I use the Treasure Cove kit. If you buff your Mylar hard out, it shines up so much you wouldn't bother removing it ....

Dave.

Use Servisol label remover from Maplin.

Brake cleaner all the way! No need to let it sit for 3 minutes, 1 minute or even 30 seconds... about 8-10 seconds and a plastic razor blade... done in 20 seconds!

And there will still be paint left on the playfield?

Brake cleaner is great for removing adhesive… but it does pull up some paint. I recently used it to remove some decal adhesive from my skeeball machine when I was replacing the decal. The rag had some yellow paint (not much) on it when I was done, a big reason I would be nervous putting it on a playfield. But I have had great sucess with Rustoleum's Adhesive Remover pulling side art adhesive from arcade machines. It works MUCH better than Goo Gone and didn't hurt the paint on the cab at all. It only took about 15-20 minutes to remove all the adhesive from the side of a cab. I'll be pulling the mylar off my Grand Lizard next week and might try the Rustoleum, but was leaning towards the Goo Gone since I had read of so many people using it. The Rustoleum uses the same active ingredient as Goo Gone, but has a different concentration. Anyone here ever try it before?

I have used it on over twenty WPC 90's and new Stern play fields. It hurts nothing! It works great and does not remove paint or any of the factory clear. I can't confirm the older stuff but it works great on any of the newer play fields.

Another option in the UK is 'Sticky Stuff Remover' from B&Q

Well, I tackled my playfeild today. I actually ended up using brake cleaner to remove the adhesive. It works much faster than Goo Gone or Rustoleum's Adhesive Remover. One thing to be careful with though, it will exacerbate paint removal around damaged paint areas. I went with the brake cleaner because it was much easier to just wipe up the adhesive with paper towels. Using a plastic scrapper and the Rustoleum was horrible. Thanks for the tip!

Brake cleaner is awesome. I know many will think its crazy, dangerous, risky... its not. Use a little common sense when using it but for the most part I've used it safely and successfully many times on WPC 90's playfields as well as the newer Sterns. Remove your mylar with the freeze spray method and use brake cleaner and a plastic razor blade to remove the old glue. Do a playfield in 6 minutes...

I use Naptha and a magic eraser on all DE titles and Diamond Coated WPC playfields and the adhesive comes off in under 10 minutes.

This can take 10 times longer on non-diamondcoated Bally and Williams titles. For those I use goo gone on a paper towel and let it sit over the glue for 30 minutes before scraping it away with a plastic razor blade. Do not try this with Naptha, I did it with Naptha on a Bride of Pinbot and it fogged up a handful of the inserts. I'll have to try the flour trick on the next older non-DE title.

Just got done using this trick on my t2. I didn't use any goof off or goo gone or anything like that. I let it soak in alcohol then put the flour on then used more alcohol and a magic eraser and it came off in under ten minutes. Much better then using the goof off and scrubbing for an hour.

*edit* Nevermind, you already said you didn't know how it would work on older stuff.

great trick,thanks for the info

I will chime in and say that this worked great for me also. I used it in a black knight with after factory mylar. I used the Goo Gone spray gel. Like OP said, sprinkle flour first, then hit with Goo gone and let sit, I find letting it sit for longer than three minutes helps. Then the real key is to put more dry flour in a little mound just along the edge of the sticky area and push that flour into it like a bulldozer. Got the playfield done in about an hour that way.

I have a small mylar on my BR, So I wanted to test if this works. After spending days taking the mylar glue off my HS I had my doubts. But to my surprise 30 seconds after the frozen mylar was removed so was the glue do to this trick. Amazing is all I can say. But does it work on system 11s the same way. I have a WW with a mylar on it and I'm iching to remove it. Has anyone tried it on them

I tried the flour trick on a sys6 recently.

It still worked, but the glue was older, so it pilled up in little toothpick sized logs, rather than one nice roll.

I finished the little remaining glue with naphtha.

I did my Earthshaker this way too without much trouble. It was smaller logs too like vid1900 mentioned though, but still seemed to work well and cleanly.

Duplicate

Duplicate

Duplicate

Duplicate

Duplicate

Did this today on my WH2O in the pop area. Should I do the mylar in front of the sling shots? What about the upper playfield?

Also wondering how I can remove this hard line that was left behind after the mylar removal. Any suggestions?

2013-02-03_21-05-38_393.jpg 2013-02-03_21-06-08_148.jpg

The line should just be dirt and grime. Some novus should take it up.

I would put mylar back in the pop area, and in the upper PF area near the VUK (if you don't have a Cliffy there) and maybe where the ball drops onto the upper PF from the ball launch.

Plus a small circle where it pops out of the lost mine.

Of course, that is just me

Literally did the flour trick all today on my Funhouse. It's amazing and the game looks 1000 percent better. Also did the hair dryer trick on the inserts.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

I have a ww, im dieing to try this on it but I'm afraid because theres some planking, did your funhouse have any planking on it

What is planking? Sorry still not used to all of the terms

Were all WPC games after a certain date clear coated? I just got a WCS94 and in spot where the Mylar isn't, it looks like clear coat but I wanted to be sure.

Flour and goo gone works. I do feel that it really depends on the playfield. I tried this on a f-14 and worked well. I tried it on a Whirlwind and that pf must have sat in the sun as it was baked in and hard to get the glue off.

IMG_20140216_205908[1].jpg

Anyone have advice on how to clear the glue off the inserts? so far only scratching it off with my nail seems to work, but its not taking all of it off.

I noticed a lot of people trying this method have newer playfields and wanted to post how it went for an older playfield: 1979 Williams Time Warp

First off the flour/alcohol method in the video didn't bother the 35 year old mylar glue very much at all. I then tried the Goo Gone spray gel and that went much better. What I did exactly was put a small amount of flour in a cup and stuck my pointer finger in the cup and patted off the flour on the adhesive. Next I sprayed some of the goo gone spray gel into a shot glass and did the same technique of dipping and patting on top of the flour. After 4 minutes I came back and did the finger pat maneuver with the flour on top of the goo gone and from there I started to roll the crap out of it with my fingers. I still needed to do a good bit of rubbing but the adhesive came off relatively easily and the fresh playfield is exposed and clean.

I had to really (and I mean really) work at it on my F14 - so seems to be hit and miss. But it did work despite taking what seemed like forever.

Your F14 must be like my High Speed. Flour and alcohol did nothing. GooGone and flour was a little better but needed to soak in for about an hour. I mostly rubbed my fingers raw over several 1 hour sessions, I actually removed my finger prints on six fingers. It was brutal.

That being said I used the freeze method to get the Mylar off and that took less than 10 minutes but in reality did not disturb the adhesive at all.

Just finished using GooGone and flour on my Big Guns playfield. Worked very easily for the most part but it was brutal over the inserts. In total it took about 2.5 hours but i did it in several, shorter sessions.

I know this is an old topic but wanted to bump it. I snagged an F14 with some raised inserts and went to work on the Mylar. Removing went lightning fast - but the adhesive removal has been terrible. I stuck with goo gone - but the light layer of flour has made all the world of difference (seriously took an hour for eh results just in the kill area, with flour I got PF and all inserts from top of kill section to the end of the bonus lines, TOM, CAT, 1-6 arrows). This has made this project go from an absolute MFer to one that I'm really looking forward to playing.

Waxing like crazy and playing and waxing for in a HUO environment - I don't have the stones to try it as my first clearcoat since the paint loss was so minimal.

Unfortunately this trick didn't work anywhere nearly as easy as the OP and everyone else makes it sound. I am having to work hard with my fingers to swirl up "boogers" small sections at a time.

Try soaking paper towel in alcohol, letting it sit for a minute or two, and then rubbing that off.