Perfect. Is there a difference between standard-lord and the LE-Version? I mean is it possible to use These coils for both versions?

I believe there are different versions, with or without diode for the two models

Not sure if anyone is interested but I just finished my "refresh" of my LotRs. It was in pretty good shape but I cleanup the playfield and did some minor touch-up before clear-coating it. I also got bronze plated ramps, sword, and wireforms from Pinball Plating. The major thing I thought I would highlight is I ended up doing the alternate cabinet decals from Retrorefurbs and thought it came out great. I am normally kind of a purist and like things original but I was never too crazy about the original artwork and really liked these. The armor is just black powder coated. It seemed like any other color was just too much in comparison to the decals.

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Wow! Looks stunning!!!

Got my sillyoldelf art blades in they look killer. Thank you!

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Agreed! They are the best option for this title imo.

Those look great!

Got to Valinor again last night. Had been a while. Knew I shouldn't start a game around 10:30pm. it took well over an hour. On a work night. Ugggh.

Congrats! LOTR is one of those games where I don't hit the start button unless I have at least an hour. Most of my LOTR games are much shorter, but in case I make it that far I don't want to feel the pressure of time.

Are those still being sold? I didn’t see anything on the market a couple of months ago and reached out to him directly but don’t recall receiving a reply.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1073-sillyoldelf-mods/00803-lotr-lord-of-the-rings-custom-side-decals-

Hey, looking for a potd mod everywhere I look it’s either sold out or no stock, does anyone know if someone is still making them or is it easier to just source the parts myself and diy it ?
Thanks for any info

Any ideas to make this game play harder/shorter? Looking to include this in a tournament so I can’t have 1 hour long games.

Here’s what I’ve got so far:
- lighting flippers
- removed outlane posts completely
- removed inlane rubbers
- pitch at 7 degrees
- installed thicker post rubbers on the sword ramp so it’s extremely hard to back hand it all day to get to MB.
- obviously a good naphtha/wax cleaning combo to get it playing fast.
- lowered the ball saves for MB, removed them completely at the start of a ball
- tight tilt

Any other ideas or things I’m missing?

I have a prototype in the process right now with Mr_Tantrum. Waiting on my lighting solution from Comet and will post pics. Stay tuned.

https://www.kimballspinballs.com/lord_of_the_rings/

The site/link is active at Kimball's Pinball.
If you contact them from their site, they are very pleasant to interact with, responsive and detailed and have been around for a while.
This POTD mod that they sell is expensive, but they've got everything that you would need for a suped up POTD. I believe that they ask that you send in your stock POTD, and they basically do everything and then mail it back to you ready to go and plug and play.
Ultimately did not use this service, and instead created my own using some acrylic that I had around, elevated on posts and used double-sided sticky tape to hold the figures. I had used matrix system lighting from Comet to light under each of the figures, but ultimately decided to leave them unlit per my own visual preferences.

I just made my own. For $450 I better be getting a color dmd, pinsound, custom sculpted Lior mod, an amazing topper, or something lol.

My technique was to use the POTD as a template. I disassembled the upper pf and used it as a guide with a pattern bit on my router table. Bought the lighting tap, green led, a few posts from Terry and some longer machine screws from the hardware store (where I also got my plastic sheet from). In the end I think it cost me about $18 plus the figure and the plastic looks like it was there from Stern imo.

I ran a tourney and included my LOTR. Same set up as yours minus the fat posts and lightning flippers. It was fine. Still one of the longer playing games but nothing that really held up the tournament.

The only other thing I could suggest: The tilt mech is notoriously sketchy on Whitestar games. You might consider changing it to one tilt warning. At two tilt warnings, no matter how tight , your players most likely could make a huge move and only get one or two warnings.

That’s a great point. I’ve noticed this with my tilt Bob as well. I keep my games on sliders since they’re on cement floors in my garage. I’ll be sure to set it to just 1 tilt thanks!

Yeah Kimballs pinballs, or there is another selling a DIY kit on Pinside, check the marketplace linked to the game.

Or make your own. Pinbits PoTD plastic + comet star post bulbs + comet matrix wiring = cheap. I’ll probably do this, just deciding how to hook into the bulbs, will likely use wire taps. Don’t forget the 1 1/4 inch narrow posts.

Perhaps sand the tilt ring a little to confirm it is shinny and not tarnished for good continuity.

FYI Pinbits is no longer a thing, you'll have to source your mounting surface elsewhere. I just used a pig tail 555 socket and mounted a green LED into the back of the figure but I only put one in the back corner because I wanted to block as little as possible of the POTD.

has anyone an idea where an Arwen plastic in a good printed quality is available?

https://www.pinball.center/de/shop/flipperspezifisch/the-lord-of-the-rings/7205/arwen-plastic-fuer-the-lord-of-the-rings

Please see my thread above. Robdutch said it is not the best quality. That is why I asked for another idea.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=803-5000-80-03N

This one any better? Remember, these plastic & PF images weren't exactly HD 20+ years ago when they rolled off the line.

thank you. has anyone experience with this plastic?

PM me.

Ok, here is a Path of the Dead mod solution if anyone is interested. This was done in partnership with @mr_tantrum.

Basically we designed and cut an acrylic piece to sit above the path, designed a laser etch pattern of skulls and a cobblestone path which was etched onto the acrylic. Then I used Comet Matrix lighting to light the figures. Matrix Star Post lights in green were mounted to the back side of the acrylic with gorilla clear mounting tape and then the figures were attached to the top side with the same mounting tape.

I also backlit the original path with a Matrix 20 SMD strip from Comet.

Overall I’m very happy. If anyone is interested in getting the acrylic path, either laser etched or not please PM me or @mr_tantrum.

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We also have come up with a cut acrylic piece to go over the Legolas ramp as an air ball protector. This is screwed down by one post and has double sided tape on the remainder to lock it down. Again, if interested please send me or Mr_Tantrum a PM.

Sorry I meant the POTD plastic that’s sold here in the Marketplace linked to the game. It can be ordered with slots for the figures and wire ties

Very cool!

1) did you have to cover some of the Star post LEDs in each post light? Someone who did that previously said it was too bright with all of the post LEDs exposed.

2) can you describe how you wired the lights to the game?

Thx

Sure, the Comet Matrix series of lamps has alligator clips that will clip onto lamp sockets. Basically I used a three way splitter and some of the matrix extensions to wire it to a nearby GI bulb under the playfield. Others have done things like wire each figure to a lamp in the path of the dead plastic on thr backboard, I chose to go with an on all the time solution. I might play around with wiring to the controlled lamps as well, we’ll see.

As for covering any of the Star post LEDs I did not. I placed the figures so that the LEDs would be covered by the figures if looking from the players perspective. I don’t think they’re too bright at all, the picture makes them look brighter than they do in real life.

Im having an issue with the ball lock peg releasing too many balls from the physical lock. Is there a way to adjust how long the peg disengages/re-engages? Or is it a different problem entirely?

No way to adjust that. Maybe there is an issue with one of the switches for the locked balls? You can test each of those in the switch test. Test them with a ball to see if a ball would actuate the switch.

Any linked to the listing or what is your profile name? thanks

Excited that Andrew is going to make these again. I've been checking on eBay since his recent post...still nothing yet that I've noticed.

Thanks for the info.

Did anyone ever end up trying the Comet UV star post lights? Previously in the thread a couple people have claimed that the Path characters should be UV reactive, but I don’t think we ever got confirmation (and I left my blacklight in college!)

Installed my lit staff for Gandalf, which Lermods made for me in warm white.
I think it looks great along with the surrounding incandescent lighting...and Saruman seems to be a little jealous about it.

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Anybody have directions or some pics of how they have the switch for the Legolas ramp soldered on? Mines from an early run and it was so tight that over time the momentum from the balls have broken the solder. I've noticed some probably older run look much different so looking for the best option to repair it.

Here is a pic from one of my posts a while back where my wire was broken but virbating to make contact. Mine is an early run. White goes to top and I threw a new switch and diode on it after the pic

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Here is a pic of mine, hopefully this is helpful.

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Morgoth00 ChipScott Perfect that's what I needed. The cable coming up was under the path of the dead holding it in place so I don't think it could flex when i hit the ramp. I'll move that when I fix it.

I blew the transistor that drives the left flipper. It is listed as: STP20N10L but I can seem to find it anywhere. Does anyone know an acceptable replacement? I tried to pick one out from Digikey based on specification but when I replaced it, it doesn't work.

Original Spec:

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Replacement Spec:

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Go for IRF540 instead. They are 30 amp instead of 20 amp and plentiful, next day on amazon.

Perfect, thanks.

IRL540 is the most common replacement. I've used them many times before. If it didn't work, it's either bad or you have other problems.

While IRL540 is a typical replacement, IRL540 would not resolve my issue. Stern told me they didn't like those and to use a P20N10 instead. Those were hard to find and IRF540 is the same as P20N10 but with a higher amp rating. No problems since

Anyone knows if there was a flyer for the LE Modell? I searched in the internet and found only the flyer of the first run.