Hey all,
I’m exploring some passive cooling options for my flipper coils. Anyone try anything like this? I bought 100 on ebay.

They’re self adhesive computer chip heat sinks. I guess my question is do I stick them to the wrapper? Does the wrapper need to be there? What if the aluminum touched the wire in the coil (is that wire insulated anyway?)

0F3094D0-B539-4CD1-B6EC-EDE2104A9647 (resized).jpeg

I can’t tell if you’re joking . If you’re not I’d think that applying them to the wrapper would have limited effect, you’d want to be write on the metal to have it actually be able to pull heat off the coils rather than pull heat off the wrapper. I’d also think the vibration of the unit would knock these things free in no time... can’t they no of any harm in trying though... you’ll need to cover the thing in heat sinks to move the needle though.

Totally serious. Except the typo that said cooking instead of cooling

I do intend to pretty much wrap the coil in them. And put a small zip tie for mechanical locking.

Main question is if there were any aluminum contacting the actual wires of the coil (if I took the wrapper off) would that short something? The coil wire is insulated or it would just short across itself anyway, right?

I put fans on my last lotr to keep the coils from fading in long games. Seemed to work but it was a PITA and always coming apart.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cooling-flipper-coils-by-aluminium-heat-sinks-or-pc-fans

It’s a thing... who knew? sorry to doubt you. Lots of good info in the link from Neal_W. I knew of the different coils and people adding fans, had heard the heat sink thoughts before.

You're right on with the rubber idea - I have clear silicon in mine with red/black posts, and it looks perfect. I went with the shiny gold flipper bats from PBL with red silicon rubber, and I think it looks amazing.

I think we might have the exact same setup!

Mine came with volcano side art. I think they look stupid. Does Mordor even have more than one active volcano?

SillyoldElf side art for the win.

Correct!!!!

I happen to be partial to mirror blades, so I went with the golden mirror blades.

I have Titan Competition Clear rubbers on mine except red flippers and red posts. I think it looks great.

Times a million! Being a huge fan of the books, these are the only blades that are good enough for my LOTR.

I only use perfect play colored rubbers from Pinball Life. For me it's the closest to the original feel of real rubber.

Mine has been on since it was unboxed and no issues. Why would you think it stresses it?

Can you post a pic?

Pic please!

This was not the fault of the medium strength coil at all. I was missing a contact on the left flipper button's leaf switch. The coils feel snappy and far better

Check your solder connections for sure. Also something else that really helped me was adjusting the spinner so it sat flush. Mine was tilted a little backwards and the ball would hit the bottom of the spinner first which slowed it down big time.

For reference; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mangled-lotr-spinner

This was not the fault of the medium strength coil at all. I was missing a contact on the left flipper button's leaf switch. The coils feel snappy and far better

My left flipper buzzes when held, the right one does not. I haven't looked into why yet.

I think that is common with a Stern? No big deal I believe....

Buzz when holding is normal

Make sure your flipper moves freely. Did you use a spacer during the install?

I know flipper buzz is normal, but isn't that a constant buzz? Mine gets louder the later in the game, and also seems to react to the flipper being hit with a ball.

I didn't use a spacer - I'll be tinkering today so I'll figure out what you mean and reinstall. Thanks!

Flipper buzz was discussed in the Metallica tread a while back -

Tightening the coil stop against the coil minimizes the buzz. You could also use a tie wrap going all the way around the coil, coil stop and bracket better pull the coil stop in and minimize it.

Chalkey is referring to a flipper spacer gauge used to create an 0.03 inch gap between the flipper bat and the flipper shaft bushing when tighting the flipper crank assembly. I use a credit card cut into shape but you can get one from Marco (instructions at the link too):

detail (resized).jpg

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194

This was not the fault of the medium strength coil at all. I was missing a contact on the left flipper button's leaf switch. The coils feel snappy and far better

Ah, the old attack from the back coil replacement. Could be an alignment issue with your coil stop. Does it seem to move as freely as your other flipper? You can loosen the two coil stop screws and see if it has a little free play and get it centered.

Haha yep. Yeah I took the coil stop off and moved it a bit just before I saw your comment. I think it's working better now! I didn't have too much time to play with it, so I will have to confirm later. Thanks for the help

If not mechanical in nature, make sure your flipper EOS switches are gapped properly. They may need an adjustment now as well

That is something that I checked on mine but there are no EOS switches.

I sigh every time I read statements like this as the actual flipper coil is the LEAST likely part to fail in the entire flipper assembly. The coil is nothing more than a spool of copper wire, as such it has a specific resistance per foot which mean if it measures correctly then replacing it is pointless as the problem lies elsewhere.

The most common problem is its just dirty, but given the low cost of a flipper repair kit, if you are disassembling this for cleaning you may as well install a flipper rebuild kit. For some reason these kits don't contain the bushing which I also like to replace whenever I have this assembly out of the machine.

The only thing I do that is the same as the OP is I remove the coil stop to pull the coil from the assembly; however, I leave it in place and still soldered to the coil wiring harness. I then remove the EOS switch again leaving it connected to the wiring harness so that I can remove the rest of the flipper assembly from the playfield. These are the parts I actually clean and rebuild using a rebuild kit plus a new bushing.

Here's a pic of my EOS switch. Yours doesn't have them? They should open in the last 1/8 inch of flipper travel.

20190302_162443 (resized).jpg

Well, I feel like a block head. Yes, mine has EOS switches. Duh. Not sure where that picture in my mind came from.

I read it, and I can't remember where. It was just 3-4 weeks ago, about the time I was in the process of getting the NVRAM for the game. I knew that I would have to go through and reset the game once I pulled the batteries. The nature of what I read was that, as it applies to setting the game up for play, if your machine is used as a location machine, that option might want to be set to off.

It wasn't a pro or con type of thing, just a settings recommendation. And then I had the issue I discussed. The first thing I noticed when I realized something was wrong was not only the screen blank, but Barad-dur doing what it does during that extended attract skit. And the playfield was shut down as it gets when you have that setting on ON. The game has been fine since I set Extended Attract Mode to off.

Drilled a hole in the back and hot glued mine in.

Is there a kit you can buy? I have all of the AOME figures....just need the rest!

Here is a pic:

Flipper Buttons (resized).JPG

Here is a pic of my mirror blades:

Mirror BLades (resized).JPG

When the ball gets kicked up with the path of the dead vuk, and going up the right ramp, does the ball hitting the side not damage the mirror blades?

Matrix post light underneath with a screw up into the figure, holds everything together.
https://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm

It's an unfortunate game design, but hasn't damaged them yet.

Yes, green is what I used. I did not use the brown base for the King but did for the other 2 figures. Because of this I did not need all 4 lights on the King's post light and per a suggestion from Comet just broke two of the lights off. I know, it did not seem like the best solution at the time but it ended up working out. I did cut some small holes in the brown base of the other 2 to let the light shine up. Those wires need to be taped snug underneath to avoid the ball getting stuck.
POTD Above (resized).JPGPOTD Under (resized).jpg

I used hot glue but one of mine fell off, so I re-attached that one with Earthquake Putty. Been fine since. The other two are still on strong with the hot glue.

Comet recently released a UV version of their post light that I plan on using. The AOTD figures are UV reactive so it should give them a good ghostly glow.

Did you finally pull the trigger on the game?