The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

3 years ago



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  • 373 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by judremy
  • Topic is favorited by 201 Pinsiders

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There are 3304 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 67.
#1351 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I put two washers on my game to be on the safe side. I tried inverting the bracket to have wider Pippin lane but eventually moved it back to be able to replace the rubber. Otherwise the screw head is on the wrong side.

Interesting idea. So you drilled another hole in the ball guide in order to make that work?

#1352 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

Do you have close ups of the clear coat in high wear areas? I'd be curious to see the dimpling and level of reflection.

This is the best I can get with the lighting where the game is at. Interesting thing I noticed. There is so much reflection that on the close up shots my camera was actually focusing on the texture of the popcorn ceiling in that room. You can see the ancient smoke detector reflected in the PF in one of the pics. At first I thought my camera was going haywire and "texturizing" the surface until I realized what was actually happening. Should should give you an idea of the level of reflection.

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#1353 1 year ago

No, I just put the bracket upside down. I backed away because I did not want to be in a situation were I could not access the head and either unscrew or tighten the bracket.

#1354 1 year ago

Really nice shine. You did a fine job with the clear coat.

#1355 1 year ago

And the Cliffy's will hide the wear in the VUK areas just fine.

#1356 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

Really nice shine. You did a fine job with the clear coat.

Thank you. Considering I cleared the PF 13 years ago, it got 7600 plays with no maintenance and then cleaned up that nicely I am pretty happy.

Quoted from lb1:

And the Cliffy's will hide the wear in the VUK areas just fine.

Yup.. That's the idea.

#1357 1 year ago

If anyone has the installation instructions for this ring flasher mod, please let me know. Thanks

http://www.pinballrefinery.com/store#!/LOTR-Ring-Flasher-mod/p/39395948/category=4730921

#1358 1 year ago
Quoted from pin2d:

If anyone has the installation instructions for this ring flasher mod, please let me know. Thanks
http://www.pinballrefinery.com/store#!/LOTR-Ring-Flasher-mod/p/39395948/category=4730921

Contact Hemiorange09 (Steve), who created that mod, via the Private Message system on Pinside. He can send you the installation instructions.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/hemiorange09

#1359 1 year ago

Hi guys....need some help. Been through the manual and I just can't seem to find the p/n of the diodes on specific coils. I found the diode list in the back and the coil p/ns but how do I find the specific diode p/n for each coil. Having trouble with my sword lock and wanted a spare diode ...just in case. Going to get the transistor today. Thanks!

#1360 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Hi guys....need some help. Been through the manual and I just can't seem to find the p/n of the diodes on specific coils. I found the diode list in the back and the coil p/ns but how do I find the specific diode p/n for each coil. Having trouble with my sword lock and wanted a spare diode ...just in case. Going to get the transistor today. Thanks!

1N4004 is the part number for coil diodes.

#1361 1 year ago
Quoted from Radius118:

1N4004 is the part number for coil diodes.

Correct. Here are a couple of links...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004 (contains detailed specs and diagrams)
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173 (cheaper source)

#1362 1 year ago

Thanks! Now why would I smoke the diode and fuse when I turn on the high voltage ? New q21 transistor....this one has got me.

#1363 1 year ago

Can someone do me a favor and measure thier 50v supply and check what voltage it actually is? Im having problems with my lotr, and figure its the mpu board, but a failing bridge causing high voltages may cause issues too. Mine is reading 73v, curious if thats normal.

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#1364 1 year ago

20 volts on my sword lock coil when I turn on machine. New Q21 and diode across coil. now what?

#1365 1 year ago

I have been having some issues with the sword lock. The release often does not work when all three balls are locked. I have put very few plays on the game since rebuilt and the balls are brand new silver jets chromium balls. I'm thinking it could be the balls are already magnetized but it seems awfully quick. Thoughts?

#1366 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I have been having some issues with the sword lock. The release often does not work when all three balls are locked. I have put very few plays on the game since rebuilt and the balls are brand new silver jets chromium balls. I'm thinking it could be the balls are already magnetized but it seems awfully quick. Thoughts?

Silverjets get magnetized easily.

#1367 1 year ago

So....any help on why i have 20 volts on the sword lock coil when I turn on the game?

#1368 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

So....any help on why i have 20 volts on the sword lock coil when I turn on the game?

Is it pulling the plunger ball lock post down and holding it there permanently when you turn on the game? If so, then the transistor is likely shorted and needs to be replaced.

#1369 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

So....any help on why i have 20 volts on the sword lock coil when I turn on the game?

There should always be 20vdc measured from each coil tab to ground. The game will energize the coil by taking the signal wire to ground. If your coil is energizing as soon as you turn the game on it is usually a shorted transistor, as DCFAN stated. You said you already replaced the transistor. It may be shorted again. There could also be a shorted pre-driver transistor if there is one in the circuit. There could also be a bad chip that sends the signal to the transistor. I had this once on a Monopoly causing the flipper to energize on power up. That was a long time ago but IIRC it was an LS74xxx. I could ck the manual tomorrow.

#1370 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

There should always be 20vdc measured from each coil tab to ground. The game will energize the coil by taking the signal wire to ground. If your coil is energizing as soon as you turn the game on it is usually a shorted transistor, as DCFAN stated. You said you already replaced the transistor. It may be shorted again. There could also be a shorted pre-driver transistor if there is one in the circuit. There could also be a bad chip that sends the signal to the transistor. I had this once on a Monopoly causing the flipper to energize on power up. That was a long time ago but IIRC it was an LS74xxx. I could ck the manual tomorrow.

Yeah....I'm thinking it's getting the signal to turn on. This is my second transistor and it's doing the same thing. Pretty sure I'm ruling that out. Only thing in front of the transistor is a diode and a resistor then a chip...U3. But need to find out the variables that tells the chip to send the signal to energize the coil. Oh what fun!

#1371 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Yeah....I'm thinking it's getting the signal to turn on. This is my second transistor and it's doing the same thing. Pretty sure I'm ruling that out. Only thing in front of the transistor is a diode and a resistor then a chip...U3. But need to find out the variables that tells the chip to send the signal to energize the coil. Oh what fun!

Also, measure the resistance on the coil to see if it is shorted.

#1372 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Also, measure the resistance on the coil to see if it is shorted.

Yep...did that. I think it was 16 ohms....sound about right?

#1373 1 year ago

BTW...just wanted to thank you guys for the help. been away from electronics for awhile so trying to follow signal path frustrates the heck out of me....
anyone know of a "game profile/description" somewhere. When my sword lock was working it would let a few balls pass then lock a few etc. Just trying to find a description of how this thing knows what to do and when it does it.

#1374 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

BTW...just wanted to thank you guys for the help. been away from electronics for awhile so trying to follow signal path frustrates the heck out of me....
anyone know of a "game profile/description" somewhere. When my sword lock was working it would let a few balls pass then lock a few etc. Just trying to find a description of how this thing knows what to do and when it does it.

You have to spell lock for a ball to lock. When the ball goes through the inlanes or outlanes it will light the letter if it is not lit already. You can shift the lights to an unlit one as the ball is approaching by pressing the flipper buttons. If lock is not lit then a ball goes through the lock when the ramp shot is made.

#1375 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

You have to spell lock for a ball to lock. When the ball goes through the inlanes or outlanes it will light the letter if it is not lit already. You can shift the lights to an unlit one as the ball is approaching by pressing the flipper buttons. If lock is not lit then a ball goes through the lock when the ramp shot is made.

Ok....well that's interesting. Didn't know that. Can tell I'm a rookie.
Can't imagine how hard tracing those signals will be.....

#1376 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Ok....well that's interesting. Didn't know that. Can tell I'm a rookie.
Can't imagine how hard tracing those signals will be.....

LOTR was my first game. It took me several months to figure out the lock lights and many other of the nuances of the LOTR code. Sadly, I was not playing pinball from about 1988 to 2010.

#1377 1 year ago

One other thing that can cause repeated blown transistors is the diode backwards on the coil. Compare to some other working coils and confirm that the banded/non-banded side of the diode is going to the correct wires.

#1378 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

LOTR was my first game. It took me several months to figure out the lock lights and many other of the nuances of the LOTR code. Sadly, I was not playing pinball from about 1988 to 2010.

Our first game also. Love to play just seems like I take one step forward and two back when working on it.

#1379 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

One other thing that can cause repeated blown transistors is the diode backwards on the coil. Compare to some other working coils and confirm that the banded/non-banded side of the diode is going to the correct wires.

banded side on the 20 v....right? If I remember correctly....current flows against the arrow on the schematic.

#1380 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

You have to spell lock for a ball to lock. When the ball goes through the inlanes or outlanes it will light the letter if it is not lit already. You can shift the lights to an unlit one as the ball is approaching by pressing the flipper buttons. If lock is not lit then a ball goes through the lock when the ramp shot is made.

The green inlane and outlane inserts spell "KEEP", not "LOCK", but they do enable the sword lock on the right ramp.

#1381 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

banded side on the 20 v....right? If I remember correctly....current flows against the arrow on the schematic.

Current flows in the direction of the arrow. The diode prevents backflow.

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#1382 1 year ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

Current flows in the direction of the arrow. The diode prevents backflow.

OK...thanks.

#1383 1 year ago

Well she's finally done.. Just in time for tomorrow...

I only played one quick test game on it and man is it stupid fast. Will take a while to calm down.

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#1384 1 year ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Well she's finally done.. Just in time for tomorrow...
I only played one quick test game on it and man is it stupid fast. Will take a while to calm down.

Ok. Time for me to speak up.
As the person responsible for most of those 7k+ plays..................
That looks really clean.
Could I borrow it for a few months?

p.s. If anybody has a pin that needs to be field tested. I might be your guy.

#1385 1 year ago

I'm getting consistent rejects from the left loop -> Barad-Dur shot. Is there something that can help? Foam on the metal deflector?

#1386 1 year ago
Quoted from doloe:

Ok. Time for me to speak up.
As the person responsible for most of those 7k+ plays..................
That looks really clean.
Could I borrow it for a few months?
p.s. If anybody has a pin that needs to be field tested. I might be your guy.

Hahaha! Missing it already? Maybe you should abandon the next game on your list and look for another one of these instead.

#1387 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I'm getting consistent rejects from the left loop -> Barad-Dur shot. Is there something that can help? Foam on the metal deflector?

I have the same issue after rebuilding my LOTR.. I think the ball is just hitting the small scoop too fast and bouncing out. Let me know if you find a solution for this. I am thinking a blue nub of death trimmed and glued down might do the trick.

#1388 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I'm getting consistent rejects from the left loop -> Barad-Dur shot. Is there something that can help? Foam on the metal deflector?

If you are referring to the saucer in the back right, use drop dead foam. It takes some trial and error to get the foam in the right places for that scoop. It will probably take multiple pieces to place it right.

#1389 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I'm getting consistent rejects from the left loop -> Barad-Dur shot. Is there something that can help? Foam on the metal deflector?

I'm having the exact same problem!

#1390 1 year ago
Quoted from Radius118:

I have the same issue after rebuilding my LOTR.. I think the ball is just hitting the small scoop too fast and bouncing out. Let me know if you find a solution for this. I am thinking a blue nub of death trimmed and glued down might do the trick.

You might just want to let the game get a little dirty and maybe increase the pitch. I've never really had this issue and there are no mods in that area.

#1391 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

If you are referring to the saucer in the back right, use drop dead foam. It takes some trial and error to get the foam in the right places for that scoop. It will probably take multiple pieces to place it right.

Agreed.

Quoted from DCFAN:

For the Barad-Dur tower scoop, I had bounce-outs as well. I bought a piece of Drop-dead foam from pinball life. It has a peel and stick back side. I just cut a couple small pieces of that and placed it in the back of the scoop beyond the upkicker and that seems to solve the problem.
The good thing about that is that I did not have to do any permanent modification to the game.

I can't find this product currently on the Pinball Life website, but Pinbits still sells it.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=de5a2898b03521f0687bb0d733f1bfb0

#1392 1 year ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

Agreed.

I can't find this product currently on the Pinball Life website, but Pinbits still sells it.
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=de5a2898b03521f0687bb0d733f1bfb0

Wow, you dug up my post from 5 years ago.

#1393 1 year ago

I am going to use the same foam tape I use for targets and I got at Home Depot.

#1394 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

You might just want to let the game get a little dirty

Haha.
More play time and less cleaning time.
Maybe I had just gotten had the play field dialed in.

#1395 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I am going to use the same foam tape I use for targets and I got at Home Depot.

I put some foam but that didn't stop the bounce backs. What eventually fixed the problem is the entire removal of the small spacer that's supposed to prevent trapped balls. It is what the ball was hitting.

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#1396 1 year ago

really? mine bounce out once in a while too, was'bnt sure what other people were doing for this?

#1397 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

really? mine bounce out once in a while too, was'bnt sure what other people were doing for this?

Try it out and see. It is easy to access and remove. Looks like foam was used by others but it took some experimentation and adjustments.

In my case the ball was bouncing back 90% of the time so it was a real problem.

Now I have to figure out how to tame the crazy bounces I get off the Palantir target and also reinforce the target bracket.

#1398 1 year ago
Quoted from doloe:

Haha.
More play time and less cleaning time.
Maybe I had just gotten had the play field dialed in.

When you got it the game had 200 plays on it after clearing the playfield. Plenty of time for the game to "calm down" after clearing.

#1399 1 year ago

Gentleman

Feel free to DL this & send it to the lady in your life for Valentine's day today

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#1400 1 year ago

Ive recentlly got a lord and maybe someone can help me with something,

At start of the 2 towers multiball the line speech "toooo warrr" i dont get it, sound seems ok is all other points and features, but on this one i dont hear it... roms?

Any one with this issue?

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