Quoted from Gogdog:And I now see the cliffy that is made for the blue nub of LOTR:
Yeah I'm not sure how it's held on, maybe some double sided tape along with the first stud drops through it "shrug".
I see what you mean about the two screw vs the one but even if the blue rubber moves a bit that's not going to wear the PF it's the guide digging down, Stern was too cheap to add washers to the posts as where Williams Bally always had on their posts. I see the Cliffy's fix but wonder with the over lap the extends outward into the lanes does it interfere with the ball travels? Maybe someone who has one can chime in on the install and if it affects the balls path of motion.
Quoted from Gogdog:Is this the wear spot you are talking about?
Yes. If it makes you feel better, mine's a lot worse.
Quoted from yyyyyikes:Yes. If it makes you feel better, mine's a lot worse.
No...it doesn't make me feel better....I feel your pain! (more people need empathy).
Quoted from DeathHimself:I see the Cliffy's fix but wonder with the over lap the extends outward into the lanes does it interfere with the ball travels? Maybe someone who has one can chime in on the install and if it affects the balls path of motion.
For sure the ball doesn't touch the cliffy on the Legolas ramp side (if the ball was hitting the orbit guide, the bottom of the ball "sphere" is away from the wall quite a bit so doesn't every touch the PF near the guide). As for the left side (left orbit), it is wider but...the ball would have to be hit just right to clear the blue nub enough to have the bottom of the ball actually touch the cliffy. Most shots to the orbit hub the orbit wall anyway so I wouldn't be worried about it.
Quoted from DeathHimself:I see what you mean about the two screw vs the one but even if the blue rubber moves a bit that's not going to wear the PF it's the guide digging down,
Not quite. Well...yes and no.
I have only the tiniest of marks on the playfield due to the actual guide rubbing on the PF. The BIG damage comes from the blue nub holder.
Here is an exaggerated picture of what happens. The ball hits the blue nub, and since there is only one screw, it can rotate from the ball hits. Then when the orbit guide is hit, and moves, the corner of this holder digs into the PF.
Quoted from Gogdog:Here is an exaggerated picture of what happens. The ball hits the blue nub, and since there is only one screw, it can rotate from the ball hits. Then when the orbit guide is hit, and moves, the corner of this holder digs into the PF.
[quoted image]
Exactly this. The blue pad is angled like 20 degrees down, i've just pushed it back with my thumb - got to be worth putting another screw in.
Quoted from yyyyyikes:Exactly this. The blue pad is angled like 20 degrees down, i've just pushed it back with my thumb - got to be worth putting another screw in.
I crazy glued that shit
Quoted from yyyyyikes:Exactly this. The blue pad is angled like 20 degrees down, i've just pushed it back with my thumb - got to be worth putting another screw in.
Exactly my thought. Like if we can get the metal holder from a stern machine that uses two screws, it would take 10 seconds to drill the second hole.
You can get replacement "blue nubs of death" rubber...but what about the metal holder?
This whole problem is further compounded by the fact the rubber is sitting "higher" than the bottom of the holder! If this was reversed, the rubber would be rubbing against the PF and the metal of the holder would be much farther away from the PF.
All this being said, I do like the idea of using these types of protectors in between lanes. They are thinner than a standard post/rubber. They just need to be adjusted so they don't cause PF damage. If these were used on ACNC, where the shots are super tight, it could have really helped opening up the shots.
Just played the game since the "refurb" - it's twice as good. Easy to forget the impact small changes can have. For instance, changing the rubbers in the ORC lanes means that the pops fire like crazy - like I see on PAPA videos and wonder how come a Stern can do that. Was worth the 12 odd hours today, 3 of which were trying to bodge the Start button and burning my hand with the 1.99 iron.
Quoted from Gogdog:All this being said, I do like the idea of using these types of protectors in between lanes. They are thinner than a standard post/rubber. They just need to be adjusted so they don't cause PF damage. If these were used on ACNC, where the shots are super tight, it could have really helped opening up the shots.
I'd like them if you could get other colours.
Quoted from Gogdog:ere is an exaggerated picture of what happens. The ball hits the blue nub, and since there is only one screw, it can rotate from the ball hits. Then when the orbit guide is hit, and moves, the corner of this holder digs into the PF.
Holy crap, I have never seen mine move like that at all. Make me wonder should we sink another screw in there.
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:I crazy glued that shit
You...might be on to something. I'm seeing that the blue rubber comes with an adhesive, which probably wears off. So adding super glue as an adhesive between the rubber and metal parts...might work. As long as the super glue sticks well enough to the rubber and metal. But if it does, then that would cause the holder to not rotate.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Holy crap, I have never seen mine move like that at all. Make me wonder should we sink another screw in there.
I loosened the screw and rotated it by hand...just to make it easier to see what was happening. The holder is so long though (basically the same height as the orbit guide itself), that even a very small rotation will damage the PF.
Anyway, I see the metal guide holder for LOTR here ->
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-9366-00
But my search ability is failing me....trying to find a 2 screw stern holder for another game. I'm betting there is one available that would be the right dimensions for LOTR that would only require drilling a hole.
Quoted from Gogdog:You...might be on to something. I'm seeing that the blue rubber comes with an adhesive, which probably wears off. So adding super glue as an adhesive between the rubber and metal parts...might work. As long as the super glue sticks well enough to the rubber and metal. But if it does, then that would cause the holder to not rotate.
I loosened the screw and rotated it by hand...just to make it easier to see what was happening. The holder is so long though (basically the same height as the orbit guide itself), that even a very small rotation will damage the PF.
Anyway, I see the metal guide holder for LOTR here ->
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-9366-00
But my search ability is failing me....trying to find a 2 screw stern holder for another game. I'm betting there is one available that would be the right dimensions for LOTR that would only require drilling a hole.
That is why I did it. Never had a problem since. Sure the rubber gets black from the ball but I just use that stuff from pinball life that renews the rubber and good to go again
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:That is why I did it. Never had a problem since. Sure the rubber gets black from the ball but I just use that stuff from pinball life that renews the rubber and good to go again
Hmm...novus 1 always seems to work for me, but maybe other cleaners work better.
Ok, so ….looking at the manuals directly ->
ghosbusters metal holder is: 535-1355-00 but no one seems to sell it?
uses blue pad: 626-5057-01 3/4 x 1-1/16 x 1/4 inch thick
LOTR: 535-9366-00 is available
blue pad: 626-5057-00 1" wide x 1-1/8 high x 1/4 inch thick.
Spiderman....uses this ->
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-9648-00
but I don't see how it attaches/screws through to the ramp.
I don't really mind even making a second hole in the LOTR holder.....but need some kind of spacer that I can screw into.
Anyway, if someone has any idea here for a second hole, let me know. I'm sure there is a simple solution that will not eventually fail (like glue).
Am I being obsessive about this? Yes. Especially since I'll probably be getting a cliffy anyway because there is already PF damage that should be hidden from view now.
Quoted from Gogdog:but I don't see how it attaches/screws through to the ramp.
There's 4 in spiderman - 2 thick bit of rubber and 2 thin bits (in the doc ock) they have a thin metal plate much smaller than the LOTR one.
2 screws through the plate into the ramp. 1 above, 1 below ball height i guess.
Quoted from yyyyyikes:There's 4 in spiderman - 2 thick bit of rubber and 2 thin bits (in the doc ock) they have a thin metal plate much smaller than the LOTR one.
2 screws through the plate into the ramp. 1 above, 1 below ball height i guess.
Right......what I don't know is what types of screws or spacers they used, etc.
Quoted from PinballTilt:Cliff makes a protector for the area under the blue rubber. He sells it as part of his kit and it worked well for me on my last game.
I raised mine up and placed a narrow piece of Mylar under the blue cushion and metal bracket holding it. I actually looked at a nice LOTR a couple years ago, and his game was nice except it had an obvious gouge in the playfield under that metal bracket and blue cushion. I was really surprised it was so chewed up. It was a deal breaker for me, because it was pretty obvious. So I recently protected mine a little bit.
Quoted from Gogdog:Right......what I don't know is what types of screws or spacers they used, etc.
Hah Well that was 5am in the morning by that point. Eff-all sleep last night, had nightmares about an ex-girlfriend and the Gimli switch.
The VE manual specs are:
Rubber part: 626-5077-00 RUBBER BUMPER, 1/4", .70 X 1.00, BLUE
Screws: 237-5983-02 SCREW, 4-40 X 1/4" PFH MS - BLACK
and the Plate : 535-9648-00 BUMPER HOLDER - FASTENED
I think that's the correct one - i.e. the wider one more like the one in LOTR
I have playfield damage most noticeable at the blue nob and in the back under the ring. I know I can prevent more damage on the blue nob with cliffy protectors or washers, but is there anything I can do with the one in the back? Seems the damage has already been done
Will give it a full playfield teardown and cleaning soon, just waiting on my Arwen protector and cliffy's. I bought the game like this a few weeks ago, and I don't think it has been cleaned in years
WhatsApp Image 2020-05-08 at 12.20.16 (resized).jpegWhatsApp Image 2020-05-08 at 12.23.19 (resized).jpeg
I'm going to try the high power ones, well at least one, as i've had them in my draw a few years now. Anyone with the medium ones in have a report on how good they are?
I agree that the power on the originals is not that bad. It's not great - the sword ramp is the biggest fail/drain, so I do feel a little more power would be nice. I have not really noticed the flippers go weak over time either.</blockquotI love them. I don't get the air balls that some do off of Legolas or tower bounce outs. The Gimli shot does take a little more finesse though. The high power ones are hot garbage. Terry should just stop selling them and figure out a way to carry the medium coils.
Quoted from yyyyyikes:Hah Well that was 5am in the morning by that point. Eff-all sleep last night, had nightmares about an ex-girlfriend and the Gimli switch.
The VE manual specs are:
Rubber part: 626-5077-00 RUBBER BUMPER, 1/4", .70 X 1.00, BLUE
Screws: 237-5983-02 SCREW, 4-40 X 1/4" PFH MS - BLACK
and the Plate : 535-9648-00 BUMPER HOLDER - FASTENED
I think that's the correct one - i.e. the wider one more like the one in LOTR
Yeah, looks like Deadpool (and probably a bunch of others) uses the same rubber bumper holder. And the holder...is just a flat piece of metal with 2 countersunk holes, and it screws into threading that is on whatever ramp. Here is Deadpool ->
So....getting that type holder isn't really going to do anything. The ghostbusters one would work though...because it has the threading for the screws on the holder itself (not the other way around for Spiderman/Deadpool/etc).
How does one attach two pieces of metal where both sides need to be flat to the surface and not use a nut? Hopefully I can find something readily available at the hardware store today.
Quoted from RobDutch:I have playfield damage most noticeable at the blue nob and in the back under the ring. I know I can prevent more damage on the blue nob with cliffy protectors or washers, but is there anything I can do with the one in the back? Seems the damage has already been done
Will give it a full playfield teardown and cleaning soon, just waiting on my Arwen protector and cliffy's. I bought the game like this a few weeks ago, and I don't think it has been cleaned in years
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like you need a new blue rubber too. I looked at the one in the back on mine...I'm sure you could put washers under its posts as well, though that damage just looks like it was loose at one point causing the movement. Of course....if there were washers under that metal guide, if it was loose it wouldn't have caused the PF damage. Thankfully....that damage is not seen by the player.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:I love them. I don't get the air balls that some do off of Legolas or tower bounce outs. The Gimli shot does take a little more finesse though.
The mediums yeah? I must say I am tempted and now scared of the power of the big ones. The stock ones are 99% alright, I just don't know how many more times I want to lose a ball down the middle on DTR.
Quoted from Gogdog:How does one attach two pieces of metal where both sides need to be flat to the surface and not use a nut?
Yeah, the hole in the rails must be threaded. Only way. I'm going to bodge it for today and use something sticky but removable.
Quoted from yyyyyikes:The mediums yeah? I must say I am tempted and now scared of the power of the big ones. The stock ones are 99% alright, I just don't know how many more times I want to lose a ball down the middle on DTR.
That's exactly what made me swap them, the center shot on DTR.
Quoted from Gogdog:Looks like you need a new blue rubber too. I looked at the one in the back on mine...I'm sure you could put washers under its posts as well, though that damage just looks like it was loose at one point causing the movement. Of course....if there were washers under that metal guide, if it was loose it wouldn't have caused the PF damage. Thankfully....that damage is not seen by the player.
New rubberset including the blue one is already here
Was thinking it became loose too.. Glad it can't be seen indeed. Will put washers under the one in the back, under the blue one and put mylar/protector under the ring to protect the spot.
Also: I would like to replace the regular bulbs with leds, anyone know which ones (non ghosting) would work well? If possible from a European supplier, hate to pay $60 for shipping and getting 21% of taxes on top
Quoted from RobDutch:Also: I would like to replace the regular bulbs with leds, anyone know which ones (non ghosting) would work well? If possible from a European supplier, hate to pay $60 for shipping and getting 21% of taxes on top
Got to recommend the NoFlix Plus from PinballCenter. Always used them, and the last batch was even better. Could try to get a vid of my machine if you like? the insert "plus" bulbs are full non-ghosting, the GIs are very good, you may-may want an OCD board.
The only bulbs I'm not too sure about that they make (though only tried one type) are the flashers, they don't really seem SO bright, though the reds in the pop bumpers are really good.
Quoted from Gogdog:Exactly my thought. Like if we can get the metal holder from a stern machine that uses two screws, it would take 10 seconds to drill the second hole.
[quoted image]
You can get replacement "blue nubs of death" rubber...but what about the metal holder?
This whole problem is further compounded by the fact the rubber is sitting "higher" than the bottom of the holder! If this was reversed, the rubber would be rubbing against the PF and the metal of the holder would be much farther away from the PF.
[quoted image]
All this being said, I do like the idea of using these types of protectors in between lanes. They are thinner than a standard post/rubber. They just need to be adjusted so they don't cause PF damage. If these were used on ACNC, where the shots are super tight, it could have really helped opening up the shots.
I flipped the bnod upside down and drilled a new hole that allowed the rubber to sit below the metal edge of the holder to keep the holder from rubbing the playfield.
Quoted from yyyyyikes:I'd like them if you could get other colours.
a black sharpie works well to turn it into a black nub of death
Quoted from pinballjj:I flipped the bnod upside down and drilled a new hole that allowed the rubber to sit below the metal edge of the holder to keep the holder from rubbing the playfield.
OK...so your metal holder is still only attached with one screw, but the rubber is flipped so it sits lower than the metal holder. Interesting.
Thought I'd take a break from working on the LOTR sound package converting every call out from mono track to stereo tracks then applying stereo effect, finally amplifying every track to a normalized setting without clipping ...my eyes and ears are killing me lol.
I like the idea of flipping the blue nub upside on the ball guide, can you post a picture of it? Do you have the blue rubber resting on the PF or just hovering above it.
Quoted from yyyyyikes:Got to recommend the NoFlix Plus from PinballCenter. Always used them, and the last batch was even better. Could try to get a vid of my machine if you like? the insert "plus" bulbs are full non-ghosting, the GIs are very good, you may-may want an OCD board.
The only bulbs I'm not too sure about that they make (though only tried one type) are the flashers, they don't really seem SO bright, though the reds in the pop bumpers are really good.
Thanks for the advice! I have ordered there before and shipping is only €15 from there I would like a video if you have one haha! Are the PLUS bulbs much better (less ghosting) then the normal NoFlix bulbs (they should also be non ghosting if I read the site correct)? And if I would install these leds, an OCD board would not be needed anymore right?
Quoted from RobDutch:Thanks for the advice! I have ordered there before and shipping is only €15 from there I would like a video if you have one haha! Are the PLUS bulbs much better (less ghosting) then the normal NoFlix bulbs (they should also be non ghosting if I read the site correct)? And if I would install these leds, an OCD board would not be needed anymore right?
Lotr doesn't play well with LEDs. It has a lot of dimming effects that LEDs can't replicate very well. The led ocd board would help regain most of the original look of the incandescents. Of course now you're talking a good amount of money
Quoted from PinballTilt:The led ocd board would help regain most of the original look of the incandescents
Have it in my LOTR and absolutely love it, it's a must if you are going to LED the machine and get the GI Gizmo as well for the LED GI's.
Ok well....the ghostbusters holder isn't going to work. Looks like stern also uses it on their new black knight.
They have really upgraded the part. Not only does it have 2 screws, but also 2 slots to prevent any rotation as well. Regardless, the part isn't sold by anyone anyway, but maybe we could have gotten it direct from stern.
Actually...if we can find the black knight/ghostbusters holder I think it would work. You would just dremel off the tabs. Would need to buy a new rubber though since its meant for 3/4" long pads, not 1".
Quoted from DeathHimself:I like the idea of flipping the blue nub upside on the ball guide, can you post a picture of it? Do you have the blue rubber resting on the PF or just hovering above it.
The thing is...the original blue rubber is the same height as the metal holder.
So...you could flip it around, and make a new hole, though the new hole would be very close to the top if you wanted the blue rubber to be "below" the bottom of the metal holder. Almost like...making a notch at the top of the rubber instead of a hole. I would also like to see a pic though.
At the hardware store, I found some stuff that is close.
I found a 6-32 threaded (ideal would be 4-40 to match the other screw) 1/4" spacer. But ...I would need to attach it to the metal holder. I can't weld...though I could try and solder it on...though not sure how strong that would be?
This would work...also its 6-32 threaded ->
Though would look goofy on the outside of the holder->
Another idea I had....why not just Dremel off 1/4" from the bottom of the metal holder? Yes, with 1 screw it could still rotate, but the rubber is what would be hitting the PF at the bottom, not the metal holder corner.
Perhaps that's the easiest solution?
Quoted from RobDutch:Thanks for the advice! I have ordered there before and shipping is only €15 from there I would like a video if you have one haha! Are the PLUS bulbs much better (less ghosting) then the normal NoFlix bulbs (they should also be non ghosting if I read the site correct)?
I really wish they'd list the differences between plus/non-plus on the site. I suspect it's colour quality and brightness mainly. I had a few non-plus in and didn't really notice any difference, but they were a slightly different colour so i wouldn't. I don't have enough of the non-plus to answer this. Get the plus is what i'd advise - i know they're more expensive, but you're only doing it once and they are good.
Quoted from RobDutch:And if I would install these leds, an OCD board would not be needed anymore right?
Well, I'll test this for you - but I don't have an OCD GI board (Gizmo) which is why I said you may need one, plan is to get one at some point.
For the inserts, I had an OCD in my Spiderman and actually took it out, as the bulbs are better and brighter without it.
I'll have a look at the LOTR - just got a couple more to replace and I'll show you what it looks like with and without.
It may be me but I've found the GI doesn't like mixed strings very much of normal and LEDs, you really can see the bad dimming/flickering.
I've replaced all but 4 bulbs in the machine - and I think they look great, the GI colours are bright and banging but still plan on tryng a gizmo board.
Does anyone here know of a different product other than Gizmo? And is the gizmo worth getting?
Quoted from yyyyyikes:I really wish they'd list the differences between plus/non-plus on the site. I suspect it's colour quality and brightness mainly. I had a few non-plus in and didn't really notice any difference, but they were a slightly different colour so i wouldn't. I don't have enough of the non-plus to answer this. Get the plus is what i'd advise - i know they're more expensive, but you're only doing it once and they are good.
Well, I'll test this for you - but I don't have an OCD GI board (Gizmo) which is why I said you may need one, plan is to get one at some point.
For the inserts, I had an OCD in my Spiderman and actually took it out, as the bulbs are better and brighter without it.
I'll have a look at the LOTR - just got a couple more to replace and I'll show you what it looks like with and without.
It may be me but I've found the GI doesn't like mixed strings very much of normal and LEDs, you really can see the bad dimming/flickering.
I've replaced all but 4 bulbs in the machine - and I think they look great, the GI colours are bright and banging but still plan on tryng a gizmo board.
Does anyone here know of a different product other than Gizmo? And is the gizmo worth getting?
Thanks for your message!
They do list what both kinds of LEDs offer (plus and non-plus) but how I read it is that they're both non ghosting, but the plus is even more non ghosting or something So the difference is in colour mostly but they don't ghost either? Is the Plus set including gi or do you have to order those seperately? (Which ones do you have? )
Thank you in advance for showing the difference with and without the ocd board. Will look for an ocd board but it seems that they are not for sale in Europe, only found a Spooky one here in the Netherlands.
Screenshot_2020-05-09-11-06-48 (resized).pngQuoted from RobDutch:They do list what both kinds of LEDs offer (plus and non-plus) but how I read it is that they're both non ghosting, but the plus is even more non ghosting or something So the difference is in colour mostly but they don't ghost either? Is the Plus set including gi or do you have to order those seperately? (Which ones do you have? )
No, the plus sets are just the inserts. I'd recommend you have a look at the layout first - I'm not sure how much money you save buying a set, or if you can order the bulbs separately.
Quoted from RobDutch:Thank you in advance for showing the difference with and without the ocd board. Will look for an ocd board but it seems that they are not for sale in Europe, only found a Spooky one here in the Netherlands.
[quoted image]
Well, I have one if you want one! But I think you'd have to order the Gizmo from the US $49 (and the OCD is $135).
Personally, I'm in no rush for a Gizmo, as I think it looks fine without.
Sorry, having a bit of a mare with the video - never filmed before - don't have my own smartphone...
didn't realise i had to create a youtube account
this is how mine is at the moment, couple of bulbs not in - led ocd installed
notice the fading on the bulbs up the shooter lane - bayonet noflix gi bulbs - smooth and the same as the noflix+ inserts.
the back board has 4 standard incandescents in the green potd,
the orange ring bulbs are NoFlix - bright and still pretty flawless to my eyes as are the backboard main lighting, yellow noflix
i will replace the green ones, but want some frosted green wedge bases first.
a side note - don't get frosted bulbs for the GI, they are much dimmer than the standard ones.
i'll rip the ocd board out and film again - i'll bet there's very little difference (hope that's not true though - spent good money on this thing).
Thank you yyyyyikes ! That looks great I always thought frosted was the way to go with gi, but they are dimmer then the regular bulbs?
Quoted from yyyyyikes:No, the plus sets are just the inserts. I'd recommend you have a look at the layout first - I'm not sure how much money you save buying a set, or if you can order the bulbs separately.
Aah okay.. And those sets are colour matched with the insert colour. Will have to do some counting and calculating. Might just buy a load of noflix plus warm?/cold? white non frosted ones for the inserts and gi I have colour matched LEDs in my Shadow, but I never tried white leds under inserts so don't know how that looks on this game.
Quoted from RobDutch:Might just buy a load of noflix plus warm?/cold? white non frosted ones for the inserts and gi I have colour matched LEDs in my Shadow, but I never tried white leds under inserts so don't know how that looks on this game.
I would recommend colour matching rather than white-lighting the inserts, and you definitely want warm for the GI if you are going all white - this is where LEDding becomes a decision as normal bulbs' white lighting is what they are good at. I made the decision to change it on LOTR but this is the only game I've LEDded the GI, I've taken leds out in others that have been modded. I'm really happy with the result - it gives the game a cartoon/comic book feel, but white leds i'm on the fence with...i really like the idea that they save electricity though, and that should be encouraged everywhere.
Also, with regards to power saving, https://www.pinballshop.nl/cabinet-parts/backbox/bee-light-led-buis-60-cm-200khz/
Quoted from yyyyyikes:I made the decision to change it on LOTR but this is the only game I've LEDded the GI, I've taken leds out in others that have been modded.
Sorry everyone to keep posting, but I should add to this that I've not tried it - i've not got the NoFlix non-frosted GI warm whites, which may well look really good. I've just seen it where games have been colour-ledded with frosted led bulbs. The effect is always good but has lost the game's original feel.
Ok, not sure why I'm obsessing over this but I want to find the ideal permanent solution.
I found what stern is using for their standoff on the original metal holder.
They are using a 4-40 through-hole self-clinching standoff, with a hex-width of .1875". Not sure if they are using stainless steel or just steel. Luckily, Fastenal carries a big variety of them and I have a local branch. Its closed today but hopefully my branch carrries them locally. ->
https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/clinch-fasteners/self-clinching-standoffs/610051?categoryId=610051&level=3&isExpanded=true&productFamilyId=22741
I think they are drilling a hole, and then doing a spot weld.
My idea is getting the larger .25" hex width, and drilling a hole and either not doing anything, or putting a tiny spot of solder to act as a weld. Then you would drill another hole on the orbit guide and use a flush mount 1/4" or 5/16" 4-40 machine screw.
Optionally...I think it would be best to get this other bumper rubber ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-blue-rubber-bumper-626-5065-00.html
Its used on Sopranos. Instead of 1 1/16" tall, its 1 1/4", so it would extend 1/16" - 1/8" below the metal holder. With the additional use of #8 washers under the orbit guide, the blue rubber hopefully won't rub on the PF. If it does, maybe just trimming it up a bit would be fine. Though I'm getting the orbit cliffy so it would just rub on the cliffy.
Haha obsession is good
Here are some pics of what I did, in your pic the bnod is above the holder by 1/16?,by flipping and drilling the bnod say 2mm closer to the edge it now sits about the same below the holder preventing any metal holder to playfield wear ,the bottom edge of the bond rests on the playfield ,, not sure there is any realistic concern of the rubber wearing the playfield
Next time I place a pinball life order I will probably get the taller bnod ,seems it would work fine
If you are really want to add another screw you could use jb epoxy or similar to attach a suitable nut, I am not familiar with using regular solder as a spot weld
20200509_215512 (resized).jpg20200509_215611 (resized).jpg20200509_215547 (resized).jpg20200509_222938 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballjj:Haha obsession is good
Here are some pics of what I did, in your pic the bnod is above the holder by 1/16?,by flipping and drilling the bnod say 2mm closer to the edge it now sits about the same below the holder preventing any metal holder to playfield wear ,the bottom edge of the bond rests on the playfield ,, not sure there is any realistic concern of the rubber wearing the playfield
Next time I place a pinball life order I will probably get the taller bnod ,seems it would work fine
If you are really want to add another screw you could use jb epoxy or similar to attach a suitable nut, I am not familiar with using regular solder as a spot weld[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ok, I'm liking it. And is there enough "meat" on the top of your BNOD that you think there is enough strength that its not going to rip or anything?
Good call on the jb weld. I've actually never used it but its probably about time that I have, though I would need such a small amount if I use the self-clinching standoff.
And wow...I like the Black nub of death! Do you have to occasionally re-sharpie it because it wears off from the ball hits?
I realise I'm incredibly late to this party (17 years late now), but it's only today that I've found out how to use the magnet for destroy the ring. I have selected number of balls "2" several times in the past, not realising that the setting was not being saved and confused that i hadn't seen that the magnet holds the ball.
Well, I set it another couple of times today, and checked on the last time that it remembered it and it did.
Now I know why people say the flippers get weak. It is not time related it is directly the draw from the magnet. It was impossible to shoot the centre ramp a second time. Instead of putting ridiculous flippers in or setting destroy balls back to 1, is there a way to give the magnet a separate power source? or another work around? or do you simply have to over-power the flipper coils?
Quoted from Gogdog:Ok, I'm liking it. And is there enough "meat" on the top of your BNOD that you think there is enough strength that its not going to rip or anything?
Good call on the jb weld. I've actually never used it but its probably about time that I have, though I would need such a small amount if I use the self-clinching standoff.
And wow...I like the Black nub of death! Do you have to occasionally re-sharpie it because it wears off from the ball hits?
it has just enough material at the top so i have not seen this to be an issue but i think it might be even better to have a little more " meat " at the bottom so the 1 1/4 height bnod would be better.
i was surprised but the black sharpie holds up well and does not seem to wear off
Quoted from yyyyyikes:I realise I'm incredibly late to this party (17 years late now), but it's only today that I've found out how to use the magnet for destroy the ring. I have selected number of balls "2" several times in the past, not realising that the setting was not being saved and confused that i hadn't seen that the magnet holds the ball.
Well, I set it another couple of times today, and checked on the last time that it remembered it and it did.
Now I know why people say the flippers get weak. It is not time related it is directly the draw from the magnet. It was impossible to shoot the centre ramp a second time. Instead of putting ridiculous flippers in or setting destroy balls back to 1, is there a way to give the magnet a separate power source? or another work around? or do you simply have to over-power the flipper coils?
have not heard of changing the magnet source. To me the main thing that makes the second shot hard is that for normal ring shots the magnet will suck a close shot in but for the second shot it is more of a pure physical hit that has to have enough power to knock the ball through .
i had the stock coils they were ok but i think faded a bit in long game , the medium strength coils from apb seem a good compromise i did not find them to be dramatically stronger than the stock ones but seem about right .
besides the coils i would make sure your spinner is rotating freely it can dissipate a lot of the ball momentum , make sure it is hanging right( check gallery for pictures) i cleaned mine and lubed it with a tiny drop of teflon lube it really seems to help mediocre shots make the ring.
I want to give a special shout out to DeathHimself for hooking me up with my Gandolf staff mod; it looks fantastic!
DSC00882 (resized).JPGQuoted from pinballjj:have not heard of changing the magnet source. To me the main thing that makes the second shot hard is that for normal ring shots the magnet will suck a close shot in but for the second shot it is more of a pure physical hit that has to have enough power to knock the ball through .
It's way more severe than that. I'd say the flippers were about half as powerful while the ball is being held. The VUKs seemed to have enough power to operate.
I'm going to put the power coils in tomorrow and hopefully not destroy all the nice plastics.
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