(Topic ID: 329350)

The Homebrew Channel: Tips, Tricks & Showoff Pics

By Mudflaps

1 year ago


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    There are 647 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 13.
    #1 1 year ago

    I thought I’d start a thread to discuss existing homebrew games, ongoing homebrew builds or provide a resource for aspiring homebrew builders. Just in the past few years, there’s been an amazing amount of boards, software, hardware and community support to allow pretty much anyone with enough motivation to build their own game. There’s never been a better time to start.

    There are some existing Discord channels dedicated to homebrew builds, but hopefully this can be a good resource for tips, tricks and showoff pics. Please feel free to post questions, answers or pictures of your game. Selfishly, I’m hopeful that more experienced builders can help me navigate my own game with code, video and audio assets.

    Some helpful links:

    FastPinball: https://fastpinball.com

    PROC: https://www.multimorphic.com

    CobraPin: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1254-cobra-amusements/05162-cobrapin-pinball-controller

    Mission Pinball Framework (MPF): https://docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/tutorial/

    Hardware: https://www.pinballlife.com/homebrew-pinball.html

    Cabinet: https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2&zenid=raguukk4ih46ll1n0ob84jm2c7

    2022 Homebrew TWIPY: https://twipys.com/2022-twipys-ballot/

    #3 1 year ago

    A Facebook group dedicated to re-themes and fully custom built pinball. “Strictly Custom Pinball Machines”

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/1148598398602739/?ref=share_group_link

    #4 1 year ago

    I've done a few major rethemes now and lots of custom work. Working on a new retheme now and then it's a full blown scratch build.
    I haven't picked a platform yet, very concerned on longevity and backup support... stay tuned!
    I have however decided to stay out of any competitive aspects and some of the groups, just want to be fully neutral. There are some ugly sides I'm finding like any hobby.

    I love seeing some of the custom work people do like Steam Boat Willy, the NZ LedZep and lots of others!

    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from KJS:

    the NZ LedZep

    Wait till you see the next ones.

    rd

    #6 1 year ago

    Steve from ThePinballRoom has a great series on YouTube outlining his LZ build along with some good tips and tutorials. It’s been an awesome resource for me.

    #7 1 year ago

    Cross posted on the google group, but maybe someone here can find my issue.

    I have a pinballlife scoop with an opto. I'm running CobraPin, so 5V and 48V, and I picked up a pinballlife opto board to convert the voltage to run the opto. The switch is running to J2, 0-0-27. I sketched up how it's connected, but the power and ground run from the 5V power supply to the pinballlife board input. The output goes to the opto transmitter (5V+ and ground). The opto receiver runs to J2, 0-0-27 and directly to the 5V ground on the power supply.

    I installed the pinballlife opto board with a new transmitter/receiver. The emitter is working (checked the IR on my iPhone). I added the scoop as a ball event and started a game. Once the game started, the scoop coil fired about once per second for a few seconds then stopped. Once the ball entered the scoop, it ejected normally (yay!) but then the coil fired another handful of times (boo!). On the mpf switch screen, the vuk opto is rapidly blinking. This behavior persisted for the duration of the game.

    Do I need a higher or lower output resistor, or is it something more simple?

    opto board (resized).jpegopto board (resized).jpegopto wiring (resized).jpegopto wiring (resized).jpeg
    #8 1 year ago

    You've got the opto switch configured correctly in MPF, yeah? as NC or NO ?

    My thought on this is to ask -- are you sure those are 5v opto boards and the opto power board was meant for 5v input? I'm not super familiar with Spooky / Proc setups but all my optos are 12v and use 12v power split boards which is why I ask... based on what you are seeing it sounds underpowered and the beam is possibly weak. I have a few of those PBL opto split boards but I ran different resistors in them to use them for proxy switch power at 5v.. which was a while ago but again has me questioning if they are meant for 12v input or 5v with stock resistors.

    I tried digging around on spooky manuals to verify but couldn't find any info..

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    You've got the opto switch configured correctly in MPF, yeah? as NC or NO ?
    My thought on this is to ask -- are you sure those are 5v opto boards and the opto power board was meant for 5v input? I'm not super familiar with Spooky / Proc setups but all my optos are 12v and use 12v power split boards which is why I ask... based on what you are seeing it sounds underpowered and the beam is possibly weak. I have a few of those PBL opto split boards but I ran different resistors in them to use them for proxy switch power at 5v.. which was a while ago but again has me questioning if they are meant for 12v input or 5v with stock resistors.
    I tried digging around on spooky manuals to verify but couldn't find any info..

    Crappy picture, but yes, it’s a 5V board.

    On MPF, it’s configured as ‘NO’ for normally open, so an opto switch. On the software side, I believe everything is configured properly. The flickering switch on the display screen leads me to believe there’s a flaky connection, possibly with the resistor. It’s either not getting enough voltage or too much voltage.

    Scott Danesi has an opto gonkulator, and I’m pretty sure the included resistor on the board is the same one designed for 5V…. 47ohm, 1/2 watt.

    https://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1433

    I have a giant box of resistors, so I can swap if I need to adjust the resistance to allow more/less voltage. However, I may be way off base. I’m not exactly God’s gift to wiring and voltage.

    002CE4B2-8DAA-4958-8497-E72325899EEC (resized).jpeg002CE4B2-8DAA-4958-8497-E72325899EEC (resized).jpeg
    #10 1 year ago

    Got it. The folks at CobraPin got me sorted... my opto board was connected directly to the power supply vs. running through the CobraPin. So, disregard my schematic above, the 5V power and ground go through CobraPin *first*. Scoop works like a champ!

    1 week later
    #11 1 year ago

    Concerning the cabinet: I kind of want to find an old cabinet and sand it down. Do many of you guys go this route or have you found it easier/cheaper to get your own wood and make it from scratch. I am just hitting a brick wall trying to locate an old cabinet for minimal coin.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from gandamack:

    Concerning the cabinet: I kind of want to find an old cabinet and sand it down. Do many of you guys go this route or have you found it easier/cheaper to get your own wood and make it from scratch. I am just hitting a brick wall trying to locate an old cabinet for minimal coin.

    Cabs pop up every now and again, sometimes in decent shape, sometimes roached. I went through Paul at VirtuaPin, but that’s spendy. Octomodz offers a flat pack also.

    I can do a lot, but building a quality cabinet is not one of them. I was willing to drop some coin, but certainly you could wait if the right deal pops up.

    #13 1 year ago

    Spent the last few days rebuilding my donor head. The display/speaker panel and insert panel are both custom.
    I don't usually talk about builds on pinside until I have it flipping. Then, I'll make a thread.

    327636198_913106193159494_5495070038891820869_n (resized).jpg327636198_913106193159494_5495070038891820869_n (resized).jpg
    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from ThatOneDude:

    Spent the last few days rebuilding my donor head. The display/speaker panel and insert panel are both custom.
    I don't usually talk about builds on pinside until I have it flipping. Then, I'll make a thread.
    [quoted image]

    Spill the beans! What’s the the theme?

    I’m spending the weekend building my playfield digital file for CAD on Adobe Illustrator.

    #15 1 year ago

    Escape from Hell. You have to collect the pieces of the devil's pitchfork to fight him and get free.
    Playing with the displays here

    #16 1 year ago

    For cabinets, I would suggest just getting an old beat up one and just fixing it up and painting it. Put a WTB ad out there as there are a BUNCH of restorers that just discard the old cabinets when they replace them. Homebrewing games gets SUPER expensive the further you get into it. Also, this sounds terrible, but sometimes people do not finish their homebrews and will often sell off the parts including the cabinet.
    --Scott

    #17 1 year ago

    I pick up any old cabinet that floats by. This one is an old DE Star Trek. I designed a new display panel, so I built everything else around it.
    I have a storage unit with a bunch of cabinets of various vintages waiting their turn at a new life.

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from gandamack:

    Concerning the cabinet: I kind of want to find an old cabinet and sand it down. Do many of you guys go this route or have you found it easier/cheaper to get your own wood and make it from scratch. I am just hitting a brick wall trying to locate an old cabinet for minimal coin.

    It's not that complicated to build your own if you own a decent skill saw, and a jig saw. I can build the entire cabinet in a few hours, and the back box in a few hours. 2 pieces of plywood, and some 1" x 2" will do the whole thing.

    20220813_163431 (resized).jpg20220813_163431 (resized).jpg

    #19 1 year ago

    Depends what you’re going for. A modern cab to correct dims with holes in exact correct places for hardware is a bit more complicated - with miters on all the edges with whatever those interlocking cuts are called and bracing and such. There’s a reason most people doing them are cncing.. and still easy to make a mistake.

    #20 1 year ago

    I whipped this up in a couple of hours with Makita battery tools (my big tools were still out on site). You can see them in the background lol

    This one is just 18mm MDF. It weighs a ton. The 12mm ply bottom is rebated in.

    I prefer screwed and glued corner joints … they never come apart.

    rd
    823EAF69-5FEB-428E-852C-D5BD9D64DB5F (resized).jpeg823EAF69-5FEB-428E-852C-D5BD9D64DB5F (resized).jpeg11662DAC-3F8B-4EC1-90BD-9D53CCCB0902 (resized).jpeg11662DAC-3F8B-4EC1-90BD-9D53CCCB0902 (resized).jpeg

    #21 1 year ago

    Some impressive woodworking skills! I picked up a replacement Bally head when I restored Medusa, and I had never seen quality like that. I knew I’d never be able to do that, and I’m happy to pay someone.

    Goes to show that homebrew is a collection of skills… woodworking, art, creativity, coding, wiring, etc.

    In the meanwhile, I just sent my playfield files out to get CNC’ed. I used Adobe Acrobat, though some use Fusion 360. Still waiting on the cabinet from Paul

    Added 13 months ago:

    Sorry, Adobe Illustrator, not Acrobat.

    #22 1 year ago
    Quoted from rotordave:

    I whipped this up in a couple of hours with Makita battery tools (my big tools were still out on site). You can see them in the background lol
    This one is just 18mm MDF. It weighs a ton. The 12mm ply bottom is rebated in.
    I prefer screwed and glued corner joints … they never come apart.
    rd
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Agreed, glue, and screws are 3 times stronger than a"factory" cab. Making exact is fine, but the idea of "homebrew" is to do your own thing.
    I'm not trying to remodel an already built house, I'm trying to build my own house. I want a cabinet that will fit what I want on the playfield rather than cram stuff into a corporate standard size. My latest is almost a widebody, and about 2 inches longer.

    20230205_160415 (resized).jpg20230205_160415 (resized).jpg
    #23 1 year ago

    That’s really cool. I linked your build thread, if you don’t mind. Keep the pics coming!

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/when-rain-washes-away-the-game

    #24 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    That’s really cool. I linked your build thread, if you don’t mind. Keep the pics coming!
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/when-rain-washes-away-the-game

    awesome! my sons and I are embarking on our first honebrew and have so much to learn. Thanks in advance for all the advice we will be seeking from you all (especially where to get playfield art done, how to get it on playfield, and how to get my to scale paper sketch into a CNC machine!)

    10
    #25 1 year ago

    Been getting a lot of base wiring done on the next game.

    20230207_101939 (resized).jpg20230207_101939 (resized).jpg

    #26 1 year ago
    Quoted from DaddyManD:

    how to get my to scale paper sketch into a CNC machine!

    For this, I used Adobe Illustrator. It’s not free (there’s a subscription cost), but it’s relatively user friendly and can be converted to a CNC-ready file. I think others use Fusion 360.

    I started with a roached playfield, tape, cardstock, etc. Then I got the Italian bottom bare playfield and started cutting/experimenting. Once I was happy, I imported the dimensions to AI (with inserts) and sent the file out.

    Now, I’m waiting on my 2nd playfield with all of my cuts. Once I get it, I’m going to install the inserts, clearcoat and repopulate all my ramps and mechs and stuff. Then lighting, then assembling the cabinet, then coding.

    0FBD668A-355F-4441-90AA-793DB821845A (resized).jpeg0FBD668A-355F-4441-90AA-793DB821845A (resized).jpeg
    #27 1 year ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    Been getting a lot of base wiring done on the next game.
    [quoted image]

    That looks super clean. I’m jealous.

    #28 1 year ago

    Mudflaps I am really glad you started this thread. I feel like there isn't a place on Pinside to just ask a HB question. It was all build threads. The MPF Google group and the HB slack channel are good but sometimes I have dumb questions I hope I get to the point with my retheme/recode project where I feel like it is worthy of sharing.

    #29 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    That looks super clean. I’m jealous.

    Thanks, playfield wiring is up next.

    Quoted from Palmer:

    Mudflaps I am really glad you started this thread. I feel like there isn't a place on Pinside to just ask a HB question. It was all build threads. The MPF Google group and the HB slack channel are good but sometimes I have dumb questions I hope I get to the point with my retheme/recode project where I feel like it is worthy of sharing.

    I'm glad too for some of the same reasons. I also don't really want to start/run a thread about this game that another homebrewer and I are doing, so this is a nice place to pop in and chat.

    #30 1 year ago
    Quoted from Palmer:

    I feel like there isn't a place on Pinside to just ask a HB question.

    I tried to restart my whitewood thread, which was kind of the old place for that, but it was just too old I think to really get traction again. And while full of useful info it's also pretty dated. Everyone didn't have 3D printers when I started it for instance, was still a little exotic. Now if you're homebrewing and you don't own a 3D printer ... well, why don't you own a 3D printer?? So damn useful.

    A good general thread reboot sounds great to me!

    #31 1 year ago

    Yeah, there’s a list of mandatory things you’ll need, and I think a 3D printer is one of them. There’s also a huge amount of resources available that weren’t here five years ago… MPF is maturing, numerous boards to choose from, accessibility/cost of 3D printers, parts availability, and some pretty kickass Homebrew builders willing to share their expertise.

    #32 1 year ago

    I’ve been putting off looking into 3d printers because they’re so intimidating to me. I also haven’t learned how to model anything yet, so I should do that as well. Anyone got good suggestions on a printer, and how to learn how to use it?

    #33 1 year ago
    Quoted from DOOOMTRAIN:

    I’ve been putting off looking into 3d printers because they’re so intimidating to me. I also haven’t learned how to model anything yet, so I should do that as well. Anyone got good suggestions on a printer, and how to learn how to use it?

    There's a really good thread for more general questions here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby

    They're really not hard to use these days. The only real question I think is what's your budget? To a certain extent you get what you pay for, mostly in terms of headaches and just working out of the box. Cheap printers can do just as well as more expensive ones, but they may need more babying and upgrading and tinkering at the start.

    You can learn basic modeling pretty easily, but there are a ton of useful models already out there to use too, or people might be able to help you with simple ones while you're learning still.

    #34 1 year ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Now if you're homebrewing and you don't own a 3D printer ... well, why don't you own a 3D printer??

    Ouch. Guilty as charged.

    #35 1 year ago

    I don't have a 3D printer. I think about getting one, but frankly a lot of stuff is easy enough to make by hand or to mock up with foam core board. I guess it just depends on what you want to focus on building. Making original ramps and not reusing them from other games would be the main thing I'd use one for, but I like focusing on single level designs.

    I also just print out designs on paper, glue them to wood, and then free hand route designs.

    #36 1 year ago

    Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D
    https://a.co/d/hP6EMZ9

    ^^ This is a good entry printer. You don’t need any expertise, just enthusiasm and access to YouTube. I picked one up on sale for $100 and still use it.

    #37 1 year ago

    Ramps are the last thing I would use a 3D printer for honestly. I mean, you can, the amazing thing about them is how flexible they are, but you may not realize how genuinely useful a tool they are to own until you actually have one. That was my experience.

    Sometimes it's the little things, not big flashy stuff, that are the most valuable. The ability to have a little custom plastic part that's the exact right size and shape is just crazy useful. Or, 15 of them, all the same. Replication and repeatability are really strong assets to have access to.

    I really and truly consider them an essential tool to own for anyone who's remotely creative or makes things. For making pinball? It's a no brainer.

    #38 1 year ago

    Sure, they're helpful. But I don't think you have to have one like some are implying.

    I don't spend a lot of time worrying about reproducing things for a one-off homebrew that is primarily for myself. Bending some metal or free hand cutting polycarbonate sheets to make custom plastics is quick and simple.

    But if people like modeling and printing stuff, go for it. There's a million ways to occupy yourself while putting together a pin.

    10
    #39 1 year ago

    The great thing about homebrew, is there's 1000 ways to get there and none are the wrong way. At the end of the day, as long as you're happy with what you built and enjoy it, thats all that matters. If you're building one to get a job, then I could see doing things a specific way or looking to sell. However, I'd say 90% of the Homebrewers are just doing it to enjoy it their self or bring to a show.

    #40 1 year ago

    I think it goes without saying you can build things however you like.

    I'd recommend owning a 3D printer because they're just amazingly useful tools and I'm trying to be helpful, but I have zero interest in arguing with someone who doesn't want to use one. Go your own way.

    But to be clear, this isn't about making things to get a job, making things to sell, or making multiple versions of your game. When I said making 15 of something the same I don't mean making 15 playfields. Though of course that's always an option. Or maybe you and a partner are making a game together and building two side by side and sharing parts. But just a single solo build has so many use cases.

    Maybe you want a little clip to hold your insert lights the perfect distance away because they're hot spotting too much. You can work on a design, printing something, trying it, adjusting and making new ones until you're happy with the distance and how they fit in etc. Then print enough for all your inserts. They'll all have your design you worked out duplicated perfectly and easily and you get get your playfield looking like you wanted.

    Maybe you're printing diffusers out of transparent filament. Print the whole clip and the diffuser out of the same material.

    If you want to just screw your little PCBs straight into the playfield instead that's fine. If you want to hand cut spacers out of wood with a coping saw that's fine too. Just like you can hand drill a playfield, rout it with templates, or use a CNC.

    3D printers are just another tool. But for something like making pinball where there are a million different little use cases for custom parts it can really shine. Print up a diverter arm. Print brackets to hold ball guides. Print clips to hold habit rails while you design your wireforms. Make mounts for your in-line playfield segmented displays.

    #41 1 year ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    I think it goes without saying you can build things however you like.
    I'd recommend owning a 3D printer because they're just amazingly useful tools and I'm trying to be helpful, but I have zero interest in arguing with someone who doesn't want to use one. Go your own way.
    But to be clear, this isn't about making things to get a job, making things to sell, or making multiple versions of your game. When I said making 15 of something the same I don't mean making 15 playfields. Though of course that's always an option. Or maybe you and a partner are making a game together and building two side by side and sharing parts. But just a single solo build has so many use cases.
    Maybe you want a little clip to hold your insert lights the perfect distance away because they're hot spotting too much. You can work on a design, printing something, trying it, adjusting and making new ones until you're happy with the distance and how they fit in etc. Then print enough for all your inserts. They'll all have your design you worked out duplicated perfectly and easily and you get get your playfield looking like you wanted.
    Maybe you're printing diffusers out of transparent filament. Print the whole clip and the diffuser out of the same material.
    If you want to just screw your little PCBs straight into the playfield instead that's fine. If you want to hand cut spacers out of wood with a coping saw that's fine too. Just like you can hand drill a playfield, rout it with templates, or use a CNC.
    3D printers are just another tool. But for something like making pinball where there are a million different little use cases for custom parts it can really shine. Print up a diverter arm. Print brackets to hold ball guides. Print clips to hold habit rails while you design your wireforms. Make mounts for your in-line playfield segmented displays.

    I agree, I would never think about doing a homebrew without a 3D printer myself.

    #42 1 year ago

    My sons (15 and 13) and I are about to embark on our first homebrew. Theme is Overwatch (Blizzard video game). We are maybe 3 weeks in and learning as we go. We have basic 3D printing skills and Adobe skills, can solder and do basic game repairs, but playfield art design, printing and cutting are new to us. After confirming with the boys that they won’t lose steam on this project (will see!) we purchased a homebrew starter kit from Octomodz which we look forward to populating!
    Going to try to keep simple fanish layout (we love flow) with a mix of inspiration from AFM, STh, Iron Maiden and Black Knight in terms of shots. Ordered some ramps from Ramp O Matic that should work and have wireforms sourced. Definitely excited and trying not to get overwhelmed! Need to order a rotisserie this week (not making one haha)!

    C09A9AFA-EA39-4C6E-996C-A13872338DF3 (resized).jpegC09A9AFA-EA39-4C6E-996C-A13872338DF3 (resized).jpeg
    #43 1 year ago
    Quoted from DaddyManD:

    My sons (15 and 13) and I are about to embark on our first homebrew. Theme is Overwatch (Blizzard video game). We are maybe 3 weeks in and learning as we go. We have basic 3D printing skills and Adobe skills, can solder and do basic game repairs, but playfield art design, printing and cutting are new to us. After confirming with the boys that they won’t lose steam on this project (will see!) we purchased a homebrew starter kit from Octomodz which we look forward to populating!
    Going to try to keep simple fanish layout (we love flow) with a mix of inspiration from AFM, STh, Iron Maiden and Black Knight in terms of shots. Ordered some ramps from Ramp O Matic that should work and have wireforms sourced. Definitely excited and trying not to get overwhelmed! Need to order a rotisserie this week (not making one haha)!
    [quoted image]

    That’s great! Keep the updates coming, you’ll be flipping in no time. The layout looks super fun.

    #44 1 year ago

    Just talked to Paul at VirtuaPins. My cabinet ships early next week. Thank God, because this setup is kind of embarrassing…

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from Mudflaps:

    Just talked to Paul at VirtuaPins. My cabinet ships early next week. Thank God, because this setup is kind of embarrassing…[quoted image]

    omg man love this haha! you are going so fast you are waiting on a cab!

    #46 1 year ago
    Quoted from Octomodz:

    The great thing about homebrew, is there's 1000 ways to get there and none are the wrong way.

    *looks at playfield on fire*
    There might be a few "wrong ways" after all.

    #47 1 year ago

    I'm completely petrified of 3D printers but would love to try before I buy kind of thing. I can make nearly anything now, but it would be fun to play with. Having welders, plasma cutter, every saw known to man, and planers, routers, etc is a nice plus. I own a custom guitar shop, (Bigg Deal Customs), so intricate wood things is pretty normal for me.

    My HB is pretty far along now, cabinet is done, playfield top is really close, but the wiring is a ways off. Most of cabinet wiring is complete, but playfield just got started.
    I did several small things I've not seen others do yet on lighting, and i put an Mp3 player/jukebox mod into my cabinet for when I'm not playing, and just want music.
    Next playfield will be carbon fiber/epoxy which I think will be really cool with the depth and such.

    This thread is already very cool, and glad I found it. I love sharing ideas, and always love advice from multiple points of view.

    #48 1 year ago
    Quoted from MrBigg:

    I'm completely petrified of 3D printers but would love to try before I buy kind of thing. I can make nearly anything now, but it would be fun to play with. Having welders, plasma cutter, every saw known to man, and planers, routers, etc is a nice plus. I own a custom guitar shop, (Bigg Deak Customs), so intricate wood things is pretty normal for me.
    My HB is pretty far along now, cabinet is done, playfield top is really close, but the wiring is a ways off. Most of cabinet wiring is complete, but playfield just got started.
    I did several small things I've not seen others do yet on lighting, and i put an Mp3 player/jukebox mod into my cabinet for when I'm not playing, and just want music.
    Next playfield will be carbon fiber/epoxy which I think will be really cool with the depth and such.
    This thread is already very cool, and glad I found it. I love sharing ideas, and always love advice from multiple points of view.

    me and my sons bought the ender 3 an Amazon for $299 two years ago. we had zero experience. First day was a little frustrating and since then I would say best return on investment pretty much any purchase ever. So useful and endless fun.

    #49 1 year ago
    Quoted from DOOOMTRAIN:

    I’ve been putting off looking into 3d printers because they’re so intimidating to me. I also haven’t learned how to model anything yet, so I should do that as well. Anyone got good suggestions on a printer, and how to learn how to use it?

    i had 3 different 3d printers and have now settled on the Prusa i3 mk3. The software is really nice, i usually put in 2 or 3 parameters and it is ready for printing. And the printer just works. Although the filament is a factor as well. Right now i use a lot of Amazon Basics PLA and PET Filament, and it works very well.

    When modeling the parts i usually use Autodesk Tinkercad. it is free and web based. It has it's limitations but is very easy to use and even easier to start with.
    I have done a few things in fustion 360 and onshape but spent to little time with it, so i have trouble getting into them completely.

    #50 1 year ago

    Before having a 3D printer, I figured I could make anything myself with a saw, wood, metal, whatever. I made a lot of parts this way, some made more sense than others in terms of going that route via 3D printing. It’s indispensable now. I’d say the printer is useful, but being able to model a custom little part you need is the key. I just wouldn’t have known how useful it would be without buying one probably.. it took someone else gratuitously doing some custom models for my game to see the light.

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