(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

6 years ago


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There are 7602 posts in this topic. You are on page 126 of 153.
#6251 1 year ago

300V is fine, more than likely the only difference is the thinkness of the insulation.

#6252 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

300V is fine, more than likely the only difference is the thinkness of the insulation.

Awesome! Thank you all for the help!

Time to get this wire extended and get back to chasing down Valinor!

#6253 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Thanks!
Just a noob questions... Why does it fit in the 16 slot of my wire stripper, and work perfectly.
If I put it in the 18, it seems to be loose.

Gauge is related to the size of the material that makes up the wire which actually carries the signal/current minus any insulation around it. Look at some of the "fancy" speaker wire with 1/8" of an inch of plastic wrapped around it. They make it look like 12/14 AWG when it's really 16/18 just because of all the plastic they surround it with. And to the previous poster's comment, all wire should be marked on the jacket for what it is, including multi wire like Romex (ie. 12/3 containing 3 strands of 12 gauge wire and an additional ground if listed).

1 week later
#6254 1 year ago

A little miffed here. Picked up a LOTR recently, was missing the blue nub of death, the bracket and the screw. Ordered the bracket and nub from Marco assuming the small screw would come with the bracket. Nope, they shipped it without the screw to secure it. Ridiculous. In any event, hope someone here can point me in the right direction. In the manual, it says it's secured by #4-40 x 5/16" Am I reading this correctly, that is the screw size correct? I have to assume something that size is going to be very difficult to find.

If that is correct, does this appear to be the correct screw? https://www.fastenal.ca/productDetails?query=0173844

Thanks in advance!

#6255 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

shipped it without the screw

I can see there is a flat head Phillips screw there on mine. You should be able to find a flat head screw that will thread in to the bracket at the local hardware store.

If the screw you find is too long, you can cut it shorter. Old school wire strippers like this include a simple bolt cutter that does the job. You can see it has a hole to screw in and cut a 4-40 screw. The head of the screw goes on the threaded side, so when back it out, it straightens the threads after cutting.
https://www.stanleytools.com/products/hand-tools/pliers/8-in-wire-strippercuttercrimper/84-199

You could use large cutting dikes in a pinch. Put a nut on the screw, cut the screw, and remove the nut to straighten the threads where they were cut.

#6256 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

A little miffed here. Picked up a LOTR recently, was missing the blue nub of death, the bracket and the screw. Ordered the bracket and nub from Marco assuming the small screw would come with the bracket. Nope, they shipped it without the screw to secure it. Ridiculous. In any event, hope someone here can point me in the right direction. In the manual, it says it's secured by #4-40 x 5/16" Am I reading this correctly, that is the screw size correct? I have to assume something that size is going to be very difficult to find.
If that is correct, does this appear to be the correct screw? https://www.fastenal.ca/productDetails?query=0173844
Thanks in advance!

https://www.pinballlife.com/4-40-x-316-screw.html
Slightly shorter but should do the trick. It even mentions blue nubs of death(BNOD) in the description.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01041-04
Another at 1/4 inch(4/16) length.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01041-06
Another at 3/8(6/16) that may need to be cut as mentioned above.

And just for the record, there is no way I would have expected the screws to come with the bracket.

#6257 1 year ago

Also, your Fastenal screw fits all the specs exactly. The picture is just dead wrong. The screw in the pic is way too long.

#6258 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

In the manual, it says it's secured by #4-40 x 5/16" Am I reading this correctly, that is the screw size correct? I have to assume something that size is going to be very difficult to find.

Should be super easy...if you don't want to get out in the public, McMaster-Carr has 18-8 SS Flat head Phillips 4-40 x 5/16 for $4.53 per 100.
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/head-type~flat/thread-size~4-40/length~0-3125inches/
pasted_image (resized).png

#6259 1 year ago

Thanks so much for all the help! Will make a trip to Home Depot today to see if I can source it locally.

#6260 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Thanks so much for all the help! Will make a trip to Home Depot today to see if I can source it locally.

For unique hardware like that, I always have better luck at a hardware store like ACE vs the big box stores. Worth a try if you can't find it at HD.

#6261 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I always have better luck at a hardware store like ACE

Same here.

#6262 1 year ago

LOTR_breath although plenty offered advice, I followed yours to the T, and it was successful. I would never have known about the wire strippers having the capability of cutting a bolt.

I'm very appreciative to all who took the time out to assist. You all rock.

Reg

#6263 1 year ago

At this point in my life I prefer to spend the $12 and have a box of 100 screws shipped to me vs going out and spending an unknown amount of time in traffic and then searching through bins for a part that they may or may not have then waiting in line to pay for the item then dealing with all the crazy drivers out there to get back home.

This could be hours of my life spent being frustrated out in the wild rather than at home drinking beer and playing pinball.

I know which way I'm leaning

#6264 1 year ago

After seeing some amazing apron decals being made by Mikonos, but feeling somewhat confused by their availability...I decided to take some initiative and make my own. Very excited to get rid of the Gilmore Girls on the apron that currently stare at me while I play.

ApronDecals_small (resized).png
#6265 1 year ago
Quoted from Scandell:

After seeing some amazing apron decals being made by Mikonos, but feeling somewhat confused by their availability...I decided to take some initiative and make my own. Very excited to get rid of the Gilmore Girls on the apron that currently stare at me while I play.

Lol, glad I’m not the only one confused about that Mikonos thread.

Great work on those decals! That’s a huge improvement - well done!

#6266 1 year ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Pending on the stripper, they should be slightly loose and bladed at a slight angle when you pull to strip the wire, if they are too snug then it will chew through and cut strains away or break the wire.

"Stripper"?

#6267 1 year ago

Hey gang what bulb is used in the palantir eye of Sauron mod? i am fixing a game for a friend and the bulb is bad. I thought i would ask before i used a knife on it and cut away the epoxy.

#6268 1 year ago
Quoted from Astill:

Hey gang what bulb is used in the palantir eye of Sauron mod? i am fixing a game for a friend and the bulb is bad. I thought i would ask before i used a knife on it and cut away the epoxy.

Depends on which version: Jay's original went thru several iterations/versions. They may be the same or may differ. Jay did use epoxy on his, usually black.

The one's I've produced use a Comet 4SMD Wedge - Warm White. I use a clear adhesive sealant from DAP.

#6269 1 year ago

Figuring out gold foil...for the middle apron decal

3DAC2C87-FFCB-4F64-BF45-2E26AAFA46CA (resized).jpeg
#6270 1 year ago
Quoted from Scandell:

Figuring out gold foil...for the middle apron decal
[quoted image]

looks really good , I would love to get a set when you are done

#6271 1 year ago

Long time since I had a LOTR but trying to remember how you know you have completed one of the three main mb's?

Watching youtube even when they go solid, they aren't necessarily finished?

Thanks

#6272 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Long time since I had a LOTR but trying to remember how you know you have completed one of the three main mb's?
Watching youtube even when they go solid, they aren't necessarily finished?
Thanks

When they are lit solid you have played each of those multi-balls.

#6273 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Long time since I had a LOTR but trying to remember how you know you have completed one of the three main mb's?
Watching youtube even when they go solid, they aren't necessarily finished?
Thanks

They have different endings. A good way to know if you’re done is getting a Gift of the Elves. You get one when you complete a MB.

#6274 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Long time since I had a LOTR but trying to remember how you know you have completed one of the three main mb's?
Watching youtube even when they go solid, they aren't necessarily finished?
Thanks

collect SUPER JACKPOT!!

#6275 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Long time since I had a LOTR but trying to remember how you know you have completed one of the three main mb's?
Watching youtube even when they go solid, they aren't necessarily finished?
Thanks

SUUUPEERRRR JACKPOT OOONNNEEEEEE!

One of the best parts of the game is JRD's call outs.

#6276 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Long time since I had a LOTR but trying to remember how you know you have completed one of the three main mb's?
Watching youtube even when they go solid, they aren't necessarily finished?
Thanks

I beat The a Two Towers mode last night. The happy music kicks in and you go into a celebratory point collection mode. Showed animation of Gandalf on a white horse.

For Fellowship, it shows Merry and Pippen getting drunk and dancing. Same music...

#6277 1 year ago

Holding the flipper to view the status report should also tell you. Those MBs are hard to finish!

ff95ab02655fe2f1d5f9f025b8e1db0d35ba4b94 (resized).jpg

#6278 1 year ago

Looking for some suggestions on the best way to get at the post under the sword to replace the clear plastic post. I'm hoping there's an easier way than removing the whole sword but I can't see how. The bottom is just the thread coming out of the T-nut so it has to come out from above the playfield. Any advice?

Edit: got it sorted releasing all the nuts nearby (2 sword and on on the sling) I could get enough clearance to get it out.

IMG_20200717_165632 (resized).jpgIMG_20200717_165700 (resized).jpg

#6279 1 year ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Looking for some suggestions on the best way to get at the post under the sword to replace the clear plastic post. I'm hoping there's an easier way than removing the whole sword but I can't see how. The bottom is just the thread coming out of the T-nut so it has to come out from above the playfield. Any advice?
Edit: got it sorted releasing all the nuts nearby (2 sword and on on the sling) I could get enough clearance to get it out.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Think you can remove screw at the top of the sword, and raise it up enough to access the post.

From what I recall at least...

#6280 1 year ago

I bought a LOTR about six months ago and while I love it, the last owner put so many weird colored LEDs in it that it looks like it belongs in a casino. I bought the OCD board and while it made it better, I just can't deal with all the weird colors. Instead of trying to find the right LED color, at this point I just want to revert it back to incandescents. Is there a list out there of how many incandescents I need? I have no problem buying more than I need since they're so cheap but I want to make sure I have the minimum at least and all the right part numbers. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

#6281 1 year ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

I bought a LOTR about six months ago and while I love it, the last owner put so many weird colored LEDs in it that it looks like it belongs in a casino. I bought the OCD board and while it made it better, I just can't deal with all the weird colors. Instead of trying to find the right LED color, at this point I just want to revert it back to incandescents. Is there a list out there of how many incandescents I need? I have no problem buying more than I need since they're so cheap but I want to make sure I have the minimum at least and all the right part numbers. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

From the manual. Probably close to accurate.

lotr bulbs (resized).JPG
#6282 1 year ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

I bought a LOTR about six months ago and while I love it, the last owner put so many weird colored LEDs in it that it looks like it belongs in a casino. I bought the OCD board and while it made it better, I just can't deal with all the weird colors. Instead of trying to find the right LED color, at this point I just want to revert it back to incandescents. Is there a list out there of how many incandescents I need? I have no problem buying more than I need since they're so cheap but I want to make sure I have the minimum at least and all the right part numbers. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Follow this LED bulb guide and you will be a happy camper. No need to pay for a fancy kit. Just buy each bulb separately.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings

#6283 1 year ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

I bought a LOTR about six months ago and while I love it, the last owner put so many weird colored LEDs in it that it looks like it belongs in a casino. I bought the OCD board and while it made it better, I just can't deal with all the weird colors. Instead of trying to find the right LED color, at this point I just want to revert it back to incandescents. Is there a list out there of how many incandescents I need? I have no problem buying more than I need since they're so cheap but I want to make sure I have the minimum at least and all the right part numbers. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

If you want to sell that OCD board, let me know! Thanks

#6284 1 year ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

I bought a LOTR about six months ago and while I love it, the last owner put so many weird colored LEDs in it that it looks like it belongs in a casino. I bought the OCD board and while it made it better, I just can't deal with all the weird colors. Instead of trying to find the right LED color, at this point I just want to revert it back to incandescents. Is there a list out there of how many incandescents I need? I have no problem buying more than I need since they're so cheap but I want to make sure I have the minimum at least and all the right part numbers. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

why just replace all the colored leds with warm white smds?

#6285 1 year ago

Quick question regarding Balrog - how high does he normally sit above the playfield? I just tightened the base plate of his mech under the playfield which was loose but I wanted to check to see what a normal height for him is above the playfield. I want to make sure he doesn't rub or scratch. If this is a little low any advice on how to tighten him so he sits higher? Everything feels pretty snug but I feel he's got a slight lean. Just wanted to check if this is looking normal.

Thanks!

IMG_20200720_205959 (resized).jpg
#6286 1 year ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Quick question regarding Balrog - how high does he normally sit above the playfield? I just tightened the base plate of his mech under the playfield which was loose but I wanted to check to see what a normal height for him is above the playfield. I want to make sure he doesn't rub or scratch. If this is a little low any advice on how to tighten him so he sits higher? Everything feels pretty snug but I feel he's got a slight lean. Just wanted to check if this is looking normal.
Thanks![quoted image]

That looks about right to me. My pin is still pretty stock, with few adjustments. My Balrog sits in the same position, with the line where the ball hits him at the same height as the rubber rings to the left and right of him.

#6287 1 year ago

Mine appears more level. You can see there are 2 lines of wear marks from the ball on yours where it has sagged, and only 1 line on mine. Been a while since I have had that apart, but others may know the trick to adjust it.

balrog bottom (resized).jpg

#6288 1 year ago

Thanks there was definitely some adjustment when I tightened up the base plate as the screws were significantly loose so I think that would account for the two lines of wear. I'll keep an eye on it but he does appear to be a similar height just with a little lean

Edit - added the old pic to show how he sat before (lined up a little differently as i was taking a pic of the blue nub)

IMG_20200511_175729 (resized).jpg
#6289 1 year ago

Bye Bye the club.
I sold my LOTR for a Turtles.
too long solo games, versus family friendly coop mode.
I know I'll miss you, but pinball is even better when pleasure is shared
enjoy !

#6290 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Bye Bye the club.
I sold my LOTR for a Turtles.
too long solo games, versus family friendly coop mode.
I know I'll miss you, but pinball is even better when pleasure is shared
enjoy !

While that makes me sad, I totally understand. I sold my Tron to be able to afford a JJ POTC. I never thought I would sell that game I'd had since NIB.

#6291 1 year ago

Hi all, just bought a LOTR standard edition. My pinball come with CPU and DISPLAY v.6.0
My questions:
to upgrade to standard 10.0 i need just the CPU + DISPLAY roms upgrade? Audio is needed too?
worth to make the conversion to 10.2 (LE edition)? This will add me the option to install a cool shaker motor

A LOTR converted to LOTR LE have compatibility problems or work fine?

#6292 1 year ago
Quoted from CreoPinball:

Hi all, just bought a LOTR standard edition. My pinball come with CPU and DISPLAY v.6.0
My questions:
to upgrade to standard 10.0 i need just the CPU + DISPLAY roms upgrade? Audio is needed too?
worth to make the conversion to 10.2 (LE edition)? This will add me the option to install a cool shaker motor
A LOTR converted to LOTR LE have compatibility problems or work fine?

Audio shouldn't be needed, just the CPU and display ROMS. If you want to add a shaker then you'll need CPU ROM 10.02 and the PAL chip. The display ROM still stays the same at 10.0.

So if you're upgrading be sure to get the 10.2 CPU and 10.0 Display ROMS, getting the 10.0 CPU just wouldn't make sense at this point. You can always add the PAL chip and shaker motor later on.

No issues on the LE upgrade and we don't have to look at the golden prick on the backglass as well, win win for standard editions

#6293 1 year ago

I have a few scuffs on the inside cabinet wall that I'd like to touch up.

Anyone know what paint would be a perfect match?

Thanks

#6294 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I have a few scuffs on the inside cabinet wall that I'd like to touch up.
Anyone know what paint would be a perfect match?
Thanks

Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black has always matched well for me on black cabinets

#6295 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I have a few scuffs on the inside cabinet wall that I'd like to touch up.
Anyone know what paint would be a perfect match?
Thanks

Sillyoldelf side blades would be a perfect match!

#6296 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black has always matched well for me on black cabinets

I guess it's recommended to pull the playfield out and then spray the entire cabinet wall?

#6297 1 year ago

Also, is there a paint that you could brush on to just touch up spots until I get around to spraying the entire wall?

#6298 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Also, is there a paint that you could brush on to just touch up spots until I get around to spraying the entire wall?

That Rustoleum I recommended is a brush on paint

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-32-oz-Ultra-Cover-Semi-Gloss-Black-General-Purpose-Paint-1974502/100208855

#6299 1 year ago

I upgraded to the 10.2 roms and a shaker motor. I highly recommend it. If you ever think you will get a shaker motor, why not upgrade to the 10.2 now?

Quoted from CreoPinball:

Hi all, just bought a LOTR standard edition. My pinball come with CPU and DISPLAY v.6.0
My questions:
to upgrade to standard 10.0 i need just the CPU + DISPLAY roms upgrade? Audio is needed too?
worth to make the conversion to 10.2 (LE edition)? This will add me the option to install a cool shaker motor
A LOTR converted to LOTR LE have compatibility problems or work fine?

#6300 1 year ago

Is this the stuff? Google gives me 99% American sites, but I did find this one:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rust-oleum-painter-s-touch-painter-s-touch-multi-purpose-paint-in-semi-gloss-black-946-ml/1000140786

Also, do you find it to be a good match to the stock inside walls, so I can just touch up a couple of spots?

Thanks again!

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