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(Topic ID: 211100)

The Getaway playfield swap


By SUPERBEE

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 60 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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    There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 2 years ago

    So ive finally decided to start the playfield swap on my Getaway. Its my first full swap so im going to take my time and try not to f@#k it up ! lol This is the last thing my Getaway needs after already doing pretty much a full restore on it less than a year ago. Here is the link to that if you care to see. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-cabinet-restoration.
    Im approching this a little differently than a lot of others do. I have the new playfield on a rotisserie but not the original just yet. It will be going onto a second rotisserie once i get to a certain point. ATM, i m just slowly swapping out parts top and bottom that can easily be removed and reinstalled like posts, most mechs,lightboards, etc. For the mechs i am just cutting the wires after labelling them before moving to the new playfield. Slow but sure. And away i go....

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    #2 2 years ago

    Looks good. Such a shame when you finish it you will be selling it.

    #3 2 years ago
    Quoted from Cobra:

    Looks good. Such a shame when you finish it you will be selling it.

    I knew you would be here !

    #4 2 years ago

    Ya I will come hand you beer from the fridge so that you do not need to step away from the playfield.

    #5 2 years ago

    Do you remember which way the coil lugs point under the apron?

    #6 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Do you remember which way the coil lugs point under the apron?

    Thats hurts buddy ! That was a long time ago !!! lol Hope Ive learned from that experience !

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Ive learned from that experience !

    I know you have. I'm sure you will knock this out of the park! Just funning ya.

    #8 2 years ago

    Following...that cabinet sure turned out nice!

    #9 2 years ago

    I was under the weather for a few days but finally got back at this yesterday. Slowly getting things moved over. Here are a few photos of my progress. IMG_20180305_175744 (resized).jpg
    IMG_20180305_175823 (resized).jpg
    After closl;ey looking at the original wood rails i decided to make new ones out of oak as the originals are just pine wrapped in that crappy fake oak vinyl and they are pretty beat up. I have cut the new ones but still need to remove the old ones in order to mark and drill the holes before painting and clearing. I dont need to do the small rail by the shooter lane as i already made a new one for that a while back.
    IMG_20180302_233630 (resized).jpg
    IMG_20180303_130853 (resized).jpg

    Things are going pretty well. Been documenting a lot as i go by taking a ton of photos and taping notes to all the components and wires for reassembly.
    Can anyone tell me why they used these hex nuts over top of the t-nuts ? Is it just to prevent the t-nut from falling out if it ever loosens up ? (photo below).
    IMG_20180302_220555 (resized).jpg

    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from Cobra:

    Ya I will come hand you beer from the fridge so that you do not need to step away from the playfield.

    Your all heart !!

    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    I'm sure you will knock this out of the park! Just funning ya.

    Thanks Grumpy. Means a lot coming from you.

    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    Following...that cabinet sure turned out nice!

    Thanks Cosmo. Been closely watching your Fishtales restore. Looking awesome !!!

    #11 2 years ago

    Looks good.

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Is it just to prevent the t-nut from falling out if it ever loosens up ? (photo below).

    Yep.

    #13 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Can anyone tell me why they used these hex nuts over top of the t-nuts ? Is it just to prevent the t-nut from falling out if it ever loosens up ? (photo below).

    That's awesome design! I hate when t-nuts fall out. Real PITA to replace.

    How terrifying is it to cut away the harness? That's the part I'm least looking forward to on my PF swap. Well, second least. Most least is having to put it back on again at the new PF.

    #14 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Slowly getting things moved over.

    Did you touch up the solder on the lamp boards in the first rebuild or are you doing it this time?

    #15 2 years ago

    Just got home from working a 14 hr day so im bagged and not going to do anything tonight but thought id touch base.

    Quoted from EvanDickson:

    How terrifying is it to cut away the harness? That's the part I'm least looking forward to on my PF swap. Well, second least. Most least is having to put it back on again at the new PF.

    Havent quite got that far yet but its just a matter of taking your time with marking everything and not taking shortcuts. The wires i have cut so far from the mechs have been labelled and i also cut the wires about a quarter inch from the lugs instead of just desoldering. That way with the labeling and the wires showing, I shouldnt have any problems . I want to remove all the old solder from the various lugs anyway and start fresh.

    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Did you touch up the solder on the lamp boards in the first rebuild or are you doing it this time?

    I inspected all boards for any bad solder joints and cracks and everything seems very solid. Shpould i resolder all the joints just too make sure ? I can still easily do that at this point.

    #16 2 years ago

    What coils are supposed to be used for the main coils ? 11629s or 11630s ? I have 11630s on all three flippers but a fellow pinsider says i should have 29s and that thats what his manual states but i just check my manual and it calls for 30s on all 3.

    #17 2 years ago

    I'm not at home right now, but I feel like the upper flipper is different. 11629 maybe?

    #18 2 years ago

    I'm pretty sure the upper flipper should be the 30 . 29s would be too powerful for an upper flipper but now starting to wonder if my manual is wrong and I should have 29s for the lower flippers. Looks like 30s we're generally used for system 11 but the 29s we're used on WPC but there seems to be conflicting opinions.

    #19 2 years ago

    Did you notice any divots like this? This is easy to fix with a soldering iron.

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    #20 2 years ago

    I am reading the electronic manual from IPDB.

    Page 2-18 says:

    A-15205-L-1 (lower right <DumbAss thinks this should be lower left although it doesn't matter> has FL-11629
    A-15205-R-2 (lower left <DumbAss thinks this should be lower right although it doesn't matter> has FL-11629
    A-15205-R (upper right) has FL-11630

    Page 3-6 says:

    Lower Right = FL-11629
    Lower Left = FL-11629
    Upper Right = FL-11630

    1 week later
    #21 2 years ago

    Well its been a while since i have posted. Got really busy at work and had some personal stuff i needed to deal with. I finally ended up with a free weekend and got a lot of the swap done. I did end up picking up new FL-11629 coils for the lower flippers.From my research it looks like the early runs like mine had FL-11630s at all three flippers but they changed the lowers later in production. I guess this is why my manual showed FL-11630s for the lowers yet other manuals call for the 29s. Hoping the extra power will enhance the game.
    Im suprised at how well this is going. I was a little intimidated when i started but no real hiccups yet.
    Some dissassembly shots. May not be in any real order as i took a shit ton of photos ! lol

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    #22 2 years ago

    Removed the back wall and repaired the cracks and repainted. Also finished up the new rails. They turned out really nice. Used solid oak, painted gloss black, and then gave them 3 coats of varathane diamond finish.
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    #23 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Did you notice any divots like this? This is easy to fix with a soldering iron.

    I do have some divots in mine Grumpy. Most are pretty good but would like to fix a few. Do you add solder or do you just reflow ?

    #24 2 years ago

    Made up a few sizes of these to polish all the locknuts. I dont have a tumbler atm. Worked well though.
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    #25 2 years ago

    Sorry, not sure why my photos are not downloading properly. This is what i made.
    IMG_20180307_171404 (resized).jpg

    Also had to do some filing down on some of the holes as the clear made them too small. Not a big deal really.
    IMG_20180309_204031 (resized).jpg

    Also noticed that many of the dimples were not in the correct spot or were missing all together. Im sure this is common. Just had to take my time and refer back to the old playfield. I predrilled all the dimples before screwing anything into the new playfield.

    #26 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    I do have some divots in mine Grumpy. Most are pretty good but would like to fix a few. Do you add solder or do you just reflow ?

    I add just a bit when I touch my iron to the trace and move across the the arc from one side to the other.

    #27 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    I add just a bit when I touch my iron to the trace and move across the the arc from one side to the other.

    Ok cool. Ill give it a shot.

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    #28 2 years ago

    Didnt mean to post the last photo yet, but as you can see, I was a little leary about reaming out the dreaded pop bumber bolt holes. I seen a lot of posts where people had clearcoat chipping when doing theirs. I just used a regular drill bit and was very careful with the pressure. Really had no issues and the bolts sit nice and flush on the playfield.

    #29 2 years ago

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    #30 2 years ago

    My helper Toby kept a close eye on me while i worked. He was almost never out of my site during this project.

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    #31 2 years ago

    Nice progress!

    #32 2 years ago

    Wow SB, quite the undertaking. Going to look awesome when you get it done!

    #33 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    My helper Toby kept a close eye on me while i worked.

    Somebody needs to!

    #34 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Somebody needs to!

    Thats what my wife always says. lol

    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Wow SB, quite the undertaking. Going to look awesome when you get it done!

    Thanks Mr T . Its getting there. I actually have everything pretty much back together and in the cabinet. Will post more photos soon. Now its time to tweak all the small stuff.

    #35 2 years ago

    Photos of the harness back on and everything pretty close to being done.
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    A few shots of the pop bumpers all done and good to go.
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    #36 2 years ago

    Used this chrome vinyl material i had laying around and flooded the inside of the rails under the side plastics. Should really help reflect more light from the bulbs onto the underside of the plastics.

    #37 2 years ago

    The photos above were from the other day and I have since put the playfield into the cabinet. Hooked everything up and double checked my work as best i could and then fired it up. No smoke !! lol I do have a problem though. Supercharger is not working and a few small things to tweak that i can see so far. I did notice right away that Fuse F103 for the supercharger was blown but i didnt have any 3a slow blo fuses so i installed a 2.5a sb and it blew right away. Just picked up some 3a fuses today and going to put one in and see what happens. Not sure if it blew the 2nd time because it was underfused or if i have a short somewhere. Will post results in a bit.

    #38 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Photos of the harness back on and everything pretty close to being done.

    A few shots of the pop bumpers all done and good to go.

    Nice work! I dream what it would be like to not get filthy dirty hands every time I did work under the playfield.

    #39 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    I did notice right away that Fuse F103 for the supercharger was blown but i

    Make sure you that you have 1J118 connected on the power driver board. Then make sure that the other end is connected to the accelerator board. I think its J1. Turn on the power and see if the led on the accelerator board lights up.

    #40 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Make sure you that you have 1J118 connected on the power driver board. Then make sure that the other end is connected to the accelerator board. I think its J1. Turn on the power and see if the led on the accelerator board lights up.

    Ok so i put it a new 3a slo blo fuse into F103 and fired it up. Blew right away. Checked J118 on the power board and J1 on the accelerator board and they are both connected and look good visually. Reseated both just to make sure. Both were 2 wire connections. Black and grey if i recall. Leds not working on the accelerator board.
    Not sure if this could be related or even an issue but i did notice that led3 on the power driver board directly above R3 and R4 was not lit up when it looked like all the others on that board were.

    #41 2 years ago

    LookiNg seriously awesome!

    Big guns™™!!

    #42 2 years ago
    Quoted from trueno92:

    LookiNg seriously awesome!

    Big guns™™!!

    Thanks Trueno, still a ways to go before she is working perfectly but im getting there.

    #43 2 years ago

    So after looking through the manual, i decided to try pulling connectors j130 and j127 for the upper and lower divertors and j122 for solenoid 25, 26, 27 , put in a new fuse and it still blew.

    #44 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Nice work! I dream what it would be like to not get filthy dirty hands every time I did work under the playfield.

    Yeah, cant wait to get the issues worked out and then do the final tweaking. Should play super fast!

    #45 2 years ago

    I disconnected both molex connections under the playfield that go to the supercharger and to the divertors. Fuse did not blow. After reconnecting them one at a time , it is the smaller of the two molex connectors that is blowing the circuit. I think its for the divertors but not 100% yet. Visually inspected the wires at the supercharger and optos and nothing obvious. Going to remove the supercharger tomorrow morning and inspect the divertor coil and see if maybe some is shorted down there somewhere. Just thinking short because everything worked fine before the swap. Do you think I might be on the right track Grumpy ?

    #46 2 years ago

    Does anyone know what circuits F103 protects other than the diverter and the supercharger coils ?

    #47 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Does anyone know what circuits F103 protects other than the diverter and the supercharger coils ?

    The schematic shows F103 protects "continuous duty" J107-1. That's the VIO-GRN wire. The solenoid wiring diagram shows it's only connected to the Accelerator Board.

    #48 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Does anyone know what circuits F103 protects

    This fuse is only for the 3 magnets in the super charger. The diverter fuse is F-105. Do not remove the super charger as this is not the problem.

    Quoted from SUPERBEE:Checked J118 on the power board and J1 on the accelerator board and they are both connected and look good visually. Reseated both just to make sure. Both were 2 wire connections. Black and grey if i recall. Leds not working on the accelerator board.

    This is the problem, you have to have 12 volts on the accel. board before a ball goes into the supercharger, no 12 volts no optos. With no optos, all 3 magnets will turn on instantly blow the fuse. Leave J6 off of the accell. until you get the led #1 to light indicating the board has 12 volts.

    #49 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Leave J6 off of the accell. until you get the led #1 to light indicating the board has 12 volts.

    Ok, how do i do this ?

    #50 2 years ago

    Am i looking for a short ? broken wire ? Bad ground ? Kinda lost now.

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