 82 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I'm pretty sure that's why that ball guide has a "wedge" cut out of it to help put the wire form on the outside of it.
As for the ball flying off the wire form, there are different fixes in this thread for that. Obviously, if your game is freshly waxed it'll happen more. But, there are, relatively, easy plastic pieces you can make to help prevent issues.
Here is a pic of one:
[quoted image]

I like this solution! I'll give it a shot.

#4189 77 days ago

jfesler was extremely helpful to me on fixing my "Balrog Hit" error. Wanted to add this to the LOTR forum to help with others...

I did leave the Balrog on the motor pivot, but just removed the back plate from the assembly. Two hex/slotted screws hold it in place.
The switch is exposed then. Remove the two Phillips head screws and the switch assembly comes right off. The issue with mine was that the switch was wired wrong as I got the game. Follow the correct mounting of the two red wires (on my game at least) so that the switch is normally closed. Two red wires going to normally closed/normally open.

I also had to bend the Roller Microswitch out to have the Balrog close it when in the resting position.

My game was registering a Switch Matrix issue because of this. Ball launch was auto-firing was the main issue.
Replaced switches, optos in trough, and scratched my head on this one. Again, hoping others learn from my problem.

Stern Switch Wiring (resized).png
#4190 77 days ago

My wife was playing my LOTR while I was at work and the sound went out. She says it went from full sound to absolutely nothing. No pop, and no raising or lowering of sound.

I checked the fuses, and they are good. All wires seem to be intact. I have reseated the cn2 and sound chips.

What am I missing? Where do I go next?

#4191 77 days ago

I would check the voltage at the test points on the CPU/sound board. You should have 12 volts at pin 5 of the output transistors. The output transistors are U101 and U102 in the diagram, part # TDA2030A. Can you test the speakers? Do you get any sounds in the sound test menu? Tried raising and lowering the volume with the coin door switches? Also, CN4 would be the likely connector.

I once had a Sega with sound issues and the -12volts was not right. Ended up being a bridge rectifier.

lotr sound (resized).JPG

#4192 77 days ago
Quoted from Daditude:

My wife was playing my LOTR while I was at work and the sound went out. She says it went from full sound to absolutely nothing. No pop, and no raising or lowering of sound.
I checked the fuses, and they are good. All wires seem to be intact. I have reseated the cn2 and sound chips.
What am I missing? Where do I go next?

See this thread for lots of good info, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-sound-now-gone. Hopefully reseating U7 fixes it

10
#4193 74 days ago

So i got my LE with a path of the dead rhat the person used super glue and acetone to clean it
Long story it was trashed. Had a buddy cut me a new one and etch skulls in it. Love it

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#4194 74 days ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

So i got my LE with a path of the dead rhat the person used super glue and acetone to clean it
Long story it was trashed. Had a buddy cut me a new one and etch skulls in it. Love it
[quoted image][quoted image]

Like those etchings, a very nice touch!!!

#4195 74 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Like those etchings, a very nice touch!!!

Yeah its actually a reimage from the plastic below it

#4196 73 days ago

Hi folks. Huge LOTR fan here.

Is there anything more to "joining the club" than to favorite this thread?

I'm interested in any techniques folks are using to maximize scores and particularly interested in a guide which includes scoring goals during Valinor MB.

Had my machine since 2005, but I have just had some maintenance done after it was out of service for approximately 10 years.

#4197 73 days ago

Consider yourself joined! Now on to Valinor...

#4198 71 days ago

Balrog help The Balrog on my game is very loose. It opens and closes correctly. Yet as you keep playing the ball the Balrog moves. Whatever is supposed to hold it in place isn’t working. Anybody have some advice how to adjust this? I’ve searched through these forums and haven’t found anybody with that exact same problem.

Thanks

#4199 71 days ago

The VUK in my Shire is not popping up the balls consistently. 70% of the time, the ball ends up in the Shire, and stays there until ball search.

Then it usually tries to pop it up, but it ends up not getting onto the wireform, and dropping back into the Shire.

Does this sound like the switch or VUK or both?

Thanks

#4200 71 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

The VUK in my Shire is not popping up the balls consistently. 70% of the time, the ball ends up in the Shire, and stays there until ball search.
Then it usually tries to pop it up, but it ends up not getting onto the wireform, and dropping back into the Shire.
Does this sound like the switch or VUK or both?
Thanks

The vuk is a switch, replace it. Happens after a while...

Bending it up may be a temporary fix but it'll stop working after a little bit.

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