Yep. I saw this today. I wasn't keeping track how many shots it took, but it was for certain awarded for RingMB shots and not for anything else. I am not sure if this is dependent on a game setting. I just picked this game up and I am not sure what has been changed from default.

Speaking of EB, I have seen this awarded in both Ring Frenzy and Super Ring Frenzy, although not during the same game. I have read that for RF, one needs to hit a few shots and it's lit after hitting the main ring shot. This was not the case for me. Once the mode started I hit the ring shot immediately and it was awarded. For SRF, I did hit some number of other shots before the center ring, so I am not sure if it awards the same.

Is the gift the only way to light special?

Mystery can light special, as well as extra ball. Depending how your game is going. The poorer the game, the better the reward from mystery I’ve found.

Hey guys, still on the quest to perfect my flippers power. I ended up finding some obscure link https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/0sTHsIevz1w which references a code LLLLLR x 4 before a game which then shows you your flipper fire time in ms. It works! But now I'm trying to determine what's "normal". I find if I flip i'm often seeing pretty close to my min flipper time fire (Adj#53) and so this is narrowing it down for me to replacing the cabinet flipper switches.

Looking for anyone whos got some time (in this crazy time) to maybe try the code and let me know the average flipper time they see. In the link they reference low 30s which I don't typically see. Let me know what your Adj #53,54,55 are set to.

Also for any of the wizened pinball wizards out there, if I'm seeing lower numbers - I am correct in thinking replacing the cab switches could help as they may be registering release too early?

Thanks!

Just put up my best ring multi ball. The 5M shot is either the 9th or 10th shot after the shots are worth 1M. (And I believe the seventh 1M shot awarded an extra ball.) And then after I’m guessing the seventh 1M shot after the 5M shot Special was awarded. I have never seen that before. Is it the seventh shot that’s key? Kind of like the seventh tower shot to award extra ball?

7E451EA3-09E1-4F5C-ACFA-FE687F232B7C (resized).jpeg

Funnily enough, I had an amazing Ring Multiball myself last night. I didn't pay attention to the screen but I must have hit the ring 20 times, it just went on and on.

Wait, they made a LotR pinball machine? That's really awesome, I knew I was in for a wild ride when I registered on this forum! Are these available on sale, or present at bars/restaurants in which your average mortal could play them some day?

Yeah...there are a lot of them out there. Check out https://pinballmap.com/

Great, thanks a lot for that resource!

If your actual flipper time is the same as your min flipper time it's possible your EOS switches aren't working; but since you also didn't mention that they aren't I'll assume they are and this reading is just the length of time time it takes from the time you power on the coil until the EOS switch closes and changes flipper power from drive to hold and that this happens to fall around the same time as you have set in Adj # 53.

I don't believe replacing your cabinet switches will provide any gain here; ideally you want the drive number to be as low as possible to reduce coil heat, but you also want the coil to actually reach the end-of-stroke (EOS) before the EOS switch closes and reduces power to the coil. Properly adjusting flipper EOS switches are going to give you the biggest payback here.

Looking to change out my flipper coils (again). Factory were too weak, the Pinball Life ones are great for the ring, but feel like overkill everywhere else and make shots like the Ent hole almost impossible.

I see some medium strength coils available - anyone have any feedback on these coils in the game?

The APB Medium coils sold here on Pinside are definitely without a doubt the ones to have. Don't overheat during long play, and not too strong to overpower things. Recommend them 110%.

Awesome, thanks for the advice. I'll give those a try!

There's more feedback than you could possibly need in this great thread, not only about coils but about everything LOTR related. I would encourage you to go through the entire thread as you find the time. In this case, it would have saved you the time and expense of the PBL coils but there a bunch of other great information as well.

Yupe, I know how it works. Sometimes it's faster just to ask then to go through the 2000 posts since the last time I tried to read them all. At one point the PBL coils were the only alternative.

The medium coils are just right. I had them on my first LOTR and the ring shot was very reliable. I traded that one, but later found a minty, stock original with the stock coils. They work fine, and I like the challenge of having to hit the center ramp clean to make it thru, and they do seem a bit weaker later in long games. I bought medium coils again as backups. I may go back to them someday. I think many people like them.

Since I installed the APB coils, the ring shot is good but it often bounces out of Barad-dûr and Orthanc shots from the right orbit sail right past more often than not. The ball was also flying off the left ramp but I installed a plastic for that.

My game had the high-power coils installed. The main problem for me was they made the pinball feel like a marble. So I removed them for the APB 'medium' coils and I prefer the feel of the game much, much more.

APB coils are perfect IMO. Had the originals and PBL coils in my game as well and the APB are by far the best option. The PBL coils are great if you want to smash everything on your playfield to bits.

My best time yet!

IMG_20200408_000442 (resized).jpg

Nice one!

Cheers!

This is my second LOTR. On my first one, the ring was much easier to hit, and I think my best time was about 30 secs.

On this current pin, the ring is much harder to hit, so my best time was 56 seconds for the last year!

Did this ever become available for purchase? I would definitely get one

Do you have Destroy the Ring set for one-ball or two-ball play? I currently have mine set for one ball, but may try the other option sometime.

I recently got 32 seconds in 2 ball mode.

One ball. I always leave my games on factory settings, and also like the single ball better.

FYI: I have some more Palantir Crystal Ball mods available here on Pinside. Over 150 sold to satisfied Pinside customers all over the world. Due to parts availability to make them they are probably the last ones I make this year.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1227-williamson-pinball-mods/02988-palantir-eye-of-sauron-crystal-sphere-mod-for-stern-lotr

Thanks!!

Does anyone have fluorescent plastic protectors on their LOTR?
I need to protect my new Arwen plastic, and I don't know yet if I'll use colorless or yellow/red/green ones..

image_62676_2_600x600@2x (resized).jpg

I use the best Arwen protector around. I highly recommend it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-resurrection-of-the-improved-arwen-plastic-protector/page/2

+1

I have one and it’s worth every penny. Awesome mod.

That one looks great!!
Anywhere I can buy it?
The website does not seem to work/be safe

Screenshot_2020-04-12-10-52-44 (resized).png

I would just PM time bandit through Pinside and ask him.

Fingers crossed LotR takes it all....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/round-4-greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-tournament-edition

I agree. I bought that Arwen “slide” and it’s awesome.

I did but he has not been in pinside in a few days.
Guess I'll wait
His product is awesome (atleast on video and what I hear from you guys) so I hope he still sells them!

Does anyone make an upgrade to this?

6CF31348-E335-4891-898E-D93342D7E2EE (resized).jpeg

Does anyone of you have an extra one of these plastics by any chance? Don't really want to spend close to $300 and buy a full set of plastics.

Screenshot_20200412-162214_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg

[Sword ramp switches photo]

Looks similar to the trough switches! Sadly I just replaced trough switch 13 (including new diode). Turns out it was unnecessary, and that there were more switches out in the switch matrix row (pink in photo). Now I'm trying to determine which wire/connection is bad, based on follow up to this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/41#post-4066891
LOTR trough switches (resized).jpegLOTR switch matrix (resized).jpeg

Today is your lucky day! PM sent.

20200413_135556 (resized).jpg

Happy Dance!!! PM'ed back....

Hello

Picked up the palantir mod from AUKraut
A wile back .. it’s awesome and I love it ..

But It has an LED installed behind it
And when it’s activated it flickers on and off

Not the absolute worst ..but I’d love it to fade in and out as I believe should ?

I have incandescent bulbs
I prefer them on this game

Is there a way to have this one LED
.. actually I do have a LED Gandolf staff

So make that 2 LED mods
Fade nice like an incandescent??

I know there’s led ocd unit that I will look into but figured I’d ask for options and opinions

Thanks

You can put a resistor and some capacitors inline with the led. The resistor will control your fade in time and the capacitors your fade out. Easiest place is probably under the playfield where it connects.
Strait power
StraitPower.gif

470ohm resistor on the + and 320uf cap across both sides. You probably also want a diode in there to keep power from going the wrong way once the lamp turns off. The led will be a bit dimmer than normal.
470ohm320uf.gif

So have been doing a lot if searching in this thread trying to find some good tutorial/instructions to light up my Army of the Dead path. From LEDs glued into the figurines to star post LEDs to the original micro processor mod, but slot of it simply talks about the result rather than the how to.
I do not really want to get into the microprocessor thing, but I kind of like how they are triggered by the ball in the tower VUK, just because all other lights are off.
I know the easiest would be to tie them into the 4 lights at the back of the path, and with the star post LEDs you wouldn't even need a resistor or diode if I am not mistaken.
Any direction is greatly appreciated.

sorry Im not so quick to understand how i might wire this ..

Is there any way you could draw it out ?

what voltage should the cap be?
is there a particular value of diode i should use?

i guess the reduction in brightness is a small price to pay for no flicker

Really appreciate the advice

Thanks !!

I just soldered matrix connectors to the ends of 5 mm warm white leds mounted under the 4 figures and tapped into a corresponding matrix bulb on the POTD light on the backboard. I have an ocd light board and did not use any diodes or resistors. I like this wiring as it is interactive with the potd backboard lights.

To me using the star post leds (which have 4 leds per post) under the figures would be way too bright but you can dim the bulbs with some paint if needed. The nice thing about the star post approach is no soldering required, I think comet was going to start to offer a 1 smd flex bulb ( with a prewired connector similar to their 8 smd flex flasher bulbs and 4 led star post ) but I do not find it on their website but they are very good at responding to inquiries .

I think I have some pics of how I did the installation I could send or let me know if you need some guidance with this.

You can probably get away with a 16v cap since the lamps are run on a pulsed 18v and it doesn't burn out a 6v led but I would use 25v to be safe. I think the standard diodes on lamps are 1N4004. You might not need the diode, I haven't looked to see if lotr has diodes at the lamp socket or remote. I was originally thinking of using this same setup to smooth out the flasher above the sword ramp but I haven't had time to play around with it.
PalantirFader (resized).jpg

Turns out I had the exact same problem as pipes 2.5 years ago - one of the green/white wires came unsoldered at the Palantir switch under the playfield. Got my daughter to help hold wires while I re-soldered and all is working again. I even destroyed the ring on my first game back. Nice to feel "whole" again and have all 4 machines working!!

The Palantirs (including yodamingus' Palantir) I made already have a 1N4004 built into the wiring, so all you would need is the cap and resistor. If you are planning on moving to LEDs instead of incandescents in the Inserts I'd suggest using the LED OCD solution as it works perfectly with the Palantir and the LED inserts.

Thanks for all the response

If I did .. yes led ocd for sure
But I really have no desire converting to led’s

The breadboard set up helps for sure
And I just re read that the mod did include a diode

So I’m now wondering
Does it matter where in the line the diode
Is attached..

I’d have to look to see how it’s wired

I don’t want to cut into the mod

If it’s possible maybe make a plug and play sort of in line molex connection..

Not afraid of any soldering. That is the fun part. Would love for you to share those pics of your install if possible.