(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by beltking
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There are 10,198 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 204.
#2551 6 years ago
Quoted from hawknole:

OK, I need some help please. I replaced my Shire Y switch with a new switch because the metal Y broke off. I was attempting to adjust the old switch as it was not responding. The new switch worked fine for a couple games and then no response. I fiddled with it a little then got some intermittent response and now back to nothing. Bad switch or something else and if so what? I reseated the closest connector as well.

test with your hand first... also make sure you aren't over tightening the screws as that will cause the switch to bind.

test with finger... then adjust the rotation of the switch when mounted to ensure the armature moves enough to make the switch click. bend forks if needed to get more travel.

#2552 6 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

I'd check the solder joints on your new switch. Maybe you have a cold spot or the connection is bad.

Quoted from flynnibus:

test with your hand first... also make sure you aren't over tightening the screws as that will cause the switch to bind.
test with finger... then adjust the rotation of the switch when mounted to ensure the armature moves enough to make the switch click. bend forks if needed to get more travel.

Much appreciated, I will check all that. Thank you.....a few hours later...I pulled out the switch, resoldered one of the joints as it looked less than optimal by me and screwed the switch back in snug but not too tight. Tested the switch manually and played a couple games, good to go, thanks again.

#2553 6 years ago
Quoted from hawknole:

OK, I need some help please. I replaced my Shire Y switch with a new switch because the metal Y broke off. I was attempting to adjust the old switch as it was not responding. The new switch worked fine for a couple games and then no response. I fiddled with it a little then got some intermittent response and now back to nothing. Bad switch or something else and if so what? I reseated the closest connector as well.

Make sure to not over-tighten the little bolts that hold the switch on the bracket. If they are over-tightened then the internal mechanical parts cannot move properly because the plastic casing of the switch compresses a little and restricts the movement.

#2554 6 years ago

Anyone know a US distributor that has the gold balls?

Screenshot_20180312-141018.pngScreenshot_20180312-141018.png

#2556 6 years ago

2 came out okay but a little spotty. 2 some of it wiped off. Gonna try again tomorrow with more pennies

IMG_20180313_013050.jpgIMG_20180313_013050.jpg

#2557 6 years ago

worth any penny

#2558 6 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

test with your hand first... also make sure you aren't over tightening the screws as that will cause the switch to bind.
test with finger... then adjust the rotation of the switch when mounted to ensure the armature moves enough to make the switch click. bend forks if needed to get more travel.

Thank you so much! I had the screws too tight. This issue has caused me 6 months of intermittent craziness.

#2559 6 years ago

So I replaced this switch with the Star Trek one. It passed the switch test, by now the gimli coil sets of a malfunction. It pumps up several times.

What did it do? Reverse wires? Only reconnected wires to the switch. Didn’t pay attention to that, by figured If passed the switch test it was fine.
Help.

#2560 6 years ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

So I replaced this switch with the Star Trek one. It passed the switch test, by now the gimli coil sets of a malfunction. It pumps up several times.
What did it do? Reverse wires? Only reconnected wires to the switch. Didn’t pay attention to that, by figured If passed the switch test it was fine.
Help.

Did you test switch with coin door open? That kills power to coils. Sounds like wires are reversed or diode on backwards.

#2561 6 years ago

Okay I’ll unsolder and switch wires. There was no diode in there before....

#2562 6 years ago

Just had the wires the wrong way. Needed to adjust the switch a bit so it would trigger better, but I believe I have it back to normal.....thanks to you all.

Now I have to figure out if I can replace inserts with LED without getting any ghosting...looking like no after I replaced 3 green ones (2 outer lanes) and the green lock light.

#2563 6 years ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Just had the wires the wrong way. Needed to adjust the switch a bit so it would trigger better, but I believe I have it back to normal.....thanks to you all.
Now I have to figure out if I can replace inserts with LED without getting any ghosting...looking like no after I replaced 3 green ones (2 outer lanes) and the green lock light.

Lotr is bad with ghosting. Get an led ocd board and it will solve that problem.

#2564 6 years ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Just had the wires the wrong way. Needed to adjust the switch a bit so it would trigger better, but I believe I have it back to normal.....thanks to you all.
Now I have to figure out if I can replace inserts with LED without getting any ghosting...looking like no after I replaced 3 green ones (2 outer lanes) and the green lock light.

Quoted from Lermods:

Lotr is bad with ghosting. Get an led ocd board and it will solve that problem.

LED OCD and GIZmo are a MUST if LED'ing a LOTR!!!! It will look fantastic when done!!

#2565 6 years ago

I just ordered the OCD LED board..but what is gizmo?

#2566 6 years ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

I just ordered the OCD LED board..but what is gizmo?

Basically it's LED OCD for non-color changing GI on SAM/Whitestar systems: http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=19

#2567 6 years ago

Is it okay with just the Ocd board?

#2568 6 years ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Is it okay with just the Ocd board?

I never tried GI LEDs without GIzmo, however just read the Club LED OCD thread for more detailed opinions on it. From what I remember is that it offers a subtle improvement, but some have gone without on some pins based upon how it

#2569 6 years ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Is it okay with just the Ocd board?

Yes, gi is fine as it is, at least for me. It’s the inserts that have issues.

#2570 6 years ago

Is there anyone using a sdb004 from rottendog in their lord
My driver is not so pretty, and i'm considering the swap.

For the fun, i found my lord recently, don't know its history but surely a working machine for location.
I was testing coils, and found that diverter near orthanc was not moving.
In fact, the machine was never updated, following service bulletins, and the specific sb147 was never done.
That means that no one before did Destroy the ring on this machine, as the gandalf loop could not be made, going to orthanc was the sole shot..

So luckily me, i will be the first one to destroy this ring

#2571 6 years ago

I was thinking of selling my LOTR that I bought new in ‘03, but the last 1000 or so posts have insipired me to keep it. I’m the guy who poked out his ring insert by cleaning it. I’m going to swap in this playfield as soon as I find the time:

https://swampfire.smugmug.com/ForSale/LOTR-Playfield/n-g7twNk/i-nxdp5N5/A

The color is slightly off, but the registration is great on this one.

#2572 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

have insipired me to keep it

Glad to hear it! Playing your LOTR was what inspired me to get mine.

#2573 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I’m going to swap in this playfield as soon as I find the time

The colors look good to me. If your missing any disassembly photos or need anything checked here, don't hesitate to ask.

#2574 6 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Is there anyone using a sdb004 from rottendog in their lord
My driver is not so pretty, and i'm considering the swap.

I've got the Rottendog board and it works well. I had a lamp matrix short-issue and the sdb004 reproduced the behavior exactly.
The only issue I noticed is the spacing between connectors were 'off' by a few millimeters so mods dependent on perfect connector spacing (like the pinduino) won't fit.

#2575 6 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

I've got the Rottendog board and it works well. I had a lamp matrix short-issue and the sdb004 reproduced the behavior exactly.

Good to know, thanks

#2576 6 years ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Is it okay with just the Ocd board?

Yes . Gizmo is really for games with fading GI light effects. Not needed on LOTR

#2577 6 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Yes . Gizmo is really for games with fading GI light effects. Not needed on LOTR

Agreed. And LED OCD is a must and really makes the game look much better! I'm a big fan. Just installed it recently on my LOTR.

#2578 6 years ago

I always thought the GI faded on this game. When I bought my 2nd LOTR it had a full LED conversion with no LED OCD board. The GI in-line near the shooter lane looked so horrible because it was supposed to fade in and out but really just flickered with LED's. I removed all the LED's in favor of incandescent bulbs and I truly love that look on LOTR. The warm glow of old-school bulbs is certainly my favorite for this particular game. I'm now on my 3rd, and it's all incadescent except for the backboard lighting and color-changers in "mode start" and behind the Palantir.

#2579 6 years ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

I always thought the GI faded on this game. When I bought my 2nd LOTR it had a full LED conversion with no LED OCD board. The GI in-line near the shooter lane looked so horrible because it was supposed to fade in and out but really just flickered with LED's. I removed all the LED's in favor of incandescent bulbs and I truly love that look on LOTR. The warm glow of old-school bulbs is certainly my favorite for this particular game. I'm now on my 3rd, and it's all incadescent except for the backboard lighting and color-changers in "mode start" and behind the Palantir.

I agree. I led all my games, usually in a CT kit so it’s a nice clean look. Except lotr. Looks soooo damn good in incandescents.

#2580 6 years ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

I always thought the GI faded on this game. When I bought my 2nd LOTR it had a full LED conversion with no LED OCD board. The GI in-line near the shooter lane looked so horrible because it was supposed to fade in and out but really just flickered with LED's. I removed all the LED's in favor of incandescent bulbs and I truly love that look on LOTR. The warm glow of old-school bulbs is certainly my favorite for this particular game. I'm now on my 3rd, and it's all incadescent except for the backboard lighting and color-changers in "mode start" and behind the Palantir.

Quoted from northvibe:

I agree. I led all my games, usually in a CT kit so it’s a nice clean look. Except lotr. Looks soooo damn good in incandescents.

IMO it looks just as good, if not better since it's a bit brighter, in LED Warm Whites with LED OCD for the inserts & GIzmo for the GI.....I really need to take some video of it in Attract mode. May do that tonight.....

#2581 6 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

IMO it looks just as good, if not better since it's a bit brighter, in LED Warm Whites with LED OCD for the inserts & GIzmo for the GI.....I really need to take some video of it in Attract mode. May do that tonight.....

Yeah, if I did the comet warm reto led I would HAVE to have the ocd board..the fading effects are fantastic in the game.

#2582 6 years ago

Hi everyone. I just managed to get a set of the LOTR figurines that were not installed on the LE version. Are there any guides available on how AND where to fit them? The user manual is not very clear. Thanks.

#2583 6 years ago

Does anyone have before and after video of the LED OCD?

#2584 6 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Does anyone have before and after video of the LED OCD?

I don't have a video but I'll add another vote to assure you the improvement is very significant. For LOTR in particular, with the sort of lighting effects it employs, it's a big deal. It improves the 'feel' of the game. Adding pinsound was the next best upgrade for this game IMHO.

#2585 6 years ago

I converted my GI to warm white frosted to get a bit more light, but all of my inserts are still incandescent.

#2586 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I converted my GI to warm white frosted to get a bit more light, but all of my inserts are still incandescent.

Do the lights near the shooter lane flicker instead of fading?

#2587 6 years ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Do the lights near the shooter lane flicker instead of fading?

I’ll check when I’m back from TPF, but if they did I probably used incs there. I have a very low tolerance for LED flicker.

#2588 6 years ago

Alright, here is a fresh video shot at 1080p60. Dark room, only lighting is from the pin. Stern playfield Invisiglass in place.

Details: Herg's LED OCD and GIzmo
Cointaker LEDs in Warm White and Color Matching Inserts except ORC lanes (Orange) and MB FotK (Green), TT(Red), RotK (Blue)

GIzmo is still hard to capture, but it helps when the GI gets dimmed as it allows a gradual increase/decrease that you can't get with only LEDs

#2589 6 years ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Do the lights near the shooter lane flicker instead of fading?

The 8 lamps along the shooter lane work with the insert lamps and not the GI, so the LED OCD would smooth them.

#2590 6 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The 8 lamps along the shooter lane work with the insert lamps and not the GI, so the LED OCD would smooth them.

...and you can see in my video in the post above how well LED OCD does that!

#2591 6 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The 8 lamps along the shooter lane work with the insert lamps and not the GI, so the LED OCD would smooth them.

This is what I was wondering - good to know, and thank you!

#2592 6 years ago

Every time I think I'm gonna sell her I can't, she's too damn pretty.

20180316_165459 (resized).jpg20180316_165459 (resized).jpg

#2593 6 years ago

So what angle does everyone keep the dangle of the playfield? I'm at 6.5 degrees but I've heard anywhere from 6 to 7. Also, that Pinbits plastic piece for the sword area COMPLETELY fixed the magnetization issue I was having. Just a general note!

#2594 6 years ago
Quoted from talking_goat:

Also, that Pinbits plastic piece for the sword area COMPLETELY fixed the magnetization issue I was having. Just a general note!

How does it look like, can you do a pic ? Thks

#2595 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Lotr is bad with ghosting. Get an led ocd board and it will solve that problem.

Will CT's non-ghosting premium LEDs fix the ghosting issues?

#2596 6 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Will CT's non-ghosting premium LEDs fix the ghosting issues?

Yes. Mine had comet LED's and the ghosting drove me nuts. I went to non-ghosting CT premiums and they were perfect. No ghosting at all.

#2597 6 years ago

talking_goat I generally shoot for 15 degrees on the siderails on all my Sterns. I’m not sure what that translates to for the playfield, but I don’t like taking the glass off to level games.

#2598 6 years ago

After owning it for nearly four months I finally did it.D02F6B2B-40E8-458E-9A52-AD6EB01DE70E (resized).jpegD02F6B2B-40E8-458E-9A52-AD6EB01DE70E (resized).jpeg

And it was quite the marathon game...
411C361C-AA66-413C-AA4E-23832184BE8E (resized).jpeg411C361C-AA66-413C-AA4E-23832184BE8E (resized).jpeg

#2599 6 years ago

First time to destroy the ring and under a minute not bad at all, my first dtr was over 2 minutes and filled with panic.

#2600 6 years ago

I know everyone was hoping for some news about a vault edition of LOTR at TPF and I have great news! The cost of pins is clearly getting higher and we have finally managed to find a way to cut back costs and make the game easier for new time players/buyers.
The new LOTR vault edition will feature a custom coca-cola sponsored shire skin with a built in ramp to cover that pesky left lane. By removing the vuk in the shire we are able to cut down the costs of mechanical parts and can get rid of that plastic tree wall that breaks on every machine.
Finally you can play pinball the way it was meant to be played.
Brought to you by Coca-Cola and Stern Pinball

20180320_185725 (resized).jpg20180320_185725 (resized).jpg

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