I just picked up one of these machines this past week. Depending on where these rivets are located, you might be able to use very small screws in place of them. If they are on the face of the diverter (like where the ball might ride against, or where a protruding nut or screw head would hammper the diverter opening and closeing), you'll have not other option but to re-attatch the peice useing rivets again. I'll look at mine tonight and investigate to see which ones you might be referring to. If they do need to be riveted again, its just a matter of useing the right size rivet and having a rivet gun. Its a pretty easy process.

And try and find all of the broken peices of rivets, they could potentially get stuck somewhere in the playfield or fall down into the lower cabinet and cause other problems for you.

Alright, upon inspection it looks like the rivets are counter sunk. It might be possible to get a flat head screw to sit below the face of the diverter. I would use a stainless steal allen key drive screw, and a nylock nut or some other type of locking nut. It looks like a nut sticking out the back of the pivoting post which the scoop is mounted to, wouldn't cause any issues but youd have to make sure. It really should be riveted back on but if you don't have or want to buy a rivet gun, it might be worth the trouble just to see if you could get a small screw to work. Again though I would make sure the head of the screw sits below the face of the scoop.

I read about someone have screws in their diverter ramp and the screws slowed the ball down through the S/C. Hopefully you can find something that will work but if not, I had my buddy weld mine and bought a spare from Austrailia. The welded one was supposed to be a temporary fix, but he did a good job and its been holding for a hundred plays or so.

Altan explains his issue about the screws slowing down the ball here:

http://www.aaarpinball.com/Getaway/getaway.htm

Hey thanks for the link, it shows some good bits of info here and there.

Yea thats why i suggested only to use screws if you can set the heads below the face of the scoop. I wouldnt suggest leaving them stick out like that for obvious reasons.

When me and Shanetastic was Shop'n out my HS2 , I noticed 1 of the 2 Diverter Rivot's was loose on the diverter , We drilled it out and I Do have a Rivot gun , We added another Rivot . Wha Laa !!

While you have the Super Charger off , Replace the coil sleve and Polish the shaft for the diverter mechanism .. And Polish the S.Charger w/ Mothers ,, use some Old rags .. And watch the Black mess appear .

HS2_Shop_d_-_No_Led_s_019.JPG HS2_Shop_d_-_No_Led_s_020.JPG HS2_Shop_d_-_No_Led_s_010.JPG

Nice. I have yet to get to some of the coils in mine. The previous ower rebuilt all flippers and slings shots so they are ok. Everything is working fine but im sure those other coils are dirty. Once in a great while my diverter is late on switching back so the ball will fall onto the playfield or back down the ramp, its rare though.

I think the playfield could also use a good waxing. I have come chipping around the inserts which looks to me like the clear coat over the inserts is chipping. I plan to get to that when im ready to shut it down for a week or so. My plan is to use minwax, i know its soft but given the areas are so small it shouldnt be an issue. I dont like the suggested idea of useing super glue.

looks like you could use a tapered screw head, so it sits flush with the diverter.

Go to Lowes and get you a Rivot Gun and an assortment of rivots and Do the Job rite ..

Screw the Screws .. That's what i call Afro Engineering

Thats why i suggested a flat head screw.

I dont think its a bad idea if i would except a screw, it will hold up a lot longer than a rivot would.

Today im repairing my DMD, i have the very bottom row out which has been repaired successfully, now i have the very right three colums to do. Oh boy is it an intricate job.., im doing good so far though.

B_R has great advice about the rivet gun and the cleaning the S/C while apart is a great thing since you have to take it all out anyway.

No dice on the DMD repair, i had all damaged lines repaired but lost the connection at some point. I think maybe if i had a better "windshield repair kit" it might have worked out. The only one i could find was had the activator chemical on a pad which was just impractical. Im going to try what i think is a more sure way of fixing it by drilling into the side to get to the trace.

Anyways, hopefully this guy got his diverter fixed and running.