ROMs would be probably the easiest place to start.

Pull and re-seat first. Then burn/replace if that doesn't seem to help.

Also, make sure your code is updated to the latest version.

Balrog switch only works when balrog is closed. Its got to be in the shrink wrap wire. Checked all other connections. I would go down and take it apart now but im stuck on this couch

Yup. finally got me ass offnthe couch. Took a razor knife and cut a small spot where the wire bends at the bottom of the balrog post. Broken wire. Easy fix.

Can we update that with usb? I guess is no possible, i new the rom with the update right?

So you know the manual page where i can find it? thanks

Good source for ROM's. You cannot flash Whitestar with USB. You must swap out the ROM chips. Looks like a set of sound and speech ROM's is $39.

http://www.pinballroms.com/eproms/de.html

Anyone know what size bolt is used to secure the switch that triggers the pop kicker? Any tips on how to remove them in such a tight 90 degree angle? Bolts on the switch at the the bottom of the picture. Thanks

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If you're talking about the fork switch, it's 3/16. I just took one of these off my RBION yesterday using a deep socket. It would be better to remove the mech, though... easier to remove the switch that way.

Interesting enough, I have to replace the same fork switch in the Gollum/Gimli vuk on my LOTR today.

I think it is 2/56 in the manual I believe. I will remove the the whole mech fr a better angle.

I'm think it's a 2-56 nut, but not 100% sure...

Are you sure you have the correct flipper coils installed? Seems like you are fighting a ton of 'too much power' issues. When the game is minty clean things like flying off the ramp is common.. but it settles down. Are you fighting this kind of problem?

Removing the screw and small plastic post fixed the problem for good I have not had a refuse since then.

The flippers are strong and I believe upgraded by the previous owner who had the game dialed in. But that was before I restored the playfield. The game was in good shape but had many dimples. Now the playfield is like glass and at 7.4 degrees. The game is really fast. The Palentir target got hit hard the first few games. The bracket got bent with the end result of the target facing up. That lead to major air balls. I had to bend it back and change the foam. I'm still looking for a reinforced L bracket.

Even with that a few times the ball bounced over the flippers.

It might indeed be a little too much. I still need to fine tuning the game, that's for sure. I never played it elsewhere so I can't tell how it is supposed to play.

So I'm getting a lot of flipper buzz. I have always had a decent amount of coil buzz (orthanc, flippers, even ring magnet, it seems). But the left flipper is really buzzing lately. I completely rebuilt that flipper with all new parts a few months ago, and it didn't really buzz then, but now it's big time.

Hello all, I picked up a LOTR last year and this is my first Stern game. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to electrical problems on machines, but I am hoping this is an easy one. In an attempt to replace bulbs, i found that under the flasher cap on the right side underneath the sword, i am missing a socket. The wires are simply taped off. On the left, I see that this should be a yellow plastic socket (shown in the last picture), but I cant seem to locate one of these online. A search for stern flasher socket doesn't return anything similar to this. Any clue where I can find one of these?

I'm in need of plastics as well, and I cant find any in stock from here to Australia at this time. Is there a cycle when these are put into production on a regular basis?

Thanks for any info!

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Pardon me because I think I found the info from a post on another Stern game.

LTG posted...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=886

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=885

...and I think the 885 part is it. Let me know if I am wrong.

Now, plastic sets... I just found them in stock at PinballLife. Thanks!

885 is the correct part, 886 is the same thing but has a bracket on top for a screw mount. You may want to order the idc insertion tool at the same time you get the socket since those things can be a pain to rewire.

I ordered some balls from eBay that are supposedly carbon steel and should not magnetize. After two games they were severely magnetized. It's amazing how fast it happened and the problems this creates. Balls stuck in the sword, in the Ring's exit hole, stuck together when cradling multiple balls, and also problems in the ball trough.

What are you guys using for balls?

Get the oooh shiney's from Pinball Life. They are often out of stock though.

I buy carbon in bulk from Marco.. Last order was 78 cents each for 100.

I run 4 at a time through my Lortone rotary polisher with crushed walnut media and red rouge for a week and they turn out magnificent. Super smooth and shiny. After 300 plays or so I run them through the polisher again. They turn out 99% as nice as the first time through. I get about 3 cycles through the polisher before they hit the recycle bin. So I get about 1000-1200 plays per set of balls.

Carbon balls *will* magnetize although not as fast as chromium.

Turns out the thread I got the ebay seller recommendation from reported similar magnetization problem.

I also tumble rusty balls and they come out very nice. I did it in a vibrating tumbler but I also have a double rotary tumbler and will try it out and see how they come out.

Replace the coil stop, it should solve your problem.

Game is unplayable with magnetized balls

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The secret is the crushed walnut with red rouge... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUE30Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

IMHO the rotaries work a lot better than the vibratory because of the rolling action and it's a lot slower.

Your results may vary but I really like how they turn out.

Thanks for the link. I started a batch with Flitz. Are you able to remove minor rust off the surface?

Hi all, just became a member of the LoTR LE owners club.
Cant wait to pick it up.

Does anyone know how to get hold of the original figures that came with the2003 version.
Much appreciated

But DAMN! ..that chrome/polished lock cover. Mmmmmmmm.

Check my post nr. 154, I made a complete list including ebay search terms and sample links.

You can get all figures easily off ebay for small money, there are only very few that are rare and slightly more expensive.

Don't buy any "complete sets" for hundreds of Dollars, they do nothing else than buy them off ebay and re-sell them for 3 times the original price.

Yes.. But keep in mind that it does take longer in the rotary than the vibratory. But the finish is far nicer. I have done lots of experiments with this, and for balls that are worse then normal, I have run them through the vibratory as a "first pass" and then run them through the rotary.

Obviously any balls with pits or chips or gouges need to be tossed as they are not salvageable.

If you try that red rouge media, you will stop buying Flitz. Personally I think that stuff is way overpriced.

Hey question about my ring magnet.

The magnet works, as in the spinner seems to trigger it ok. It is pretty tough to get that ball up the ramp and into the magnet hole though. The ball bounces off the ring a fair amount and getting it inside is a little tricky. The magnet holds the ball though.

When I was testing the magnet with the glass off while playing I made it to Destroy the Ring. I always come close but never did this because I suck, but I managed to complete the shots and got the first ball in the magnet and then the second ball in the magnet to know it through, but both balls got stuck there. I poked them through with my finger to Destroy the ring and game went crazy. Very cool. I thought that one ball knocks the other ball out of the magnet to Destroy the ring, but could be wrong.

So is my magnet not pulling enough during a normal ring shot when the ball bounces off the edge and is the magnet to strong and holding two balls during Destroy the Ring? Any tips? Thanks

If two balls ever get stuck in the ring magnet, turn the game off immediately. If you don't you will blow a fuse and maybe worse, a transistor. That's why some people go into the settings and change DTR to single ball, to alleviate the risk. Sounds to me like you have zero problem with your magnet. Seems more like a lack of flipper power. Rebuild your flippers if you have not. Check to make sure your game is not set up too steep. And make sure the playfield is clean. I do not recommend the PBL stronger flipper coils as you may experience broken plastics like I did.

It all makes sense what you said. Thanks

I never really got into LOTR years ago when I began to get into pinball and have owned mine for a little over six months now. If you had told me a year ago that my ACDC grail of a pin would be gone and LOTR would be one of my favorites ever I would have said you were out of your mind, but things change and here we are with myself doing just that.

Make sure your spinner is set right, if not it will slow the ball down. It needs to be set so the bottom is tilting back.

+1 to everything LOTR_breath mentioned. The first time I got two balls stuck on the magnet I waited for the ball search to clear it - don't do that. A few minutes later I was waiting for the soldering iron to heat so I could replace that transistor!

I had the same problem with bounce outs and a few other things could be causing it. Check that the spinner at the ramp entrance is hanging at 90 degrees to the playfield, which means the top edge is slightly tilted towards the player. It tends to mushroom over time and hang with the bottom edge towards the player, which can rob the ball of momentum as it enters. Carefully bending the wire arms will change the angle at which it hangs.

The tips of the ring ramp will also mushroom from rejected ring shots, and can affect the ball if it gets too bad. File those down flat.

You can also slightly adjust the aim of the ramp by loosening the mounting screws and twisting the ramp, then cranking the nuts down tightly.

Yes I believe the bottom of my spinner leans forward and not back slowing the ball and not making a straight shot. I will adjust over the weekend.

I will change DTR to single ball.

On loosening the bolts underneath the playfield to adjust the ramp - what type of bolts are used underneath the ramp? Is there risk of having the nuts in a constant spin if they get to loose - meaning do you have to somehow secure the bolt from the top side of the playfield as you tighten the nut from underneath?
Thanks for the input!

The bolts are welded to the ramp so nothing to hold topside. Typical thru-holes secured with washer and nut, so you won't have much wiggle room, but that small adjustment might help and it will take 30 seconds to do. Start with the spinner first as that will have a major impact on the ball if not hanging correctly. And of course rebuild the flippers if you haven't already.

Keep working on it until you can make that shot cleanly, and DON'T change to single ball. 2-ball DTR is where it's at on this game and you'll be missing out on the stress of having to make that clean shot under pressure!

I don't remember there was any adjustment possible with either ramp when I put the play field back together.

My balrog is super loose - he moved around a lot during play. I suspect I need to replace the coil stop/sleeve or whatever that plastic part is. Can anyone link the proper replacement part to purchase? I'm having issues finding it at marco/pinballlife.

The manual lists the bushing for balrog as part #545-5070-00.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5070-00

The looseness can come from a number of different reasons. Have you checked the fit of the axle shaft in the frame? Best check first.
Another possibility is that the steel clutch plates are loose and need tightening.

^^this..

Especially the steel clutch plates. It's common for them to get loose. They are located in the big gray coupler looking thing on the balrog motor assy. There are 2 machine screws with 1/4" heads on them. Make sure the flat on the shaft if perpendicular to the plane of the screws and tighten them down. Do NOT over tighten as they just screw into the plastic.

Thank you for the advise. I did try and screw down the two screws located on the motor coupler thing, but it is still super loose. Anywhere else I should check before breaking him apart?

It's just a basic mechanical thing. If the clutch isn't the problem then you'll just have to look the assembly over and figure it out. It is not very hard to get the balrog assy out of the game.

As mentioned before - tips on which way to bend the Ring spinner holders to make the bottom of the spinner kick back so the ball is not getting slowed or sidetracked on the way up the center ramp? Thanks

\
. O.......

^^ If you get what I mean.

Was tired of looking at the plain clear plastic overhanging the return on the left ramp so I decided to design my own mod. I thought it was strange the most common poem from the books isn't anywhere to be found on the game (other than in script form). Simple, but fills the space nicely.
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Did you just use an engraver to make that? Looks awesome! You should start selling them.

Looks great! That poem does scroll across the DMD during attract mode, but I don't think it is anywhere else in the game.

It isn't?

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