(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago


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There are 10,138 posts in this topic. You are on page 191 of 203.
#9501 11 months ago
Quoted from flipper73:i want to install the balrog whip mod. for this reason i have to take the balrog away from the playfield. Is it correct that I have to open this „construction“?

That's a cotter pin, and they are easy to remove but I am guessing you don't need to touch that for the whip mod. Just refer to SB148 attached to see how to access the Balrog flasher.

sb148.pdfsb148.pdf
#9502 11 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

That's a cotter pin, and they are easy to remove but I am guessing you don't need to touch that for the whip mod. Just refer to SB148 attached to see how to access the Balrog flasher. [quoted image]

Thank you for your answer.
I want to make a hole LN the balrog to put in the cabling. That‘s why I want to remove it. Do I understand correctly that I have to put away all the screws and Open the cotter pin I show on my foto.

#9503 11 months ago

Double

#9504 11 months ago
Quoted from flipper73:

i want to install the balrog whip mod. for this reason i have to take the balrog away from the playfield. Is it correct that I have to open this „construction“?
[quoted image]

Yes - straighten out the pin and pull it out, unplug the connector under the playfield and then the whole thing should just pull up (IF I recall correctly…). You may need to clip the zip ties to make it easier but I think I was able to keep them on.

#9505 11 months ago

Some extra stuff I have. Most of the plastics still have protective film. some used clear ones that are hard to see against floor. Slings are in rough shape. Apron decals are used but nice. Brass rods for making your own habit trail thing to remove lower left deflector plastic,
Figures are mostly old and dirty.

Just send me a DM if you want anything. The more you want the less I'll charge per piece!
PXL_20230423_151257213 (resized).jpgPXL_20230423_151257213 (resized).jpgPXL_20230423_151302422 (resized).jpgPXL_20230423_151302422 (resized).jpg

#9506 11 months ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Those art blades are the best one..they are thin.

We have licensed this product from Sillyoldself and are now printing them ourselves from the original art file. The laminate we are using is thicker than what Sillyoldself was using. They are now more in line with Stern Art Blades in regards to thickness and texture.
Terry.

#9507 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballlife:

We have licensed this product from Sillyoldself and are now printing them ourselves from the original art file. The laminate we are using is thicker than what Sillyoldself was using. They are now more in line with Stern Art Blades in regards to thickness and texture.
Terry.

Damn. Wish I had yours! I love the art but the thin, glossy stuff he used is not ideal. Thanks for clarifying.

#9508 11 months ago
Quoted from Williams95:

Yes - straighten out the pin and pull it out, unplug the connector under the playfield and then the whole thing should just pull up (IF I recall correctly…). You may need to clip the zip ties to make it easier but I think I was able to keep them on.

so everything worked fine with the balrog. Thanks again for your help.

#9509 11 months ago

by the way - is there a chance to win an extra ball with Ring Multiball?

#9510 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballlife:

We have licensed this product from Sillyoldself and are now printing them ourselves from the original art file. The laminate we are using is thicker than what Sillyoldself was using. They are now more in line with Stern Art Blades in regards to thickness and texture.
Terry.

I’ll be ordering a set with my next order. Love my silly old elf blades but they are super thin and have torn in several places.

#9511 11 months ago

Is anybody aware of any place that sells capacitor kits for the boards? I can order them individually but a kit would be super nice. My game is playing very well, but it is also 20 years old and it might be time for some proactive maintenance.

#9512 11 months ago

Some good news, some bad.

Good news: Recently got to TABA--(twice!); finally finished both Fellowship and ROTK multiballs (Fellowship twice in seperate games, ROTK once).
Not quite Valinor yet.

IMG_3299 (resized).JPGIMG_3299 (resized).JPG IMG_3301 (resized).JPGIMG_3301 (resized).JPG

Bad news: The right flipper is sticking up. It's a mechanical problem; it will stick with the power off if I move the flipper bat.
Troubleshooting things, it isn't a messed up coil stop (as I've read in other threads). This one looks like an intermittent problem with a bushing catching on the EOS switch leaves. (Pic that attempts to show the problem).

IMG_3311 (resized).PNGIMG_3311 (resized).PNG

Any quick fixes for that, aside from doing a complete flipper rebuild?

#9513 11 months ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

I’ll be ordering a set with my next order. Love my silly old elf blades but they are super thin and have torn in several places.

Mine as well on one spot on the back left. I do have a back up SOE set (because I was paranoid of them not being made anymore and not having a replacements if mine got worse) but I'll try one of these also so I can gauge the difference.

#9514 11 months ago

What GI bulbs from Comet would keep the same candlelight glow that this game has with incandescent bulbs? At some point, I am going to convert it to LED. I want to maintain the overall look of the incandescent bulbs as best I can. Comet says "Warm White" is the yellowest and closest match to incandescent. Anyone confirm that? Or is Sunlight closer? Also, would the frosted or clear lens look closer to incandescent for the led bulbs?

#9515 11 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

What GI bulbs from Comet would keep the same candlelight glow that this game has with incandescent bulbs? At some point, I am going to convert it to LED. I want to maintain the overall look of the incandescent bulbs as best I can. Comet says "Warm White" is the yellowest and closest match to incandescent. Anyone confirm that? Or is Sunlight closer? Also, would the frosted or clear lens look closer to incandescent for the led bulbs?

Frosted warm white is the way to go. They look great in mine. I used frosted to eliminate the blinding effect of the clear.

#9516 11 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Comet says "Warm White" is the yellowest and closest match to incandescent. Anyone confirm that? Or is Sunlight closer?

Examples here-

https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/how-to-buy-pinball-leds

#9517 11 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

What GI bulbs from Comet would keep the same candlelight glow that this game has with incandescent bulbs? At some point, I am going to convert it to LED. I want to maintain the overall look of the incandescent bulbs as best I can. Comet says "Warm White" is the yellowest and closest match to incandescent. Anyone confirm that? Or is Sunlight closer? Also, would the frosted or clear lens look closer to incandescent for the led bulbs?

Warm white is still not as warm as incandescent. Sunlight is much farther off.
Here's warm white GI on mine. This photo is cool because it has a reference at the top, the 8 bulbs you usually can't see from player angle.
From left to right: Green, Cool white, sunlight, warm white, warm white, orange?, yellow? red. Looks like I need to swap the orange and yellow! These are all comet bulbs.
But notice how blue the cool white looks (also used on gandalf staff). Sunlight is a very neutral white and not warm at all IMO.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#9518 11 months ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Warm white is still not as warm as incandescent. Sunlight is much farther off.
Here's warm white GI on mine. This photo is cool because it has a reference at the top, the 8 bulbs you usually can't see from player angle.
From left to right: Green, Cool white, sunlight, warm white, warm white, orange?, yellow? red. Looks like I need to swap the orange and yellow! These are all comet bulbs.
But notice how blue the cool white looks (also used on gandalf staff). Sunlight is a very neutral white and not warm at all IMO. [quoted image]

Hi Sorokyl can you tell me where I can get this mod on the left side of the picture. I mean this little house.

#9519 11 months ago
Quoted from flipper73:

Hi Sorokyl can you tell me where I can get this mod on the left side of the picture. I mean this little house.

https://www.pinworlds.com/
Same guy does the sculpted Orthanc and Mt Doom you see in the back.

#9520 11 months ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

https://www.pinworlds.com/
Same guy does the sculpted Orthanc and Mt Doom you see in the back.

thank you - ordered

#9521 11 months ago

I bought the side art blades from pinballife. The sillyoldelf ones. Any advice on installing them from someone that's done it? Should I remove the playfield? I didn't see a cut out for the hinge bolts on the blades.

#9522 11 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I bought the side art blades from pinballife. The sillyoldelf ones. Any advice on installing them from someone that's done it? Should I remove the playfield? I didn't see a cut out for the hinge bolts on the blades.

Can spray the adhesive side with soapy water or windex and slide around to position. Use a credit card to squeeze out bubbles or liquid. When they dry you're all set. I just ignored the hinge bolt. Not like I'm taking off the hinge bolt ever. If I need to ill cut a whole then.

#9523 11 months ago
Quoted from flipper73:

by the way - is there a chance to win an extra ball with Ring Multiball?

I believe if you hit the ring shot 10 times you get an extra ball. Not sure how many but yes you can. Check settings too.

Quoted from chadderack:

Any quick fixes for that, aside from doing a complete flipper rebuild?

I'd replace the coil sleeve as well. It's hard to see the intrusion of the eos switch from your photo

#9524 11 months ago

Barrel cup holder is available - $65 shipping included- PM me if you’d like one.

IMG_2410 (resized).jpegIMG_2410 (resized).jpegIMG_2413 (resized).jpegIMG_2413 (resized).jpeg
#9525 11 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Barrel cup holder is available - $65 shipping included- PM me if you’d like one.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Believe the license this is shared under requires you to attribute the creator when you go to sell. So here ya go:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209406

#9526 11 months ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Can spray the adhesive side with soapy water or windex and slide around to position. Use a credit card to squeeze out bubbles or liquid. When they dry you're all set. I just ignored the hinge bolt. Not like I'm taking off the hinge bolt ever. If I need to ill cut a whole then.

Thanks. Wouldn't a misting of just distilled water work ok? It looks like there are round black stickers or something from when these were made covering the holes for the hinges. I was wondering if people just put the art blades right over those, or took those round thin stickers or covers off?

#9527 11 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Thanks. Wouldn't a misting of just distilled water work ok? It looks like there are round black stickers or something from when these were made covering the holes for the hinges. I was wondering if people just put the art blades right over those, or took those round thin stickers or covers off?

Never tried plain water.
Yes if there are cutouts you can pop them out.

#9528 11 months ago

Became a part of the club last month and have spent some time cleaning, adjusting, adding colordmd, speakers and shaker. I love this game but don't know the rules very well yet. I have one possible issue and that is that it seems to want to be in constant multiball. Not sure what is going on. Any ideas? Maybe a trough issue?

Edit: Figured my constant multiball issue. One of the headers on the trough opto pcb was almost completely desoldered off.

Here's my finished product.

IMG_20230430_195620942_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20230430_195620942_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20230430_195638220_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20230430_195638220_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20230430_195614545_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20230430_195614545_HDR (resized).jpg

#9529 11 months ago

Hello together, when I make the "destroy the ring shot" (2 balls) the one ball goes through the ring and the pinball flips out. So far so good. This balls which goes through the ring goes down the wireform and stops at the right ramp at the place where the physical ball lock for the two towers multiball is. Because the machine is missing a ball sfter that the pinball is looking for balls and then the countdown starts und the ball lock opens and the ball goes down. Is this normal that the ball always locks and the searching for balls starts?

#9530 11 months ago
Quoted from flipper73:

Is this normal that the ball always locks and the searching for balls starts?

Not normal.

In the settings you can turn on "single ball DTR (destroy the ring)". Give that a try and see if things work normally.

Also, there is a switch in the ball tunnel behind the backbox that frequently acts up. That switch is only used for DTR, so it may be the issue.

#9531 11 months ago

fuse was blown for my ring magnet when I got my 2003. I put a 4A slow blow in, it lasted a couple of games. Put another one in, lasted another few games. cheap amazon fuses. I need to put in a PBL order. Should I just go up to a 5A fuse? Is there anything I should check before I do that?

Here's a pic after 3 mode starts. can tell its already gotten pretty hot:

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#9532 11 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

...art blades from pinballife... The sillyoldelf ones... I didn't see a cut out for the hinge bolts on the blades.

The cutouts for the hinge bolt are there. Look closely. Remove the black hinge bolt covers from you machine. After installation of the new art blades, you can put the art blade hole cutout art over the hinge bolt. So, when finished, you will have art over the bolt, but you can peel the circular decal cutout off if you ever need to remove the hinge.
Terry.

#9533 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballlife:

The cutouts for the hinge bolt are there. Look closely. Remove the black hinge bolt covers from you machine. After installation of the new art blades, you can put the art blade hole cutout art over the hinge bolt. So, when finished, you will have art over the bolt, but you can peel the circular decal cutout off if you ever need to remove the hinge.
Terry.

Thanks. I got them installed yesterday. I had done it the exact way you described. The only issue is the left side art blade keeps pulling off the wood, it's the last 4 inches of it towards the back. I keep pushing it down but the adhesive isn't really that sticky. Wondering if there is a specific glue I could use on that to keep it down.

#9534 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballlife:

The cutouts for the hinge bolt are there. Look closely. Remove the black hinge bolt covers from you machine. After installation of the new art blades, you can put the art blade hole cutout art over the hinge bolt. So, when finished, you will have art over the bolt, but you can peel the circular decal cutout off if you ever need to remove the hinge.
Terry.

Oh, and by the way these art blades are beyond beautiful....

#9535 10 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Not normal.
In the settings you can turn on "single ball DTR (destroy the ring)". Give that a try and see if things work normally.
Also, there is a switch in the ball tunnel behind the backbox that frequently acts up. That switch is only used for DTR, so it may be the issue.

I played with 1-Ball DTR. Everything works normal. The Ball goes through the Ring, the pinball freaks out and the Ball goes down the wireform. The ball locks just for one second and it opens and the ball makes his way down.
Only with 2-Ball DTR the ball stays locked on the right side and the machine starts to search for balls.

the switch in the ball tunnel works fine.

#9536 10 months ago

Anyone have any suggestions? I tried a bit of heat tonight from a hair dryer and just tried pressing it back down. It keeps bubbling back up. I did clean beforehand. I didn't use the wet method or any other adhesives, I just cleaned and put them on. If they keep bubbling worse I'll probably just remove them I suppose. It's a shame as they are quite amazing to look at.

20230504_203655 (resized).jpg20230504_203655 (resized).jpg
#9537 10 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone have any suggestions? I tried a bit of heat tonight from a hair dryer and just tried pressing it back down. It keeps bubbling back up. I did clean beforehand. I didn't use the wet method or any other adhesives, I just cleaned and put them on. If they keep bubbling worse I'll probably just remove them I suppose. It's a shame as they are quite amazing to look at.[quoted image]

I had that on the left as well. Super glue and now its fine.

#9538 10 months ago
Quoted from glpinball:

I had that on the left as well. Super glue and now its fine.

In the same area towards the back? I was thinking of trying some type of glue but then I hesitated because if the entire thing just bubbles and falls off over time then it would be best if I bought some new art blades and applied the glue to the entire thing?

#9539 10 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone have any suggestions? I tried a bit of heat tonight from a hair dryer and just tried pressing it back down. It keeps bubbling back up. I did clean beforehand. I didn't use the wet method or any other adhesives, I just cleaned and put them on. If they keep bubbling worse I'll probably just remove them I suppose. It's a shame as they are quite amazing to look at.[quoted image]

Did you apply using the wet method?
I applied mine using the dry method and there is zero adhesive release.

#9540 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballlife:

Did you apply using the wet method?
I applied mine using the dry method and there is zero adhesive release.

No I didn't use any water or anything.

#9541 10 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

In the same area towards the back? I was thinking of trying some type of glue but then I hesitated because if the entire thing just bubbles and falls off over time then it would be best if I bought some new art blades and applied the glue to the entire thing?

Same area

#9543 10 months ago
Quoted from toberlindacher:

Maybe want to spray some 3M 77 adhesive on it. Works great.
amazon.com link »

I just bought some, I'll give it a try.

#9544 10 months ago

Does anyone know were I can buy the free standing path of the dead figures?

#9545 10 months ago
Quoted from dannunz:

Does anyone know were I can buy the free standing path of the dead figures?

Pretty much everyone used the AOME figures (which are from the same line as the figures that came in the pin). Same for any other figures people add.

These are toys from 20 years ago, so some have gotten expensive. Especially when pinball people go and buy up a bunch.

eBay is the best place to find. At least in the USA

ebay.com link: itm

#9546 10 months ago

Does anyone have a cliffy set they are willing to let go for LOTR? Cliffy is 6 months back ordered.

Or maybe recommend a alternative

#9547 10 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Some quick opinions...
Just got LOTR. Mine is very untouched, no mods and incandescent bulbs.
Comet kit for full RGB lights with the LED OCD board?
Color DMD or LCD?
Speaker upgrade?
Mirror blades or art blades? I think these looked great - https://www.pinballlife.com/lord-of-the-rings-art-blades.html
Anyone care to share their opinions I'd love to hear it. First time owning an LOTR.

I just installed these art blades over the weekend.

https://www.wizardmod.com/product-page/the-lord-of-the-rings-pinball-wizblades

By far the coolest ones, IMO. Love how the progression of the scene lines up with the various playfield features (I.e. the section of art blade that lines up with path of the dead is the green part). I also installed official Stern art blades on my Godzilla recently, and these LOTR ones were of equal quality and super easy to install. Took about 2 weeks to get here and were easy to order with my credit card.

#9548 10 months ago
Quoted from dannunz:

Does anyone know were I can buy the free standing path of the dead figures?

Here's an option for cheap. They glow nicely.
https://www.reapermini.com/search/green%20wraith/latest/77097

#9549 10 months ago

FINALLY joined the club over the weekend, now on the search for the Palantir Eye of Sauron and Path of the Dead mods, ColorDMD in the future.

#9550 10 months ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

FINALLY joined the club over the weekend, now on the search for the Palantir Eye of Sauron and Path of the Dead mods, ColorDMD in the future.

You may have to make your own POTD. The acrylic plates seem to be readily available, but you’ll probably need to source the figures on your own. They were made by a company called Play Along. eBay search “play along army of the dead” and you should find some.

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