getting late here, so will sort out tomorrow - there is a left and a right

yes thin layer with glue stick! makes a huge difference! i do it every time or maybe every 2-3 prints depending on time between prints. you need to gently wipe it off after a few prints or it gets caked in. wet paper towels does the trick.

There is no one right way to make the first layer adhesion work. It depends on many factors, the type of filament used, the surface material of the build plate, the Z height, the temperature of the build plate, and the temperature of the extruder. I found this to be an excellent resource. Also, if you poke around their website, there are some articles worth reading. https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/
In my workshop, I use CNC router, CNC laser, a variety of woodworking tools, etc. My 3-D printers are undoubtedly the most complex tools, but also the most rewarding. Stick with it, it pays off.

What's a good free cad software to be able to change stl files in? One that won't need a year of study to be able to figure out please

STL's can't really be edited in any CAD program. an STL is a faceted surface. I usually use meshmixer when I need to edit an STL.

Thank's all for your answers !

So i tested 2 vinyl prints, both with a lamination. I finally found a french printer with vinyle transparency + white selective + protective lamination.
- first with a mat lamination
- second with a shiny lamination.

I applied 3 layers of clearcoating, the spraymax 2K shiny can.
And it looks perfect, no problem at all with the vinyl, no bubble, no strange reaction.
I did it very gently with the first layer, more like a fog pass.
The second and third one were more strong (20 minutes between each layer).

I will stick with the shiny lamination + 2K shiny clearcoting (I don't like the mat effect) for the final print.
Thank's again for the help !

Here the result after 3 layers :
338322872_3446275949024310_3989996011875462214_n (resized).jpg

Not as bright as I hoped, but this will work.

I found some .100 connectors that work with these little rgb boards I made. Much better than the soldered connections I used to use.

20230408_203107 (resized).jpg

Well, it's from Aliexpress. We'll see if the link works. I got 3 pin XH 2.54mm sets. Each set is 10 wired connectors and 10 headers. I bought a couple of hundred to use on these boards.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800712290278.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.30.12cc1802cmifer&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

The boards are open source. https://github.com/jhpieper/pin-led

For the short runs between close lamp boards, I just solder them together with a piece of heat shrink to cover.

However, for your boards, they already have headers. So, I would ask Fast what connectors you need.

338719341_599726875509768_1682242127255402752_n (resized).jpg

The enchanted cable forrest.

This is super nice !

I need some help, my brain is totally stuck on my next problem : matrix wiring.
I have a cobraboard, i try to understand how i can wire all my switches...

There's some information on the cobrapage, but "only" with row and columns.
What I am supposed to do with wires ?
I don't understand how i basically plug my switches... Where to start, where to end... Are they all plugged together ?
Do you know a basic internet page with a clear explanation on matrix configuration ?
Maybe with an example plan or an "electrical diagram" ?

Thank's for your help !

My interview on the pinball network homebrew channel.
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-pinball-network/id1497645647?i=1000608607795

First, how many switches do you have? That will determine whether you are using direct drive switches or a switch matrix.

great interview. its good to hear people's backgrounds and skills who jump into homebrew.

Unless you have more switches and switch inputs, I highly suggest you not use a matrix. The wiring is more difficult and the debugging much more difficult.

Using 48V for switches seems wrong?

That seems like a mistake. I believe that cobrapin switches are 3.3v, in fact.

In terms of the matrix, unless it's a very simple playfield, he'll run out of direct switches. Maybe adding a satellite board would resolve that(adds 23 more inputs). I took a 4x8 lamp matrix harness from a Stern ticket redemption game and repurposed it. It still takes some work, but it's not too bad.

loved it! was very entertaining!

Shouldn't you be using the switch grounds? The switch grounds are on the same same connectors as the drivers. Electrically, they might be connected at some downstream point to the 48v ground, but I think they are meant to be grounded at the connector.
Screenshot_20230413-175344_Chrome (resized).jpg

Everything is working on my pinball, but just with a few switches (direct drive). I'm using the ground of the switch bank.

But I need to connect a lot of them. I think i will have 60 contacts.
I have the Satellite Board. If i flash the main cobra, i can go to direct switches, i think it will be enough.
Is it really more difficult to use the matrix system ?

As I said, my pinball is flipping
That's the Cthulhu, still working on it.
My problem is that I have too many switches for the cobra board.
I understand how it's working for direct switch (and i used the ground from switches bank without problem), but i don't understand what i'm supposed to do with the matrix.

Maybe an idea is to flash the cobra, go to the "direct" version, and use my Satellite Board, to do all in direct...
But i'm scared to flash the cobraboard.... I fear to lost everything.

edit : I will exactly have 62 contacts if i'm not forgetting something (probably 64, i forgot the door).
The cobra + the Satellite Board in direct allow... 61 switches....
If i'm going this way I will need to erase a contact (maybe one for the ramp). But I can't make any mistake.... Not sur it's the good way...

20 targets
4 drop targets
12 roll-over

2 scoop
3 bumpers
6 ramps
3 slingshots
1 spinner

5 ball drain
1 eject lane

4 buttons (start - 2 flip - fire)
1 tilt
I forgot the door. So 1 coin + 1 door open ?

(i'm not using any contact for the flipper, it's dual-coil with the "modern" approach)

Thanks guys, it was a lot of fun. Tried to keep it light and entertaining.

Have you ever serviced an older pin? They almost all use a switch matrix (and possibly a lamp matrix)

It was a way to reduce wiring and deal with the limited inputs of older CPUs. Give this a read https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_switch_matrix.html

You need to organize a matrix for your switches and wire them up that way, or get more of those satellite boards to add more direct inputs.

Even a smaller matrix will give you the switches you need. First, read this link.

https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_switch_matrix.html

Then, look for some natural groupings on your playfield. Places where you have lamps in a row is ideal. Making a 4x5(20 switches) matrix or higher in addition to the rest of the direct switches will give you the number of inputs you need.
Edit: I didn't notice that the link I shared was the same as above

I feel ya, I created a spreadsheet with three tabs to help myself out. One tab for a switch matrix, tab for direct switch inputs, and one for coils. Here's a link: https://1drv.ms/x/s!AmJnNrobtOftogLEFNnMLUglq--h?e=85IfgU

Arzach_SW_MATRIX (resized).jpg

Thank's everyone for your answers !
I'll read the link and take some time to understand it !

I would stay away from the matrix and just order the expansion board for the cobrapin and can even mount under playfield. Thats what I did for league. On cobra, the ground bank for the switches is same ground as the 48v as far as I understand it.

I think he needs to remove one switch to go fully direct.

that spreadsheet is very helpful to understand with the Cobrapin board

can someone share some photos of coil (flipper etc) at the coil and then at the Cobra board ?

I will use the Satellite Board (i have one already), I need it for some coil (and shaker, and motor).
But not enough direct mount possible.
I need to remove more than one switch to go direct, probably 3 or 4.
Not a good idea, i'll see.

Or maybe I can use the cobrapin + Satellite Board +Xpansion board .. but it's starting to look like huge...

You should ask cobra18t for his opinion.

I would triple check the part about the ground. The 48 V ground on Pinball machines is unstable because of the current surges when coils fire. Add a minimum this creates the potential for interference on the switch and at worst can damage the micro controller. Also, tying all your switches from a header to the ground on the same header plug makes debugging easier. When you disengage the header, you disconnect all of the switches and their ground that segment of your machine. It sounds unnecessarily complicated but if you miss wire something, being able to isolate various parts of the machine, makes it much easier to find your mistake.

Honestly the biggest reason I went with P3 years ago was because of their documentation compared to everyone else. Although it’s maybe a bit lacking by modern Fast standards

Fast docs have come a Long ways in a short bit of time with Brian on board. Brian is awesome at writing tech docs, But for years prior it was very lacking.. I think cobrapin is probably sitting in that realm at the moment.. it takes a lot of time and talent to get good docs put together

yes I was on the fence

FAST vs Cobrapin

FAST - up to recently the documentation lacked, but now with the exchange rate and all the other parts / breakouts FAST has gotten more expensive but very cool

where as

Cobrapin - is more affordable as want to do a simpler pin and I really want to use a alphanumeric board that he has done, but the documentation is lacking - it is assumed people have knowledge for some areas

But this thread is helping, would love some more info like photos of connecting coils to wires and wires to the board just to make sure I am assuming correctly.

yup! why I chose fast

At a certain point, trying to save $200 on the board set is irrelevant to the overall project cost lol. There is a lot of value in saving time with a more flexible and well documented controller.