Hi there.

New to the club (and the hobby in general) and LOTR is one of 2 machines I own.

Wondering if anyone else has this on their machine:

My Merry orbit, when coming towards the flippers, is such that it will throw the ball directly between both flippers and requires nudging every time in order to save the ball. I've checked my levels multiple times to ensure that's not a factor. Some times it looks as if it hits the "spot ring" target, though other times not -- either way it ends up with the same result (and as such think its not actually hitting that target edge).

Is this common on all machines? I'm thinking it shouldn't require nudging every_ time should it?

I wouldn't overthink this. Bad flipper cabinet switches can make a big difference. Replace the cabinet switch with a good new one and see if the problem goes away. From what it sounds like, your flipper cabinet switch seems suspect.

I had a whitestar game once that would flip strong, then barely flip at times, filed down the switch contacts and it flipped 100%.

P21S Carnauba comes in Blue Lid (Cheaper) and Silver Lid (More expensive) versions. Carnauba concentrations are supposedly higher in the Silver version.

Duplicate post.......

This.

Seriously. It's probably this.

I thought with the transistors they either work or they don't? They shouldn't show the type of symptoms that he is experiencing.

That's what I've been told by long time hobbyists, anyhow.

I suppose a cold solder joint on one of the transistors might cause this type of behaviour, but I don't think the transistor itself would be failing.

Definitely not normal. You should never have to nudge it. It should feed the right flipper.

Sounds like you've got an issue with your guide rail or spot target. Some pics might help. Or slo-mo video if possible.

He needs to adjust the position of the spot ring target. Mine had that problem out of the box. The ball can hit the edge of the target and shift it towards SDTM (between the flippers).

Thanks -- I'll try to adjust this first and see how it goes.

For sure. I had the same problem. I couldn’t adjust mine enough. Actually had to trim the target itself. I put a little bevel on it. No problems since

Looks great!

This is all you will ever need:

https://www.pinballlife.com/blitz-carnauba-paste-wax-12-ounce-jar.html

Vid recommends it, and pretty much everyone that uses it, swears by it.

I agree, the stuff is great. But I bought the really small jar and it has lasted me for years.

I use Mother's Pure Brazilian Carnauba Gold. Best of the best.

Possibly - A dirty/bad flipper switch will make a blip-blip poor connection when pressed, which looks like multiple presses and the circuit goes from high flip power to low hold power too soon. (a phenomenon seen on WPC pins with the flipper button optos that are dirty or failing)

That's the only thing I use, all you need is a tiny bit and it lasts a long time.

The plastic bit that connects to the Gimli VUK assembly popped out. The assembly drawing in the manual doesn't appear to include this part. How is it attached? It looks just like an inch-long whiteish plastic cylinder.

Also, this happened literally 30 minutes after I finalized an order from pinballlife. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

This is the replacement:
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-plunger-with-nylon-extension.html

Sorry to ask this question again, as I remember having read about it a long while ago, but this thread is now 74 pages.

I'm having the DTR issue where even after 7 or 8 ring shots, the balls either bounce out or just cycle through without registering. It's inconsistent, as last night my wife grabbed the DTR championship by completing it in 49 seconds. I've tested the magnet, and I've taken the glass off and it seems to work fine.... however, more often than not when playing, I've got to hit the ring shot 7 or 8 times to complete the mode, and the ball seams to just fly past the magnet. No issues when starting normal ring modes (magnet grabs the ball fine).

Any explanation? Link to relevant post would be appreciated.

Thankfully I was able to adjust the target without trimming it, but after removing and reinstalling the target multiple times before I got it just right... I was getting nervous I might have to.

The right orbit now goes direct to the right flipper! Thanks for the advice.

Make sure your spinner and optos are registering.

It’s up an running
Great game

D2513EBF-6E87-407E-8FC2-D26C141188EA.jpeg

I suspect my ring magnet is not working. I've gone into the LOTR features menu and selected ring test. The spinner and both switches are triggering. I've tried both "Grab and Hold" and "Grab and Throw" but the magnet is not grabbing the ball. How are these tests supposed to work? I don't see any obvious loose wires. What else can I check? This is a HUO machine with only a few hundred plays so it seems unlikely that the magnet would have failed.

There is a fuse for the magnet that is very often blown, check that. I think F20 on the Driver Board. Been a while but I think that was it.

Make sure the interlock switch is pulled if the coin door is open so you will have coil power. Also check the fuse for the ring magnet.

Okay, I made sure the coin door was closed and also checked the F20 fuse, which is good, along with all the others. I assume that after spinning the spinner, the magnet should come on and if I manually place the ball in the ring it should grab it...correct? I've tried this using the LOTR test and manually by trying it with the glass off. Is there anything else that I could be missing or should I order a new magnet? If so, where can I get one?

I assume you mean the spinner switch is working in switch test when you say it is triggering when you spin the spinner.

The other things to check are the magnet itself and the magnet transistor Q6.

Yes, the spinner switch is working. How do you check if a transistor is working? Do you know what the voltage of the magnet is supposed to be? I assume that I can hook it up to a power source and check it that way?

With the game off, Put your meter on ohms and see what the resistance is between the terminals of the magnet. I am guessing it should be around 3 or 4 ohms.

Also, the F20 fuse, take it out and measure it with the ohm setting to make sure it is reading zero if you have not already done so. A visual check will often not show the blown fuse and leaving it in the game to test it with the meter will often result in a false reading of good.

When the magnet is on it should be getting about 50 V DC.

It appears that the magnet has a connector with two black wires, which was not easy to find. The ohm reading is 3.4 on the two terminals. I assume that means the magnet is good. How do I check the transistor?

I apologize for being a n00b. I've done simple repairs like replacing bulbs and adding mods but this is all new to me

Probably would be good idea to see if the 50 V DC is there next:

Just joined the club!

The machine I picked up has Jay's palantir, led ocd, lcd dmd, lots of figs, an LED strip under the potd, the one ring shooter rod, some side blade art, and a gold coin door.

It also looks like it has the medium strength coils installed. The model numbers match but it doesn't say "LOTR" like I've seen on some.

I feel like the balrog should light up - am I imagining that?

PS. I read through this whole thread over the last few weeks while I waited for the machine

PPS. Sean astin, Billy Boyd, and JRD signatures on the translite!

There is a light inside. Mine was out out when I received mine and I had no idea there was one even in there! lol.

Welcome to the club!!

Yes, there was a service bulletin regarding the early type LED flasher used in the Balrog. Marco has the kit.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5022-00

It should, and it could be the light or the wiring harness. Over the years the constant opening/closing of Balrog can cause some of the wires in the wiring harness to break, causing the bulb not to light or the switch not to register.

Ahh. Thanks. Is the wiring harness below the playfield?

Hi i should have added this a long time ago. I can provide the chips if you want to update to a shaker. I can offer a special price on a package. 10.02 cpu , 10.0 display u213 gold dot pal and bios 8 update chip for $32 plus shipping. I can also provide the chips singly. I am rompingirl on ebay and have been supplying programmed parts for twenty years. I also have the display and sound pal chips for this game.

It plugs in under the playfield, but travels up thru a hole into Balrog. Pinball Heaven in the UK makes a replacement, or you could make your own.

Is there an easy way to see if a balrog led kit has been installed? I tried to check last night, and got as far as taking the 2 screws out of the side of the balrog. I couldn't get the toy off from there so I gave up. I was scared I was gonna break it on my first night w the table lol.

Only good way I know of to check Balrog is to uninstall him. Just some screws, posts, and spacers, along with a plastic for access, with the wire harness going thru the playfield. Take your time and plenty of pics, you'll be fine.

Would the medium strength coils always say LOTR on them? Mine read 090-5020-20T but don't say LOTR. Just wondering if these are the medium or high-strength coils. Post transfers are pretty much impossible, I suppose thats normal?

Those are the stock coils, neither medium nor high strength.

You should be able to post transfer.

I just got mine this weekend, matt mckee topper, color dmd, sadly damaged the art blades fixing the balrog but will eventually get the gold mirror blades anyways. Few other mods, pf is super nice, cab isn't bad. Thing is already debating swapping it out for an le to go next to my avatar le.

You might want to watch the recent Buffalo Pinball LOTR review before deciding to do that - You'll never be able to not see something!

Perhaps, but these have that label as well: https://www.pinballlife.com/lotr-special-flipper-coil-090-5020-2ot.html

Aren't these the 'high power' coils people refer to? I've got these and they're a bit overpowered in my game.