(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by StrangeSubset1
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There are 5750 posts in this topic. You are on page 113 of 115.
#5601 33 days ago
Quoted from MSLONEKER:

So all the GI14 are out. White/lavender. I checked wiring all the way to the back box. Pin GI14 on the GI connector is only putting out 1.5v. I checked the common for that wire (lavneder) and it conducts 6 volts when checked against white/green pin13. nothing looks burnt. where do i go from here. and can i just splice white/lavender onto white/green. its all LED lighting.

Have you checked fuse F27? And no, do not start splicing wires together. That will only cause more issues later on.

#5602 33 days ago

I have the service manual, but could not find any info on GI. i didnt even know this was protected by a fuse. I'm out of town for the week. But will look at and replace that fuse when i get back. thx

#5603 31 days ago

I expect this to be an easy answer. I have a replacement spinner, but wondered the best way to install it. I am used to spinners that are on posts that you can unscrew, etc, but with LOTR, the spinner is on the ring ramp. Do you just bend it gently to get the new one in?

#5604 31 days ago

that's what i did. Do the side that activates the switch first, make sure when u put it on that it in fact activates the switch. Then gently flex the other side into the hole.

#5605 31 days ago
Quoted from jedi42:

I expect this to be an easy answer. I have a replacement spinner, but wondered the best way to install it. I am used to spinners that are on posts that you can unscrew, etc, but with LOTR, the spinner is on the ring ramp. Do you just bend it gently to get the new one in?

Agreed, I did the same when I replaced the spinner on my first LOTR. Just gently, but firmly, bend to fit into place. Also, I dig your Strikes and Spares backglass icon! I just bought a really nice one and it should arrive any day now. That backglass cracks me up!

#5606 31 days ago

Ha, thanks! S&S was my first game I owned, and I love the backglass, a true work of art. I laugh all the time at the boyfriends getting in trouble for gawking at the girl. Enjoy!

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Agreed, I did the same when I replaced the spinner on my first LOTR. Just gently, but firmly, bend to fit into place. Also, I dig your Strikes and Spares backglass icon! I just bought a really nice one and it should arrive any day now. That backglass cracks me up!

#5607 30 days ago

Anyone use lube on their spinner? Find that the spinner sometimes rejects shots.

#5608 30 days ago

I just replaced my spinner, and what a difference it made. The old one was mashed a bit, and caused rejections sometimes. The new one spins forever and no rejections. Scores went up immediately.

I put a tiny tiny drop of sewing machine oil on them, and works great. Just need a small amount, I use a toothpick.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone use lube on their spinner? Find that the spinner sometimes rejects shots.

#5609 30 days ago

Does anyone else find that most of their right orbit shots miss during War of the Ents because the post doesn't raise quickly enough? I'm using medium coils and the shots are quite fast.

#5610 30 days ago
Quoted from insx:

Does anyone else find that most of their right orbit shots miss during War of the Ents because the post doesn't raise quickly enough? I'm using medium coils and the shots are quite fast.

About half of mine fly past the up-post event. I generally go straight into Orthanc because of it, even though the shot is worth more on the right orbit.

#5611 30 days ago
Quoted from insx:

Does anyone else find that most of their right orbit shots miss during War of the Ents because the post doesn't raise quickly enough? I'm using medium coils and the shots are quite fast.

I’ve never had that issue. I’m using normal coils though.
Have you tried increasing the pitch of the game?

#5612 30 days ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

About half of mine fly past the up-post event. I generally go straight into Orthanc because of it, even though the shot is worth more on the right orbit.

mine works ok but in general I try (orthanc- potd- left inlane - backhand left flipper to orthanc.) " rinse and repeat"

i have tried a little " triflo" chain lube Teflon based lubricant . just a tiny drop on the end of a needle, seems to help,

someone should invent a spinner with a nice little roller bearing...

#5613 30 days ago
Quoted from insx:

Does anyone else find that most of their right orbit shots miss during War of the Ents because the post doesn't raise quickly enough? I'm using medium coils and the shots are quite fast.

I found that the problem wasn't that the post didn't raise quickly enough, but that the ball somehow missed it on the way around.

I added one of the plastic post sleeves to the post that pops up to fix the issue. It was the same size sleeve from other areas of the game. And was surprisingly easy to do, just slid it down onto the post and it fit tight enough without causing an obstruction for the post going up and down.

#5614 30 days ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

I found that the problem wasn't that the post didn't raise quickly enough, but that the ball somehow missed it on the way around.
I added one of the plastic post sleeves to the post that pops up to fix the issue. It was the same size sleeve from other areas of the game. And was surprisingly easy to do, just slid it down onto the post and it fit tight enough without causing an obstruction for the post going up and down.

Same with my machine. It doesn't eliminate it altogether but does improve it significantly.

#5615 29 days ago

The diverter post is at the top edge of the orbit, so you can imagine that a slow rolling ball will pass under it and not divert, or a ball rattling around orbit will miss it.

#5616 29 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

More
Have you checked fuse F27

the fuse was fine, but the fuse holder was not making contact. thx.

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#5617 28 days ago
Quoted from MSLONEKER:

the fuse was fine, but the fuse holder was not making contact. thx.

Simple fixes are great!

#5618 28 days ago

I just joined the club. It appears like it will be an epic journey.

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#5619 28 days ago
Quoted from Rascal-911:

It appears like it will be an epic journey.

Welcome. I'm constantly amazed by the depth of this games rule set. If u haven't already down load the rules. But even with the rules there are so many different strategies to understand. Or u can do what most of my friends do,- just keep the ball in play.

#5620 27 days ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

I found that the problem wasn't that the post didn't raise quickly enough, but that the ball somehow missed it on the way around.
I added one of the plastic post sleeves to the post that pops up to fix the issue. It was the same size sleeve from other areas of the game. And was surprisingly easy to do, just slid it down onto the post and it fit tight enough without causing an obstruction for the post going up and down.

I found a plastic sleeve that I could drill out and fit to the post without stopping it going up/down and it changed things a lot. 5/5 shots missed, LOL. It seems to make it even easier for the ball to make its way around the post. I tried a post rubber but it was too fat.

#5621 27 days ago

Got to There and Back Again on Friday for only the second time! Love the unique music for that mode. Failed to complete it, but that’s what makes this epic pin one of the best ever. The code is simply great. Valinor is always ahead.

#5622 27 days ago
Quoted from insx:

I found a plastic sleeve that I could drill out and fit to the post without stopping it going up/down and it changed things a lot. 5/5 shots missed, LOL. It seems to make it even easier for the ball to make its way around the post. I tried a post rubber but it was too fat.

There are fatter and thinner post rubbers. I have a post rubber on mine and it stops the ball EVERY time.

#5623 27 days ago

installed a pinduino along wtih led strips on backboard trough under sword ramp and left rail , pinduino is very cool if you like to tinker with lighting and can solder with options for programming effects limited only by your imagination and programming skills( me i am a cut and paster of existing code!) .i liked keeping the strips down low on the sides rather than up high like pin stadiums to preserve the darker nature of LOTR lighting..

ignore the playing although i do suck, no fancy tripod for me i have my cell phone duct taped to a high backed living room chair and am straddling it while playing at about 3/4 the height i usually stand!, the squawking in the background is a ring neck parrot that hangs out with me in the man cave, knows a few words surprised that most of them are not curses!

#5624 27 days ago

Got around to sprucing up the shire . For you LOTR fanatics this is an really nice detailed replica of 5 hill lane in hobbiton by weta (the designers who did these worked on the sets for the movies) . as well once you get there a road sign is needed
pinball 040 (resized).jpg
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not totally sold on the floating island feel of it , tried this one in the area of the sneeze guard , it looks good from the side but from the playing position it did not look right .

pinball 001 (resized).jpg

i have some ideas to pull it more into the play field .
think silverball mania backglass meets hobbiton!!

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#5625 27 days ago
Quoted from judremy:

There are fatter and thinner post rubbers. I have a post rubber on mine and it stops the ball EVERY time.

Yeah, I'll have to find something. I'm sure something in grippy rubber would stop the ball better.

#5626 26 days ago

came across this on the mod board done by the fire ring creator which is awesome and really well done , these look to be at the same high level of excellence , WANT the eye of Sauron!!
I think PM him for pricing and ordering info.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/barad-dur-sauron-eye-and-palantir-interactive-orb-mods-lotr

#5627 26 days ago
Quoted from insx:

I found a plastic sleeve that I could drill out and fit to the post without stopping it going up/down and it changed things a lot. 5/5 shots missed, LOL. It seems to make it even easier for the ball to make its way around the post. I tried a post rubber but it was too fat.

I think I used the wrong word/description. It probably was a post rubber that fit so well and continues to work.

#5628 26 days ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stainless-steel-speakerpanels-acdc-tron-lotr-star-trek/page/3#post-5504553

re run 2020

stainless steel panels

a88568e4f8a62bb88192c89048ceb6f4303c760d (resized).jpg
#5629 25 days ago

Hi all, would appreciate some help/opinions on my LOTR issues:

#1 - NOW SOLVED!!! by new coil stop + sleeve: the left flipper buzzes when held. It also feels quite weak so with the glass off, you can press the flipper down when held. There is some resistance there but nothing like the right flipper which is very strong when held. Is this normal?

#2 - the auto-launch has been weak for a while, sometimes not making it all the way round and stopping at the lanes/Orthanc. I've replaced the coil and the mech looks fine. There are a lot of comments on Sterns auto launch so maybe I have to live with this, but am open to ideas...

Cheers all!

#5630 25 days ago

Hi,

What's the best option to fix the palantir switch from going back and throwing the ball in the air, above flippers ?
I've read about an alternative fixation, from Capcom but was not able to find that, in Europe at least.

#5631 25 days ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Hi,
What's the best option to fix the palantir switch from going back and throwing the ball in the air, above flippers ?
I've read about an alternative fixation, from Capcom but was not able to find that, in Europe at least.

I used an adhesive felt pad behind it. The material was a little hard and it caused a few misses at first but it seems to have softened up after a few dozen games.

#5632 25 days ago
Quoted from insx:

I used an adhesive felt pad behind it. The material was a little hard and it caused a few misses at first but it seems to have softened up after a few dozen games.

I think swinks makes some brackets that adjust your switch angle and helps eliminate most air balls

#5633 25 days ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Hi,
What's the best option to fix the palantir switch from going back and throwing the ball in the air, above flippers ?
I've read about an alternative fixation, from Capcom but was not able to find that, in Europe at least.

Check if your metal bracket behind it is bent. Mine was bent back from all the hits already going into the wood causing a lot of airballs.
Just replace the metal bracket and a new foam pad and since then had 0 air balls off the target.

#5634 25 days ago

Yes, it's bent.
Any reference for a replacement?

#5635 25 days ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Yes, it's bent.
Any reference for a replacement?

Part number is 535-6452-00
There is also a complete Kit but changing the part should to the trick.

#5636 25 days ago

Thank you

#5637 24 days ago

I have read there is supposed to be a piece of foam in the tower shot to prevent bounce outs. Is there some specific part, or do people just add something soft there? Getting annoyed when going for a gift and it bounces out after a perfect shot.

#5638 24 days ago

So, I’ve been having some issues with the left flipper on my game and determined that it has something to do with the switch itself. I looked up the part# (180-5160-00) in the manual. On Marcos site it says to use SW-10A-48 as a replacement so I ordered a couple. I went to replace them and see that the original switches on my game each have a capacitor on them and the new ones do not. Am I okay to use the new switches without the capacitors?
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#5639 24 days ago
Quoted from MrSmiley:

Part number is 535-6452-00
There is also a complete Kit but changing the part should to the trick.

seems not the bracket behind the target, this ref points me to a VUK bracket ?

#5640 24 days ago
Quoted from Braindance:

I have read there is supposed to be a piece of foam in the tower shot to prevent bounce outs. Is there some specific part, or do people just add something soft there? Getting annoyed when going for a gift and it bounces out after a perfect shot.

I'm about to experiment with this, I have some clear rubber "feet" or some felt pads to try.

#5641 24 days ago
Quoted from pipes:

So, I’ve been having some issues with the left flipper on my game and determined that it has something to do with the switch itself. I looked up the part# (180-5160-00) in the manual. On Marcos site it says to use SW-10A-48 as a replacement so I ordered a couple. I went to replace them and see that the original switches on my game each have a capacitor on them and the new ones do not. Am I okay to use the new switches without the capacitors?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those switches are incorrect and won't work. You need the "Paliney" or "Palinery" style switches. Marco really needs to update that description.

This is the correct part
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=paliney

http://pbresource.com/buttswit.html
Single Palinery Contact Flipper Button

Sega/Stern Flipper Button Switch

500-6889-01

Stern Replacement for
500-6889-00
180-5160-00

DE-500-688901 $20.01

#5642 24 days ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

seems not the bracket behind the target, this ref points me to a VUK bracket ?

Its that part you need to replace:
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-standup-target-back-plate.html

535-6452-00 (resized).jpg
#5643 24 days ago

Thanks a lot

#5644 24 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Those switches are incorrect and won't work. You need the "Paliney" or "Palinery" style switches. Marco really needs to update that description.
This is the correct part
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=paliney
http://pbresource.com/buttswit.html
Single Palinery Contact Flipper Button
Sega/Stern Flipper Button Switch
500-6889-01
Stern Replacement for
500-6889-00
180-5160-00
DE-500-688901 $20.01

Well that sucks. Just ordered the correct switches, thank you for the info - much appreciated!

#5645 24 days ago
Quoted from pipes:

Well that sucks. Just ordered the correct switches, thank you for the info - much appreciated!

I did the same thing. Thankfully, I can use them in other games. The switches you ordered are high voltage switches that are typically used in classic Ballys, Sterns, and other in that era, probably up through the mid 80s, so if you have any of those games, they might work.

#5646 24 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I did the same thing. Thankfully, I can use them in other games. The switches you ordered are high voltage switches that are typically used in classic Ballys, Sterns, and other in that era, probably up through the mid 80s, so if you have any of those games, they might work.

Unfortunately I don't and never plan to so they're not going to be of any use to me. Ugh. Given how expensive this hobby is already, it really sucks to toss money out the window like that. I didn't buy them from Marco but I did use their site as reference to make sure I was buying the right part from my local supplier - wow that worked out really well.

#5647 23 days ago
Quoted from pipes:

Unfortunately I don't and never plan to so they're not going to be of any use to me. Ugh. Given how expensive this hobby is already, it really sucks to toss money out the window like that. I didn't buy them from Marco but I did use their site as reference to make sure I was buying the right part from my local supplier - wow that worked out really well.

That's too bad. I think you're missing out on a whole different world of pinball with early SS games Maybe there's another local pinhead that can use them. Of course, I have a ton of "extra" parts that I've bought "just in case."

Marco is usually good with their cross-referencing. I use that site the same way. I'm not sure if it is just this particular switch with this particular game?

#5648 23 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

That's too bad. I think you're missing out on a whole different world of pinball with early SS games

As a general rule I need at the very least, a DMD and one ramp for a game to live with me in my house.

#5649 23 days ago

My ring ramp has was looks like blobs of solder on the two tips, is that normal?

#5650 23 days ago
Quoted from insx:

My ring ramp has was looks like blobs of solder on the two tips, is that normal?

Yes - they get beaten up pretty bad but you can (and should) use a metal file to get them smooth again. If not, they'll throw shots off line and make the ring shot harder to hit

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