Looks like a beauty. Congrats!

Ahhhh, the shooter and the Shire......... nice!

I can't believe how much I missed this game after I sold my first one. I swore that I would track down a mint LE to replace it. Nearly two years later and the quest for the greatest machine ever is complete.

image.jpg

That's a great looking apron.

Thats a sweet apron! How long ago did you sell your first LOTR and how long did you have it for? Im about 90% locked in on a trade right now that involves me making the journey back to Valinor. It will be my 2nd LOTR.

I had it for almost two years and sold it almost two years ago. I didn't even get to TABA while I owned it. I borrowed one a while back and got to TABA within about three games as I am improving all the time as a player and had gotten a lot better on other games in the meantime. Now I feel I can grasp what it takes to get Valinor and that is part of owning it again now. And deep down I think selling the first one was maybe an excuse to let me upgrade to a collector quality LE example as well.

That is almost exactly what I did. Two years owning it, sold it, and then two years later got a nice copy. And since having it for a week or so I played TABA for the first time, and I have completed Fellowship Multiball for the very first time. I'm really playing the heck out of the modes now as I try to finish them.

And my favorite playing event so far was playing "Escape the Ringwraiths", and I completed the last shot up the ramp and just stared at the color DMD as the wave of water went up, and the ball came right down the sword and right into the trough because I was so amazed I finished it that I forgot to flip.

I'm also playing with a different strategy. Like I am trying to start Gollum Multiball when Two Towers multiball is ready. My odds of completing TTT increase dramatically with all 4 balls in play (each stage needs 21 jackpots, so a triple jackpot advances three times faster towards completion of the multiball than a single jackpot). And just writing that boggles my mind of how great the rules are in this game.

I used to save Gollumm multiball for after TTT. That way, if you drain to one ball on TTT and are quick you can restart it using Gollum MB. Very handy for ROTK multiball since that one is harder to complete.

Escape the ringwraiths has always been one of my favorite modes of the game and in all of pinball. So simple; but the call outs, sequence, and dmd make it one of the best.

Mode-wise, I find Witch King the most challenging by far. I've only completed it once so far. But when I did, the animations and sounds were a cool surprise. Hope to see/hear them again soon...

Yeah in terms of the modes Witch King is by far the most difficult, for me I'd rank them (easiest to hardest)

War of the Ents
Shelob
Warg Battle
Ringwraiths
Gandalf & Saurman
Witch King

Really enjoy them bar the Witch King one, the combo's are a pain to get unless you can stack with a multiball. Still yet to reach There and Back Again but love this pin more than any other I've had

I don't even attempt Witchking anymore. Because of the difficulty, there's just too much risk for too little reward, once you factor in the probability of actually completing the mode. I just activate it en route to TABA and then keep working towards other goals.

So I'm in the club boys with an LE! Pics to come but question on the LE code; when I owned the original LOTR (not on LE code), I remember rotk MB lighting all the inserts for all 4 shots. On the LE, the right shots arrow is lit, the right ramp arrow and one ring is lit, the gandalf shot is arrow and 2 rings, and the left ramp is the arrow and all 3 rings. Is this right? I'm guessing Keefer added something in the LE code to keep track of rotk progression? Either that or my memory is real bad hah!

Side note: gotta say FOTR MB has to be one of the best mbs in all of pinball!

I noticed the right loop arrow goes out during Sheldon and TTT MB so I'm thinking it's an issue with how the LEDs react to the code? I replaced the bank of LEDs on the right loop and right ramp shots but still same issue. So either it's a code issue or I need to replace all the LEDs or it's an issue with the game itself.

Not 100% sure if i get your question, but the lit rings (=multipliers: 0,1,2,3) is the order in which you need to shoot the jackpots to progress the multipliers in the next level (again 0,1,2,3 Rings will be lit but this time they will count as 2x,3x,4x,5x jackpots if the first level was played in order, etc.). I think it's always been that way, nothing new added for the LE.

I've got LEDs in mine and the right loop arrow stays lit in TTT and Shelob (guessing you don't mean Sheldon) until i hit them.

So went into lamp test and appears to be the issue with the game. If someone can do me a favor and go into lamp test > row > and tell me what lamps are lit for row#2 and #3 I'd appreciate it.

EDIT: and merry arrow and man ring don't light in lamp test but do in normal game. So gonna diagnose a bit.

EDIT2: don't need row#2 or #3; confirmed that it's correct with my game and wiring schematic.

So I think I found the culprit. Either bad connection or bad LED. All inserts are working normal in all regular modes now. But rotk MB is still weird but I think it's normal honestly and I just don't remember there being a light pattern.

i think this answers my question! So four shots during rotk MB; one will have 0 rings lit, one will have 1 ring, another 2 rings, and the last 3!?! I could have sworn when I owned LOTR from 2006-2012ish it didn't do this but I could be having a huge brain fart. My guess is it is part of the LE code and since most standard LOTRs have the LE rom now it wasn't noticed? Either that or it's just my memory acting up.

But bottom line, I'm 100% running!

EDIT: btw thanks someone else for the explanation for rotk!

I had a light issue, decided I'd play a quick game to make sure it was working again, ball 1 and 2 went down quick, 3 and a couple extra balls, did everything except ROTK, had 3-4 levels of this left... grr, as always. Almost trip #3, but honestly I've been at the same place probably 20 times before with everything qualified except ROTK. I played it 4 times too...

Of note, another thing never talked about, but never ever cash out on Ring Frenzie early, complete all rings first THEN hit the ring, as you max the points, but also get a extra ball.

Today was the first time I think I have ever done the same for Super Ring Frenzie, and scored 20M twice doing this.

Now that I'm up and running. Here's some LOTR porn:

image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg

I .......... may have to brass my apron

Goddamnit people, quite posting pictures of cool things!

Hah! This brass apron is bitching. It's pinball refinerys. The eye inserts on the apron pulse Amber in balrog sequences and it pulses red during ring modes.

Just joined the club! Put the ColorDMD in last night.

Eskaybee, that Apron is amazing.

I need to show you guys some granny porn pics of my rough shooter lane, worn shire, and smooth heels of the lockdown bar. Hey, just because it's well used doesn't mean it doesn't have sweet action!

Hah! That's funny shit right there.

Is there any tweaks or fixed for the gandalf shot? Mine gives a klunky return from the right side. I seem to remember every LOTR I've played had this klunk like feeling on that shot.

Hi all,

I need some guidance on an issue with the Loop Diverter (coil #8 mechanism) on my LOTR.
The Loop Diverter opens successfully (tested through diagnostics menu) but does not close.
It is stuck in the open position unless I manually push it back in place. There isn't much resistance when pushing the diverter back and the spring that should pull the loop diverter closed *seems* fine but obviously not strong enough to close it on it's own. I'm not sure if there is an additional release or if the coil should force the diverter to close. This isn't obvious from my limited testing.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks - Jay

loop_div_top.jpg

loop_div_bot.jpg

There nothing that pulls the diverter back other than the spring. You say there is not much resistance when moving it by hand, but it really should be more like zero resistance. Looks like possibly the shaft(just like a flipper shaft) needs a little more free play(intentional slop). Partially loosen the set screw that clamps onto the shaft and push the shaft up towards the top side a small amount, like 1/2 to 1 mm. Then re-tighten the set screw. If this doesn't correct the problem, I would try cutting off about 1/8 to 1/4 of the spring so that it pulls harder.

You were right - it was the set screw that clamps onto the shaft head. It was too tight (I had tried loosening it prior to posting, but it wouldn't budge and I was concerned about breaking or stripping it). After the confirmation that the spring should pull the diverter back easily, I put more pressure on loosening the screw and as soon as it turned slightly, the diverter closed on it's own (with the springs help of course).

A very big thank you LOTR_breath!

Cheers,

Jay

You might try just tweaking the level of the game. Slightly steeper/flatter and left/right. Mine is not 100% consistent but is pretty smooth.

Don't let him fool you guys! I've seen Hougie's "granny" LOTR pin and it's one fine looking lady!

Just got a LOTR last week and I must say - it is one fun game! Looking forward to many years of playing with family and friends. Put in a ColorDMD on this HUO badboy and it looks and plays fantastic.

congrats TB I was hoping it you who picked this awesome Precious up..Welcome back your first one says to say Hi...Enjoy!!

Thanks man. All is good in the universe again!! Funny thing, it's a whole different experience a couple years down the track. I'm settling in to a Valinor approach program this time, as I am a better player and now see it is within the realms of possibility. So much fun to be actually going after the goals properly with a view to actually completing it. Hope you're still enjoying your beauty!

Yeah TB going great guns down here, still very far from Valinor finally got to TABA the other week but bricked it just as it got going which was shame but I will be there an back again, finished the all the multiballs but never in the same game so seriously a while off, but maybe by the time im 60 I might get there if im lucky..sure i'll see your progress .. keep us posted.. hope alls well!!!cheers...

Just joined the club

image.jpgimage.jpg

"You can have my sword..."

You have my Axe!

You need people with intelligence on this massive..quest..thing..

If this is indeed the will of the Council, then Gondor will see it done

Gather the 9..

Hi guys, I am officially in the club after driving 15 hours to trade my beautiful Family Guy for a LOTR in very good shape. I so can't wait to destroy the ring for the first time. One quick question, is the soul ramp in the top left supposed to tilt in the direction of the flippers? Mine is stationary, not a huge deal though.

Thanks, and I am very proud to be part of the club!

Anyone have pics or a video of the colorDMD in it?

Thank you so much Sky, I am going to put that on my Christmas list.

It's stationary. You nudge for results. Not like IJ POA.

You want one

Thanks Time, that makes sense. Free nudge practice is a good thing.

The wall is breached..

Mind the Warg!

Figured I'd post this here too in case a LOTR owner knew the answer.

I recently purchased a LOTR standard edition. The seller told me the sub was working then he moved to his new house and when he set LOTR up the speakers were working but the sub was not anymore. So I did know this when I purchased it now I'm just trying to trouble shoot the problem. Also in case it's relevant to the issue, the previous owner also had an external powered sub hooked up to LOTR while the sub was still working. This is what I have tried so far.

1) checked the wire for a break, there was none
2) reflowed the solder to the speaker & sub connector on CPU board
3) changed the female connector for the speakers on the CPU board
4) pulled sub out of LOTR and tested it in another machine, the sub works fine
5) connected a Polk audio sub to the sub wires in LOTR and no sound from the sub, so no power going through the sub wires?

Can someone familiar with white star boards please help me and let me know what the next step would be in solving this issue. Thanks in advance.