(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

6 years ago

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There are 7133 posts in this topic. You are on page 142 of 143.
#7051 10 days ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

Not true. Bought mine NIB and the blue pad is on the Pippin / Legolas guide. Mine is a bit dirty but still original parts.

Correct, stock has the blue bumper pad installed. However remove the guide and put a washer on the post so it don't dig into the PF and while it's off put a small mylar patch under the blue pad area as well to protect the PF. That bumper does take a beating.

#7053 10 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Correct, stock has the blue bumper pad installed. However remove the guide and put a washer on the post so it don't dig into the PF and while it's off put a small mylar patch under the blue pad area as well to protect the PF. That bumper does take a beating.

Ok so now I’m confused. My machine is stock and there is no bumper or hole for a rivet in the guide. Based on the code that was on the machine at the time I bought it and the path of the dead plastic I have it was an early run model. Was this blue bumper added later?

As an added question, my guide has a nice dent in it from the ball hitting (which I assume is why they added the bumper to later models if my theory is correct). Is there a better solution to protecting the end of that guide than riveting on a blue pad?

#7054 10 days ago

Many thanks, saved me from going back in time in the thread

Just need to figure out how to hide the damage on the ramp guide now...

#7055 10 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Correct, stock has the blue bumper pad installed. However remove the guide and put a washer on the post so it don't dig into the PF and while it's off put a small mylar patch under the blue pad area as well to protect the PF. That bumper does take a beating.

I checked mine carefully when that thread originally came up and for some reason (knock on wood) my blue bumper is rock solid and has been since 2004. The washer is probably not a bad idea though.

After taking that picture it reminds me of how crappy the clear coat and playfield quality was on these. I've bought equipment to clear coat my Shadow playfield with 2PAC, and I think once that is done I may tear down my LOTR and clear the playfield. It is never leaving my collection so it is likely worth the effort.

#7056 10 days ago

Wow, I'm surprised, this part is actually cheap, probably not worth me spending time to try to repair the existing one:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-9281-00

But on a sidenote, the original manual shows that the blue pad is simply screwed in to the metal guide

Looks like this L shape metal part is not standard, and I could not find any reference to it in LOTR manual

So I supposed it was either added later on, anyone would have a reference ?

[EDIT] Found it in the thread, PN is 535-9366-00
Wonder why it's not referenced in the manual though

#7057 9 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Ok so now I’m confused. My machine is stock and there is no bumper or hole for a rivet in the guide. Based on the code that was on the machine at the time I bought it and the path of the dead plastic I have it was an early run model. Was this blue bumper added later?
As an added question, my guide has a nice dent in it from the ball hitting (which I assume is why they added the bumper to later models if my theory is correct). Is there a better solution to protecting the end of that guide than riveting on a blue pad?

My machine is a July 2004 HUO model and the bumper on the guide rail was stock from stern.

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#7058 9 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

My machine is a July 2004 HUO model and the bumper on the guide rail was stock from stern.[quoted image]

+1, and there’s no sign that the bracket ever touched the playfield. I’m still going to tighten that screw though, thanks to this discussion.

#7059 9 days ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I’ll post some pics when I’m 100% done, it does look sweet. I felt bad for paying $1500 for the playfield, but now that LOTR are selling for $7k+ I feel like it’s justified.

Yaman that is a hefty price but it will be so sweet!

Quoted from DeathHimself:

This title has been steadily hiking over the years, and with a slim to none chance of ever seeing a vault edition, they will always command a good dollar especially the HUO ones that were well maintained. Now send it over the top and install a Pinsound in there, it's a whole new animal after that

Only problem with pinsound, if I do one, I must do all of them

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Hahaha "pro"... pinsound board, powered sub, color DMD, sillyoldelf side art, and the Niro mod 3 pack are the top must have mods for me. The rest are all less than from there.

Oh ya lol. Was not called a pro back then!! Cool, some good food for thought there!

Quoted from TheShaft:

For me, Pinstadiums.
I’m curious to know how many are using these on their LOTR? I played mine for a couple months before getting them and I can never go back.
I definitely agree with the LED-OCD, 110% needs it if you’re going led. Path of the Dead mod fills in a barren area if you can find one. I have translucent Titans and am very happy with them, get the clear plastic protectors for the sling plastics as well. It’s also possible to find a Gandalf on Shadowfax to swap out for the grey guy, my opinion. I’m also very pleased with my choice to go with mirror blades over art blades. Have a palantir on the way from AUKraut, excited to eliminate the clear sphere.

Nice options there for sure! I have not tried pinstaduims but cant justify the cost so don't think I will. So many good options. This restore may get pricey

#7060 8 days ago

After closer inspection of my LOTR I must issue a full retraction of my prior "that's a hack" statement and I hereby throw myself on the mercy of the LOTR owner's thread. I do in fact have a tiny little hole in the upper corner of my metal guide where the bumper was attached at some time in the past. As my LOTR is due for a shop job anyhow, I will be ordering the replacement part and installing it!

#7061 6 days ago

giving the coin door some love

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#7062 6 days ago

Does anybody want the shire stickers?. They look like they are vinyl. I am cleaning out stuff and my LoTR LE is long gone. Just PM me your address and I will send it in an envelope.

#7063 6 days ago

With Pinbits apparently out of commission, does anyone know a source for figure mounting plastics? I want to swap in a mounted Gandalf.

#7064 6 days ago
Quoted from Michael_D:

With Pinbits apparently out of commission, does anyone know a source for figure mounting plastics? I want to swap in a mounted Gandalf.

I am working on some. I now have the files done, need to cut them and see how they fit.

#7065 6 days ago

Awesome-count me in!

#7066 6 days ago
Quoted from Morgoth88:

I am working on some. I now have the files done, need to cut them and see how they fit.

Awesome!

#7067 6 days ago

Getting close to finishing up my LOTR. Anyone have any spare mods for sale?

#7068 6 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Getting close to finishing up my LOTR. Anyone have any spare mods for sale?

Already shouted out...have 2 extra palantir mods (one is yours). Extra of the upgraded flipper coils (yours as well).

#7069 6 days ago

Get the path of the dead mod, make it more like the LE

#7070 6 days ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Already shouted out...have 2 extra palantir mods (one is yours). Extra of the upgraded flipper coils (yours as well).

Yes brother. So much appreciated!!! I'm ready when you are!! I pm'd you my email as well

#7071 6 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Get the path of the dead mod, make it more like the LE

Ahh was that an LE thing? I have checked them out. They look cool. I guess they are hard to get though.

#7072 6 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

One question, can someone shoot me a picture of the divider between the legolas ramp

Ahh was that an LE thing? I have checked them out. They look cool. I guess they are hard to get though.

Mirrored back glass, gold cabinet trim, and a certificate were the only "LE's things". Different runs had certain different things in terms of the AOME figures on the PF but that was simply due to availability. Otherwise everything else on the PF has always been consistent between all production runs/versions.

#7073 6 days ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Mirrored back glass, gold trim, and a certificate were the only "LE's things". Different runs had certain different things in terms of the AOME figures on the PF but that was simply due to availability. Otherwise everything else on the PF has always been consistent between all production runs/versions.

Extra clear coat as well. My LE playfield after 8 yrs looks like new. Brass trim also as shiny as the first day.

#7074 6 days ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Extra clear coat as well. My LE playfield after 8 yrs looks like new. Brass trim also as shiny as the first day.

You mean in the before time, in the long long ago? Back before Stern lost the art of being able to successfully clear coat a PF with any sort of reliability.

#7075 6 days ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

You mean in the before time, in the long long ago? Back before Stern lost the art of being able to successfully clear coat a PF with any sort of reliability.

Exactly. The good ole days.
In all seriousness, my PF is one of the best I have, whatever they did then should be done today. But we all know its all changed and must have something to do with the clear coat formula and environmental rules (plus a host of other factors).

#7076 6 days ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Mirrored back glass, gold cabinet trim, and a certificate were the only "LE's things". Different runs had certain different things in terms of the AOME figures on the PF but that was simply due to availability. Otherwise everything else on the PF has always been consistent between all production runs/versions.

Don’t forget the autographs and shaker motor.

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#7077 6 days ago
Quoted from jathomp22:

Don’t forget the autographs and shaker motor.
[quoted image]

George has the coolest signature!

#7078 5 days ago
Quoted from jathomp22:

Don’t forget the autographs and shaker motor.
[quoted image]

Of course! My wall hanging HEP perfected back up PF is an LE.

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#7079 4 days ago

Hi Pinsiders! Hoping someone can help me with a problem I've been having with my LOTR. Here's the issue. Balls have been getting pitted/worn in just about a month of play. I replace them with new ones and same issue happens. Any idea what may be causing that? I tried to see if I could identify any areas where bare metal was hitting the ball, but not sure if that may be the issue. I see the Palantir target has moved to the left, leaving a bit of exposed metal, but not sure if hitting that would be enough for this much wear this quickly.

Anyone experience something like this, or have recommendations where to look? I play about 2 games every couple of days, so I don't think enough to cause that type of wear. My Hobbit, RFM, and Centaur get played about the same and don't have that issue.

#7080 4 days ago
Quoted from GTO:

Hi Pinsiders! Hoping someone can help me with a problem I've been having with my LOTR. Here's the issue. Balls have been getting pitted/worn in just about a month of play. I replace them with new ones and same issue happens. Any idea what may be causing that? I tried to see if I could identify any areas where bare metal was hitting the ball, but not sure if that may be the issue. I see the Palantir target has moved to the left, leaving a bit of exposed metal, but not sure if hitting that would be enough for this much wear this quickly.
Anyone experience something like this, or have recommendations where to look? I play about 2 games every couple of days, so I don't think enough to cause that type of wear. My Hobbit, RFM, and Centaur get played about the same and don't have that issue.

Do you have the blue square rubber on the left side still? Maybe it has worn off and ball is hitting ball guide?

#7081 4 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Do you have the blue square rubber on the left side still? Maybe it has worn off and ball is hitting ball guide?

Yes, I still have it and doesn't appear to be worn. A bit dirty maybe, but still there and protruding past the metal lane guide.

#7082 4 days ago
Quoted from GTO:

Yes, I still have it and doesn't appear to be worn. A bit dirty maybe, but still there and protruding past the metal lane guide.

Maybe remove the apron and the top of the trough (4 screws) and have a look in the trough for any wear? And maybe check the tips of the jump ramp, while shopping mine up I noticed the 2 tips of the jump ramp have a bit of denting (looks like from the ball rejecting the ring and backfiring onto the tips).

#7083 4 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Maybe remove the apron and the top of the trough (4 screws) and have a look in the trough for any wear? And maybe check the tips of the jump ramp, while shopping mine up I noticed the 2 tips of the jump ramp have a bit of denting (looks like from the ball rejecting the ring and backfiring onto the tips).

Thanks! I'll check that out next. I'll also take a closer look at one of the balls. It looks almost like the coating came off the ball in spots. Almost like rust, but I can't imagine balls would rust that quickly.

#7084 3 days ago

Sorry to bring this up again but I have read a lot of threads on this topic and still unsure the way to go regarding upgrading the flipper coils. It sounds like this was a design flaw so not sure about keeping the original coils. Mine is NOT the LE version. Game is HUO and never serviced so coils are original.

I'm still restoring and haven't played a game yet (not on legs) so not sure how flippers are yet.

Either way I will be rebuilding the flippers.

Options:

1. Replace both coils with upgraded coils. (adjust power settings if needed).

2. Replace left coil only. (adjust power settings if needed).

3. Keep originals. (adjust power settings if needed).

Are there any other options and which is the best option. I'm leaning towards number 1.

Also from what I read adjusting the flipper power settings does not seem to do much? Can anyone chime in on that?

Thanks, Mike

#7085 3 days ago

Start with #3 (original coils), they may be fine after a flipper rebuild. I can add that I replaced my left flipper coil with the stronger one, and now I have a broken slingshot plastic. So I’ll be going back to original.

#7086 3 days ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Start with #3 (original coils), they may be fine after a flipper rebuild. I can add that I replaced my left flipper coil with the stronger one, and now I have a broken slingshot plastic. So I’ll be going back to original.

Cool. Thanks for the input!

#7087 3 days ago

You didn't mention it so I will, make sure you get the medium LOTR coils, not the full strength break yer plastic coils

The true "medium" coil is apparently no longer for sale on here. There were some on ebay as well lthough they look to be out of stock.

https://ebay.com/itm/New-Stern-Pinball-Medium-Power-Coil-Lord-of-the-Rings-Guns-Roses-sleeve-/221941822782?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337059215&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

#7088 3 days ago

I’ve had pretty good luck using RC car heat sinks on my coils on Iron Man. Stranger Things has the exact same flipper fade issue, and I’m trying PinMonk’s fans. So far, they seem to work great.

#7089 3 days ago
Quoted from Morgoth88:

You didn't mention it so I will, make sure you get the medium LOTR coils, not the full strength break yer plastic coils.
https://www.pinballlife.com/lotr-special-flipper-coil-090-5020-2ot.html

just to clarify , these are the ones NOT to get

#7090 3 days ago

I was just filing off the mushrooming on the tips of my center jump ramp and I noticed that the left fork is bent up a little higher than the right fork. I'm trying to determine if someone bent it up to try and help the ball into the ring or if it is factory. Anyone noticed that on their ramp?

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#7091 3 days ago

Any advice on replacing the microswitch in balrog? Can i do it easily with him still in the game?

#7092 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

just to clarify , these are the ones NOT to get

Thanks, edited my post above for clarity.

#7093 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

just to clarify , these are the ones NOT to get

Whats wrong with these coils? Too powerful for the game?

#7094 3 days ago
Quoted from dancosta:

Whats wrong with these coils? Too powerful for the game?

9C8043CB-3E15-4DB8-8FEE-FF233A40B8CB (resized).jpeg
#7095 3 days ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Any advice on replacing the microswitch in balrog? Can i do it easily with him still in the game?

Nope, you’ll need to take him out but it’s not hard. You just have to cut the tie wraps and replace them later.

#7096 3 days ago
Quoted from dancosta:

Whats wrong with these coils? Too powerful for the game?

Yes, do not, I repeat do not buy Terry's coils.

All the rest of his stuff is great but I don't know why he even still carries these POS coils that are way too powerful.

#7097 3 days ago
Quoted from Morgoth88:

You didn't mention it so I will, make sure you get the medium LOTR coils, not the full strength break yer plastic coils
The true "medium" coil is apparently no longer for sale on here. There were some on ebay as well lthough they look to be out of stock.
https://ebay.com/itm/New-Stern-Pinball-Medium-Power-Coil-Lord-of-the-Rings-Guns-Roses-sleeve-/221941822782?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337059215&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

Right I forgot about the medium ones as an option!

#7098 3 days ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Any advice on replacing the microswitch in balrog? Can i do it easily with him still in the game?

I just took him apart tonight. Yep remove from game, one connector underneath and remove the coder pin on the post and rest is easy. take bracket off the back (2 screws) and you have access to he switch. It may just need adjustment. If you have not seen the switcht then you might not conclude it needs to be replaced just yet.

#7099 3 days ago

My 2005 LOTR has factory metal washers under the slings.

#7100 3 days ago

Anyone know where to get the correct medium strength coils for this game? My flippers need a compete rebuild.

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