(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

5 years ago



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There are 6253 posts in this topic. You are on page 79 of 126.
#3901 1 year ago

Hey all,
I’m exploring some passive cooling options for my flipper coils. Anyone try anything like this? I bought 100 on ebay.

They’re self adhesive computer chip heat sinks. I guess my question is do I stick them to the wrapper? Does the wrapper need to be there? What if the aluminum touched the wire in the coil (is that wire insulated anyway?)

0F3094D0-B539-4CD1-B6EC-EDE2104A9647 (resized).jpeg

#3902 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hey all,
I’m exploring some passive cooking options for my flipper coils. Anyone try anything like this? I bought 100 on ebay.
They’re self adhesive computer chip heat sinks. I guess my question is do I stick them to the wrapper? Does the wrapper need to be there? What if the aluminum touched the wire in the coil (is that wire insulated anyway?)
[quoted image]

I can’t tell if you’re joking . If you’re not I’d think that applying them to the wrapper would have limited effect, you’d want to be write on the metal to have it actually be able to pull heat off the coils rather than pull heat off the wrapper. I’d also think the vibration of the unit would knock these things free in no time... can’t they no of any harm in trying though... you’ll need to cover the thing in heat sinks to move the needle though.

#3903 1 year ago

Totally serious. Except the typo that said cooking instead of cooling

I do intend to pretty much wrap the coil in them. And put a small zip tie for mechanical locking.

Main question is if there were any aluminum contacting the actual wires of the coil (if I took the wrapper off) would that short something? The coil wire is insulated or it would just short across itself anyway, right?

I put fans on my last lotr to keep the coils from fading in long games. Seemed to work but it was a PITA and always coming apart.

#3904 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I’m exploring some passive cooling options for my flipper coils. Anyone try anything like this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cooling-flipper-coils-by-aluminium-heat-sinks-or-pc-fans

#3905 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Totally serious. Except the typo that said cooking instead of cooling
I do intend to pretty much wrap the coil in them. And put a small zip tie for mechanical locking.
Main question is if there were any aluminum contacting the actual wires of the coil (if I took the wrapper off) would that short something? The coil wire is insulated or it would just short across itself anyway, right?
I put fans on my last lotr to keep the coils from fading in long games. Seemed to work but it was a PITA and always coming apart.

It’s a thing... who knew? sorry to doubt you. Lots of good info in the link from Neal_W. I knew of the different coils and people adding fans, had heard the heat sink thoughts before.

#3906 1 year ago

Would like some LOTR owners opinions on side blades and rubbers. What side art does everyone like best? Do mirror blades or side art look better on this machine? For rubbers, I was thinking Titan translucent for the most part and black or red posts with red flipper rubbers?

#3907 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Would like some LOTR owners opinions on side blades and rubbers. What side art does everyone like best? Do mirror blades or side art look better on this machine? For rubbers, I was thinking Titan translucent for the most part and black or red posts with red flipper rubbers?

You're right on with the rubber idea - I have clear silicon in mine with red/black posts, and it looks perfect. I went with the shiny gold flipper bats from PBL with red silicon rubber, and I think it looks amazing.

#3908 1 year ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

You're right on with the rubber idea - I have clear silicon in mine with red/black posts, and it looks perfect. I went with the shiny gold flipper bats from PBL with red silicon rubber, and I think it looks amazing.

I think we might have the exact same setup!

#3909 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Would like some LOTR owners opinions on side blades and rubbers. What side art does everyone like best?

Mine came with volcano side art. I think they look stupid. Does Mordor even have more than one active volcano?

#3910 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Mine came with volcano side art. I think they look stupid. Does Mordor even have more than one active volcano?

Yeah the volcano side art is out. The hobbit side art from tilt graphics looks better.

#3911 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Would like some LOTR owners opinions on side blades and rubbers. What side art does everyone like best? Do mirror blades or side art look better on this machine? For rubbers, I was thinking Titan translucent for the most part and black or red posts with red flipper rubbers?

SillyoldElf side art for the win.

#3912 1 year ago
Quoted from jetspeedb:

SillyoldElf side art for the win.

Correct!!!!

#3913 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Would like some LOTR owners opinions on side blades.

I happen to be partial to mirror blades, so I went with the golden mirror blades.

#3914 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Would like some LOTR owners opinions on side blades and rubbers. What side art does everyone like best? Do mirror blades or side art look better on this machine? For rubbers, I was thinking Titan translucent for the most part and black or red posts with red flipper rubbers?

I have Titan Competition Clear rubbers on mine except red flippers and red posts. I think it looks great.

#3915 1 year ago

Times a million! Being a huge fan of the books, these are the only blades that are good enough for my LOTR.

I only use perfect play colored rubbers from Pinball Life. For me it's the closest to the original feel of real rubber.

#3916 1 year ago
Quoted from jlbintn:

Extended attract mode in this game goes through the lore poem, and uses various parts of the playfield as it does it. It's cool, but I wouldn't leave it on.

Mine has been on since it was unboxed and no issues. Why would you think it stresses it?

#3917 1 year ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

I have Titan Competition Clear rubbers on mine except red flippers and red posts. I think it looks great.

Can you post a pic?

#3918 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I happen to be partial to mirror blades, so I went with the golden mirror blades.

Pic please!

#3919 1 year ago

I put the medium strength coils in my machine 2 days ago. Tonight I got deep into a game, and lit DTR. my left flipper was unable to make it more than halfway up the center ramp. Could this be a bad install? I've never had it feel that weak, and I've gotten further in game quite a few times.

Added 15 months ago:

This was not the fault of the medium strength coil at all. I was missing a contact on the left flipper button's leaf switch. The coils feel snappy and far better

#3920 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

I put the medium strength coils in my machine 2 days ago. Tonight I got deep into a game, and lit DTR. my left flipper was unable to make it more than halfway up the center ramp. Could this be a bad install? I've never had it feel that weak, and I've gotten further in game quite a few times.

Check your solder connections for sure. Also something else that really helped me was adjusting the spinner so it sat flush. Mine was tilted a little backwards and the ball would hit the bottom of the spinner first which slowed it down big time.

For reference; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mangled-lotr-spinner

#3921 1 year ago
Quoted from PapaKilo:

Check your solder connections for sure. Also something else that really helped me was adjusting the spinner so it sat flush. Mine was tilted a little backwards and the ball would hit the bottom of the spinner first which slowed it down big time.
For reference; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mangled-lotr-spinner

Yeah I've read about the spinner issue, this isn't the case here. Late in the game it was noticeably harder to hit from the left as opposed to the right. The left flipper was even having issues hitting the sword lock.

The flipper also has a buzz sometimes when you hold it down, now. Don't recall that issue before.

Added 15 months ago:

This was not the fault of the medium strength coil at all. I was missing a contact on the left flipper button's leaf switch. The coils feel snappy and far better

#3922 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

The flipper also has a buzz sometimes when you hold it down

My left flipper buzzes when held, the right one does not. I haven't looked into why yet.

#3923 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

My left flipper buzzes when held, the right one does not. I haven't looked into why yet.

I think that is common with a Stern? No big deal I believe....

#3924 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

My left flipper buzzes when held, the right one does not. I haven't looked into why yet.

Buzz when holding is normal

#3925 1 year ago

Make sure your flipper moves freely. Did you use a spacer during the install?

#3926 1 year ago

I know flipper buzz is normal, but isn't that a constant buzz? Mine gets louder the later in the game, and also seems to react to the flipper being hit with a ball.

I didn't use a spacer - I'll be tinkering today so I'll figure out what you mean and reinstall. Thanks!

#3927 1 year ago

Flipper buzz was discussed in the Metallica tread a while back -

Tightening the coil stop against the coil minimizes the buzz. You could also use a tie wrap going all the way around the coil, coil stop and bracket better pull the coil stop in and minimize it.

#3928 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

I didn't use a spacer - I'll be tinkering today so I'll figure out what you mean and reinstall.

chalkey is referring to a flipper spacer gauge used to create an 0.03 inch gap between the flipper bat and the flipper shaft bushing when tighting the flipper crank assembly. I use a credit card cut into shape but you can get one from Marco (instructions at the link too):

detail (resized).jpg

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194

#3929 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

chalkey is referring to a flipper spacer gauge used to create an 0.03 inch gap between the flipper bat and the flipper shaft bushing when tighting the flipper crank assembly. I use a credit card cut into shape but you can get one from Marco (instructions at the link too):
[quoted image]
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194

Gotcha. It shouldn't be a problem on mine, since I just replaced the coils, and didn't mess with the flippers or assemblies, right?

Since replacing them the flipper is definitely weaker than my old coils to start, and the ring shot is pretty much impossible after just a few minutes. My soldering isn't very good but I redid all my solder joints to be sure that wasn't the issue.

The right flipper isn't as weak, so I'm not really sure what's going on.

Added 15 months ago:

This was not the fault of the medium strength coil at all. I was missing a contact on the left flipper button's leaf switch. The coils feel snappy and far better

#3930 1 year ago

Ah, the old attack from the back coil replacement. Could be an alignment issue with your coil stop. Does it seem to move as freely as your other flipper? You can loosen the two coil stop screws and see if it has a little free play and get it centered.

#3931 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Ah, the old attack from the back coil replacement. Could be an alignment issue with your coil stop. Does it seem to move as freely as your other flipper? You can loosen the two coil stop screws and see if it has a little free play and get it centered.

Haha yep. Yeah I took the coil stop off and moved it a bit just before I saw your comment. I think it's working better now! I didn't have too much time to play with it, so I will have to confirm later. Thanks for the help

#3932 1 year ago

If not mechanical in nature, make sure your flipper EOS switches are gapped properly. They may need an adjustment now as well

#3933 1 year ago
Quoted from PinZig:

If not mechanical in nature, make sure your flipper EOS switches are gapped properly. They may need an adjustment now as well

That is something that I checked on mine but there are no EOS switches.

#3934 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

Gotcha. It shouldn't be a problem on mine, since I just replaced the coils, and didn't mess with the flippers or assemblies, right?

I sigh every time I read statements like this as the actual flipper coil is the LEAST likely part to fail in the entire flipper assembly. The coil is nothing more than a spool of copper wire, as such it has a specific resistance per foot which mean if it measures correctly then replacing it is pointless as the problem lies elsewhere.

The most common problem is its just dirty, but given the low cost of a flipper repair kit, if you are disassembling this for cleaning you may as well install a flipper rebuild kit. For some reason these kits don't contain the bushing which I also like to replace whenever I have this assembly out of the machine.

The only thing I do that is the same as the OP is I remove the coil stop to pull the coil from the assembly; however, I leave it in place and still soldered to the coil wiring harness. I then remove the EOS switch again leaving it connected to the wiring harness so that I can remove the rest of the flipper assembly from the playfield. These are the parts I actually clean and rebuild using a rebuild kit plus a new bushing.

#3935 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

That is something that I checked on mine but there are no EOS switches.

Here's a pic of my EOS switch. Yours doesn't have them? They should open in the last 1/8 inch of flipper travel.

20190302_162443 (resized).jpg
#3936 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

That is something that I checked on mine but there are no EOS switches.

Well, I feel like a block head. Yes, mine has EOS switches. Duh. Not sure where that picture in my mind came from.

#3937 1 year ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

Mine has been on since it was unboxed and no issues. Why would you think it stresses it?

I read it, and I can't remember where. It was just 3-4 weeks ago, about the time I was in the process of getting the NVRAM for the game. I knew that I would have to go through and reset the game once I pulled the batteries. The nature of what I read was that, as it applies to setting the game up for play, if your machine is used as a location machine, that option might want to be set to off.

It wasn't a pro or con type of thing, just a settings recommendation. And then I had the issue I discussed. The first thing I noticed when I realized something was wrong was not only the screen blank, but Barad-dur doing what it does during that extended attract skit. And the playfield was shut down as it gets when you have that setting on ON. The game has been fine since I set Extended Attract Mode to off.

#3938 1 year ago

Folks that made the POTD mod themselves, how did you attach the green led lights to the figures? Tape them on or drill them in the actual figure?

#3939 1 year ago

Drilled a hole in the back and hot glued mine in.

#3940 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Drilled a hole in the back and hot glued mine in.

Is there a kit you can buy? I have all of the AOME figures....just need the rest!

#3941 1 year ago
Quoted from red-line:

Any pics of the gold/orange buttons?
And are you sure about the spring? The lotr manual calls for part# 500-5026-32. When I Google that, it comes up with a no-spring version

Here is a pic:

Flipper Buttons (resized).JPG
#3942 1 year ago

Here is a pic of my mirror blades:

Mirror BLades (resized).JPG
#3943 1 year ago

When the ball gets kicked up with the path of the dead vuk, and going up the right ramp, does the ball hitting the side not damage the mirror blades?

Quoted from Lamprey:

Here is a pic of my mirror blades:[quoted image]

#3944 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Folks that made the POTD mod themselves, how did you attach the green led lights to the figures? Tape them on or drill them in the actual figure?

Matrix post light underneath with a screw up into the figure, holds everything together.
https://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm

#3945 1 year ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Matrix post light underneath with a screw up into the figure, holds everything together.
https://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm

Thanks. That’s exactly what I was looking for. I am assuming green is the color I want for these?

#3946 1 year ago
Quoted from jedi42:

When the ball gets kicked up with the path of the dead vuk, and going up the right ramp, does the ball hitting the side not damage the mirror blades?

It's an unfortunate game design, but hasn't damaged them yet.

#3947 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Thanks. That’s exactly what I was looking for. I am assuming green is the color I want for these?

Yes, green is what I used. I did not use the brown base for the King but did for the other 2 figures. Because of this I did not need all 4 lights on the King's post light and per a suggestion from Comet just broke two of the lights off. I know, it did not seem like the best solution at the time but it ended up working out. I did cut some small holes in the brown base of the other 2 to let the light shine up. Those wires need to be taped snug underneath to avoid the ball getting stuck.
POTD Above (resized).JPGPOTD Under (resized).jpg

#3948 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Folks that made the POTD mod themselves, how did you attach the green led lights to the figures? Tape them on or drill them in the actual figure?

I used hot glue but one of mine fell off, so I re-attached that one with Earthquake Putty. Been fine since. The other two are still on strong with the hot glue.

#3949 1 year ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Thanks. That’s exactly what I was looking for. I am assuming green is the color I want for these?

Comet recently released a UV version of their post light that I plan on using. The AOTD figures are UV reactive so it should give them a good ghostly glow.

#3950 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Is there a kit you can buy? I have all of the AOME figures....just need the rest!

Did you finally pull the trigger on the game?

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