I really didn’t know that you can make ramps! How, what materials, is it costly, what type of welds? Those look absolutely amazing compared to the plastic shit!
(Topic ID: 209985)
Kansas City, KS
Zartan https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Construction#Custom_Parts scroll down a little bit to see about making wireworms.
Quoted from Zartan:I really didn’t know that you can make ramps! How, what materials, is it costly, what type of welds? Those look absolutely amazing compared to the plastic shit!
Loganpinball.com. We started that business just over the demand for wireforms for mandalorian pros.
Its $50 an hour plus materials. Everything is Tig welded. I wont list Acdc mod for sale as it took 21 hours to make.It would cost over 2k. It all depends on the final costs. I have found anything over $350 and it is a hard sale. But, visually stainless really changes the vibe over plastic..
If Matt needs any help ramp or rail related I owe him for his tips he shared with my Discovery machine.
1F4973F0-9ACB-4346-A212-5C5D2CDEB90F (resized).jpegF99E010A-B5B4-47AB-9C84-A1D1F7C1CC3C (resized).jpegQuoted from Zartan:Wow! That’s crazy but absolutely awesome!
If you get good you should start making money replacing plastic ramp sets!
Hahaha I think Loganpinball has that market cornered
it’s fun messing around with the welder but time consuming .. at least for me.
Loganpinball — that is good to know about the 19mm socket and staggering. Funny I was looking around the garage for hard round objects and never thought of the socket sets. The rings are tricky too - seemed to spring back after wrapping a few - what do you wrap around to get the right size once they relax? Or do you have a way to wrap tightly around something where they won’t relax once you release pressure?
— sidetrack to 3D printing - I did a quick sizing test for a church to go over the right ‘groups’ ball lock area. I think it will work out.. it’s tight tho. Ready to start some detail.
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Kind of symmetrical with the opposite side, on accident. Don’t know if I love it but my alternative idea of a semi clear ice cave like in the movie (guided meditation) seems too jarring against everything else that’s going on.
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Love the cup holder. Is the cup in the game going to do anything? A flasher perhaps? Maybe you could have a weak flipper mode where you have to fuel up on caffeine by hitting the cup a few times
I’m glad pointing out the Starbucks cup thing inspired some more theme integration. Now about putting in the single frame of a naked dude randomly showing up while you play…
Yes, I didn’t realize Loganpinball was around! Nice guy for sure! I’ve joined his website now. Pretty cool stuff still newer in the home hobby but learning as I go.
Quoted from Mbecker:Hahaha I think Loganpinball has that market cornered it’s fun messing around with the welder but time consuming .. at least for me.
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Quoted from toyotaboy:if you leave that mini starbucks cup over that target, you should play a clip of a starbucks cup everytime you hit it.
Maybe if nothing else is going on, it could be a hurryup with a barista callout of a complex coffee order then a characters name (occasionally misspelled/pronounced)
"Quad Venti White Mocha Frappuccino for Tayler"
Quoted from Mbecker:Hahaha I think Loganpinball has that market cornered it’s fun messing around with the welder but time consuming .. at least for me.
Loganpinball — that is good to know about the 19mm socket and staggering. Funny I was looking around the garage for hard round objects and never thought of the socket sets. The rings are tricky too - seemed to spring back after wrapping a few - what do you wrap around to get the right size once they relax? Or do you have a way to wrap tightly around something where they won’t relax once you release pressure?
— sidetrack to 3D printing - I did a quick sizing test for a church to go over the right ‘groups’ ball lock area. I think it will work out.. it’s tight tho. Ready to start some detail.
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Kind of symmetrical with the opposite side, on accident. Don’t know if I love it but my alternative idea of a semi clear ice cave like in the movie (guided meditation) seems too jarring against everything else that’s going on.
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I can post pictures if needed and will post sizes of dies.
All you need to do is find a long 1/2 drive socket that is smaller then the width you are trying to achieve. Place it in a vise and then vise grip a rod at the top of the socket. Then wrap the rod all the way down the socket by hand as tight as you can down to the lowest point you can get to. Then slowly let the pressure uncoil itself. It will snap like a whip, so do it slowly. The coiled rod will then look like a coil spring. After that I take it my bench cutter and cut the coil into equal rings. You will have a bunch. Once you have a cut ring you can measure the midpoint of the ring edgde to edge and see if you need to go bigger or smaller.
After you have the correct ring for your design you can do it one of two ways. Your lower rail can be welded to the bottom of the rings at your spacing. Looks better that way. Or you can weld your lower rail seperately then add the rings.
It is better making rings for rails. Once the lower rail is welded to the rings, you can mark the ring at the height desired for your upper rail. Weld the upper rail to the rings and when your done all you do is clip the upper ring off at upper rail. Then weld the clipped point. Mig welding is alot harder to do and clean up. It adds material to the rails and you have to clean it up more. With a tig welder you add no material, you are fusing the metal together. Looks way better..
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7BA36382-CA30-4858-BAD6-DBB53D58222D (resized).jpegQuoted from Loganpinball:I can post pictures if needed and will post sizes of dies.
All you need to do is find a long 1/2 drive socket that is smaller then the width you are trying to achieve. Place it in a vise and then vise grip a rod at the top of the socket. Then wrap the rod all the way down the socket by hand as tight as you can down to the lowest point you can get to. Then slowly let the pressure uncoil itself. It will snap like a whip, so do it slowly. The coiled rod will then look like a coil spring. After that I take it my bench cutter and cut the coil into equal rings. You will have a bunch. Once you have a cut ring you can measure the midpoint of the ring edgde to edge and see if you need to go bigger or smaller.
After you have the correct ring for your design you can do it one of two ways. Your lower rail can be welded to the bottom of the rings at your spacing. Looks better that way. Or you can weld your lower rail seperately then add the rings.
It is better making rings for rails. Once the lower rail is welded to the rings, you can mark the ring at the height desired for your upper rail. Weld the upper rail to the rings and when your done all you do is clip the upper ring off at upper rail. Then weld the clipped point. Mig welding is alot harder to do and clean up. It adds material to the rails and you have to clean it up more. With a tig welder you add no material, you are fusing the metal together. Looks way better..
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What do you use to weld?
Lincoln 220 Tig with 100% argon gas. Using Gold band lanthated tungsten rod (stainless steel requires this). Settings depend on grade of stainless. Stainless steel does not bend when overheated it just melts. Amp setting depends on your material, but it is pedaled output and it takes practice. But Tig welding produces the cleanest look. See picture. That is fused metal using Tig.
My last posts on welding here. Unless Matt needs it. I want to respect his topic of Fight Club.
89CE6A56-2914-4ABD-95CD-399CE58AC6FC (resized).jpegKind of my fault! I apologize fully! Been here almost 2 years and I still learn something new and pretty cool almost everyday! The fact that he built those ramps blew my mind!
Back to Fight Club!
Quoted from Loganpinball:Lincoln 220 Tig with 100% argon gas. Using Gold band lanthated tungsten rod (stainless steel requires this). Settings depend on grade of stainless. Stainless steel does not bend when overheated it just melts. Amp setting depends on your material, but it is pedaled output and it takes practice. But Tig welding produces the cleanest look. See picture. That is fused metal using Tig.
My last posts on welding here. Unless Matt needs it. I want to respect his topic of Fight Club.
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No worries, I enjoy the welding talk and the free bumps hahhaa TIG FTW for sure -- that is a clean weld! Pictures are helpful! Are you saying that you use diff. diameter rings for different rails? I figured they might be kinda standard.. hmm. I am using a fairly cheap HF one.. which is partially why I was questioning if I could even do it.. but it says it's good for mild steel, just not stainless. Lotta slag/cleanup, and not pretty welds but I think I can do better next time and I figure if they are plated that the plater would sandblast first so it would end up decent looking.
Quoted from TreyBo69:Love the cup holder. Is the cup in the game going to do anything? A flasher perhaps? Maybe you could have a weak flipper mode where you have to fuel up on caffeine by hitting the cup a few times
I’m glad pointing out the Starbucks cup thing inspired some more theme integration. Now about putting in the single frame of a naked dude randomly showing up while you play…
Treybo you are always full of awesome suggestions for games, I love it. Hadn't considered a light in the cup or more incoroprtation to the game, I'll think about that. The clip of naked dude -- I have a still of the film splice from the movie and final version probably will flash it at some point.. but for now I'm keeping it "family friendly" .. as much as I can, just because it's going to shows. I do have tyler popups that show up for like .25 of a second on the display randomly, like the film.
Quoted from toyotaboy:if you leave that mini starbucks cup over that target, you should play a clip of a starbucks cup everytime you hit it.
I like this as well -- if it stays there, I will incorporate more. Right now I have limited features for that target.. it works with the captive ball as part of the playfield multiplier logic but thats about it. my only issue with the cup there is that it blocks the view to the upper flipper partially.
Quoted from TreyBo69:Maybe if nothing else is going on, it could be a hurryup with a barista callout of a complex coffee order then a characters name (occasionally misspelled/pronounced)
"Quad Venti White Mocha Frappuccino for Tayler"
..writing all these ideas down, this is great!
Unless your powder coating your rails a specific color you would really be impressed with the stainless rods once they are sanded, stoned and polished.
Forgive me as I am Canadian and really hate standard rulers. That being said, a 7/8 impact socket makes 3cm width rails. That will produce the guide shown below. Once you hard wrap the rod and then cut rings they maintain shape and you can also flex them out if needed. Depending on your design you can make the rings bigger and do the same process and find the size that works for you. I would go a hair bigger than this, but I had this left over rail to show you the process.
You lower rail gap also affects spacing and speed. The one pictured below is a tight rail. The ball speed is very fast and direct and good for fast runs. They also work with bends and turns. You can increase that rail gap and have the ball make more contact. It slows the ball travel and effects stability on fast turns. The fast rails work great, but the upper rails need to be narrower like pictured to keep the ball in that channel. Too wide and the ball jumps and bounces off the upper rail and affects speed.
And you also can make rails with different shapes. Gotg I made hexagons. Watch the video and you will see the speed of the narrow lower rails and doing something besides rings as a design choice.
Can you post overhead pictures of you rails showing the path and design when you have time.
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Thanks for all the details and photos Loganpinball !! I will get a couple overhead shots up soon.
In meantime, shifted gears for a moment - working on the 3d modeling for the church. This is going way faster than the house, after a year of Fusion under my belt.. but still not quick by any means.
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I thought of a rule idea for the Starbucks cup target that combines the other ideas
When nothing else is going on, it will start a hurry up like Stranger Things upside down. That’s when the game will do a little light show, do a barista callout, then a hurry shot starts at the cup with a countdown value. You get the points and it adds part of those points to the base value for Starbucks Multiball.
After three collected hurry ups, you get a weak flipper multiball mode where you have to hit the cup to keep up your flipper power. Dimming lights and turning them off from back to front to help visualize your energy level.
I haven't watched the movie in a while, but a lot of effort is being discussed about something that was 'hidden' in the film.
I think the starbucks drink holder is a GREAT touch, and if anybody asks you can say 'just watch the movie', but doesn't a visible cup on the pf and modes seem too much?
Valid point. I think of it as how Williams made major features based of minor things in 90s games. Part of that was not being able to see the finished movie while making the game
Yeah - fair points about major modes around it.. although i do love hearing all the ideas. As far as on the playfield.. I do think I like it there, but I may end up "hiding" it a bit more, back by the pops where it was designed for actually. Or go with a smaller version over that target, would be the other option. It will get more thought..
8 hours in.. getting closer. I have no idea if these details will print well at all or not, which is a little nerve-wracking to spend 15-20hours on a model and not know..
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Resin printer is the way to go for details. I just picked two up and love it for the toys in my game.
Quoted from Octomodz:Resin printer is the way to go for details. I just picked two up and love it for the toys in my game.
yeah i saw that -- you're absolutely right but I also don't want to deal with the mess and another printer 
We'll see how it goes with the X1c and go from there.. if I have to pay someone to resin print it that's fine too I guess.. although I am hoping to do it in the marbolized white I just bought..dunno if resin has that kind of option
Quoted from Mbecker:I was thinking about it and this may be the first game with a Catholic Church Ball lock lol
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Waiting for Stern to respond with a papal themed game. Hit the Popemobile to light rosary!
Quoted from justyn:Waiting for Stern to respond with a papal themed game. Hit the Popemobile to light rosary!
Hahaha that’s great! Isn’t there also that swinging smoke ball ? Feel like a toy could be worked in there like the junkyard crane
Ate up a week, figuring out how to print this and combine bodies appropriately + add windows. Really close now, this will get assembled for a test fit. Then final adjustments + add a few attachment points as necessary. I went with the Marble PLA - which comes out great. The roof section I was surprised - prints almost completely w/out support and looks perfect on the bottom side after. Still tinkering with lighting and how to get a stained glass look thru the windows
Getting ancy to get back on code -- next up is to figure out this multiball for group lock and code it in. 5 months left till the next show...
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