(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

7 years ago


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#8251 84 days ago
Quoted from TheShaft:

Hope this helps.
[quoted image]

Thanks, looks like one connector is not connected to anything, can you trace that back and tell me where it’s connected on the other end?

This one

FEBBEBE5-447D-4C21-834E-7C4B8D7842B6 (resized).jpeg
#8252 84 days ago
Quoted from adrock:

Thanks, looks like one connector is not connected to anything, can you trace that back and tell me where it’s connected on the other end?
This one
[quoted image]

That’s the standard DMD connector, which is not use when a color DMD is installed.

#8253 84 days ago
Quoted from TheShaft:

What speakers did you use? I have a speaker light kit on the way and would be a good time to swap them out. Any spacers needed? I have an external sub so not looking to swap out cabinet speaker.
Also when it comes to the speaker light kit, what order has been preferred in stacking the grill, lights and the etched acrylic rings?

I used Flipper Fidelity speakers in all three pins. To me they are an improvement. LOTR was the most significant.

#8254 84 days ago

I just replaced the cabinet speaker with a Goldwood 802/4 woofer. I think it was a good improvement, adds a little depth to the sound. I was going to change the back box speakers but other threads said it doesn’t add much so I’ve been holding off.

#8255 84 days ago
Quoted from Dragon36:

I just replaced the cabinet speaker with a Goldwood 802/4 woofer. I think it was a good improvement, adds a little depth to the sound. I was going to change the back box speakers but other threads said it doesn’t add much so I’ve been holding off.

Some people may have better hearing capability. The backbox speakers are poor.

#8256 84 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

That’s the standard DMD connector, which is not use when a color DMD is installed.

Thanks. Now just need to know where that cable bundle connects on the other end if someone can help me out pls.

#8257 84 days ago
Quoted from adrock:

Thanks. Now just need to know where that cable bundle connects on the other end if someone can help me out pls.

That connector goes to CN2 on the display power supply board. It's in the top left corner of the backbox. This is according to the manual. I haven't physically looked on my game.

#8258 84 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

That connector goes to CN2 on the display power supply board. It's in the top left corner of the backbox. This is according to the manual. I haven't physically looked on my game.

Awesome thanks

Edit: works! Thx

#8259 83 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Some people may have better hearing capability. The backbox speakers are poor.

Do you have speakers you can recommend using? The stock speakers are 8 ohm which are tougher to find. 4 ohm car speakers should work if wired in series right?

#8260 82 days ago

Does anyone have spares of plastics -15 and -23?

#8261 82 days ago
Quoted from Dragon36:

Do you have speakers you can recommend using? The stock speakers are 8 ohm which are tougher to find. 4 ohm car speakers should work if wired in series right?

Pinball Life has Flipper Fidelity (FF-STN-8-WM-U) for $149.95. This is what I used.

#8262 82 days ago
Quoted from TheShaft:

Also when it comes to the speaker light kit, what order has been preferred in stacking the grill, lights and the etched acrylic rings?

The order that things are mounted is more important with some of the acrylic designs than others. The general rule is, the more light that can shine through the actual acrylic part of the design, the more important it is to NOT have the grill between the back of the design and the light source.

With the LotR design....the only part that is allowing light to shine though it is the small bits of etched lettering. That is not really a large enough area to make the grill being mounted directly behind it a deal breaker.

However.......if you have the grill mounted in the back of the lit area (between the light frame and the speaker) you will be lighting the grill back there and not the speaker. This give a much cleaner look.

So if you can....I would recommend: design, light frame, grill, speaker. You may not be able to have the speaker mounted directly behind the grill, depending on its tweeter and if it protrudes any. With some designs in that case I would say....just leave out the grill, but with the LotR design with a speaker with protruding tweeters ....I would go design, grill, light frame, speaker. As that design it is not that important to have the grill away from the back of the design.

This pic is of the optimal: design, light frame, grill, then speaker mounting.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

image2 (2) (resized).JPG
#8263 82 days ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

The order that things are mounted is more important with some of the acrylic designs than others. The general rule is, the more light that can shine through the actual acrylic part of the design, the more important it is to NOT have the grill between the back of the design and the light source.
With the LotR design....the only part that is allowing light to shine though it is the small bits of etched lettering. That is not really a large enough area to make the grill being mounted directly behind it a deal breaker.
However.......if you have the grill mounted in the back of the lit area (between the light frame and the speaker) you will be lighting the grill back there and not the speaker. This give a much cleaner look.
So if you can....I would recommend: design, light frame, grill, speaker. You may not be able to have the speaker mounted directly behind the grill, depending on its tweeter and if it protrudes any. With some designs in that case I would say....just leave out the grill, but with the LotR design with a speaker with protruding tweeters ....I would go design, grill, light frame, speaker. As that design it is not that important to have the grill away from the back of the design.
This pic is of the optimal: design, light frame, grill, then speaker mounting.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)
[quoted image]

Thanks for the rundown Doug. That pic is what I’m looking to achieve and why I choose your acrylic design over the others.

#8264 82 days ago

I take back what I said about the speakers. I went ahead and upgraded mine and they do make a noticeable improvement. Highly recommend.

#8265 82 days ago

Also got my side art blades installed finally
These are from WizardMod. They are great, the material is nice and thick making them super easy to install.

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#8266 82 days ago
Quoted from MaxAMillion:

I take back what I said about the speakers. I went ahead and upgraded mine and they do make a noticeable improvement. Highly recommend.

What speakers did you go with?

#8267 82 days ago
Quoted from Dragon36:

What speakers did you go with?

amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

Nothing fancy but much better than stock

#8268 82 days ago

Has anyone heard any word on the APB medium strength coils? I did send a message through eBay (where he had sold them from before), but haven't heard back.
I do hope he makes more.

#8269 81 days ago
Quoted from MaxAMillion:

amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
Nothing fancy but much better than stock

Cool thanks, I dropped that woofer in alone and I thought it was a great improvement over the stock one.

#8270 81 days ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

Has anyone heard any word on the APB medium strength coils? I did send a message through eBay (where he had sold them from before), but haven't heard back.
I do hope he makes more.

Post 8227 they heard from APB who stated they’d be making more when they’re not so busy. Hopefully that’s soon, I’d like a set too.

#8271 81 days ago

Need help
LOTR Sword Lock Doesn't work for me anymore.

Everytime the ball goes up the sword lock ramp and hits the 'Rail Ramp Exit' switch #22, it triggers the ball stop plunger to go down. The balls only lock when they bypass the switch via the Gimli vuk or the back curvy ramp.
The only work-a-round I found was to tape the switch closed, then the ball will lock, and if it's actually not supposed to lock yet, it will release a ball after a short delay.
I changed out the switch (I had to get a long straight one and bend it since the past is out of stock). That didn't help. I factory reset the game and that didn't help either.
Any idea why the locking logic is all messed up now?
I did replace the Gimli vuk switch, but I'm not sure if this issue happened before or after I changed it.

Some examples:

Thx

#8272 81 days ago

I don’t know for sure. Just some ideas to check..

1. Try the switches in the switch matrix to make sure one switch isn’t triggering another (bad diode)
2. Try wiggling/cleaning all the connectors on both the power and cpu/sound board. I’d also suggest reflowing solder on the cpu/sound board connectors, just to make sure.
3. Test the diode on the replaced switch.
4. Push/reseat the socketed chips on the CPU/sound board.

Good luck! Hope it is something simple.

PS - the first video is private.

#8273 81 days ago

Definitely put it into switch test and troubleshoot from there. You have a either got a switch triggering more than one switch, a switch not registering, or possibly that last switch is registering closed when it's open?

#8274 80 days ago

anyone have any flipper toppers they recommend? and or places to get gold trim?

#8275 76 days ago
Quoted from MegadethHangar18:

Hey anyone had any success up grading the sound system/speakers on LOTR's as I've read it can be a lot of mucking around to get it right as it's not as easy as plug and play due to matching the on board amplification/ohms/watts/impedance/frequency/hertz etc so just wondering if anyone knows of cost effective way of upgrading the sound but correctly?
I don't want to go with a Pinwhoofer system or anything like it as by the time $$$ is converted to US exchange rate plus shipping its gonna cost me around $800 to Australia.
One of these combo's will cost me around $170 Aus.
I was just looking at putting a set of KENWOOD KFC-S1066 4" 2 WAY SPEAKERS or JBL STAGE3 427F 4'' TWO-WAY in the back box and JBL STAGE 810 800W 8" SUBWOOFER in the bottom box or connect a separate external under the machine Sub ![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have pinsound in 2 games and upgraded speakers in almost all of them. If you have multiple games on you can't even tell. In a room full of games and music it's all just noise.

#8276 74 days ago
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:

anyone have any flipper toppers they recommend? and or places to get gold trim?

I just bought these, they were my favorite I could find.

ebay.com link: itm

Gold trim for what part of the machine are you looking for?

#8277 73 days ago

I have just found these coils in my box of parts, does anyone know who made these and were they for the right flipper only for more power?
2E46A677-31A8-4A73-BDF9-D9CDAE47C011 (resized).jpegC7A3AC56-2631-4CC6-9A0A-FF6FE5411AB7 (resized).jpeg

#8278 73 days ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

I have just found these coils with my box of parts, does anyone know who made these and we’re the for the right flipper only for more power? [quoted image][quoted image]

Those are flipper coils that should be on the game, medium powered. Some people think the high powered ones from PBL are the right ones but they are way too powerful and can break plastics.

A guy on eBay makes them and they are fantastic ! I’d put them on your game the next time you go to do a flipper rebuild, enjoy!

#8279 73 days ago

Joining the club soon! Stern dindt bring out an topper? If not, which one is the nicest?

#8280 72 days ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Joining the club soon! Stern dindt bring out an topper? If not, which one is the nicest?

Most revered is the McKee topper but it’s long out of print

#8281 72 days ago

Could someone post a high-resolution pic of the sticker in the head that talks about the fuses? Thanks in advance

#8282 72 days ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Joining the club soon! Stern dindt bring out an topper? If not, which one is the nicest?

Tilt Topper has awesome toppers. I bought this one from them...

IMG_2397 (resized).jpeg
#8283 72 days ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Joining the club soon! Stern dindt bring out an topper? If not, which one is the nicest?

Like my custom and interactive one

20210712_224023 (resized).jpg
#8284 72 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

Potential spoiler alert…
…but figure it’s fine since this game has been out for almost 20 years.
One month into ownership and just have to say this game is as good as I hoped it would be. Love the theme and still learning the gameplay as apparently after many games I thought I understood everything. However, a couple of nights ago I was pleasantly surprised to find out that my efforts against Saruman weren’t over after being sent to the top of the tower and the display showing me the “Gandalf vs. Saruman” total. One additional shot up the middle continued the journey. I tried to replicate it again but it looked like that additional shot changed to Merry’s. Does that shot rotate or was I not paying attention?
Are there any other episodes that have continued scenes after showing the episode’s total by making additional shots?

My guess would be that you have never beaten the mode and have just timed out every time prior to this. If

Quoted from adrock:

Could someone post a high-resolution pic of the sticker in the head that talks about the fuses? Thanks in advance

PXL_20220604_182301091.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20220604_182331672 (resized).jpg
#8285 71 days ago
Quoted from red-line:

My guess would be that you have never beaten the mode and have just timed out every time prior to this. If
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks

#8286 71 days ago

Can anyone recommend a particular subwoofer for this pin?

#8287 70 days ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Can anyone recommend a particular subwoofer for this pin?

Polk PSW10

#8288 70 days ago
Quoted from November:

Like my custom and interactive one [quoted image]

French here But I'll keep writing in english as a courtesy to others

Would you mind sharing the interactivity on this topper ?

And curious, was this done by yourself ?

#8289 70 days ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Joining the club soon! Stern dindt bring out an topper? If not, which one is the nicest?

This is the McKee topper with a bit extra I have on my machine.

QSS

LOTR Topper (resized).jpg
#8290 70 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

French here But I'll keep writing in english as a courtesy to others
Would you mind sharing the interactivity on this topper ?
And curious, was this done by yourself ?

#8291 70 days ago

Very cool!

Which Pinsound mix is that ?

#8292 70 days ago
Quoted from adrock:

Very cool!
Which Pinsound mix is that ?

Thanks morgoth00 for link video

It's a modified Wool Mix.

Quoted from Ashram56:

French here But I'll keep writing in english as a courtesy to others
Would you mind sharing the interactivity on this topper ?
And curious, was this done by yourself ?

Yes, all by myself. The lighting is controled by the raspberry pi "pinstadium", sorry i dont remember the name of it

#8293 69 days ago
Quoted from November:

Thanks morgoth00 for link video
It's a modified Wool Mix.

Yes, all by myself. The lighting is controled by the raspberry pi "pinstadium", sorry i dont remember the name of it

Pinduino?

#8294 69 days ago

Right sir !

#8295 68 days ago

question for the group.
Just picked up a Lord of the rings and was working on it yesterday. Amongst other things, I noticed that the center shot was not registering frodo (and also not able to start a mode with the center shot). Also, it appeared as though the magnet was not working.

For the magnet, I believe I got that sorted out with a blown fuse at f20, although it tended to want to kick the ball out back onto the playfield as opposed to let it hover within the magnet and be sent back (unless it was a super hard direct shot that went straight through). Maybe that is a consequence of the optos in front of the magnet not registering?

There is a switch in the back trough/subway that does register in test, but that does not seem to be associated with registering Frodo or modes (what does that switch register/what is it for, btw?).

Looking deeper it appears as though there are 2 optos in front of the magnet. On switch test, the optos do not appear to be registering (note, all other switches do seem to register in switch test). So I assume that it is these opto's that register frodo and initiate modes. Am I correct in that? I would assume this game needs new optos there. By the cursory look of these, they look like the standard cheap stern optos that work either as emitters and transmitters. I see there is a small little stern opto amplifier board fastened to the back of the back panel and it looks like those optos would plug in there (can someone confirm that, btw). I will pick up a couple of these optos from PBL or Marco, as it appears they have these, and exchange out these current optos and hope that fixes the issue....those optos do look like a PIA to get to, I assume I'm going to have to disassemble that center portion to get to that area.

Are there any other thoughts as to what this could be, or do we think this is simply an opto issue? Also, is there any particular advice when disassembling the center portion before I disassemble it to exchange these optos?
Thanks

#8296 68 days ago

Thanks for the details

So it's an arduino based solution which monitors the flasher/coils (does not monitor insert if I recall correctly). I have one lying around, might try it if i get a chance

Cheers

#8297 68 days ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

question for the group.
Just picked up a Lord of the rings and was working on it yesterday. Amongst other things, I noticed that the center shot was not registering frodo (and also not able to start a mode with the center shot). Also, it appeared as though the magnet was not working.
For the magnet, I believe I got that sorted out with a blown fuse at f20, although it tended to want to kick the ball out back onto the playfield as opposed to let it hover within the magnet and be sent back (unless it was a super hard direct shot that went straight through). Maybe that is a consequence of the optos in front of the magnet not registering?
There is a switch in the back trough/subway that does register in test, but that does not seem to be associated with registering Frodo or modes (what does that switch register/what is it for, btw?).
Looking deeper it appears as though there are 2 optos in front of the magnet. On switch test, the optos do not appear to be registering (note, all other switches do seem to register in switch test). So I assume that it is these opto's that register frodo and initiate modes. Am I correct in that? I would assume this game needs new optos there. By the cursory look of these, they look like the standard cheap stern optos that work either as emitters and transmitters. I see there is a small little stern opto amplifier board fastened to the back of the back panel and it looks like those optos would plug in there (can someone confirm that, btw). I will pick up a couple of these optos from PBL or Marco, as it appears they have these, and exchange out these current optos and hope fixes the issue....those optos do look like a PIA to get to, I assume I'm going to have to disassemble that center portion to get to that area.
Are there any other thoughts as to what this could be, or do we think this is simply an opto issue? Also, is there any particular advice when disassembling the center portion before I disassemble it to exchange these optos?
Thanks

The opto(s) by the magnet trigger Frodo and mode starts. The switch in the trough/subway is only used in Destroy the Ring when you need to hit all the way through.
Sounds like you need to verify if the opto is bad or if it's the wiring to the opto.

#8298 68 days ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

The opto(s) by the magnet trigger Frodo and mode starts. The switch in the trough/subway is only used in Destroy the Ring when you need to hit all the way through.
Sounds like you need to verify if the opto is bad or if it's the wiring to the opto.

Thank you very much for your response.
Makes sense that the back trough switch registers hits for destroy the ring. I appreciate you clarifying that!

The two optos that are there at the center shot in front of the magnet (at 11 and 5 o'clock) seem to be the basic standard stern optos with the two wires that come from them and end in a female two prong molex (and appear to attach to the opto amplifier board on the back, again, confirmation of that would be appreciated). I do see a red light coming from the 11 o'clock position opto, so am I thinking is that it may be the other opto that is not functioning well (but I suppose it might be either one or both that are not functioning well, or at least that is my assumption).

I've ordered two new optos and am hopeful that exchanging them will fix the issue. I agree that I do need to evaluate the wires coming from the current optos, so ultimately a disassembly of that center portion (with magnet) is going to be required one way and/or another. Seems that center portion is fastened to the back panel by a couple of big screws... I assume this is what I will need to remove in order to get that center portion out. Can anyone confirm that?
Thank you again.

#8299 68 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

Are the medium coils applicable for the LE versions also? I have an LE and feel like the flippers are pretty weak but thought I read somewhere that the LE shouldn’t need these special coils.

Sorry i do not know. But would also be interesting For me.

#8300 68 days ago

The difference is whether or not a diode is installed on the coil.

I'm hoping these come back in stock. Picked up my LOTR shortly after they went out of stock. It has the PBL coils in it and they're WAY too strong. Lord of the Airballs.

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