(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

5 years ago



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There are 5602 posts in this topic. You are on page 110 of 113.
#5451 65 days ago

All great advice - appreciate everyone's guidance. Have a US supplier coming near term and a large lot from China coming for backups. I felt like Pin_Guy's avatar picture when I bent the processor prongs...

#5452 64 days ago

You may or may not know this, but this is the same processor that Bally/Williams used in all DMD pins from 1990-1999.
pasted_image (resized).png

it was also produced by multiple manufacturers:

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#5453 62 days ago

Last game before Santa arrives, 23 secs to destroy the ring is very satisfying.
Game set to hold a ball on the ring

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#5454 62 days ago

Appreciate everyone's help re the replacement microprocessor. Got LOTR back online - Frodo lives!

#5455 62 days ago
Quoted from Mnluz:

23 secs to destroy the ring is very satisfying.
Game set to hold a ball on the ring

Great 2 ball DTR time!

#5456 62 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Great 2 ball DTR time!

Yes, very well done!

#5457 62 days ago
Quoted from pipes:

Yes, very well done!

It was a really fun game ! All around !

#5458 61 days ago

I recently shuffled my games around and moved my LOTR to a new physical location, and since doing so I am having trouble getting balls coming out of the right orbit to miss the right slingshot. I’ve leveled it left-right and have tried various playfield inclinations from 6.5 to 7.0 (using a digital inclinometer), but it doesn’t seem to make a big difference. Almost all balls either hit the top corner of the slingshot or the middle, depending on speed. I don’t remember this happening before the move, but maybe I’m just noticing it and it always did this.

I’m curious what others experience with the right orbit and what I should expect on a properly setup machine. Thanks!

#5459 61 days ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

I’m curious what others experience with the right orbit and what I should expect on a properly setup machine.

Normally it should go somewhere on the right flipper. A faster shot would hit closer to the tip of the flipper than a slower one.

I would double check the left/right level at multiple areas on the playfield. The level may change a bit as the legs get settled also.

You may need to move the ball guide out a little where it ends above the 'spot ring' target, but it looks like a lot of work to get to that.

#5460 58 days ago

Looking for some help getting everything I need to update my game. Its running code 4.1.

How many roms do i need and do i need the PAL chip? And who is selling them as a kit?

#5461 58 days ago

Matt’s Basemebt arcade. You need the MPU rom for 10.0 and the display ROM for 10.0. Matt’s sells a package of them for $20 or so I think. I just did this exact upgrade and it worked great.

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/lord-of-the-rings-lotr-pinball-stern-rom-upgrade-chip-set/

#5462 56 days ago

Looking to add lights behind the backglass. I ordered comet matrix lighting, but my question is how to add a panel behind the glass to mount the lights to. Any thoughts?

#5463 54 days ago

I've never been super happy with the factory paint-job on the Balrog. On my LOTR, the Balrog's head is so dark that you can't make out any of the features. I asked an artist buddy of mine (Mark Jarman) to apply some artistic inspiration to the Balrog. Mark repainted him and I like how I can now make out the facial features and the flames on his back now blend more naturally into the body. He also lights up really cool! What do you all think?
IMG_4731.JPGIMG_4732.JPGIMG_4733.JPGIMG_4736.JPG

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#5464 54 days ago

Pretty sharp!

#5465 54 days ago
Quoted from RGAires:

You can check my last video of gameplay on LORD, should i level it diferent, what can i improve?

Thanks

What coil are you running? APB medium?

Curious to know if most of you getting these amazing DTR times are also using medium coils?

My ramp shots seems weak, even early in a game.

#5466 54 days ago
Quoted from Mnluz:

Last game before Santa arrives, 23 secs to destroy the ring is very satisfying.
Game set to hold a ball on the ring[quoted image]

WELL DONE!, that is some smooth shooting.

on the other end of the spectrum outside of the usual flailing and fails I have had some DTR times of over 5 minutes!!

I love how the music and callouts create a sense of urgency but if I am not on pace for a record time ( 33.7 seconds for me) I have learned to just relax and take my time with it. ( APB coils)

#5467 52 days ago

So after reading quite a few posts on this thread, I realized my 2003 LOTR was missing a lot of menu options people are talking about here. Turns out, it's on really old code, 5.00 in fact. Obviously this is in dire need of an upgrade but I wanted to check with people here first before I just start buying stuff. Eventually I'd like to get a shaker, but probably not right this moment. I know I need to go to 10.02 for that, but that there are also some other things I need to upgrade to get shaker functionality. If I wanted to upgrade to the newest code but still have the ability to add a shaker later without having to rebuy anything, what do I need now?

I took some pictures of what I have now and attached them. It seems like to run 10.02, I'll need the PAL Chip, 10.02 EPROM and the 10 Display ROM. I'm not too sure about the sound part though. As I type this out, I'm realizing it probably doesn't make sense to make two separate purchases and I might as well get the whole LOTR to LE Conversion Set from Matt's Basement Arcade. If I do that, I'm still fine to run without a shaker, correct? I just want to make sure I can add that later instead of right now.

Thanks!

IMG_20200104_104939 (resized).jpgIMG_20200104_105047 (resized).jpgIMG_20200104_105011 (resized).jpg
#5468 52 days ago

I’d get those batteries off the board while you’re at it.

#5469 52 days ago

Do it! Easy operation and peace of mind. Pinitech has the goods.

#5470 52 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I’d get those batteries off the board while you’re at it.

Agreed, swapping to NVRAM at the time of the ROM upgrade is perfect, as you loose all your scores and settings anyway. I do recommend doing one first, testing the install, and then the other. Doing both at the same time and then powering on is inviting a Troubleshooting issue.

#5471 52 days ago

This is going to sound like a dumb question but what do those batteries actually do? When I bought the machine, the holder was empty so I thought it would be a good idea to put some batteries in it. I had assumed it was for storing high scores and settings but it stored them fine without the batteries in it in the first place. I haven't taken them out since so I don't know if it will wipe it.

#5472 52 days ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

This is going to sound like a dumb question but what do those batteries actually do? When I bought the machine, the holder was empty so I thought it would be a good idea to put some batteries in it. I had assumed it was for storing high scores and settings but it stored them fine without the batteries in it in the first place. I haven't taken them out since so I don't know if it will wipe it.

Your game likely already has nvram installed. Take your batteries out and leave them out.

#5473 52 days ago
Quoted from Metroshica:

This is going to sound like a dumb question but what do those batteries actually do? When I bought the machine, the holder was empty so I thought it would be a good idea to put some batteries in it. I had assumed it was for storing high scores and settings but it stored them fine without the batteries in it in the first place. I haven't taken them out since so I don't know if it will wipe it.

Quoted from Lermods:

Your game likely already has nvram installed. Take your batteries out and leave them out.

Yep, sounds like NVRAM is already in there.

#5474 50 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

WELL DONE!, that is some smooth shooting.
on the other end of the spectrum outside of the usual flailing and fails I have had some DTR times of over 5 minutes!!
I love how the music and callouts create a sense of urgency but if I am not on pace for a record time ( 33.7 seconds for me) I have learned to just relax and take my time with it. ( APB coils)

Many thanks, no matter how long it takes, it is always very satisfying to destroy the ring.
Did it again for the last time of 2019 but this time while I was streaming it , check it out https://clips.twitch.tv/FilthyLaconicYakHassanChop

#5475 48 days ago
Quoted from Mnluz:

Many thanks, no matter how long it takes, it is always very satisfying to destroy the ring.
Did it again for the last time of 2019 but this time while I was streaming it , check it out https://clips.twitch.tv/FilthyLaconicYakHassanChop

I agree, and finishing Fellowship multiball is also a thrill.

#5476 48 days ago

My sword release lock is still misbehaving occasionally on multiballs, and I get a malfunction mesage in the DMD. This is after I replaced coil and balls. Not aure what else to try.

29
#5477 48 days ago

MADE IT TO VALINOR!

after a LOT of games and getting close finally made it ! had some good luck in getting an EB as mystery award and was nailing the barad dur shot and hitting palinitir and collecting mysteries . got the eb at 47 barud dur for the first time ever , made good progress in the multiballs the first time around and ended the mb's with FOTR on round 3 . I had just watched the papa tutorial on valinor and got smart alog the way and timed out TABA and the ring frenzies , i did mess around a lot with ring multiball and hit a bunch of ring shots and barad dur shots with one ball while the other two were in the cradle. i was in the zone!

after reading of someone else's misfortune in this thread i remembered to collect the 7th elf gift before starting DTR on ball 3 with one EB left but was pretty sure this was the do or die moment as i was not confident i would be able to qualify all the mbs again to get back to DTR..Hit all the shots and had one ball locked in the ring and after 4-5 nerve wracking clanky ramp shots hit THE ONE!!! , wasn't sure i was at valinor as the machine did its usual crazy DTR finish but then the music changes ....VALINOR

most of the valinor instruction screens were a blur and did a fair amount of flailing during it but a very cool mode with a different vibe than the rest of the game ended up with a 90 mil score for it and a 460 mil GC score. Having a celebratory java stout ,, i am done with pinball for the evening....

#5478 48 days ago

Wow, that's really great.
Well done!

#5479 48 days ago

Hi guys, looking for some advice, I recently swapped out the rubbers on the slingshots but on trying to re-tighten the right slingshot upper post I'm finding the T-nut not biting into the wood. Now I'm getting a tiny amount of up and down movement and if I try to tighten the bolt it just spins the T-nut. Any advice on how to get this fixed again without a ton of work removing parts?

Thanks!

IMG_20200108_114300 (resized).jpg
#5480 48 days ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Hi guys, looking for some advice, I recently swapped out the rubbers on the slingshots but on trying to re-tighten the right slingshot upper post I'm finding the T-nut not biting into the wood. Now I'm getting a tiny amount of up and down movement and if I try to tighten the bolt it just spins the T-nut. Any advice on how to get this fixed again without a ton of work removing parts?
Thanks![quoted image]

Remove the screw.
Break some toothpicks in the wood to give some material to bite in, you can wood glie if you want but not mandatory.
Rebuild.
Done.

#5481 48 days ago

Thanks, I was able to get the T-nut off and the teeth were completely flattened. The wood still looks in pretty good shape so perhaps it had never really bit in. So now that I've got it out and looking to just replace the T-nut and the bolt. the local hardware store doesn't have stuff like this so I want to make sure I order the right parts. I think I need the following:

One of these T-nuts - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4406-01118-00

Can I just tap this in with a hammer gently?

The bolt head got a bit mangled trying to get it out so rather chancing it I'd rather replace it. I think it's a 6-32 2-3/4" machine screw correct? I can't seem to figure out a part number from the manual. Anyone know a part number or can confirm? (Again the hardware store didn't have anything to match).

This looks it?- https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5906-00

Appreciate it!

#5482 47 days ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Wow, that's really great.
Well done!

It was awesome , thanks! I will let you know if I get back there in another year or two...

#5483 47 days ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Thanks, I was able to get the T-nut off and the teeth were completely flattened. The wood still looks in pretty good shape so perhaps it had never really bit in. So now that I've got it out and looking to just replace the T-nut and the bolt. the local hardware store doesn't have stuff like this so I want to make sure I order the right parts. I think I need the following:
One of these T-nuts - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4406-01118-00
Can I just tap this in with a hammer gently?
The bolt head got a bit mangled trying to get it out so rather chancing it I'd rather replace it. I think it's a 6-32 2-3/4" machine screw correct? I can't seem to figure out a part number from the manual. Anyone know a part number or can confirm? (Again the hardware store didn't have anything to match).
This looks it?- https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5906-00
Appreciate it!

I hammer in T nuts with some good force till it is seated. I know Lowe's and Home Depot carry T nuts in those sections with the drawers of hardware. They would also have the machine screws. Turn the nut to a fresh area of the playfield and pound it in.

#5484 47 days ago

Any advice to avoid additional damage?
New balls, playfield cleaned,.. Mylar ?

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#5485 46 days ago

I saw some requests for Army of dead Mountingkits

Army of Dead / Pat of the Dead complete Mountingkit € 30.-

*Mounting plate (thicker/ stronger than the one of pinbits) And also the led holes are updated for this ultra bright 5 mm leds.
*Screws, Nuts, Washers.
*Plastic posts incl. rubbers
*Ultra bright 5mm green Led's incl.diode
*2 st. crocodile clips.

Complete mounting kit, army of dead € 30.- + € 5.- Standard Shipping cost in Europe ( I have to check the prices for outside Europe)

You can pay with paypal: em.boes@hotmail.nl

If you pay whit PayPal please sent the money friendly (as an friend).
Otherwise i have to pay Paypal fee.

And i need of you're post address again.

If you need more information, please sent me a mail: em.boes@hotmail.nl

Thanks!!

Erik

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#5486 45 days ago

Finally installed some new mirror blades today as the old ones were crap and scratched. Also the previous owner glued them to the sides. Hell of a job to get them off.
Now very happy with the look of my LotR, all incandescent except the ring and balrog flashers.
IMG_20200111_172017 (resized).jpgIMG_20200111_172026 (resized).jpgIMG_20200111_172031 (resized).jpg

#5487 45 days ago

Wow, nice looking! I always have an internal argument of mirror blades vs art blades and wind up buying neither.

#5488 45 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Wow, nice looking! I always have an internal argument of mirror blades vs art blades and wind up buying neither.

Thanks! I have the feeling art blades make the pin look much more narrow like a shoe box. That's why i prefer mirror blades.

#5489 45 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Plaza:

I saw some requests for Army of dead Mountingkits
Army of Dead / Pat of the Dead complete Mountingkit € 30.-
*Mounting plate (thicker/ stronger than the one of pinbits) And also the led holes are updated for this ultra bright 5 mm leds.
*Screws, Nuts, Washers.
*Plastic posts incl. rubbers
*Ultra bright 5mm green Led's incl.diode
*2 st. crocodile clips.
Complete mounting kit, army of dead € 30.- + € 5.- Standard Shipping cost in Europe ( I have to check the prices for outside Europe)
You can pay with paypal: em.boes@hotmail.nl
If you pay whit PayPal please sent the money friendly (as an friend).
Otherwise i have to pay Paypal fee.
And i need of you're post address again.
If you need more information, please sent me a mail: em.boes@hotmail.nl
Thanks!!
Erik[quoted image][quoted image]

Is that a three figure or four figure mounting kit?

#5490 40 days ago

getting a little bit of crackling on the audio on my machine - has anyone else had this and do you know how it was fixed?

#5491 40 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

getting a little bit of crackling on the audio on my machine - has anyone else had this and do you know how it was fixed?

Usually crackling in speakers is a bad connection or damaged wire. If check the connections and make sure the wire isn’t jammed under the speaker panel or somewhere else that is causing the wire to be pinched or crushed

#5492 37 days ago

Quick question about voltage... Some of my outlets measure around 121-122V, and others closer to 120V.

Could this 1-2V difference affect the power of the flippers?

IMG_20200118_182356 (resized).jpgIMG_20200118_181934 (resized).jpg
#5493 37 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Quick question about voltage... Some of my outlets measure around 121-122V, and others closer to 120V.

Could this 1-2V difference affect the power of the flippers?

No. US & Canada voltage mains are ~120VAC +/-6%. The AC voltage is converted to lower DC voltages inside cabinet. Measuring the voltage supply at flippers & comparing to spec would be a better indicator.

-Adam

#5494 37 days ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

No. US & Canada voltage mains are ~120VAC +/-6%. The AC voltage is converted to lower DC voltages inside cabinet. Measuring the voltage supply at flippers & comparing to spec would be a better indicator.
-Adam

How would I test power at the flippers?

Multimeter on coil lugs?

#5495 37 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

How would I test power at the flippers?

You can read the DC voltage between a coil lug and cabinet ground. (with the coin door interlock pulled)

#5496 37 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

You can read the DC voltage between a coil lug and cabinet ground. (with the coin door interlock pulled)

Noob question... But while game is on or off?

Also, what reading should I get?

And cabinet ground is any ground in the game?

#5497 37 days ago

Just saw interlock pulled... So that would mean power on??

#5498 37 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Just saw interlock pulled... So that would mean power on??

Yes. Power on.

#5499 37 days ago

Sorry to get techy in this thread but I’m at a loss here... got a super nice LOTR original run with powder coated rails, legs, lock bar, color dmd, speaker lights, and I’m having issues with the pricing adjustments. All DIP switches are off (down position) which should be USA pricing. In the pricing menu I’m getting 9 USA options, number 9 being 1.00$/1 play. I’m seeing no custom option here (although I am seeing the pricing options for all other countries in the menu... might be normal?) here’s what’s really weird... set to 1$/1 play, the left coin slot takes 5 coins to give one play and the right slot gives you three plays for .25!?! Set to .50 a play (USA 4) works normally. At this point I’m suspecting cold solder or internal short in the DIP switch, but I’m totally baffled otherwise. I have new game ROM being burned As it was running 7.1 which brings Me to my next question: what is the latest code I can run without burning or buying additional ROM’s? What features besides the shaker motor are even different? I won’t be adding a shaker motor to this game... with the color dmd will the ROM version affect the graphics? Final question: where are the factory setting (Standard adjustments Like pricing, etc) stored? Game ROM or another chip? THANK YOU for reading a desperate man’s rambling dissertation!

783701B7-C241-4BF3-8E0B-3114214E7A33 (resized).jpeg
#5500 34 days ago

Do people just install a post here or something to get rid of this ball trap?

20200121_142447 (resized).jpg

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