All great advice - appreciate everyone's guidance. Have a US supplier coming near term and a large lot from China coming for backups. I felt like Pin_Guy's avatar picture when I bent the processor prongs...

You may or may not know this, but this is the same processor that Bally/Williams used in all DMD pins from 1990-1999.
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it was also produced by multiple manufacturers:

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Last game before Santa arrives, 23 secs to destroy the ring is very satisfying.
Game set to hold a ball on the ring

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Appreciate everyone's help re the replacement microprocessor. Got LOTR back online - Frodo lives!

Great 2 ball DTR time!

Yes, very well done!

It was a really fun game ! All around !

I recently shuffled my games around and moved my LOTR to a new physical location, and since doing so I am having trouble getting balls coming out of the right orbit to miss the right slingshot. I’ve leveled it left-right and have tried various playfield inclinations from 6.5 to 7.0 (using a digital inclinometer), but it doesn’t seem to make a big difference. Almost all balls either hit the top corner of the slingshot or the middle, depending on speed. I don’t remember this happening before the move, but maybe I’m just noticing it and it always did this.

I’m curious what others experience with the right orbit and what I should expect on a properly setup machine. Thanks!

Normally it should go somewhere on the right flipper. A faster shot would hit closer to the tip of the flipper than a slower one.

I would double check the left/right level at multiple areas on the playfield. The level may change a bit as the legs get settled also.

You may need to move the ball guide out a little where it ends above the 'spot ring' target, but it looks like a lot of work to get to that.

Looking for some help getting everything I need to update my game. Its running code 4.1.

How many roms do i need and do i need the PAL chip? And who is selling them as a kit?

Matt’s Basemebt arcade. You need the MPU rom for 10.0 and the display ROM for 10.0. Matt’s sells a package of them for $20 or so I think. I just did this exact upgrade and it worked great.

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/lord-of-the-rings-lotr-pinball-stern-rom-upgrade-chip-set/

Looking to add lights behind the backglass. I ordered comet matrix lighting, but my question is how to add a panel behind the glass to mount the lights to. Any thoughts?

I've never been super happy with the factory paint-job on the Balrog. On my LOTR, the Balrog's head is so dark that you can't make out any of the features. I asked an artist buddy of mine (Mark Jarman) to apply some artistic inspiration to the Balrog. Mark repainted him and I like how I can now make out the facial features and the flames on his back now blend more naturally into the body. He also lights up really cool! What do you all think?
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Pretty sharp!

What coil are you running? APB medium?

Curious to know if most of you getting these amazing DTR times are also using medium coils?

My ramp shots seems weak, even early in a game.

WELL DONE!, that is some smooth shooting.

on the other end of the spectrum outside of the usual flailing and fails I have had some DTR times of over 5 minutes!!

I love how the music and callouts create a sense of urgency but if I am not on pace for a record time ( 33.7 seconds for me) I have learned to just relax and take my time with it. ( APB coils)

So after reading quite a few posts on this thread, I realized my 2003 LOTR was missing a lot of menu options people are talking about here. Turns out, it's on really old code, 5.00 in fact. Obviously this is in dire need of an upgrade but I wanted to check with people here first before I just start buying stuff. Eventually I'd like to get a shaker, but probably not right this moment. I know I need to go to 10.02 for that, but that there are also some other things I need to upgrade to get shaker functionality. If I wanted to upgrade to the newest code but still have the ability to add a shaker later without having to rebuy anything, what do I need now?

I took some pictures of what I have now and attached them. It seems like to run 10.02, I'll need the PAL Chip, 10.02 EPROM and the 10 Display ROM. I'm not too sure about the sound part though. As I type this out, I'm realizing it probably doesn't make sense to make two separate purchases and I might as well get the whole LOTR to LE Conversion Set from Matt's Basement Arcade. If I do that, I'm still fine to run without a shaker, correct? I just want to make sure I can add that later instead of right now.

Thanks!

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I’d get those batteries off the board while you’re at it.

Do it! Easy operation and peace of mind. Pinitech has the goods.

Agreed, swapping to NVRAM at the time of the ROM upgrade is perfect, as you loose all your scores and settings anyway. I do recommend doing one first, testing the install, and then the other. Doing both at the same time and then powering on is inviting a Troubleshooting issue.

This is going to sound like a dumb question but what do those batteries actually do? When I bought the machine, the holder was empty so I thought it would be a good idea to put some batteries in it. I had assumed it was for storing high scores and settings but it stored them fine without the batteries in it in the first place. I haven't taken them out since so I don't know if it will wipe it.

Your game likely already has nvram installed. Take your batteries out and leave them out.

Yep, sounds like NVRAM is already in there.

Many thanks, no matter how long it takes, it is always very satisfying to destroy the ring.
Did it again for the last time of 2019 but this time while I was streaming it , check it out https://clips.twitch.tv/FilthyLaconicYakHassanChop

I agree, and finishing Fellowship multiball is also a thrill.

My sword release lock is still misbehaving occasionally on multiballs, and I get a malfunction mesage in the DMD. This is after I replaced coil and balls. Not aure what else to try.

MADE IT TO VALINOR!

after a LOT of games and getting close finally made it ! had some good luck in getting an EB as mystery award and was nailing the barad dur shot and hitting palinitir and collecting mysteries . got the eb at 47 barud dur for the first time ever , made good progress in the multiballs the first time around and ended the mb's with FOTR on round 3 . I had just watched the papa tutorial on valinor and got smart alog the way and timed out TABA and the ring frenzies , i did mess around a lot with ring multiball and hit a bunch of ring shots and barad dur shots with one ball while the other two were in the cradle. i was in the zone!

after reading of someone else's misfortune in this thread i remembered to collect the 7th elf gift before starting DTR on ball 3 with one EB left but was pretty sure this was the do or die moment as i was not confident i would be able to qualify all the mbs again to get back to DTR..Hit all the shots and had one ball locked in the ring and after 4-5 nerve wracking clanky ramp shots hit THE ONE!!! , wasn't sure i was at valinor as the machine did its usual crazy DTR finish but then the music changes ....VALINOR

most of the valinor instruction screens were a blur and did a fair amount of flailing during it but a very cool mode with a different vibe than the rest of the game ended up with a 90 mil score for it and a 460 mil GC score. Having a celebratory java stout ,, i am done with pinball for the evening....

Wow, that's really great.
Well done!

Hi guys, looking for some advice, I recently swapped out the rubbers on the slingshots but on trying to re-tighten the right slingshot upper post I'm finding the T-nut not biting into the wood. Now I'm getting a tiny amount of up and down movement and if I try to tighten the bolt it just spins the T-nut. Any advice on how to get this fixed again without a ton of work removing parts?

Thanks!

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Remove the screw.
Break some toothpicks in the wood to give some material to bite in, you can wood glie if you want but not mandatory.
Rebuild.
Done.

Thanks, I was able to get the T-nut off and the teeth were completely flattened. The wood still looks in pretty good shape so perhaps it had never really bit in. So now that I've got it out and looking to just replace the T-nut and the bolt. the local hardware store doesn't have stuff like this so I want to make sure I order the right parts. I think I need the following:

One of these T-nuts - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4406-01118-00

Can I just tap this in with a hammer gently?

The bolt head got a bit mangled trying to get it out so rather chancing it I'd rather replace it. I think it's a 6-32 2-3/4" machine screw correct? I can't seem to figure out a part number from the manual. Anyone know a part number or can confirm? (Again the hardware store didn't have anything to match).

This looks it?- https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5906-00

Appreciate it!

It was awesome , thanks! I will let you know if I get back there in another year or two...

I hammer in T nuts with some good force till it is seated. I know Lowe's and Home Depot carry T nuts in those sections with the drawers of hardware. They would also have the machine screws. Turn the nut to a fresh area of the playfield and pound it in.

Any advice to avoid additional damage?
New balls, playfield cleaned,.. Mylar ?

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I saw some requests for Army of dead Mountingkits

Army of Dead / Pat of the Dead complete Mountingkit € 30.-

*Mounting plate (thicker/ stronger than the one of pinbits) And also the led holes are updated for this ultra bright 5 mm leds.
*Screws, Nuts, Washers.
*Plastic posts incl. rubbers
*Ultra bright 5mm green Led's incl.diode
*2 st. crocodile clips.

Complete mounting kit, army of dead € 30.- + € 5.- Standard Shipping cost in Europe ( I have to check the prices for outside Europe)

You can pay with paypal: [email protected]

If you pay whit PayPal please sent the money friendly (as an friend).
Otherwise i have to pay Paypal fee.

And i need of you're post address again.

If you need more information, please sent me a mail: [email protected]

Thanks!!

Erik

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Finally installed some new mirror blades today as the old ones were crap and scratched. Also the previous owner glued them to the sides. Hell of a job to get them off.
Now very happy with the look of my LotR, all incandescent except the ring and balrog flashers.
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Wow, nice looking! I always have an internal argument of mirror blades vs art blades and wind up buying neither.

Thanks! I have the feeling art blades make the pin look much more narrow like a shoe box. That's why i prefer mirror blades.

Is that a three figure or four figure mounting kit?

getting a little bit of crackling on the audio on my machine - has anyone else had this and do you know how it was fixed?

Usually crackling in speakers is a bad connection or damaged wire. If check the connections and make sure the wire isn’t jammed under the speaker panel or somewhere else that is causing the wire to be pinched or crushed

Quick question about voltage... Some of my outlets measure around 121-122V, and others closer to 120V.

Could this 1-2V difference affect the power of the flippers?

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No. US & Canada voltage mains are ~120VAC +/-6%. The AC voltage is converted to lower DC voltages inside cabinet. Measuring the voltage supply at flippers & comparing to spec would be a better indicator.

-Adam

How would I test power at the flippers?

Multimeter on coil lugs?

You can read the DC voltage between a coil lug and cabinet ground. (with the coin door interlock pulled)

Noob question... But while game is on or off?

Also, what reading should I get?

And cabinet ground is any ground in the game?

Just saw interlock pulled... So that would mean power on??

Yes. Power on.

Sorry to get techy in this thread but I’m at a loss here... got a super nice LOTR original run with powder coated rails, legs, lock bar, color dmd, speaker lights, and I’m having issues with the pricing adjustments. All DIP switches are off (down position) which should be USA pricing. In the pricing menu I’m getting 9 USA options, number 9 being 1.00$/1 play. I’m seeing no custom option here (although I am seeing the pricing options for all other countries in the menu... might be normal?) here’s what’s really weird... set to 1$/1 play, the left coin slot takes 5 coins to give one play and the right slot gives you three plays for .25!?! Set to .50 a play (USA 4) works normally. At this point I’m suspecting cold solder or internal short in the DIP switch, but I’m totally baffled otherwise. I have new game ROM being burned As it was running 7.1 which brings Me to my next question: what is the latest code I can run without burning or buying additional ROM’s? What features besides the shaker motor are even different? I won’t be adding a shaker motor to this game... with the color dmd will the ROM version affect the graphics? Final question: where are the factory setting (Standard adjustments Like pricing, etc) stored? Game ROM or another chip? THANK YOU for reading a desperate man’s rambling dissertation!

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