(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

6 years ago



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  • 6,823 posts
  • 571 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Morgoth88
  • Topic is favorited by 297 Pinsiders

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There are 6823 posts in this topic. You are on page 137 of 137.
#6801 11 days ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Actually harder to get off than on but here is what I did.
Insert your left side so it is sitting on top of the limit switch and the right side is positioned higher on the ramp. Like this:
[quoted image]
Then drag the right end down the ramp surface until you get to the hole and it pops in. I was also pulling the side of the ramp away from the spinner but it doesn't deflect much so this might not help at all. There will be some resistance but mine survived.
[quoted image]
Another view:
[quoted image]

Thanks man, ended up forcing it harder than I wanted but it held up!

#6802 11 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I looked up the spec on that coil, should be around 3.4 ohms. 1.6 is very low. The coil has probably overheated at some point and melted some of the internal insulation. Too low ohms will cause a fuse to blow for sure. There's is just a 3amp fuse on the flipper circuits.

Shoot - I was hoping this would help me figure out what was wrong with mine! Haha. On mine, it’s my right flipper that is blowing the fuse. It takes a few flips while playing, but eventually the coil locks on and the flipper stays up until the thing blows. I’m reading 3.3 ohms on both the left and the right. How do I read the transistor to see if it’s good? And on the coil, do I need to check the diode separately?

#6803 11 days ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Shoot - I was hoping this would help me figure out what was wrong with mine! Haha. On mine, it’s my right flipper that is blowing the fuse. It takes a few flips while playing, but eventually the coil locks on and the flipper stays up until the thing blows. I’m reading 3.3 ohms on both the left and the right. How do I read the transistor to see if it’s good? And on the coil, do I need to check the diode separately?

Inspect the coil lugs on that flipper where the wires attach. It sounds like one is intermittently touching ground.

#6804 11 days ago

Is there a post regarding Destroy the Ring issues? Spinner is working great, but the second and final ring shot to end DTR is not working. I just ripped the spinner 9 or 10 times in different games and it just kept going.

#6805 11 days ago
Quoted from attyrhodes:

Is there a post regarding Destroy the Ring issues? Spinner is working great, but the second and final ring shot to end DTR is not working. I just ripped the spinner 9 or 10 times in different games and it just kept going.

There is a separate switch for that. It's mounted in the chute behind the ring. It's probably OK, just needs an adjustment.

#6806 11 days ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Shoot - I was hoping this would help me figure out what was wrong with mine! Haha. On mine, it’s my right flipper that is blowing the fuse. It takes a few flips while playing, but eventually the coil locks on and the flipper stays up until the thing blows. I’m reading 3.3 ohms on both the left and the right. How do I read the transistor to see if it’s good? And on the coil, do I need to check the diode separately?

To check the diode, yes, it needs to be removed from the circuit to test. You can clip one end of it. When in doubt, just replace it. Buy in bulk and they're like 10 cents/each.

#6807 11 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

There is a separate switch for that. It's mounted in the chute behind the ring. It's probably OK, just needs an adjustment.

Ok I'll check it out thanks.

#6808 11 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Inspect the coil lugs on that flipper where the wires attach. It sounds like one is intermittently touching ground.

Have a pic of which wire is the ground wire I should watch out for?

#6809 11 days ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Have a pic of which wire is the ground wire I should watch out for?

I mean, one lug may be touching the mounting plate.

#6810 10 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I mean, one lug may be touching the mounting plate.

Thanks Neal! I think you were right about it grounding out. The lugs were well away from touching anything, but as I was fishing around I noticed I could twist the coil a bit. Twisting it back and forth a bit in its casing got me thinking that the wound wiring if it’s loosened could touch the mounting plate, potentially, even though I couldn’t see it. So twisted it tight and tried it out for a few minutes. The flipper occasionally still got stuck in the up position, but it was different. Took me a few times to tell why, basically it will now release when the ball hits it. So I listened for the sound of the coil to see if it was staying energized or if it’s de-energizing properly now as I press the button. Good news is, it is de-energizing! So the good news is no more blown fuses, hopefully(?) that part may be fixed. Now I need to see mechanically why this thing is sticking. Routed game, so I’m going to check to see if it’s a mushroomed stopper next.

#6811 10 days ago
Quoted from TheShaft:

I’m having left flipper issues. The fuse will blow on first attempt to use it. I’ve traced the wire and can’t find any shorts. I’ve tested the transistor by grounding it with a wire and that acts the same as using the flipper button, blows the fuse. (I feel like a bad transistor wouldn’t blow a fuse, but I’m new at this.) The diode on the flipper coil looks normal. What should my readings be on the flipper coil? I’m getting 3.7 ohms on the right flipper coil, 1.6 on the left flipper coil, and I have a spare coil that reads 4.3. Is this my problem? These measurements are jibberish to me. Any info would be helpful, thanks.

So I replaced the flipper coil, and now once I turn the power on the flipper engages and sticks. If left on for 10 seconds the fuse blows. What did I do wrong? I get a similar reading from both q15 and q16 so I believe the transistor is still good.

#6812 8 days ago

Anyone have advice on "re-bronzing" ramps. I just joined the club, and the pin is in great condition, but I want to get it pristine and the ramps are looking a little worn. I know the center ramp can be re-bought but I can't find anyone that carries the right side ramp so I'm wondering if I can get mine reconditioned. Anyone used Pinballplating.com?

#6813 8 days ago

Does anyone have a lead on replacing the ring optos? I can't find them anywhere. Mine occasionally starts a ring mode without a ball hitting it. They all register just fine in switch test mode with a ball. No anomalies or accidentally triggers either in test mod. Any help would be appreciated.

#6814 8 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Does anyone have a lead on replacing the ring optos? I can't find them anywhere. Mine occasionally starts a ring mode without a ball hitting it. They all register just fine in switch test mode with a ball. No anomalies or accidentally triggers either in test mod. Any help would be appreciated.

Remember, when starting a game and Balrog moves to the side, if there is flaky Balrog switch or wire which triggers a balrog hit, that will register as a ring hit with the ball in the shooter lane. Is that the intermittent issue you are seeing?

#6815 8 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Remember, when starting a game and Balrog moves to the side, if there is flaky Balrog switch or wire which triggers a balrog hit, that will register as a ring hit with the ball in the shooter lane. Is that the intermittent issue you are seeing?

Ring modes have started automatically at the beginning of the game, but it has also happened in the middle of one....very intermittent. It doesn't happen all the time.

I tried to test the Balrog switch wire by unplugging the power to the ring opto and playing a game. When I do that, no ring modes will start automatically (nor any modes for that matter). So I am guessing it is the ring opto itself vs Balrog. Am I wrong in assuming that?

#6816 8 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Does anyone have a lead on replacing the ring optos? I can't find them anywhere. Mine occasionally starts a ring mode without a ball hitting it. They all register just fine in switch test mode with a ball. No anomalies or accidentally triggers either in test mod. Any help would be appreciated.

Not sure if they will fix your problem, but Marco has them.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=500-6747

#6817 7 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Does anyone have a lead on replacing the ring optos? I can't find them anywhere. Mine occasionally starts a ring mode without a ball hitting it. They all register just fine in switch test mode with a ball. No anomalies or accidentally triggers either in test mod. Any help would be appreciated.

Well a phantom switch seems awfully close to what I had seen myself (except it was in the shooter lane), and I debugged it thanks to a link provided by another pinsider:
https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/

basically a shorted diode results into a phantom switch triggering when three switches are closed, in my case one opto in the ball trough, the balrog close switch and the balrog hit would cause a phantom detection of the shooter lane switch.

#6818 5 days ago

Hey guys, hope I can join your club soon. This game is my favorite, still searching for this pin. Got to play one at the arcade- lower left sling was having a seizure the whole time and the top of Saruman's body was missing at his waist. But it was still amazing, I can't wait to find one!

#6819 5 days ago

Anyone need the shire decal for the hole and surrounding area? I have an extra set. Would also trade for the set of target decals.

#6820 5 days ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Anyone need the shire decal for the hole and surrounding area? I have an extra set. Would also trade for the set of target decals.

Let me check what target decals I have. I think I have all except the palantir

#6821 4 days ago

TicTacSeth I have these. PM me if interested in trading.

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#6822 3 days ago

I am addicted to pop bumper led rings. Was going to be tough to add them to LOTR with no caps. Well let’s just add some caps. Dremel to the rescue. Cut out the top of the caps and install, then put the plastic back on top. Top 2 pops were not bad at all.

The lower pop required more dremel work. Needed to lower the cap to replace the plastic. Also needed the side shaved to fit against the ramp.

Swapped out the top flasher caps for yellow. Might go to green later on. I also should have blackened the underside of the plastics so you could see the elvish writing better. Or just use a clear cap and ring lights. Red is all I had laying around.

I have introduced a new ball hang up but I will see if it ever happens. If it does I will make some alterations.

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#6823 2 days ago

After seeing the post years back of the guy trying to repair his PF and punching his ring graphic out accidentally, I came across this playfield and noticed this had kind of the same issue it appears. Is this a normal thing? Does it mean there is an issue as some I have seen have no seam visible? Can it be repaired with glue on the backside, or does the camera make it worse? Should it just be left alone?

Screenshot_20210228-101826_Facebook (resized).jpg

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