So ive finally decided to start the playfield swap on my Getaway. Its my first full swap so im going to take my time and try not to f@#k it up ! lol This is the last thing my Getaway needs after already doing pretty much a full restore on it less than a year ago. Here is the link to that if you care to see. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-cabinet-restoration.
Im approching this a little differently than a lot of others do. I have the new playfield on a rotisserie but not the original just yet. It will be going onto a second rotisserie once i get to a certain point. ATM, i m just slowly swapping out parts top and bottom that can easily be removed and reinstalled like posts, most mechs,lightboards, etc. For the mechs i am just cutting the wires after labelling them before moving to the new playfield. Slow but sure. And away i go....

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I knew you would be here !

Thats hurts buddy ! That was a long time ago !!! lol Hope Ive learned from that experience !

I was under the weather for a few days but finally got back at this yesterday. Slowly getting things moved over. Here are a few photos of my progress. IMG_20180305_175744 (resized).jpg
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After closl;ey looking at the original wood rails i decided to make new ones out of oak as the originals are just pine wrapped in that crappy fake oak vinyl and they are pretty beat up. I have cut the new ones but still need to remove the old ones in order to mark and drill the holes before painting and clearing. I dont need to do the small rail by the shooter lane as i already made a new one for that a while back.
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Things are going pretty well. Been documenting a lot as i go by taking a ton of photos and taping notes to all the components and wires for reassembly.
Can anyone tell me why they used these hex nuts over top of the t-nuts ? Is it just to prevent the t-nut from falling out if it ever loosens up ? (photo below).
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Your all heart !!

Thanks Grumpy. Means a lot coming from you.

Thanks Cosmo. Been closely watching your Fishtales restore. Looking awesome !!!

Just got home from working a 14 hr day so im bagged and not going to do anything tonight but thought id touch base.

Havent quite got that far yet but its just a matter of taking your time with marking everything and not taking shortcuts. The wires i have cut so far from the mechs have been labelled and i also cut the wires about a quarter inch from the lugs instead of just desoldering. That way with the labeling and the wires showing, I shouldnt have any problems . I want to remove all the old solder from the various lugs anyway and start fresh.

I inspected all boards for any bad solder joints and cracks and everything seems very solid. Shpould i resolder all the joints just too make sure ? I can still easily do that at this point.

What coils are supposed to be used for the main coils ? 11629s or 11630s ? I have 11630s on all three flippers but a fellow pinsider says i should have 29s and that thats what his manual states but i just check my manual and it calls for 30s on all 3.

I'm pretty sure the upper flipper should be the 30 . 29s would be too powerful for an upper flipper but now starting to wonder if my manual is wrong and I should have 29s for the lower flippers. Looks like 30s we're generally used for system 11 but the 29s we're used on WPC but there seems to be conflicting opinions.

Well its been a while since i have posted. Got really busy at work and had some personal stuff i needed to deal with. I finally ended up with a free weekend and got a lot of the swap done. I did end up picking up new FL-11629 coils for the lower flippers.From my research it looks like the early runs like mine had FL-11630s at all three flippers but they changed the lowers later in production. I guess this is why my manual showed FL-11630s for the lowers yet other manuals call for the 29s. Hoping the extra power will enhance the game.
Im suprised at how well this is going. I was a little intimidated when i started but no real hiccups yet.
Some dissassembly shots. May not be in any real order as i took a shit ton of photos ! lol

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Removed the back wall and repaired the cracks and repainted. Also finished up the new rails. They turned out really nice. Used solid oak, painted gloss black, and then gave them 3 coats of varathane diamond finish.
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I do have some divots in mine Grumpy. Most are pretty good but would like to fix a few. Do you add solder or do you just reflow ?

Made up a few sizes of these to polish all the locknuts. I dont have a tumbler atm. Worked well though.
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Sorry, not sure why my photos are not downloading properly. This is what i made.
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Also had to do some filing down on some of the holes as the clear made them too small. Not a big deal really.
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Also noticed that many of the dimples were not in the correct spot or were missing all together. Im sure this is common. Just had to take my time and refer back to the old playfield. I predrilled all the dimples before screwing anything into the new playfield.

Ok cool. Ill give it a shot.

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Didnt mean to post the last photo yet, but as you can see, I was a little leary about reaming out the dreaded pop bumber bolt holes. I seen a lot of posts where people had clearcoat chipping when doing theirs. I just used a regular drill bit and was very careful with the pressure. Really had no issues and the bolts sit nice and flush on the playfield.

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My helper Toby kept a close eye on me while i worked. He was almost never out of my site during this project.

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Thats what my wife always says. lol

Thanks Mr T . Its getting there. I actually have everything pretty much back together and in the cabinet. Will post more photos soon. Now its time to tweak all the small stuff.

Photos of the harness back on and everything pretty close to being done.
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A few shots of the pop bumpers all done and good to go.
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Used this chrome vinyl material i had laying around and flooded the inside of the rails under the side plastics. Should really help reflect more light from the bulbs onto the underside of the plastics.

The photos above were from the other day and I have since put the playfield into the cabinet. Hooked everything up and double checked my work as best i could and then fired it up. No smoke !! lol I do have a problem though. Supercharger is not working and a few small things to tweak that i can see so far. I did notice right away that Fuse F103 for the supercharger was blown but i didnt have any 3a slow blo fuses so i installed a 2.5a sb and it blew right away. Just picked up some 3a fuses today and going to put one in and see what happens. Not sure if it blew the 2nd time because it was underfused or if i have a short somewhere. Will post results in a bit.

Ok so i put it a new 3a slo blo fuse into F103 and fired it up. Blew right away. Checked J118 on the power board and J1 on the accelerator board and they are both connected and look good visually. Reseated both just to make sure. Both were 2 wire connections. Black and grey if i recall. Leds not working on the accelerator board.
Not sure if this could be related or even an issue but i did notice that led3 on the power driver board directly above R3 and R4 was not lit up when it looked like all the others on that board were.

Thanks Trueno, still a ways to go before she is working perfectly but im getting there.

So after looking through the manual, i decided to try pulling connectors j130 and j127 for the upper and lower divertors and j122 for solenoid 25, 26, 27 , put in a new fuse and it still blew.

Yeah, cant wait to get the issues worked out and then do the final tweaking. Should play super fast!

I disconnected both molex connections under the playfield that go to the supercharger and to the divertors. Fuse did not blow. After reconnecting them one at a time , it is the smaller of the two molex connectors that is blowing the circuit. I think its for the divertors but not 100% yet. Visually inspected the wires at the supercharger and optos and nothing obvious. Going to remove the supercharger tomorrow morning and inspect the divertor coil and see if maybe some is shorted down there somewhere. Just thinking short because everything worked fine before the swap. Do you think I might be on the right track Grumpy ?

Does anyone know what circuits F103 protects other than the diverter and the supercharger coils ?

Ok, how do i do this ?

Am i looking for a short ? broken wire ? Bad ground ? Kinda lost now.

Thanks Grumpy, had company last night so i couldnt do any more but im going to get at it now. Im assuming to test i can just pull the connector and put the blak lead on the ground pin and the red lead on the grey/yellow pin with power on to test the voltage ?

Ok, so i did some testing. First i pulled the connector at J6 on the accelerator board and turned the machine on. Fuse did not blow. Pulled the connector from J1 on the accelerator board and tested it for power. Black lead of the dmd on the ground and red lead on the yellow/grey and no power. Reconnected this and went up and pulled the connector from j118 and tested the same way directly on the pins and got a reading of 14.9v. Does this make sense ? The only led on the power driver board that i could see was not lit was led 3.

All three are connected. Is a reading of 14.9v ok for J118 ?

Figured it out !! After a closer look, i realized that i had j116 connector in wrong. It was off by one pin so the left male pin on the board was not connected to anything and the right female in the molex housing was not connected to anything. connected it properly and the supercharger roared to life ! So glad i didnt fry anything. Cant believe i did that.
Thanks so much for getting me to where i needed to look Grumpy !!
Now to start tweaking and adjusting everything.