and also got a heap of really nice cutters of all different styles to trial and use for specific jobs from a Aussie Guy that is into bench cnc's and tests everything and is super helpful and the info grabbed (shown below) is from his site which I will plug into the manual. Hope the info is helpful and interesting. It has been a big and interesting learning curve.
Pine/ Hardwood/ MDF - a sharp up cut is more than fine to use and are the more economical option. Up cut does create a bit of a burr so it's ok to use when that is not an issue. A compression (up/down cut) bit is a great alternative when you are cutting all the way through or a down cut when you want to cut into your material or are not too fussed about a bottom finish.
Plywood and Aluminium Composite - the go to for these materials are a compression or down cut bit. A compression bit cuts up through the material for the first 4mm and the rest is a down cut. A down cut does an equally great job by pushing the layers down rather than ripping up. Another great go to for plywood is a straight cut. These do not pull up or down and leave a great finish.
Cast Acrylic - A sharp 1 flute or 2 flute up cut spiral bit ejects the chips well and are the go to.
Aluminium - Stick to the End Mill section with an uncoated carbide bit.
HDPE/ 2 ply colour ABS - for assured results a straight flute is recommended as well as an up cut. Just make sure your material is well secured when using an up cut bit.
3D profiling - you have a choice of ball nose cutters with a long cutting length or tapered end mills
Most of the mentioned mills are available in 1/8" (3.175mm), 4mm and 6mm shanks and range in sizes from 0.5mm up to 6mm and 3mm in length up to 32mm.