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(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,446 posts
  • 538 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 minutes ago by attyrhodes
  • Topic is favorited by 275 Pinsiders

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There are 6446 posts in this topic. You are on page 127 of 129.
#6301 58 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is this the stuff? Google gives me 99% American sites, but I did find this one:
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rust-oleum-painter-s-touch-painter-s-touch-multi-purpose-paint-in-semi-gloss-black-946-ml/1000140786
Also, do you find it to be a good match to the stock inside walls, so I can just touch up a couple of spots?
Thanks again!

Yep, looks like it.

You'll have to try and see, the condition of your remaining black will also determine this, especially if it's faded or slightly dirty. It's easy enough to put on with a foam brush you could do the whole inside wall for a good finish.

#6302 56 days ago

Should I update the game code?

I am adding colordmd lcd. Would I still need to update display code?

Ps: Its been a long journey but I joined the club

4986816E-ACAF-4876-BF98-1C8C5E9A3136 (resized).jpeg6FA240A6-199F-4FA3-A9E5-46DE5B808060 (resized).jpeg831C9A27-7030-4AF9-BE6E-C180048A519B (resized).jpeg
#6303 56 days ago
Quoted from Superpops1:

Should I update the game code?
I am adding colordmd lcd. Would I still need to update display code?
Ps: Its been a long journey but I joined the club [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, your missing a lot. Upgrade to CPU 10.02, Display 10.0.

#6304 55 days ago

Anyone interested in selling their Lotr? Preferably with some upgrades. Pm me if interested

#6305 54 days ago

Am an original LOTR owner since they first came out, incredible game. How do you "officially join" the LOTR club?? Also, what is recommended lighting upgrade kits?? I am still on original lighting the game came out with

#6306 54 days ago
Quoted from Scooter108:

I am still on original lighting the game came out with

Then you're doing it right! Don't change a thing imo

#6307 54 days ago
Quoted from Scooter108:

Am an original LOTR owner since they first came out, incredible game. How do you "officially join" the LOTR club??

<To the sound of trumpets playing in The background >

By owning LOTR and making your first post in this thread, hitherto reserved for members only, you are hereby granted full club membership with all rights and privileges forthwith and henceforth and shall be recognized as such by all card carrying members when out and about and shall be expected to greet each other with the official handshake of Middle Earth. A membership packet will be mailed out posthaste with more details.

#6308 54 days ago

So what are your thoughts on aftermarket decals? Will reselling be a big issue? There is a seller selling a Lotr here with aftermarket decals but having second thoughts on buying it. TIA

#6309 54 days ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

<To the sound of trumpets playing in The background >
By owning LOTR and making your first post in this thread, hitherto reserved for members only, you are hereby granted full club membership with all rights and privileges forthwith and henceforth and shall be recognized as such by all card carrying members when out and about and shall be expected to greet each other with the official handshake of Middle Earth. A membership packet will be mailed out posthaste with more details.

I thank ye o' brave and noble knight Pinzap for the greetings and acceptance of this humble soul into your club. I have been wandering around lost these many years and it is pleasant to find warmth and shelter with you all.

#6310 54 days ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Then you're doing it right! Don't change a thing imo

So don't "upgrade" to LED lighting IYO? Anyone else weigh in? Thanks

#6311 54 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

So what are your thoughts on aftermarket decals? Will reselling be a big issue? There is a seller selling a Lotr here with aftermarket decals but having second thoughts on buying it. TIA

I like the look of the one aftermarket decal set but I think having this may limit the pool of potential buyers at resale .

#6312 54 days ago
Quoted from Scooter108:

So don't "upgrade" to LED lighting IYO? Anyone else weigh in? Thanks

If you are happy with the lights why bother? myself I like the brightness of led lighting in the gi and inserts using the led ocd board . pinstadium led approach not so much.

#6313 54 days ago
Quoted from Scooter108:

So don't "upgrade" to LED lighting IYO? Anyone else weigh in? Thanks

I did and love it, however if you do LED OCD board is a must and get the GI Gizmo from him as well for your GI lights.

#6314 54 days ago
Quoted from Scooter108:

So don't "upgrade" to LED lighting IYO? Anyone else weigh in? Thanks

Lighting is a preference. It is technically an upgrade because:
The bulbs are rated for a much longer life.
The produce less heat thus giving a longer life to the plastics they sit under.
They draw considerably less power which equates to less wear and tear on the electronics.
The only draw back in my personal opinion is LED's natural response is terrible. It is counter acted by using a GIOCD and LEDOCD board.
I have these in all my games. These OCD boards also allow you to custom taylor each individual bulb.
The only negative of LED's is they cost more than an incandescent.

#6315 54 days ago

To add to that if you do go LED with the OCD boards, don't waste money on non ghosting leds just buy the regular leds as the OCD board take care of that.

#6316 54 days ago

I always lean towards protection with most of my choices on my pins.

LEDS are better for the inserts. I have one insert that has some temperature caused melting/cracking.

Get an OCD board, and get some cheaper ghosting LEDs.

Follow this bulb choice. Don’t buy a kit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings

#6317 53 days ago

I've had two LOTRs here at the same time, one with factory bulbs, and one with LEDs (and OCD).

I prefer the stock look, but LEDs looked pretty sharp too. I used warm white LEDs throughout, no colour matching as I find it changes the intended colour.

I don't play a lot, so not too worried about heat damage.

#6318 53 days ago

Thanks for the insight and information. All my other pins are LED but have held out doing it. Have to do some thinking...

#6319 53 days ago
Quoted from Scooter108:

So don't "upgrade" to LED lighting IYO? Anyone else weigh in? Thanks

I also vote stock bulbs on LOTR. I have upgraded every other game I have ever owned to LED but I think there is something about the warm glow and twinkle of incandescent bulbs that just works on LOTR. That being said, mine is only on when I play it, and if I had it on all day every day, I would likely switch to LED's for the reasons mentioned above.

#6320 52 days ago

Agree with Gorgar123, I like how the incandescent bulbs glow and fade in and out. For home use, I don't worry about heat, etc. I wasn't willing to spend the extra $ on an OCD board when I like how the original bulbs look. It's the only machine I never upgraded to led. The good thing is that there is no wrong answer here, both are great options.

Quoted from Gorgar123:

I also vote stock bulbs on LOTR. I have upgraded every other game I have ever owned to LED but I think there is something about the warm glow and twinkle of incandescent bulbs that just works on LOTR. That being said, mine is only on when I play it, and if I had it on all day every day, I would likely switch to LED's for the reasons mentioned above.

#6321 50 days ago

The bulb behind the Palantir globe is always on/ghosting.
Is that how it should be?
It does not make a difference if I use an incandescent or a LED.
Rest of the machine is 100% incandescents.

The Cliffy protectors arrived today, so I'll be doing a teardown!

#6322 50 days ago

Just joined the club. This is my first used machine I bought. I noticed that the front speakers by the dmd are really low and barely hear anything from them. The game sounds pretty loud but most of the sounds seems to be coming from inside the main body of the machine. Is this normal for this game? Thanks in advance.

#6323 50 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

The bulb behind the Palantir globe is always on/ghosting.

It should not be on all the time. Try the single lamp test in the diagnostics tests and check all the lamps and see when it is on. Maybe a bad diode in the same row or column of the lamp matrix? (or loose diode)

#6324 50 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

I noticed that the front speakers by the dmd are really low and barely hear anything from them.

Welcome to the club!

Does it have a flipper fidelity speaker upgrade? Those include a large knob that gets installed in the back box that is used to balance between cabinet speaker and backbox speakers which affects bass/treble as well.

#6325 50 days ago

Hi all, just joined the Club. My LOTR machine came with a broken Palantir.
I haven't found a cheap alternative to replace it so i made it by myself.
Installation required around 20 seconds... just screw the base to the existing support
IMG_20200804_101222 (resized).jpgIMG_20200804_101224 (resized).jpgIMG_20200804_101752 (resized).jpg

#6326 50 days ago

Looks good. It would be interesting to see what you used as a replacement and how you did it.

Quoted from CreoPinball:

Hi all, just joined the Club. My LOTR machine came with a broken Palantir.
I haven't found a cheap alternative to replace it so i made it by myself.
Installation required around 20 seconds... just screw the base to the existing support
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#6327 50 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

It should not be on all the time. Try the single lamp test in the diagnostics tests and check all the lamps and see when it is on. Maybe a bad diode in the same row or column of the lamp matrix? (or loose diode)

EDIT: Will be checking diodes haha.

Thank you!
I checked it.
The globe is lit on every row, except the lowest one (ring modes) and the row that the palantir is in.
Also in all rows the column in which the palantir is, does not turn the lamp on.
The added photo shows that if Gimli is lit, so is the palantir.

So the column and 2 rows are okay (?) but for some reason all other tiles in the lamp matrix are connected to the palantir?
I really don't know where to start looking for this problem

20200804_170345 (resized).jpg

#6328 50 days ago
Quoted from CreoPinball:

Hi all, just joined the Club. My LOTR machine came with a broken Palantir.
I haven't found a cheap alternative to replace it so i made it by myself.
Installation required around 20 seconds... just screw the base to the existing support
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A lot of people have been upgrading to the palantir mod so there are sure to be some around. I have one sitting for example- can PM for details or research the upgraded model thread for a list.

#6329 50 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

EDIT: Will be checking diodes haha.
Thank you!
I checked it.
The globe is lit on every row, except the lowest one (ring modes) and the row that the palantir is in.
Also in all rows the column in which the palantir is, does not turn the lamp on.
The added photo shows that if Gimli is lit, so is the palantir.
So the column and 2 rows are okay (?) but for some reason all other tiles in the lamp matrix are connected to the palantir?
I really don't know where to start looking for this problem
[quoted image]

There was no diode for the palantir bulb!
I put one in but it did not fix it..
In row test everything works fine.
But in column test it stays on in all columns!

So to go on from this:
In the switch matrix it is bulb 23 and has the row from Q36 and column from U11 J13-P3.
Could either of these be the problem?

#6330 45 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Now, for the orbit fix!
As I stated before, the issue with the orbit is that the BNOD (blue nub of death) holder is able to rotate since its only one screw. That then damages the playfield when the orbit gets hit with a pinball.
If your playfield already has damage, you'll want to get a cliffy to cover it up. They only cost $6 plus shipping.
The top of the LOTR BNOD holder is a 4-40 through-hole self-clinching standoff, with a hex-width of .1875", and a length of 3/16". I could only cheaply acquire a blind-thread 5/16" standoff, which works fine, though you do not want anything longer than 5/16".
Stern also uses a 5/16" 4-40 undercut machine screw. If you get a through-hold standoff, 5/16" length works fine, but if you get a blind-thread, you'll want 1/4" or less length screw.
First step, you'll want to drill a hole for the second standoff. Don't make the same mistake I did. You'll want to use a punch to put a small dent in the metal so when you use a hand drill, the bit won't move around on you. I didn't and my initial pilot hole was a bit too low ->
[quoted image]
Luckily, a friend had a huge end-mill machine and was able to put the right size hole a little higher.
[quoted image]
The original top hole's center is about 3/16" from the edge. You'll want to go a little bit lower than that with your hole if you plan to put washers underneath your orbit guide.
If you are reusing your blue nub, you'll want to make a little indent at the bottom for your new standoff.
[quoted image]
And attached!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Now its impossible for your BNOD holder to rotate.
I would still like to experiment with a different blue nub, though its not necessary. Stern Blue Rubber Bumper 626-5065-00 looks like a great option at 1-1/4" x 1" x 1/4". (as long as 1-1/4" is the height).
I was about to use JB weld on the new standoff...but there is enough tension created with the rubber from the BNOD that its actually not necessary, so I'm going to leave as is.
Next, you'll want to put your cliffy on. Use the alcohol wipe, and then the cliffy has double sided tape on the bottom of it to hold it in place.
[quoted image]
It was a bit of a pain getting the washers into place (5 #8 washers), but once I taped them on then it was MUCH easier.
[quoted image]
The idea behind the washers, is that the end of the orbit guide can still scratch your playfield too (though I had much less damage from that vs the BNOD holder). The washers raise the orbit slightly so no further damage is possible. Or...rubbing against your new cliffy.
[quoted image]
One thing you'll want to check if you use washers, is clearance with the lower screw and a pinball. Mine was very close, but the screw doesn't touch the ball. If yours does, you'll have to take the washers off to lower the orbit guide.
[quoted image]
Now, I went ahead and bought extra standoffs and screws just in case someone else wanted to do this fix. I only have 7 pairs left, but PM me if you want them shipped for $2 (that's at cost) and I'll put them between some cardboard and put them in a normal envelope to you.
Best of luck to everyone!

Ok, I got a Stern Blue Rubber Bumper 626-5065-00, and....it wouldn't work by itself. Its the same size as the original LOTR blue nub.

20200805_095817 (resized).jpg

So its not any larger, which is disappointing since its supposed to be. So I'm still recommending the cliffy and drilling a hole for a permanent fix.

#6331 44 days ago

Where are we getting Whitestar CPU/Sound boards repaired these days? Thanks!

#6332 44 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

Where are we getting Whitestar CPU/Sound boards repaired these days? Thanks!

If you are in the U.S. look up Chris Hibler here on the forums and shoot him a PM. He does excellent work.

#6333 44 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

If you are in the U.S. look up Chris Hibler here on the forums and shoot him a PM. He does excellent work.

Seconded

#6334 43 days ago

Well, the Shire upkicker vertical plastic broke in half... the balls fly into the outlane now what is the best solution? Do they have repro?

#6335 43 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Well, the Shire upkicker vertical plastic broke in half... the balls fly into the outlane now what is the best solution? Do they have repro?

You could try something like this ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/123#post-5659782

#6336 43 days ago

I did this exact mod on my LOTR, and it still looks and works perfectly!!!

#6337 43 days ago

I have NOS clearcoated playfield if anyone is looking for one.

Thanks,

Mike

#6338 43 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I did this exact mod on my LOTR, and it still looks and works perfectly!!!

i guess that beats buying a full plastic set from Marcos at $250 for one plastic hu? :S

#6339 43 days ago

Thanks, both!

#6340 43 days ago

How to install this Cliffy protector?
All the other ones were easy haha

20200811_175727 (resized).jpg
#6341 43 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

How to install this Cliffy protector?
All the other ones were easy haha
[quoted image]

Goes into the shooter lane. Unscrew the wood rail on the right side of the shooter lane, place the cliffy down that the screw goes through the hole and it looks like the other end has a piece that digs into the wood as you tighten down the rail. Tighten down slowly keep a little pressure on the edge of the protector in the shooter lane so it don't move after you positioned it in place. Don't forget to peel the clear protecting off first.

You might have to remove a few screws to lift the wood rail enough to position the protector.
D7F718AA-68E3-4666-A61E-241DB4834C92 (resized).jpeg

#6342 43 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Goes into the shooter lane. Unscrew the wood rail on the right side of the shooter lane, place the cliffy down that the screw goes through the hole and it looks like the other end has a piece that digs into the wood as you tighten down the rail. Tighten down slowly keep a little pressure on the edge of the protector in the shooter lane so it don't move after you positioned it in place. Don't forget to peel the clear protecting off first.
You might have to remove a few screws to lift the wood rail enough to position the protector.
[quoted image]

I position mine so that the very edge of the protector comes to the very edge of the shooter lane for the ball (ditto for the other side). Takes some patience as it can move when you go to tighten it but it never allows the violently ejected ball come into contact with the wood.

#6343 41 days ago

Working my way back into the club (used to have one, sold it years ago, and now getting another one). Question for you all: getting the plastic for the Path of the Dead mod with figures, but I need the hardware to install it. Any idea what size screws, posts, etc. I would need? Your help would be greatly appreciated!

#6344 41 days ago
Quoted from GTO:

Working my way back into the club (used to have one, sold it years ago, and now getting another one). Question for you all: getting the plastic for the Path of the Dead mod with figures, but I need the hardware to install it. Any idea what size screws, posts, etc. I would need? Your help would be greatly appreciated!

I know I bought mine in a kit, with the posts and screws that came with the acrylic piece. Not sure if that’s not available anymore. Also, search for Army of the Dead figures on EBay, if you need the translucent dead dudes for your upper level. They look great with a green LED strip under them from Comet.

#6345 41 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I know I bought mine in a kit, with the posts and screws that came with the acrylic piece. Not sure if that’s not available anymore. Also, search for Army of the Dead figures on EBay, if you need the translucent dead dudes for your upper level. They look great with a green LED strip under them from Comet.

I have the plastic and the figures, just missing the posts and screwsif anyone can measure theirs and let me know, I can then order them. The full kit is no longer available (except the pricey one with lights).

Thanks!

#6346 40 days ago

I'm looking for these 2 plastics and not willing to buy a full set for just these 2.
It is the plastic above the right ramp with the black rider on top and the red plastic on the right of Balrog.
Also my ring plastic is not looking good, anywhere I can get a decal for that?

plastics_LI (resized).jpgWhatsApp Image 2020-08-13 at 21.49.19 (1) (resized).jpeg
#6347 38 days ago

You wouldn't have a picture of the y switch on gimli and how it is wired under the play field, I think there's supposed to be a diode there, and I am still searching.. I am having an issue with past work done on the machine.

Thanks in advance!

-MjrKnockout

#6348 38 days ago
Quoted from Mjr_Knockout:

You wouldn't have a picture of the y switch on gimli and how it is wired under the play field, I think there's supposed to be a diode there, and I am still searching.. I am having an issue with past work done on the machine.
Thanks in advance!
-MjrKnockout

I don't have a picture handy but here is the switch matrix. I believe you are talking about sw.30. DOTS means diode on terminal strip, so the diode is mounted off the switch. Green/Yellow and White/Blue are the wire colors.

lotr switch matrix (resized).JPG
#6349 37 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I don't have a picture handy but here is the switch matrix. I believe you are talking about sw.30. DOTS means diode on terminal strip, so the diode is mounted off the switch. Green/Yellow and White/Blue are the wire colors.[quoted image]

That is why I was asking for a picture of a working machines play fields underside of the VUK location. I am not under standing the wire colors running to the switch if there is supposed to be no diode on the coil mounted switch due to the DOTS.....

I appreciate the screen shot of the PDF Manual I have.

The machine needs some TLC and both VUKs (9 & 30) are intermittent 9s optos are good the coil gets stuck firing upwards and need some pressing down pretty hard to reset the plunger residing in the coil (need to figure that issue out as well), also the game progresses through the story even just sitting in the trough waiting to be launched, that tells me something is wrong.

Back to the drawing board.

If anyone can help out I will be in forever of you debt.

Thanks again in advance!

Mjr_Knockout

#6350 37 days ago

Here is a pic. Apparently the wire colors are wrong on the manual. Looks like orange/blue and green/yellow. Also including a pic of the diode. Hope that helps!

20200816_221814 (resized).jpg20200816_222023 (resized).jpg
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