New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,610 posts
  • 552 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Asylum
  • Topic is favorited by 284 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,493 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20201201_215525 (resized).jpg
FF9B3710-A2EF-4FC5-8133-C99C8EF8C680 (resized).jpeg
bundle1 (resized).jpg
LoTR+Hobbit (resized).jpg
LoTR3 (resized).jpg
LoTR2 (resized).jpg
LoTR1 (resized).jpg
D3B49811-E706-4DDD-AA0A-815ADC0F7534 (resized).jpeg
763D59EC-5DDC-403E-BB70-B71BF1596D55 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9086 (resized).jpg
IMG_9084 (resized).jpg
2AA3412A-B325-4F6E-9DE4-6C40E91E0F54 (resized).jpeg
86F20202-ABA7-4CC9-BEDD-90AE3090E470 (resized).jpeg
220E459A-770F-4322-BBBD-EEF35BD4DDDF (resized).jpeg
63512975-2B2D-4081-95B0-3D1ADF7D5653 (resized).jpeg
510E7D60-B5B9-41E5-81E5-18ADF4E3AD19 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 6610 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 133.
#1051 4 years ago

I just joined the club. How can I tell what code I'm running? My pin was built Nov 2006 and I believe it says A10.

Also my pin seems to start with a lot of the rings already lit, I assume this is because the menu setting is to easy?

#1052 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I just joined the club. How can I tell what code I'm running? My pin was built Nov 2006 and I believe it says A10.
Also my pin seems to start with a lot of the rings already lit, I assume this is because the menu setting is to easy?

Depends on whether the game is set for Fast Boot or Slow Boot. If it's set for Fast Boot, hold the R Flipper button in while turning the game on. After about 3-4 seconds, the software versions should show on the display. If it's set for Slow Boot, there is no need to hold the R Flipper button in during start up. This information will display when the game is turned on.

A10.00 is the latest code release for the Standard Edition. A10.02 is the latest code release for the Limited Edition. (A10.02 can also be run on the Standard Edition to enable shaker motor functionality, if you have the corresponding PAL chip. Otherwise, there is no difference between A10.00 and A10.02.)

On Factory Settings, the three Elf Rings should be lit at the start, allowing you to begin a ring mode with the first successful shot up the Ring Ramp.

#1053 4 years ago

PS - Read this. It's not completely up to date, but it is a great starting point.

http://pinball.org/rules/lordoftherings.txt

#1055 4 years ago

Helping a friend LED his LOTR...What looks best on the inserts for a classy look? Color match or warm white?....For GIs keep it warm or add color? Just dont want it to look like a clown vomited on pf

#1056 4 years ago

Hello LOTR owners,

I am looking to join the club, and recently created a post for a price check. Please go look at it the pictures and give me your opinion.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-routed-players-condition-lotr

Thanks

#1057 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Helping a friend LED his LOTR...What looks best on the inserts for a classy look? Color match or warm white?....For GIs keep it warm or add color? Just dont want it to look like a clown vomited on pf

On my game, I went with Comet's 2-SMD, frosted, bullet-top LEDs for all of the inserts. Almost all of the inserts were color-matched except yellow, where I used warm white LEDs, per Art's suggestion. I used a single RGB color-changing LED for the Palantir insert, specifically to draw more attention to that important shot.

On the GI bulbs, I used warm white 2-SMD, frosted, bullet-top LEDs.

Those were just my personal choices. Most of the lighting decisions really boil down to personal preference, and those decisions can be easily changed or reversed if your friend decides to sell the game later.

Most importantly, though, if you install LEDs in LOTR, you should seriously consider installing an LED-OCD kit (made by Herg here on Pinside) to smooth out the lighting transitions and fades to make those features equivalent to incandescent bulbs. On this particular game, it is one of the most important mods to consider, if you decide to go with LED bulbs.

#1058 4 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

On my game, I went with Comet's 2-SMD, frosted, bullet-top LEDs for all of the inserts. Almost all of the inserts were color-matched except yellow, where I used warm white LEDs, per Art's suggestion. I used a single RGB color-changing LED for the Palantir insert, specifically to draw more attention to that important shot.
On the GI bulbs, I used warm white 2-SMD, frosted, bullet-top LEDs.
Those were just my personal choices. Most of the lighting decisions really boil down to personal preference, and those decisions can be easily changed or reversed if your friend decides to sell the game later.
Most importantly, though, if you install LEDs in LOTR, you should seriously consider installing an LED-OCD kit (made by Herg here on Pinside) to smooth out the lighting transitions and fades to make those features equivalent to incandescent bulbs. On this particular game, it is one of the most important mods to consider, if you decide to go with LED bulbs.

yep. He has the ocd board. I have heard alot of people put color changer on palantir

#1059 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

yep. He has the ocd board. I have heard alot of people put color changer on palantir

That's good. It'll actually save him some money on the bulbs, too. Herg recommends using basic, non-premium bulbs with his board, since they allow the board to provide better lighting control. Premium, non-ghosting bulbs are not necessary or desired with the LED-OCD board.

#1060 4 years ago

Led-OCD makes a world of difference on this game once LEDs are in!!!

#1061 4 years ago

can you guys make the ring shot from the right flipper easily?

#1062 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

can you guys make the ring shot from the right flipper easily?

Yes. Make sure your spinner is aligned properly. Could be slowing the ball down.

#1063 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Yes. Make sure your spinner is aligned properly. Could be slowing the ball down.

Agreed. They get bent very easily and need to be straightened.

LOTR spinners get beat to hell on the bottom edge and should be considered a replaceable item. I've had my game for 2 years, and I've replaced the spinner twice. If mere straightening doesn't work, I recommend just buying a replacement.

#1064 4 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

Agreed. They get bent very easily and need to be straightened.
LOTR spinners get beat to hell on the bottom edge and should be considered a replaceable item. I've had my game for 2 years, and I've replaced the spinner twice. If mere straightening doesn't work, I recommend just buying a replacement.

If you can post link where to buy spinner if we need to replace it

#1065 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

If you can post link where to buy spinner if we need to replace it

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1357

#1066 4 years ago

My spinner looks ok, I can make ring shot from R flipper but not as easy as from the Left

#1067 4 years ago

Try pulling your coil sleeve to make sure its not cracked or broken. For some reason on mine i cracked the left flipper sleeve twice. I ended up installing pinball lifes upgraded coils and havent had a problem since, give them a try if you havent already.

#1068 4 years ago

Pinball life's upgraded coils are too strong. I had them and had to take them off. The ball was flying off the left ramp and I was getting worried stuff was going to break. Look at your flipper mechs, something isn't set right if you can't make the shots. As noted, clean or change the sleeves, check the eos gap and the spring and make sure your solder connections are good.

If someone want my upgraded coils, $20 shipped.

#1069 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Pinball life's upgraded coils are too strong. I had them and had to take them off. The ball was flying off the left ramp and I was getting worried stuff was going to break.

Same here, however the original coils fade as they heat up with long play. What did you go with??

Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Try pulling your coil sleeve to make sure its not cracked or broken. For some reason on mine i cracked the left flipper sleeve twice.

Also flipper can crack badly and not be visible until you look underneath.

#1070 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Same here, however the original coils fade as they heat up with long play. What did you go with??

I went back to my original stock coils. Honestly, I have no problems with them, even after 30-40 minute games. I don't hold flippers up much.

#1071 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Pinball life's upgraded coils are too strong. I had them and had to take them off. The ball was flying off the left ramp and I was getting worried stuff was going to break. Look at your flipper mechs, something isn't set right if you can't make the shots. As noted, clean or change the sleeves, check the eos gap and the spring and make sure your solder connections are good.
If someone want my upgraded coils, $20 shipped.

I've never had a ball fly off my game with the upgraded coils. did you change the slope too?

#1072 4 years ago

Just joined the club! Thanks for all the fantastic info in this thread. Read the entire thing. I'll be restoring a game that will go back on (a friendly) location with lots of protection and bullet-proofing. Anyone ever consider a mod to replace the always-broken Y switches in the VUKs? They are getting really pricey, and slowly going out of stock everywhere. I'm thinking optos, or perhaps just a bent wire form switch. To keep LOTRs running for future years, something must be done!

#1073 4 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

Anyone ever consider a mod to replace the always-broken Y switches in the VUKs? They are getting really pricey, and slowly going out of stock everywhere.

Uhm, on mine they never break - still the original ones in there.

#1074 4 years ago

What flipper coils do you guys have in yours? Mine are the same number as the PBL LOTR coils and they throw the ball a little too fast. Just curious.

#1075 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Uhm, on mine they never break - still the original ones in there.

Huh, earlier in the thread there's a lot of discussion about the switch failures. It could be the way they are bent or something like that. Curious to hear what others have exoerienced but that's good news. This isn't home use, of course, but the previous op gave me a bag of switches and said 'Yer gonna need 'em!'

#1076 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Uhm, on mine they never break - still the original ones in there.

I've had to replace my Shire VUK switch twice in the last 2 years. I've only had to adjust my Golum VUK switch in the same period, but haven't had to replace it.

#1077 4 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

What flipper coils do you guys have in yours? Mine are the same number as the PBL LOTR coils and they throw the ball a little too fast. Just curious.

I have the stronger coils from Pinball Life.

If you feel those are too strong, there is another option available on eBay. It's a medium-powered coil sold by Andrew Barney (APB_Enterprises here on Pinside).

ebay.com link » New Stern Pinball Medium Power Coil Lord Of The Rings Guns Roses Sleeve

#1078 4 years ago

My Gollum up kicker works about 70% of the time (sometimes takes 2-3 tries), what's the adjustment to improve performance?

#1079 4 years ago

Goggle it, there is a fix. Can't remember off hand, might need to bend wire form or adjust its position slightly. Look where it's hitting the wire form and adjust as needed.

#1080 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

My Gollum up kicker works about 70% of the time (sometimes takes 2-3 tries), what's the adjustment to improve performance?

Most likely the wireform scoop above the VUK is slightly off-center. There is a huge amount of play in its position, so it's easy to get off-center during a shop job. Just loosen the lock nuts holding the wireform down near the VUK, and center it by eye, looking directly down from above the VUK. Once it's centered up/down and right/left, tighten the lock nuts, and the problem will probably go away.

#1081 4 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

I have the stronger coils from Pinball Life.
If you feel those are too strong, there is another option available on eBay. It's a medium-powered coil sold by Andrew Barney (APB_Enterprises here on Pinside).
ebay.com link » New Stern Pinball Medium Power Coil Lord Of The Rings Guns Roses Sleeve

I have all 3 types of coils and APB are the best. They are the happy medium... they don't feel rocket powered like PBL and they don't tire out as easily as stock. YMMV.

#1082 4 years ago

My first week as an owner. At first I was like 'ehh did I make a mistake?'

I thought it was ok but not great.

One thing that's got me coming around to liking this pin is how easy it is to make the shots. I'm not the best player, but I'm not horrible. But this pin makes me feel like I'm actually good. The shots are fairly easy and safe. I think the pressure will come later on when there is a time limit on the later modes.

I actually started Destroy the Ring by doing the three movie modes. Of course I did crappy but at least I feel like I accomplised something by getting there.

On XMLE after 4 years I got to DR one time and had never got to DP (probably wouldn't in 40 years). I believe DP needs you to defeat all the Villian modes in one game. I'd have a hard time just to start all the Villian modes I'd never be able to defeat them all.

I see the rules to TABA just start all the modes. I have not done that but for sure that is possible. Not saying how many points I'd get in each mode but it does sound like something I'd be able to start.

IMO some games are hard beyond belief. I know Vallinor would be something I'll never see but I like some of the mini wizards along the way. Some pins won't even give you a taste of victory.

I kind of miss XMLE now, but then I realize how I'm always playing the beginning parts ad nausium and never get to the wizard or mini wizard modes.

#1083 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

My first week as an owner. At first I was like 'ehh did I make a mistake?'
I thought it was ok but not great.
One thing that's got me coming around to liking this pin is how easy it is to make the shots. I'm not the best player, but I'm not horrible. But this pin makes me feel like I'm actually good. The shots are fairly easy and safe. I think the pressure will come later on when there is a time limit on the later modes.
I actually started Destroy the Ring by doing the three movie modes. Of course I did crappy but at least I feel like I accomplised something by getting there.
On XMLE after 4 years I got to DR one time and had never got to DP (probably wouldn't in 40 years). I believe DP needs you to defeat all the Villian modes in one game. I'd have a hard time just to start all the Villian modes I'd never be able to defeat them all.
I see the rules to TABA just start all the modes. I have not done that but for sure that is possible. Not saying how many points I'd get in each mode but it does sound like something I'd be able to start.
IMO some games are hard beyond belief. I know Vallinor would be something I'll never see but I like some of the mini wizards along the way. Some pins won't even give you a taste of victory.
I kind of miss XMLE now, but then I realize how I'm always playing the beginning parts ad nausium and never get to the wizard or mini wizard modes.

Nice write-up of your first impressions. TABA is definitely doable, and for me at least, no so easy that it doesn't feel like an accomplishment. Plus, it has some awesome music.

I've had LOTR for about a year now and one of the things that really draws me is the modes. For me, they have a good bit of variety, good theme integration, and are generally challenging, but not impossible (except for you Witch King). I used to love War of the Ents because it was one I could consistently beat, but now it feels wood choppy (pun somewhat intended). All the rest are solid.

The mutliballs are my new drug though. I think TTT is fun because you can just blast away. Finishing FOTR feels like a mini-wizard mode in itself, and I'll take down ROTK someday.

Welcome to the club though!

#1084 4 years ago

Rai, try giving your game just one coat of wax if you haven't already. I bought a HUO low plays game and could make the ring just fine from both, but still felt it should be a little cleaner/easier of a shot. After the wax the ring shot was much more makeable and all others felt a lot smoother. Plus of course the playfield protection is nice.

#1085 4 years ago
Quoted from RVApinballer:

Rai, try giving your game just one coat of wax if you haven't already. I bought a HUO low plays game and could make the ring just fine from both, but still felt it should be a little cleaner/easier of a shot. After the wax the ring shot was much more makeable and all others felt a lot smoother. Plus of course the playfield protection is nice.

thanks, I will do. I think the R flipper shot feels more like it's a backhand shot. I mean I can make it but it has to be *just there* no room for error at all.

#1086 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

thanks, I will do. I think the R flipper shot feels more like it's a backhand shot. I mean I can make it but it has to be *just there* no room for error at all.

Rai, if your new-to-you game has seen a lot of plays over the years, you may simply need to rebuild your flipper mechs. That was the first thing I did after buying my game. The cost of flipper rebuild kits are very reasonable.

#1087 4 years ago

I've never done this is there a rebuild kit or do I buy new flipper mechanism?

#1088 4 years ago

First thing i would do is clean or replace the coil sleeves. Second is to make sure the springs are in good order. Third is to make sure your eos switches are gapped properly. When the flipper is at the top of the stroke, it opens the eos switch. Make sure that opening on your weak flipper is the same as it is on the strong flipper. If not, adjust it or replace it. Lastly, make sure the plunger mechanism is operating freely amd your brackets are all secure. Not much else to it. You can also check/clean the switch at the flipper button.

#1089 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

First thing i would do is clean or replace the coil sleeves. Second is to make sure the springs are in good order. Third is to make sure your eos switches are gapped properly. When the flipper is at the top of the stroke, it opens the eos switch. Make sure that opening on your weak flipper is the same as it is on the strong flipper. If not, adjust it or replace it. Lastly, make sure the plunger mechanism is operating freely amd your brackets are all secure. Not much else to it. You can also check/clean the switch at the flipper button.

Also take a look at your plunger end. Mine was mushroomed and was scrapping again the sleeves.

#1090 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I've never done this is there a rebuild kit or do I buy new flipper mechanism?

The following parts will allow you to completely rebuild both flipper mechs relatively inexpensively...

Flipper rebuild kit (1 kit):
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SFLKIT

Flipper bat bushings (2 each, not included in the above kit):
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5070-00

For background reference, you should read and bookmark the following invaluable thread from Vid1900 to see what can go wrong with each component of the flipper mechanism, and how rebuilding the mechs with fresh replacement parts and properly gapping the EOS switches can help improve flipper performance.

Vid's Guide to Upgrading & Rebuilding Flippers:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

#1092 4 years ago

Anyone able to identify these coils? They seem pretty powerful, but it does take a pretty clean shot to make the ring.

IMG_0073 (resized).JPG

IMG_0074 (resized).JPG

#1093 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anyone able to identify these coils? They seem pretty powerful, but it does take a pretty clean shot to make the ring.

Same as pinball lifes upgraded coils
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=156

#1094 4 years ago

Actually that is the standard coil. This is the upgraded coil:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1112

It is hard to tell the two apart unless you have them side by side. The upgraded coil is fatter. They have been shipping with the same part number so that does not help tell the difference.

#1095 4 years ago

Now I'm officially confused. Should I get upgraded coils then? Maybe the mid-range coils I saw on ebay? Also, one cool makes a very loud buzz when I hold down the button. Problem?

#1096 4 years ago

The one on the top is the upgraded coil. My upgraded coil has the markings LOTR on it so if yours does not have that then there is a good chance it is the standard coil. Ignore the ND marking on mine, that is for LEs which do not have the diode on the coil.

IMG_1189[1] (resized).JPG

#1097 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Now I'm officially confused. Should I get upgraded coils then? Maybe the mid-range coils I saw on ebay? Also, one cool makes a very loud buzz when I hold down the button. Problem?

I upgraded my left flipper coil and not the right and have been very happy with the power. The right flipper is a tight shot because of the angle and the palantir target being in the way so that just needs an accurate shot.

#1098 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Now I'm officially confused. Should I get upgraded coils then? Maybe the mid-range coils I saw on ebay? Also, one cool makes a very loud buzz when I hold down the button. Problem?

The very loud buzz might be a sign that something is not screwed down tightly enough. Check that every screw is tight, and that you have the proper gap between the flipper and bushing to allow for smooth travel. Clean up the entire mech and certainly clean/replace the coil sleeve as well. The standard coil should have plenty of strength, in my opinion.

#1099 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Also, one cool makes a very loud buzz when I hold down the button. Problem?

It is the coil stop, may be time to replace.

#1100 4 years ago

You do not want the "upgraded" coils. They are too powerful and then eventually fade down to the standard level after a long time of running.

The problem with LOTR has always been heat regardless of what coils you use.

Here is how to get the best experience from LOTR flippers.

1) Rebuild the flippers using all stock parts
2) Zip tie some 12v 120mm silent computer fans onto the coil brackets to keep the stock coils cool for extended play.
3) Plug the fans into the aux 12v plug on the inside right of the coin door.

What this does is give you the correct strength of flipper that never heats up and therefore never fades. Not one that starts normal then gets weak and not one that starts off way too powerful then gets to normal level. Just nice proper strength all the time.

Happy flipping .

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 95.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
M&M Mods
$ 269.00
Cabinet - Other
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Enfield, CT
$ 139.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
From: $ 218.00
$ 349.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 96.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 29.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
€ 45.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Creo Pinball
€ 25.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Creo Pinball
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 39.50
$ 48.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
West Palm Beach, FL
From: $ 99.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RGP Models
From: $ 119.99
Lighting - Backbox
Rock Custom Pinball
From: € 5.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Creo Pinball
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Pin Mods
$ 99.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
$ 219.99
There are 6610 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 133.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside