It's likely the spinner switch isn't sensitive enough. When you manually turn the spinner slowly by hand does it register in switch test? It should.

I would adjust or better yet replace the spinner switch.

Oh cool. Thanks. I might wait to see how you do yours first so I have an example to go on

The ball goes out of the front and back at random based and how the magnet rocks it to get it moving again after the pause in play from the start of mode animation.

Need some help please. I'm currently cleaning up my LOTR and removed Balrog. The part the arrow is pointing to is actually broken. I can't find a part number. It's the part that the screw screws into, holding the mounting bracket to Balrog.

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I would just epoxy it back into the Balrog. It comes installed as one unit. Gonna be the same part if you find one, unless the internal threads on yours are stripped out? And now the Balrog hole is reamed out anyway.

Marco has the Balrog in stock for $110 so try fixing yours first.

It seems like spinner switch is the problem thanks. It is not registering slow spins. It is only registering when it is spinning fast. Even then it misses the first 1 or 2 spins and only starts registering spins once it really gets going around. I am guessing delaying the magnet to turn on until it has already spun a couple times. Ordered a new switch to see if that fixes the problem.

And 99.95 at PBL. Definitely find a way to repair that!

Something like this might work. Epoxy it in place? I'm assuming your old piece has more wrong with it than it just came loose?

https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973209582-Coupling/dp/B00L1L5T6W/ref=sr_1_1

https://www.mcmaster.com/couplings/thread-size~6-32/low-strength-steel-coupling-nuts-9/

I have the same issue which I haven’t fixed yet. Found relevant posts in this thread or perhaps elsewhere on Pinside that were helpful. Verify if threaded part is stripped and use a tap & die set to fix. It seems like the reason that part came loose is due to a misaligned thread (at least for me) - this caused the screw to get stuck and then the whole damn thing came out!. Once that is taken care of, it just needs to be glued back into Balrog as mentioned above.

OR - try what LOTR_breath just posted; that could be easier. Tks!

Thank you for the replies. This is exactly was happened Williams95. The main problem is that when I tried to fix the thread, the receiving stud broke in half.

Haven’t seen this written in a while; if you hit both flippers when the ball is in the ring, the magnet will disengage the ball.

I’m sure it’s been said before, but Gandalf on Horseback with lit staff is a great mod. For 65 bucks ($25 for the figure on eBay and $40 for the staff from Lermods) my LOTR looks 25% classier.

Also, I was today years old when I realized that ring hits accrue elf rings toward relighting Mode Start. Feel like it’s going to make TABA a little more consistently attainable.

Nope, no LE flyer just the one regular version. I do have a German version of the flyer here: https://nypinball.com/flyers/lord-of-the-ringsthe/

Curious...
Was looking in the menu settings as I'd like to decrease the ball kick out strength from the trough. I do have the protector there on the side of the shooter lane for the rather strong ball kick out. So the game itself is protected, my ball kick out just rather robust (not dissimilar from other LOTRs that I have owned in the past)
Am I just over looking it in the menu? Has anyone found a setting for this, or is there not one for this game?
Thanks

It is there. I reduced mine. During multiball, two balls were almost on top of each other coming out into the shooter lane. I think it is in coil setting in adjustments.

I'm almost positive that Whitestar didn't have any coil adjustments. SAM system introduced a few. We didn't get lots of coil strength adjustments until Spike came along.

There is standard adjustment 33 but that affects ALL coils, not individual ones. Soft, normal, hard. Soft is - 12.5%, hard is + 12.5%. This is mainly there to compensate for line voltage conditions.

Thank you for the responses.
I'll at least make sure I'm on normal and not "hard" coil strength, but by the normal behavior of the remaining coils, I'd bet I'm on "normal" coil strength at that #33 adjustment menu.

All true. The coil that puts the ball in the shooter lane is a lot weaker now. All the others do not appear to have changed. May be because of their function.

Got my high score number 1 today after a year and 4 games after I installing DIY flipper coils. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-amazon-flipper-coil-kit-25-35-no-tools-5-minutes#post-7028791

Actually beat the Balrog for the first time! Have been working on cradling balls during multiball.

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For anyone interested, this product worked very well for adding a threaded insert into Balrog.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015CAPAPM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01

I've been checking pretty regularly since this post. Any updates on this? APB_Enterprises

Perfect - thank you; I am going to try that!

Ive been checking as well and have not yet seen them come up for sale.

I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction. My ring seems to work fine for the mode starts and ring frenzy. But when I get to destroy the ring i can’t seem to end the mode. It starts, I hit the shots, then today, I hit the ring 3 times, the ball went through and it didn’t register. The spinner was hit each time. Frustrating to say the least. Anyone have any ideas?

There is a switch only used for destroy the ring like 57 or something. Anyway it's on top of the metal tunnel connecting the ring to the wire form wiggly ramp. You need to bend the switch so the ball registers the switch on the way through. Easiest way to work on it is pull out the playfield as far as it goes, then prop up the back end with a board across the cabinet underneath the playfield so you can easily reach everything. Took a few tries at bending before I got it. If you are too aggressive you can even stop the ball rolling. Careful to not snap the arm off the switch. I press and hold the base where it connects to the switch body.

I did take the switch off to adjust it.

Unbelievable, a switch for one special mode….

Thanks I’ll check it out and report back

The spinner is also part of the detection process. I had the same problem and in my case the spinner switch wasn’t registering.

My Balrog LED flasher will work in tests (coil and flasher) but not in the game. I'm actually only testing the flasher during the beginning of the game. Balrog should light up during the initial movement, correct? Is there a setting I'm missing?

Balrog switch and light will behave strange if the wires start to crack. The movement does a lot of stress to the wires... Just an option to check. Fortunately not expensive to fix

I originally thought this could be the problem but the flasher behavior continues with a new harness.

Anyone know where to acquire the cool little amber led ring mod that goes within the speaker light kits. The speaker light kit is amber and in the background of the speaker light is a small centered led circular pattern of leds (mimicking another ring).

I had a brand new Rottendog board as my spare. Installed it but have the exact same behavior as before. The Balrog flasher will work in test mode but not while playing a game. Any ideas?

I'm not really sure I have seen what you are describing. Would you possibly just be seeing the reflection of the light strips on the inner cone of the speaker?

Forgive the dust on my model speaker that I have been using since 2012. It's pretty noticeable in the pic with the grill removed.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

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Hi Guys, a video of a topper I made at the request of a client

To answer ADROCK in reference to post 2446
I started with the figures and put lights and wires in them to light up interactively with the game's path of the dead lights. I did this by jumping the Molex connectors for the PoTD light board by making a y connector. Below are pictures of my connection, a rough mock up I built to make sure it was going to work, and the connectors I bought. My issue was getting the Diodes in the correct direction and on the correct lead to avoid light/power bledback.

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Sorry if I missed it, but wow, that's an amazing idea and good looking execution... I sure would love to see a short video of that in action. Excellent work, man!

Beautiful work, Franck, it's gorgeous!!

So your second design you change the filament just after printing the first few layers ? Or do you use a dual extruder ?

I'm not sure also what you mean by "file it", you seem to have modified your design to accomodate without filing the 3D part, am I right ?

I saw a mod in the speaker lights on a video where the inner circle looked like the lights were spiraling around as programmed that way, Maybe it was an illusion.

Hi everyone,

So I want to have the Destroy the Ring insert flasher be a real monster when it comes up. I got a 22SMD flasher from Comet, and it does the trick to a degree, but considering that the way it's designed is that the lighting harness is for the insert light, and then the flasher bayonet is just sort of mounted kind of above and further away from the insert. I'm not getting the full effect, particularly considering the 22SMD is a directional flasher rather than a standard flasher bulb that gives off light in all directions.

Any ideas as to how I can get this thing mounted in a more practical eye-melting direction, or at the very least closer to the insert, ideally without drilling any holes in the bottom of the playfield?

Thanks as always!

Evan

Thanks! Very helpful. For some background, I had made my own mod but wanted to make a harness and didn’t want to reinvent the wheel and I saw that he referenced making a Y adapter so I thought I’d ask him about it. Appreciate the posting here so others can benefit!

You missed it because it was about 6000 posts ago!

First question: you print first layers with transparent, after that black. Don't need dual extruder, just set change color in slicer software(I use prusa). You could use dual extruder anyway, but it's not needed. I think it looks more "natural" that way because the transparent filament will diffuse light. If you are not sure, use single color version. It's nice, too.

Second: You have to cut out your print the right way on your Pin (or have to modify the stl file to fit your pinball machine). It's because the Inserts are not glued in the same way on any machine and they are not round, have some blocks on the sides. You can use a dremel or something else for cutout. Be careful, don't push any force on the insert while mounting.

I finally figured out this particular problem. Hopefully this can help someone in the future. If anyone else observes this Balrog behavior, it was directly related to switch #32. This switch is located on the Balrog assembly underneath the playfield. I finally realized that I wouldn't hear Balrog's roar when the flasher would not work. This was due to a flaky switch #32. Now working properly with new switch installed.

i would try an 8 smd flex flasher .
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/8smd-flex-flashers

Officially a new owner. Will pickup next weekend.
Completely stock machine. 1800 audits.

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