Thanks man, ended up forcing it harder than I wanted but it held up!

Shoot - I was hoping this would help me figure out what was wrong with mine! Haha. On mine, it’s my right flipper that is blowing the fuse. It takes a few flips while playing, but eventually the coil locks on and the flipper stays up until the thing blows. I’m reading 3.3 ohms on both the left and the right. How do I read the transistor to see if it’s good? And on the coil, do I need to check the diode separately?

Inspect the coil lugs on that flipper where the wires attach. It sounds like one is intermittently touching ground.

Is there a post regarding Destroy the Ring issues? Spinner is working great, but the second and final ring shot to end DTR is not working. I just ripped the spinner 9 or 10 times in different games and it just kept going.

There is a separate switch for that. It's mounted in the chute behind the ring. It's probably OK, just needs an adjustment.

To check the diode, yes, it needs to be removed from the circuit to test. You can clip one end of it. When in doubt, just replace it. Buy in bulk and they're like 10 cents/each.

Ok I'll check it out thanks.

Have a pic of which wire is the ground wire I should watch out for?

I mean, one lug may be touching the mounting plate.

Thanks Neal! I think you were right about it grounding out. The lugs were well away from touching anything, but as I was fishing around I noticed I could twist the coil a bit. Twisting it back and forth a bit in its casing got me thinking that the wound wiring if it’s loosened could touch the mounting plate, potentially, even though I couldn’t see it. So twisted it tight and tried it out for a few minutes. The flipper occasionally still got stuck in the up position, but it was different. Took me a few times to tell why, basically it will now release when the ball hits it. So I listened for the sound of the coil to see if it was staying energized or if it’s de-energizing properly now as I press the button. Good news is, it is de-energizing! So the good news is no more blown fuses, hopefully(?) that part may be fixed. Now I need to see mechanically why this thing is sticking. Routed game, so I’m going to check to see if it’s a mushroomed stopper next.

So I replaced the flipper coil, and now once I turn the power on the flipper engages and sticks. If left on for 10 seconds the fuse blows. What did I do wrong? I get a similar reading from both q15 and q16 so I believe the transistor is still good.

Anyone have advice on "re-bronzing" ramps. I just joined the club, and the pin is in great condition, but I want to get it pristine and the ramps are looking a little worn. I know the center ramp can be re-bought but I can't find anyone that carries the right side ramp so I'm wondering if I can get mine reconditioned. Anyone used Pinballplating.com?

Does anyone have a lead on replacing the ring optos? I can't find them anywhere. Mine occasionally starts a ring mode without a ball hitting it. They all register just fine in switch test mode with a ball. No anomalies or accidentally triggers either in test mod. Any help would be appreciated.

Remember, when starting a game and Balrog moves to the side, if there is flaky Balrog switch or wire which triggers a balrog hit, that will register as a ring hit with the ball in the shooter lane. Is that the intermittent issue you are seeing?

Ring modes have started automatically at the beginning of the game, but it has also happened in the middle of one....very intermittent. It doesn't happen all the time.

I tried to test the Balrog switch wire by unplugging the power to the ring opto and playing a game. When I do that, no ring modes will start automatically (nor any modes for that matter). So I am guessing it is the ring opto itself vs Balrog. Am I wrong in assuming that?

Not sure if they will fix your problem, but Marco has them.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=500-6747

Well a phantom switch seems awfully close to what I had seen myself (except it was in the shooter lane), and I debugged it thanks to a link provided by another pinsider:
https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/

basically a shorted diode results into a phantom switch triggering when three switches are closed, in my case one opto in the ball trough, the balrog close switch and the balrog hit would cause a phantom detection of the shooter lane switch.

Hey guys, hope I can join your club soon. This game is my favorite, still searching for this pin. Got to play one at the arcade- lower left sling was having a seizure the whole time and the top of Saruman's body was missing at his waist. But it was still amazing, I can't wait to find one!

Anyone need the shire decal for the hole and surrounding area? I have an extra set. Would also trade for the set of target decals.

Let me check what target decals I have. I think I have all except the palantir

TicTacSeth I have these. PM me if interested in trading.

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I am addicted to pop bumper led rings. Was going to be tough to add them to LOTR with no caps. Well let’s just add some caps. Dremel to the rescue. Cut out the top of the caps and install, then put the plastic back on top. Top 2 pops were not bad at all.

The lower pop required more dremel work. Needed to lower the cap to replace the plastic. Also needed the side shaved to fit against the ramp.

Swapped out the top flasher caps for yellow. Might go to green later on. I also should have blackened the underside of the plastics so you could see the elvish writing better. Or just use a clear cap and ring lights. Red is all I had laying around.

I have introduced a new ball hang up but I will see if it ever happens. If it does I will make some alterations.

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After seeing the post years back of the guy trying to repair his PF and punching his ring graphic out accidentally, I came across this playfield and noticed this had kind of the same issue it appears. Is this a normal thing? Does it mean there is an issue as some I have seen have no seam visible? Can it be repaired with glue on the backside, or does the camera make it worse? Should it just be left alone?

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Please PM me and let me know what you'd want for this and how it looks. Want to be sure we are talking about the same thing.

My game has the same issue. Insert dropped slightly on the bottom part, luckily without doing too much damage to the surrounding playfield. Fixed it by gluing insert from the bottom of the pf. Be careful when trying to make it flush with the playfield, you might push it out

Does anyone else start buying mods before their pin even arrives? Or is it just me.

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No it’s not just you. We are all insane!

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we all do, dont worry. 2niro mods are top.

Good choice. I have all three 2Niro mods installed, and they are top notch

And now for my next magic trick...

He came a long way since I ordered mine, you get pretty boxes now. Mine just arrived wrapped in foam paper lol. Best mods for LOTR well other then Pinsound, powerblades, LED OCD boards, shaker motor, POTD etc.... yeah they're all great lol.

Where do you get the gold colored flipper buttons?

Where do you by 2Niro mods?

Thanks

https://www.2niro-pinball.com/boutique/Pinball-mods-c27074105

Chronopost shipping only took 2 days to US. Just like pinsound

Shire Wire mod no longer being made. Anyone have dimensions/pattern/thickness/material source etc? Or maybe an extra?

Disregard

Anyone know what part number the two flipper switches (cabinet button) are?

The manual is a bit confusing.

Thanks!

Used to get them from Joey at PDI but now Babak gets them from Germany.

https://pinballhaus.com/

https://pinballhaus.com/product/custom-metallic-flipper-buttons/

Yes my disappearing AFMRLE. I think you know that feeling!

Anyone?

Original part # is 180-5160-00. According to Marcos, this subs out to 500-6689-01. Marco is out of stock but Pinballlife seems to have them.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html

Also found this info on Marcos...

Switch - flip cab "Paliney"
#500-6889-01

Single flipper button cabinet switch assembly with the new low-arcing "Paliney" alloy contacts.

Replaces:
500-6889-01
180-5160-00
500-6889-00

If replacing 180-5160 series switch, mounting holes will need to be raised 3/4".

SOPRANOS Service Bulletin 156

Weight: 0.41 oz

Wanted LOTR LE... If you are on the west coast and ready to part with your LE please hit me up. I have cash. Thank you for your consideration.

After upgrading roms, pal chips and installing a shaker, what does the LE have different? Besides back glass. Is there anything else different?

gold or brass powder coated legs , side rails and hinges? , less or no playfield figures

No figures installed, to be honest their brass/gold finish trim was horrible. Tarnished very easily and what looks like a clear lacquer coat on it was peeling off the metal too. Powder coating was the better way to go.

Found these locally got $20! Now I need to decide how to install them. I saw one thread reference green post lights, but has anyone tried UV lights?
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I'm partial to the green LED but it all comes down to what you like best for your taste. I'll send you a video of mine installed.

I’m looking for a nice LOTR in Southern California. Willing to drive a ways, or pay for shipping from someone trusted. Regular or LE.