Just finished my highest scoring game to date.. I'm shaking No wizard mode yet.. I'm getting closer and closer..

This is what I managed to do this game:
-Completed 2 out of 3 multiballs, and played all 3 at least once
-Played all modes
-Completed there and back again
-Completed destroy the ring
-Recieved all gifts of elves and a 4 ball super ring frenzy after

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He's asking about the backglass only. But prices on pin-stuff is silly nowadays. I REALLY don't care for the LE backglass but I'm sure someone born yester

Would you pay $1000 for that backglass? I highly doubt it. Besides, Gandalf's junk really harms the price on that thing.
The idea that pinball games are investments and there are tons of rich pinball morons is an anomaly (not the norm) and isn't sustainable.

If you have a broken backglass on an LE then yes I am sure someone would pay that to keep the value of their game up.

For those that have pinsound, a new firmware version just came out. This version fixed my glitchy sjoend sound file.

Fuse F20 (4A slow blow) is broken again after a year of playing about 5 games a week. Not sure if the fuse blew because of fatigue/vibrations/age or if something else is up with my magnet

Anyone ever touch up their decals? Looking for suggestions for paint brands and techniques.

Not sure about touch up but you can get a brand new cab decal set for a reasonable price:

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/lord-of-the-rings-pinball-cabinet-decals/

I saw those. Does anyone have an opinion on how they look/feel compared to the originals. Hoping to go for touch up though as I’m more confident in my ability to do that than I am in my ability to strip the cabinet.

My sword lock plunger started acting up after a recent light cleaning of my machine. Intermittent on firing to where when there are two balls locked and I hit a ring shot, on return it counts as a third ball lock & starts multiball.

Other symptom is it has tried to release a locked ball, plunger goes down, but comes back up quickly. Game eventually sat with a sword lock malfunction.

Hand-testing the plunger, it seemed to catch some, and I noticed a little sleeve here that appears to be cracked. When I shifted that a bit, operation got smoother and the game was playing better. I assume this should look different? If so what is the original part / what do I replace with? Did a little bit of searching but no dice yet.

(Should note that I don’t see any sign of trouble with the switches in testing with 1/2/3 balls there)

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Playing a couple test games now, still operating ok after freeing up the plunger a bit. Have to say with a fresh clean & wax + coincidentally also finally installing the LOTR flipper coils (one of my coils was bulged out), this game plays violent. First time in many years I got a ball stuck here…

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Was just playing a casual game with a friend yesterday. I had 14 mil going into ball 3 and he had 77 mil. I wasn't trying to do anything but get to DTR, but he made some boastful comments. I turned it on and had the best ball of my life. Destroyed the ring, had a good TABA, beat 2 multiballs, collected all 6 elf gifts. When I heard the super jackpot call-out on my final multiball, I started geeking out a bit. Started DTR, made my first two shots, then tilted. Still haven't been to valinor.

I've been looking to add a LOTR to my collection. I've played a handful of times but my knowledge of the game is minimal. I was wondering if this group had tips on what to look for (or look out for) when considering a purchase. If you don't want to clog up the thread please feel free to PM me

During multiball my LOTR spits out two balls from the trough almost on top of each other. I replaced the trough optos with the same results. Is there a setting I am missing? Should the first ball be out of the lane before the second one comes out? Thanks.

Shooter Lane switch.

I will check that. Why didn't I think of that?

One glance at your 3 skillshot shooter lane lights should tell you if it's failing because they will stop moving as if the ball launched.

The shooter lane switch is good. l can select any of the 3 skill shots. All 3 of the trough switches also work.

I did a diagnostic switch test for the switches and they are all good.

The nylon bushing is 545-5418-01, it's supposed to have a split but it still might be heavily worn. I had a worn one on my ngg slam ramp and it wouldn't move smoothly. I'd take it apart, replace the bushing and coil sleeve and polish the plunger to see if that makes it operate correctly.
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So, I just joined the club today and I'm sorting through some frustrating gremlins.

Balls are getting stuck here a LOT. What's the consensus on how to fix? I was hoping to be able to just unscrew that screw behind the figure to try and mount a hex post or something, but it's captured by a nut below. Meh.

Also, my spinner doesn't seem to like to position itself back to a spot where it will actually...spin. IE the ball ends up just passing below without engaging.

There may be other issues but that's what I've picked out thus far. Any help is appreciated.

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You cropped the top pic but I am guessing your main ramp is not lined up perfectly with the ring shot. They are usually skewed to one side. Loosen nuts under playfield and adjust it and it may cure your airball problem. Aside from that the whole gandalf platform will remove with a couple screws if you decide to add a post.

As for the Spinner, hold it so it is vertical and pull the whole plate while vertical, toward or away from the flippers until it hangs at the angle you desire. Essentially tweaking the wire holding it. Having the bottom edge of it point slightly towards the ring hole when hanging freely is best as it adds less resistance when the ball is traveling up the ramp. More perpendicular to the ramp instead of perpendicular to the playfield. (Pic shown below is not fully adjusted yet). If it's too damaged, new Spinner and sticker kit are available from Marco for $15. Yours looks like the wires are already bent at funky angles, they should protrude straight out from the spinner, it's an original based on the part number on the sticker.
Notice that the main weight of the Spinner sticks upward instead of hanging below the wire, before you start adjusting it. Counterintuitive.

Welcome to the best club on planet pinside

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That clear plastic with post is on backwards. That happens a lot.

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Lmao wow, good catch. Can't believe I didn't catch that.

I played around with the spinner some and did get it to at least stand vertical....albeit opposite of how Morgoth00 showed above. It works, but not great. Seems really weird to me that the weight is distributed the way it is, but maybe it has to be to work properly...idk.

Haven't tried to adjust that center ramp yet, it probably IS a bit off. I'll mess with that tomorrow.

I've got a couple of bulb sockets (a couple of those irritating IDC style inserts and a couple standard sockets) that simply REFUSE to work but I'm definitely getting closer with the gremlins. Feels like it's 'almost' there. Hopefully soon.

I can tell this is a great game and one I'll enjoy playing for quite some time. Can't wait until I get everything dialed in.

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I added a small red post by the Balrog. I have had a ball get stuck here many times.

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Is it possible to turn down the coil power for the trough eject that feeds the shooter lane?

So my left EOS was completely open but when I tried adjusting it, it binded up against the flipper mech. Looks like I'm missing a contact on one of the leafs anyway so...assume it's just junk and replace? Is there danger in playing with EOS open like this? IIRC DE games were able to somehow adjust to this situation, I assume Whitestar would be similar. BOTH of my flippers (the right EOS appears to be set correctly) sound like they're still running high voltage when I trap a ball..

Found the source of my non-working lamps earlier, so that was good.

Oh, last thing... for now... is this game SUPPOSED to be a PITA to shove the playfield back in the cab? I basically have to bear down my full weight pushing it back in order to get it to clear the receiver...

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I’m confused so forgive me, but does your center ramp not have a flap on it? Nobody else mentioned it, so maybe there is a reason, but I’m confused as to what I’m seeing. I can’t imagine that ramp would function properly with no flap, but maybe some people go without it.

I guess I didn't notice that either. It would certainly appear that it does not. Maybe it was just missed when the brass ramp was installed? I mean, it looks flush so I guess it transitions okay..but it certainly doesn't appear to have what I would typically expect to see from a ramp flap. I suppose the argument could be made that it would take away from / clash against the brass ramp? I dunno.

Yep, I figured your ramp was replaced with a brassed ramp and without the flap. It just took me a minute to notice it. If the transition is smooth maybe you don’t need it, but if you get any hop there, it could effect the spinner function. Sounds like a minor adjustment to allow the spinner to spin more freely will help it return to resting position.

When I removed the entire spinner and held it by the wires I could tell it wanted to balance on its side. I twisted them, probably the wrong way, and it rested vertically. I probably need to just remove it again and see if twisting the wires a different direction reverses which side faces 'down'. It does spin now, I'm just used to ripping Williams and classic Stern spinners and by comparison this one just seems....lame.

I bet you get it balanced correctly. If it remains stubborn, I would order the new spinner and decal set for $15 or so mentioned above. I know I replaced mine on my first LOTR and had success.

Yep, it's in the cart along with several other maintenance items necessary to get this thing back up to snuff (trough eject coil, a couple new EOS switches, etc).

Side note, the gold ramp definitely has a flap attached to it, so there's that... https://www.pinballlife.com/lord-of-the-rings-gold-middle-ring-ramp.html

The pic I posted above is a new ramp from pblife, it came with the flap on it. As well as the original ramp that was removed.

I would grab three of these for the vuks. The originals break alot, these are a bit more beefy but you may have to tweak the ends of it as it is single lever style instead of forked.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5209-00

Every Stern game of this vintage I have had or worked on has been a PITA in the same way. When I slide the playfield back in, it hits a stop, unlike a Bally/WMS game. I then have to reach in, grab the bottom rear of the playfield, and lift it up over the hump... while my other hand is on the other end of the playfield, to keep it from sliding the rest of the way in uncontrolled.

It absolutely sucks and if there is a better way to get the playfield back into position I would love to learn the trick.

Yep, that’s the way I do it, although I’ve seen many operators just get a running start and jump that hump. I lift the back of the playfield while holding the apron. They do sell alternate rails that I believe eliminate the hump, but I haven’t tried them myself. I saw them on display at an expo.

Good to know I am not missing out on something, thanks @pinkitten.

I'm not talking about the hump, I'm talking about when the playfield is almost back in the cab. I have to push, HARD, to get the apron to go behind the receiver so the playfield can drop in. I thought maybe it was the bundle of wires getting in the way of the subway behind the ring magnet but I've specifically made it part left/right..idk.

Thanks, I'll cart those too.

Right now I'm working on cleaning up all the glue and crap on my sword shooter rod so it goes back together nicely and then I can figure our how to secure it.

My trough kicker is shot (broken lug that's hanging on for dear life) and kicking out occasional random balls so I'm not getting the full experience just yet but I've had a blast with what I have gotten to play. This last game had no errors and I tilted the last ball but still posted a pretty okayish score (I'm still trying to figure out a lot of what I'm doing). I wasn't ever looking for a LOTR as any kind of grail but I can't see myself letting it go anytime soon. Great game.

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Found coil pulse power in adjustments. Set on soft setting and problem solved.

Sold

Throwing it out there again, I’m going to look at a locally available game, what are the biggest red flags to watch out for on this title?

Beyond the typical pinball condition/wear issues, check in front of the balrog to make sure it did not scrape/gouge the playfield where it swings open if it was dragging.
Confirm the Balrog opens/closes without issues, registers hits, and lights up when hit such as in fellowship MB or when starting a game. (motor/gearbox is $179 from Marco)
Confirm the ring magnet works when you shoot the ramp to start a mode.
Confirm the fork switches work when a ball goes in the saucers.
3 white ELF ring LEDs above the flippers frequently burn out.
Cabinet wear around the flipper buttons.

Most of the above items are not deal breakers but you can point them out to the seller if broken when negotiating.

LorR is generally reliable so not many common issues.

Random, but since we're talking about wear / concerns about condition, what the heck could have caused this? Overall my playfield looks great but these dents...yikes. really painful to look at once you've noticed them.

Side note, my parts order is arriving today so hopefully I can wrap up the last of the annoying gameplay issues that are keeping me from truly enjoying this game. I'm trying to be patient lol

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I'd guess someone working on the pin or playfield dropped a metal tool right there.

After loosening the crank to swap a flipper, it may have still been tight and someone did some prying to get the flipper out.

I was pretty disappointed seeing this damage, not going to lie. I have to assume this will be a HUGE issue to a lot of potential buyers should I ever need to sell it. I'm looking at it as a permanent fixture to the row because of this one issue. Sucks feeling 'stuck' but at least it's a good game to be 'stuck' with.

Can anyone provide a quick rundown of what is necessary to “beat” each multiball? FOTR seems pretty self evident, but how many levels to ROTK? What shots are necessary to complete TT? Etc.

Here you go:

http://pinball.org/rules/lordoftherings.txt

Do you have a listing for what machine you are looking at?

Are you going in person and can you get a few games in before purchasing? Long plays can reveal power issues where the ring magnet won't work. The balrog tends to have issues detecting hits if it has been played a lot.

It’s not listed but i did get a chance to play in person before i asked the forum this question. From what i remember the balrog did register enough hits to move across the playfield and open up the area behind it. I was able shoot up the ramp and through the eye. I did not notice the ring magnet the first time around.

The game is billed as HUO and there’s absolutely no shooter wear or wear in the spot below the Arwin plastic. I did think the total play audit being at 5k seemed high, but there were no paid credits showing

When i go back I’ll take a look at the other things mentioned