Working on a Getaway Hi speed 2. This game has/had multiple issues so a little background first. The problem started with Check fuse F114 & F115 message. Fuses were fine but no 12 volts at Q2 so I replaced that and game came back up. I played about 5 or 6 games on it over period of 2 days then when I test played it one last time before declaring it fixed it reset during first ball and gave me slam tilt switch closed message. I have disconnected all 3 tilt switches in order to eliminate them as the problem. Now I have message "ground short row 1 stuck closed" Looking at the switch matrix for that row I see Slam tilt, Left sling, Top yellow, Top green, Top jet, Top loop, opto 1 I am still digging but also looking for advice on this one. One last thing to note this game has been heavily routed and someone has installed a separate independent power supply in the back of the cabinet with an electrical cord tied into the 5 volts.

Also forgot to mention I have never been able to access the diagnostics and adjustment menu. The buttons do nothing but appear to be wired up.

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Thank you KJL for the input. I have tried a new ULN2803A chip at U20 but it didn't help. I just now tried disconnecting all of the connectors at bottom of MPU board J205, J206, J208, and J212 and when I turn the game back on it still has the same error message. Can I now confirm that the problem lies on the board itself?

Thanks Tom. Voltage measurements taken from the test points as follows 5v = 4.965, 12vu = 14.56, 18v = 15.37, 20v = 21.27, and 12vr = 4.5
so the 18v is a little bit low and the 12vr is way low if I measured that one correctly. As far as the BR's go I did check them all on Monday when I replaced Q2 but who knows could still have an issue with one?

C2 looks alright, but I will post a picture of it later today when I can.

Isn't LM7812 voltage regulator on the board in position Q2 ? if so I replaced that previously and had the game playing (see original post). perhaps it has failed again caused by something else that I have not discovered as yet?

Ok so after checking for voltage at Q2 (LM7812) the ground short row 1 message disappeared and Check fuse F114 and F115 came back. This morning I replaced Q2 for the second time and game is back up and playing again. Can anyone advise on what could have caused it to fail again so soon? this is a location game and I don't want to put it back on the floor until I am sure its gonna hold up for awhile.

Update: I put game in switch test to check something else and noticed that both of the yellow stand up targets give messages of ground short row when triggered in test. The top right side Yellow says ground short row 1 , white brown (wire) and the Yellow target lower on the playfield in center says ground short row 2 white red.

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Still digging on this one & I have discovered a few more things. Its not just the 2 yellow stand up targets that give a ground row short message. All 3 of the yellow targets do that & in addition I noticed that All 3 of the Right side bank white stand ups #44,#45,and #46 do it as well. They individually reference a different row on each one. So yellow top right target registers ground short row #1, center yellow target row #2, and bottom left yellow row #3 and with Right side bank switch#44 same message except it is for row #4 , #45 = row #5 and #46 = row#6. Also noticed in switch test that if you hold the outhole switch closed and then close any one of the other 3 trough switches Left, Center, or Right the switch test shows "Opto made loop" which is the last opto on the super charger loop ramp. In addition to all of that I noticed that the outhole switch does NOT have a diode attached and I think it is supposed to have one. All of the other trough switch's have them. Could a missing diode cause All of this?? I have traced wires and connections all over and over again I have been unable to find any shorts or broken wires/ connections touching etc... (yet) Lastly I am posting a couple pictures one is of the Outhole switch , the other is of the DMD in switch test showing one lone switch closed on the left side of the screen that I have been unable to identify yet. Can anyone tell me what that switch is so that I can check it? Thanks much

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Thanks for that! I can at least rule out chasing that down now.

Any chance I could get a good picture of the outhole switch on your game?

I just looked at Addams family , Creech, and Dr. who all similar system games with the same trough setup and they all have the diode.

Thank you for the pictures Archon9000. Looks to me like someone replaced the diode on this game with a piece of purple wire

Removed the purple wire and added the diode to the outhole switch and that stopped it from reading "opto made loop" in switch test with the outhole and trough switches closed but I still have all of the ground row short error messages when testing all of those stand up targets.

Well I tried that but nope. I just replaced U20 with a new ULN2803A chip this morning and the problem persists.

After reading some older threads on the subject of multiple rows having ground row shorts at the same time I see opto's mentioned. How can these get grounded without being able to see it touching something? This game has at least 5 opto's in it.

Thank you Roamin that schematic explanation is quite helpful & appreciated. I will try & answer your questions in order Yes I can get into the menu & diagnostics now. I wasn't able to when at first it just had the check F114 & F115 message. After replacing Q2 the first time I just played a few games and it went down again with a slam tilt stuck closed message & I was locked out of the menu again at that point. Replacing Q2 for the second time I went straight into the menu to check some things before playing it much & found all these ground short row messages. I just now went back & checked the voltages again. Measurements as follows: TP1 12VU = 14.68, TP2 5v = 4.96, TP3 12VR = 11.79, TP6 50V = 73.2, TP7 20V = 21.65, TP8 18V = 16.02 The computer power supply appears to be only hooked up to the 5 volts via the brown electrical cord to pins#4 and #5 at J210 on the MPU.
I measure 4.96 there at the connection.

Where to go & how to proceed from here? For starters IF I can get a New power driver board or have this one repaired properly then is it just trying to remove the hack power supply and its wire connections and putting it back the way it was Factory the best I can? I tried taking voltage readings from the 15 pin connector that comes off of the transformer but they kept fluctuating on the fluke meter and nothing was consistent.OVERWHELMED at the MOMENT on this one but not giving up.

That's a start & I agree. Will be traveling down that road the next time I am in front of this jewel starting on Monday morning

Getting back to this one. This morning I removed the computer power supply from the game and repaired the wire connections at the transformer connector where they had spliced in back to the way they were originally. However there is one wire nut there connecting a grey wire to a black red one that I am unsure about. I also removed the wire nut and splice at J210 on the MPU to pins 4 and 5 on that connector. Turned game on and the DMD is blank, No G.I , No control lamps. Like its dead but I do have some LED test lights lit. I rechecked all the voltages at the test points as follows. TP1 12vu = 15.02, TP2 5v = 4.963, TP3 12vr =12.04, TP6 50v = 74.5, TP7 20v = 22.03, TP8 18v = 18.31 I had originally thought that all that power supply was doing was providing 5v because that's what I measured at the wire nut splice on J210 (grey wires) and that's the only place it was hooked in besides at the transformer.

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In an attempt to get this thing back in the lineup for the operator who owns this game I reconnected things back the way they were. It wasn't until then that I noticed the metal ramp and all of the wire forms on this game were electrically energized. It shocked me when I touched the side rails with one hand and the ramp with the other. I measured approximately 72 volts with my meter. Then after looking around for awhile I discovered that the diverter coil that is mounted under the left side of the ramp had rotated and one of the lugs was touching the ramp. After fixing that and checking to make sure the ramp wasn't energized any more I rechecked those switches and they still have the ground short errors on them. I then replaced the ULN2803A chip with a new one and retested but the switch errors are still present. Question is there something else that could have likely gotten fried from the coil grounding on the ramp?