They are in stock. I saw them sitting in the factory.

Both SE and LE.

Have any of the new owners changed the actual flippers yet? Being such a beautiful and polished looking game, the regular yellow flippers look out of place. Wondering what people have tried and how it looks.

The only thing I'm doing this weekend to mine is

* Mirror blades
* Bag End - adding a model house at the pop bumpers

I'd love to see how this works out. This would add to the shot.

Hi All !

Just got my SE on Monday afternoon serial ending in 073. Smaug is still spelled smuag on the box stamp.

First off I want to thank Jack and Team at JJP for an amazing and beautiful game, there is really nothing like the look, quality and feel of these games.

The box was crushed and "popped" at the top, looks like someone strapped it too tightly near the top and it broke the packing tape.
I was a bit worried about water damage due to it shipped all the way to Reno during the rain and snow last week in the Midwest.
The driver from R&L was wonderfully helpful and patient, he suggested I inspect everything while he waited, so I did.

The open box let a lot of dust inside but otherwise no damage at all, the packaging was superb.

Moving it to my game room seemed heavier that the WOZ!
Setup was easy, I set the angle to 7°, leveled left to right with a torpedo level, checked for anything loose or bent, excellent quality over-all.

Game booted right up everything except the spider pop-up worked perfectly under the tests.
The spider was rubbing on the left side of the wooden hole. It looks like it is not centered in the hole properly, but there is only about a 1/16th" of space to play with. I'm going to have to remove it and elongate the bracket holes a tiny bit to get it to center properly. Running a drill bit through and side cutting the holes slightly is a simple fix for this.

I have seen this exact problem on a couple of the videos, (spider wont pop up).

The USB cable end connector fit very loosely on my USB stick, and would not register it for a back-up of the settings (my WOZ fits tightly) I did not have a spare handy so I pulled the cable from my WOZ, did the back-up and installed version 1.01 code. (I'm sure I have a suitable cable laying around for a replacement later).

The flippers were a little weak on factory settings, I couldn't get up the right ramp easily with the right flipper. I set them up higher by 4.
This was way too hard and the ball moved so fast it would fly off the wireforms. I lowered the settings by 2 and it seems perfect, I could probably lower it by 1 more.

I played 10 games and once the ball trough failed to deliver a ball so I increased its strength by 1 only. I also increased the right VUK by 1 only.

I also increased the upper left sling by 2 ( I think this one is just a matter of taste).

Gameplay:

Let me say that the comments on being slow or floaty do not apply to this game at all.
My game is fast and crisp playing and FUN!

The pop-up monsters are amazing and FUN! The game is easy for the novice and deeply challenging for the experts!

To compare it to the WOZ is just impossible, they are 2 different and distinct accomplishments from JJP.

Again, this game is a winner hands down and will be a permanent fixture on my collection for years to come.

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I sure hope that JJP gets on the fix for the popups rubbing against the playfield. That comment is showing up too often.

Hi LTG or Pinchroma
Any idea where i can hook my polk sub up to on Hobbit?
On WOZ i was able to use the Aux Port on the back on my Pin
Hobbit does not have an aux Jack in back

Any help would be great!!

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I don't think its a huge problem per se, Its just that there is very little room for error. If I had 1/64th" more space it would be fine.
Maybe they could put 2 layers of masking tape on the sides of the holes during assembly to insure a little more clearance and then remove it before the next step.

I have a question about the windlance settings.
When it fires the ball back into play, how far should it go?
On my game it goes up the alley towards the pop bumpers, but not into them, and slides back down into play.

If you are controlling it with the ring button, you are trying to hit the "MAN" drop targets.

If the machine is controlling it, mine is about the same, not quite making it to the pops.

Thanks, I guess mine is working perfectly then

Best score I can do so far.

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Where did you purchase the mirror blades for TH? From PDI?

Got my LE #450 yesterday from Automated. Looks awesome and played great right out of the box. Ordered it about two and a half weeks ago. Didn't have the opportunity to upgrade to radicals

Well.... Pin U jsut pissed everyone off. Got mine 2 days ago. Works perfect too. Gm is a trip. Very very different than say a twd or got or Woz. It's an immersing style of gm. It already has a lot going on and I think as the code advances there will be More with each mode. I'm really liking it. Glad I bought. But I can see how it may not be for everyone.
Some only want the adrenaline rush style.

I'm installing them once I find them. There was a guy at a bar on FB that has them on his. I'm waiting for him to tell me.

Hi Skyemont. Any issues at all with the game? Wondering if they changed the left wire form as well to solve the ball falling off issues. How about a review of the game? Not sure when mine is coming but I'm hoping everything gets worked out before mine ships.

I, too, need to hook up my sub (NHT) to the hobbit. There must be some body that can help. Maybe Lorenzo at [email protected] can assist?

Pinballsidemirrors.com told me to just order the WOZ mirrors and they will fit TH! Mine are waiting in the basement!!!

Thanks you..

Has anybody hooked up a subwoofer to TH? If so, how?

It can be done and it sounds awesome. Speaker wire and alligator clips. I do the same thing on my Stern pins.

What do you do? Tap into the positive and negative terminals of the cabinet subwoofer.

I'm just finding out the jack in the back was eliminated... I'll have Mark formulate a response on what to do and not to do for hooking up a sub.
Thanks,
Lorenzo

Lorenzo,
Thanks for your immediate response and attention!

Exactly. Each terminal on the subject is clearly marked with a + or -. I use alligator clips and clamp down each speaker wire end, then I run the wire through the back of the cabinet. No soldering required.

On WOZ, there was a 3.5mm port (J5) for the rear jack - does the Hobbit motherboard have this port?

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Hi Guys.

We were working on a kit for WOZ a while back. I posted the install manual on our web.
http://www.pinnovators.com/manuals/WOZ_SUB_CABLE_Installation_Manual_Ver1p1.pdf
I tapped the sub speaker because it gets muted when the system speakers are muted.
You can pick up the adapters at Monoprice or ebay.
Can anyone tell me if the Aux Out plate is still in the back of the machine?
I used a Monoprice 7241 RCA to 3.5mm adapter. You can run a 3.5MM cable from that to your sub with another adapter to convert it back to RCA depending on what your sub takes for an input.
One side of the speaker is grounded but to avoid any interference with the game electronics, you may want to use an audio isolation transformer.
Feel free to ask questions.
Thanks,
Mark

New high score. Also, played GB last night. It's nothing compared to The Hobbit.

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Ugh. My hobbit is supposedly 4 weeks out. Definitely looking forward to it.

Hole with a flat plate on the inside covering it.

LTG : )

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I think I am in the same boat with you Darin, but hopefully they have worked through some initial production issues.

Interesting ball hang.
The ball was fired onto the wireform via the dwarf drop when it reset, bounced off the glass and stayed put like perfect Tee shot to the green!
My game pitch is between 6.5 and 7 degrees. A higher pitch wont stop this one as its in the gully of the wireform unless its at 12-15 degrees.

I had the pitch steeper and the flippers ramped up but the ball would not stay on the wireforms consistantly during high inertia modes.

I think I'm getting this baby dialed in almost perfectly for me right now. My last good score was 864,000, mostly by completing the modes.

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Man, I'm really liking this game and I didn't think I would. I got it because there was a great opportunity and always wanted to own a JJP. Also, I was going to keep playing it for quite a while even if I felt forced to keep the game. However, I don't, it's really fun!

I just feel relaxed every single time I play it and in a good way. For some odd reason, it reminds me of the older games where I could hit shots and not freaking stress out. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of drains and misses down the middle. That being said, it's just really intriguing with the current code. Maybe this is just JJP since I did not own WOZ.

I got 4 ball multi-ball and that was pretty normal. Until I started hitting so many pop up trolls that the LED colors started changing. Say WHAT????? LOL Simply bad ass.

Either way, I am having a lot of fun with the game.

What was the date before?

Why such a delay? Did Jen tell you the reason??

My estimate was in May. I'm wondering if that is going to push everyone's order up another month or two.

Email and find out?

Any thoughts about flipper button protectors for TH?

Make your own with.... Cling Vinyl.

http://www.amazon.com/Grafix-9-Inch---12-Inch-Cling-6-Pack/dp/B002J6CO9I/ref=sr_1_1

No adhesive residue on your game if you take them off.

My game also had a May estimate that was pushed to June. Reason given was that games started shipping later than expected.

Order date 1/24/2014.

Eric

In the recent Stern pinball machines, there is 5v/12v lead in the lower right cabinet near the shooter rod allowing installation of Pinballlife's 8-way 5v/12v splitter board used for mod additions. Is there something comparable in TH?