One of the wires from the holder probably came off . Got a pic?

Do you have a meter? If so u need to test to see if the voltage is getting to the board first off.

Next step would be a robot arm, controlled by one of us, fixing your pin remotely.

Hope this helps:

1. Put the meter to 20 volt (turn knob left)
2. Switch meter to DC (button on the left should be UP)
3. Put red lead to red wire touching CPU board
4. Put black lead to black wire touching CPU board
5. Post results here

We all gotta start somewhere which is why I help as many people as possible bc this place taught me alot .Im glad your trying to learn bc its very important if your gonna own pins lol.

This

Do you have a diode or just a plain wire jumper in your spare slot on your battery holder?

Looks like a wire to me. If it would be a diode, be sure its mounted in the right direction, else it would block current?

Im no expert but without a diode in the spare slot the game will charge the batteries and kill them (or worse). Vid1900 and many others have helpful threads on how to do it correctly

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Is there a diode in the original battery holder as well?

If the CPU-board is original (besides the remote battery holder) it won't charge the batteries because D2 blocks from charging.

The diode is so batteries don't explode if the game tries to charge them. Getaway is a WPC game that used non-rechargeable batteries so your jumper wire there is fine. Replacing the battery holder is certainly possible, but get an idea of where the actual problem is before replacing stuff.

Another test you can do is set your multimeter for continuity (the diode and wave symbols). If you touch the two leads together, you should get a beep to show there's continuity. Test continuity on each end of the red and black wires from the board to the battery holder. I've had broken splices under shrink tubing before.

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The jumper just turns your 4-battery holder into a 3-battery holder. People use the 4-battery holders in case they need to use a diode since it's easy to add one into that 4th spot.

Well you need the jumper wire in the sense that your batteries wouldn't be connected to the board without it on your particular one. But you'd be fine with a 3 battery holder instead. I think this was the cheapest one we found a few months ago http://www.taydaelectronics.com/aa-battery-holder-5.html

I am no expert in board issues but I do believe that your multimeter is not turned on.

Did you have it set to DC volts batteries are always DC, never AC.

Continuity has absolutely nothing to do with AC versus DC voltage.

You said:

If you didn't have the meter set for DC it will measure 0 even if there is 1000VDC (assuming the DC is clean). Make sure the meter is set to DC (it looks like it's set to AC in the picture but I can't tell for sure), 20 Volts and measure each battery (should be >1.5VDC) and then at the 9 volt style connector (should be ~ 4.5 - 5.1 VDC), then at the point where the wires connect to the board.

Where did you test the battery? Pic please.

Then there is a break some where, which is your problem. Look under the heat shrink.

Your meter looks to be set correctly to read voltage needed. Note that the voltage setting has both a straight and wavy line? This signifies dc or ac which is controlled by he push button on the left side.

One way to tell if you are correctly reading dc would be to test a known good battery with your settings. Pull a AA for your tv remote and you should get 1.5 volts.

The 2, 20, 200 etc. are for setting scaling.

May I suggest reviewing YouTube videos of how to operate a DMM?
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Look at it this way. Cut open a 3 cell flashlight. If you put the negative (black) meter lead on the spring at the butt and put the positive (red) lead on the pos terminal of that end battery you will read 1.5VDC. Now move to the pos of the next battery. You will read 3VDC. Now move to the pos of the 3rd battery. You will read 4.5VDC. Now move to the switch. You will still read 4.5VDC. Now, with the switch off, move to the other side of the switch. You will read 0VDC. There's the break in the chain. Now turn the switch on and you get 4.5VDC on the switch. Move to the bulb and you get 4.5VDC. Move to the other side of the bulb and you get 0VDC because both meter leads are on the negative wire. Forget about all the beep testing and continuity. You are looking for voltage and where the break in the chain is. The 2,20,200 on the meter is the maximum you expect to see on the circuit. Make sure AC/DC is switched correctly. Batteries will always be DC. Other circuits can be AC or DC. Look in the manual to see what spec is for the circuit you are working on.

Here's a few more scenarios. Put a piece of paper between the spring and the 1st battery. Now do the test above. You get 0VDC, when you know the battery is 1.5. Now you know there's a break on the ground side. Now take the paper out and put it between the 2nd and 3rd battery. Now test. 1.5, 3, 0. So, you know the break is between the 2nd and 3rd battery. Starting to make sense now?