Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Took glass and speaker panel out tonight, put back in now I don’t have anything on color dmd. Didn’t disconnect anything and dmd board “done” led is lit. I can see settings to adjust and that lotr is loaded to it in settings. Reseated ribbons just in case but still nothing, any suggestions?
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Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Still looking for help with this, thought the rest of the game was working correctly but tried to start a game tonight and it’s just makes a clicking noise through the speakers, can’t see the screen to see what the error is

Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Fuses are good, think I can get into diagnostics but can’t see what I’m doing because dmd is out.

Quoted from DragonLord:

I love the art blades btw. I just picked those same ones up and am just waiting for the opportunity to install them.

Quoted from ryandimx:

Be careful. they are very thin compared to other blades.

Quoted from ryandimx:

Does anyone have a link to the hockey puck that goes under the rings LEDs to stop the light from bleeding into the other rings?

Quoted from blizz81:

I feel like blades have to be thin on LOTR - man, it seems like tight clearance on both sides lifting the PF. I got a set of these blades to install at the end of my teardown/shop, and got a pair of art blade protectors for once they’re on.

Quoted from jazc4:

I just got one of those. Let me look to see where I got it. I hope to install it this weekend.
EDIT- Pinball Life $40

Quoted from jlbintn:

Didn't see it under game specific parts, you got a link to the part? Or a name to search. Hockey puck isn't getting it

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Not sure how you missed it, it's definitely under LOTR game specific parts: https://www.pinballlife.com/light-puck-for-lord-of-the-rings.html

Quoted from jlbintn:

Has anybody ever tried to put a post on this spot on the POTD mini playfield? I am guessing that the ball drops on to Arwen would be reduced significantly.
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Speaking of the POTD, at the back of the playfield, where that plastic has a tab that has to be inserted into the back panel. After I got the slope where I wanted it to be, balls started hanging between the top post and Orthanc, where even rocking the game a bit wouldn't get it to roll out. It has always done this, but not as often as it did once I made the adjustment to the legs.
I came up with what I call the five cent solution.
Literally, a nickel sandwiched between that plastic edge and the lip it rests on. It's snug, but it is only a short term fix. It will do until I come up with a more expensive and permanent solution.
Thinking about shorter spacer posts on the cabinet edge. Anybody found a way to avoid that issue, at least most of the time?

Quoted from jlbintn:

Yeah, I knew you wouldn't be able to see the screen, was just wondering what else might not be working. I guess a quick and dirty would be to remove the translite and power the game up and check the main board flashes. Or just to see that the game is booting up properly. Sorry for asking what might seem to be irrelevant questions, but.... are you using an NVRAM on the main board or are you still on batteries?

Quoted from jazc4:

I just got one of those. Let me look to see where I got it. I hope to install it this weekend.
EDIT- Pinball Life $40

Quoted from Jkush18:

Just installed it on mine and it came out great. I would suggest using the new standoffs included so you can really dial in the ring illumination.
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Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Nvram has been installed for years, sounds like I was able to move around in the service menu. Took cpu off and inspected, no damage, took all fuses out, verified all are working. All the leds on boards I see appear to stay constantly lit

Quoted from Jkush18:

Just installed it on mine and it came out great. I would suggest using the new standoffs included so you can really dial in the ring illumination.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Nvram has been installed for years, sounds like I was able to move around in the service menu. Took cpu off and inspected, no damage, took all fuses out, verified all are working. All the leds on boards I see appear to stay constantly lit

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Have you tried completely disconnecting the color dmd and see if the game boots? Do you still have the original dmd? You could install that and see if anything changes. You would need to follow the color dmd instructions to get the wiring correct.(high voltage vs. 5 vdc).
When you originally took off your backglass and speaker panel, what did you do? What was the reason for taking those off?
One more thing, I've seen whitestars not boot due to a bad backbox lamp, starter, or transformer.

Quoted from Iamthelaw:

I was going to install a flasher strip that mounts on the back of the game and bottom of the cabinet. Never got that far, once I realized I lost power to the dmd I started looking into that. I have lighted speakers and upgraded speakers so it’s particularly tight in the bottom right side of backbox so maybe something got pinched or shorted but I don’t see any signs of that and ive taken it out plenty of times with no issue. I put in an old dmd from a b/w game I had but nothing came up on dmd

Quoted from KING-HENRY:

It doesn't sound like a DMD issue to me..sounds more like a fuse/and/or harness issue. Please test all the fuses out of the cuircut (fuses can look and test fine, in cuircut!)...even check the main fuse at the transformer. Then test continuity on the wires AND connectors going to the DMD..sometimes the connectors get pulled out from the seats of the wires (and in your case, this stretching could have done this). That's about all I can give you at this point..Chris Hibler is a good repair guy if you end up having board issues.

Quoted from briyau15:

Is the Consolation Balrog LOTR game adjustment 34 the one to control whether the Balrog blocks the ring path? If so I should turn to No to disable I presume?

Quoted from KING-HENRY:

Please test all the fuses out of the cuircut (fuses can look and test fine, in cuircut!)...even check the main fuse at the transformer.

Quoted from DragonLord:

I love the art blades btw. I just picked those same ones up and am just waiting for the opportunity to install them.

Quoted from Ranpastrana:

Fresh out of the oven art blades. They look soo good.
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Quoted from pinballlife:

Link to purchase?

Quoted from pinballlife:

The ad won't let me purchase the pre-order for some reason. That's too bad. I really want these on my machine.

Quoted from Ranpastrana:

Fresh out of the oven art blades. They look soo good.
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Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

CAVE TROLL MULTIBALL?
BASH THE BALROG?
So, long story short, after a year and a half with my pin I just discovered a whole new set of features that were turned off by the factory so far as I can tell with my machine. There is an option in the menu for "Cave troll sequence". What the hell is this? It was off by default on mine, but after turning it on there is a whole new sequence with new graphics at the beginning of the Fellowship Multiball. "They have a Cave Troll!". I also changed the mystery from the default hard to medium, and I now get awarded "bash the ballrog" with a score countdown for hitting the balrog randomly in the middle of the game. I've only gotten in a few games so far but there are a few other nuggets. Have not gotten to "destroy the ring" but mine has always been a 1 ball feature where apparantly this can be a 2 ball feature? Excited to find some new stuff on the pin after all this time.

Quoted from pinballlife:

The ad won't let me purchase the pre-order for some reason. That's too bad. I really want these on my machine.

Quoted from Ranpastrana:

Fresh out of the oven art blades. They look soo good.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from DrWaz:

We’re they as easy as this video shows to install?

Quoted from DrWaz:

I have the ones in the picture for LOTR but I have hesitant to try them by myself as I didn’t want to ruin them.

Quoted from blizz81:

How is Gandalf mounted on his plastic? Trying to remove the plastic - I took the hex standoffs off but the plastic is still tight on that side / feels like I’m gonna snap it if I try to pull it up over those 2 screws any harder. Seems the front of the foot of the Gandalf plastic isn’t mounted but guessing maybe a screw on the back?
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Quoted from jlbintn:I just had that piece off, to make access for cleaning easier. It was on snugly, and I had to jiggle it a bit. Those two mounting posts are secured under the playfield. If they work loose over time, and they can and will, the plastic is having more of the burden of holding them in the correct position, or alignment, as it were. This will make it harder to get off, especially if that piece has never been removed in the almost twenty year life of the machine. I had to correct this type of issue on both of the sling plastics on mine. They came off hard, but once I re-tightened the posts from under the playfield, they popped right on with no effort. I did not have to tighten the right side posts, they were still solid, however.com the left side, especially the upper post.... was pretty loose. This also had the added effect of increased chatter from that sling during game play, which tightening eliminated.
See if you have any slop in the posts, by trying to move one with your fingers. It doesn't take a lot of force, and if there is movement I wouldn't be surprised if you could get the plastic off quite easily from the post that has the slop. Gandalf is mounted directly to the plastic with a small zip tie. It may have never been off, the game is close to twenty years old, has been played, moved around, etc. Stuff changes and works its way loose.
Take your time and don't be afraid to put a small amount of elbow grease into getting it off. The biggest problem you may run into is if it pops free suddenly and other stuff in the area gets blasted by an elbow or the side of a wrist or crap like that. I hate when that happens
The plastics that came with the game, at least in my experience, are pretty tough.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Quoted from jlbintn:

I just had that piece off, to make access for cleaning easier. It was on snugly, and I had to jiggle it a bit. Those two mounting posts are secured under the playfield. If they work loose over time, and they can and will, the plastic is having more of the burden of holding them in the correct position, or alignment, as it were. This will make it harder to get off, especially if that piece has never been removed in the almost twenty year life of the machine. I had to correct this type of issue on both of the sling plastics on mine. They both came off hard, but the right side was fairly normal, didn't take a lot of effort. The left side sling posts, especially the upper.... were pretty loose. This also had the added effect of increased chatter from that sling during game play, which tightening eliminated.

See if you have any slop in the posts, by trying to move one with your fingers. It doesn't take a lot of force, and if there is movement I wouldn't be surprised if you could get the plastic off quite easily from the post that has the slop. Gandalf is mounted directly to the plastic with a small zip tie. It may have never been off, the game is close to twenty years old, has been played, moved around, etc. Stuff changes and works its way loose.
Take your time and don't be afraid to put a small amount of elbow grease into getting it off. The biggest problem you may run into is if it pops free suddenly and other stuff in the area gets blasted by an elbow or the side of a wrist or crap like that. I hate when that happens
The plastics that came with the game, at least in my experience, are pretty tough.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:

Woohoo! Get to install these tonight![quoted image]