Get NVRAM. Its plug n' play for Whitestar. You won't have to worry about batteries again.

Ideally, solder together and use heatshrink tubing. If you don't like soldering, use a crimp connector or even choc-block.

Not for Data East sys3, or for Sega/early Stern Whitestar boardsets. The RAM is in a socket already. Wish all of the games were like that (I'm looking at YOU Bally/Williams).

NVRAM is easy to install and inexpensive. Follow the instructions exactly.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1030-pinitech/00315-6264-nvram-battery-eliminator-for-high-score-save

If you have any questions, PM me and I can walk you through it.

RussM

Been meaning to do this since picking up my LoTR a year ago...thanks for the link, got me motivated to place an order finally!

I like the way you think.

Outstanding DTR time. Well done.

As to that high score, I asked this once before, and got no answer. I want to try again. Is the score limit capped on older software revisions of this game. I was told by the original owner of my game (I'm the second owner), that 250 million was as high as it would score.

Is that true? I'm running version 9 on my game.

Nope, just pull the old one out, and pop the NVRAM in.

I have 10.02 ROM because I have a shaker on my game. I have never heard of a score limit. 335,000,000 to get on the bottom of the board on my machine.
I have had a faster DTR going,on the last shot it went up the ramp and came back down SDTM. It can be done in under 20 sec.

Any ideas about a flasher that stays on all the time. Its the bottom right flasher above the picture of the she elf. #14 i believe. I just took the bulb out because it was beginning to damage the yellow topper thing.

That would likely be a shorted transistor. Check page 6 & 7 of the manual for the coils table and location to find which transistor to test. There are many guides out there for how to test it and replace it if needed.

I had the same issue. I think it was a flakey Balrog switch. That explains why it only occurs at the start of the game - that is when Balrog moves to the side.

That makes sense because it turns off with the opening of the coin door. Do u think it will hurt anything if i keep playing it until i get time to track it down.

Take the bulb out until you fix the problem to avoid melting plastics from the heat. It should be ok to play without the bulb.

Ok so this is what the guide said. Flash Helms Deep Right. Q14. Can anyone tell me where to find the High Current Coils group 2. Is it one coil im looking for. Im really kind of clueless in trying to read this chart.

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Stern commonly powered Flasher bulbs in the Coil section of a driver board due to the higher current capacity of that section of the board compared to the normal bulb section. So you really aren't looking for a coil.

All "High Current Coils Group 2" is a grouping for the connectors to the driver board, in this case J9. On page 128 of the manual you'll see transistor Q14, this particular transistor failing is extremely common on LOTR. As others have said, remove the flasher bulb for now to prevent the plastic & dome from melting, mine was melted when I purchased my pin. The dome is easy to find and replace, the plastic is very hard to find.

You are going to have to get that board fixed, if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself it's an easy repair for any reputable PDB repair shop.

Another reason for your high scores being cleared it a setting labeled "reset hstd". Usually set to 600 plays or something.

But you should still get the NVRAM to prevent battery related disasters, just change the reset hstd setting to never after you install it if you want your scores to stay. I'm a big fan of Pinitech's nvram and products.

Does anyone have this path of the dead figure, or know where I can get one?

Pic below for reference:

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All figures are from the Play Along sets, this one Army of the Dead. Try looking on Ebay or Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Armies-Middle-Soldiers-Scenes-Figures/dp/B000NEAMNS

Hello! Does anyone know how the plastic beneth the Barad-dur tower (with the uruk figurin) is fastened? Mine has loosened and hinders the tower from moving.

Its held in by these parts:

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Put in a Rottendog board for use as I need to fix the Power driver board waiting for Transistors for the Q16 (Flipper) to repair. Changed the diode already so just waiting. My question is that when playing the game my Left Vuk #3 and Right Vuk #5 seems to be the coils don't have the power to kick the ball up as it takes sometimes a few times (each Vuk) as well as one time. I added new sleeves and springs not to long ago while shopping out the playfield as well as new sleeves, springs, etc to have it play like new. I am wondering if these two coils would need to be replaced as possible lost some power? Also I notice very once in a while the game ends even when your playing. Possible the voltage on this new Rottendog is not up to par. Not sure of where to check the 5 volts on this board. Any advise? As for the old original Power driver board the Vuk #3 and #5 sometimes would not kick up as well but not like this Rottendog board.

Coils don't get weak with age.

Are you sure the issue is not that the ball is just bouncing back out of the habitrail?

Do the mechs move freely by hand?

I guess that would leave a power or connection issue.

I just replaced the disc capacitors on my flipper switches and they still flutter at times. When I clip the leg on the capacitors, they seem fine. Do I need the caps installed and am I missing out on some extra power? Do I need to look elsewhere for issues?

I think you're right on! I've had a couple minor issues with the Balrog but didn't think about them being related. I'll open up the game after work today and take a look, hopefully it's not a horrible project to get the Balrog out of there and check the switch out. Thanks for the help.

If you are just looking for that one, I think I have it. I bought the playset and only ended up using the other two.

Have a line on a near perfect HUO machine all original for $6K. Worth it? How reliable has this game been for you owners? I’m thinking about getting this as I want to experience the journey too. Long games, I’m all for it.

Perhaps a little high, but if you are in the market it's not terrible. I'm not looking to sell mine, but if someone dropped $6k on the glass, I'd help them load it up.

PS: I did find my extra figures. How about $15 shipped for Army of the Dead figure?

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Worth it in good condition.

It looks to be in great condition, low plays, unmolested with mods. I haven’t seen it in person, only pics, but it looks like it just came out of the box. How about the other questions.

Mine has been quite reliable. Any problems I've had are well documented by others and easily fixable... such as the wire harness for balrog breaking due to the opening and closing action. Easy enough to replace... I rebuilt my own. Also had a transistor short that controls a flasher (documented by another just recently in a post). I'm not so keen on board work, so I just pulled the flasher, but I'll get to replacing it eventually now that I ordered a desolder gun. Others have switched out flipper coils for the APB versions... but I have been good with stock. Had the current #1 player in MN over recently and he put up a new GC score with a monster game that went forever (I forgot to turn off extra balls before he got here). He had no trouble hitting shots even after what was probably 30-45 mins or more. Overall, it has been a fairly rock steady pin for me for about the last 3 years and it get a lot of play. Mine wasn't HUO, but lightly routed and in really nice shape.

I appreciate it, but another pinsider already contacted me and I was able to buy one.

Thank you for reaching out.

That's a great price and wont last. The pinside value is $5460 - $6340. I needed to correct some small issues when I got mine since it was used and not well maintained, but it has been reliable for 3yrs since and I doubt it will ever leave.

A recent podcast asked their listeners to redo the Pinsinde top 100 and pick the top 5 all time pins and requested the voters be impartial and unbiased and pick those that deserve. They picked LotR as the pin that should be #1 on the top 100.

That is a very fair price. If you're in the market I would snap it up quickly. I've had mine since '04 with no issues.

Yes, 6K for a HUO LOTR in nice condition is a very reasonable price. I have had my LOTR for over 10 years and it was not HUO. After fixing a few issues it has been nearly trouble free that entire time. ColorDMD is a must!

How do you set DTR to one ball? I go into my adjustments menu, select LOTR and I see adjustments for multiple things but nothing for DTR? Do I have an old version of code maybe?

What version of code do you have? It needs to be one of the later ones.

Figured out how to see what code version I have and it looks like 4.01! Wow, must be the factory original. I guess my game was made early (I suspected as much because I have a different Path of the Dead level than most I see on here).

Time for a code update!

Oh, I also checked my Ring switch and it was indeed only registering about 50% of the time during test mode. I adjusted the leaf and got it to register every time. Thanks for that tip, maybe I can Destroy the Ring now!

Another question. I rebuilt my flipper mechs and installed the medium strength coils available. First off, what a huge difference! Geez the ball flies all over the place now. I am getting more shots where the ball flies off the Legolas habitrail too which is an issue I've heard others talk about but never really noticed with my factory coils. I may go check in my settings and see what the coil strength is set to.

Anyhow, from where I have my flippers set I can no longer trap the ball every time from a Shire feed on the left. Is this correct or do I need to adjust my flippers up a little? Where do most people have their flippers set?

I believe the flipper bats should be in line with the ball guides. I use a short straight edge to get it lined up right.
I don't think the ball should stop on the left flipper (when held up) when it comes out of the left VUK.

I was looking at the manual and it lists a 455 blinking bulb, but not it’s location...

Anybody know?

Thanks!

BobC

Start button

Thanks!

Hey gang,

LOTR Palantir Mod will be on sale here on Pinside with the following 20% off Coupon to use during Checkout: "BF2019-20off"

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1227-williamson-pinball-mods/02988-palantir-eye-of-sauron-crystal-sphere-mod-for-stern-lotr

Supplies are limited, Coupon expires at midnight 12/29/19.

If you guys don't have one already.....use this opportunity to get one. Single best mod for the game.

Hi,
If someone is interested im restoring a Lord of the Rings, and ive made this decal JUST for the external part of the ring, is pretty common is not in the best conditions, mine was pretty good, but ive put it to protect it, to give it a perfect look, and with a playfield protector
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Excellent work man!

Thanks Man! Looks really amazing in person, im very happy with the final result.

Due to the great response Coupon has been extended thru CyberMonday!!!! At this point I have 7 Palantirs still available, however I'm not making another run of these until sometime in 2020.

I'm not sure I could ever do better than this. All 4 shots plus 2x ring shots (2-ball DTR), no misses, stock coils. I surprised even myself!

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