Clytor Here's a link to the SS cabinets and heads needed/available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ss-heads-and-cabinets-needed-heads-and-cabinets-available

Still waiting on art improvements for playfields.

Out of curiosity, Who is working on those?

Waxon from Mexico. Rick from PPS has me on the playfield list to move forward. Rick has a em first playfield project in the works also. A race to see which one is done first this spring. I also talked with the CPR guys & they did not have this playfield title on their radar to do.

Well I finally brought my game in to get working. Got it playing w/ a few minor issues and now I am shopping it out. Does anyone know who carries these plastic lane guides? Didn't see them on Marco. When I measure for lenght, is it center to center from the screw holes?
Thanks for any advise!

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I have a complete light board, with harness, will send PM

Nevermind, I found those plastic guides.

Art is still being worked on.

Does anyone know where to get a rubber stopper for the flipper plunger?

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Call Steve at Pinball Resource. WLL-23-6577+ $0.50ea
http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/wll-23-6577+.jpg

After I did a pf tear down I rebuilt the flippers The right flipper works, left blows the flipper fuse. Realized had the wires reversed on the left coil. ( for some reason these were hard to see the stripes). Rewired and the fuse blew again. My thought is the diode was blown on the coil? If the board works for one flipper it would not likely be a board issue right?
(Don’t know if they worked before the game had no mpu/driver when I got it)

Swap the coils from side to side. See if it's still blows on the left side or if blowing fuse follows it to the right side.

Paint color.

I need to touch up the black paint inside the cabinet, just below the glass but just above the edges of the playfield.
What are you guys using?

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I used the creatix (spelling?) black
It wasn’t 100% match but I can live with black being close. When the game is on and the lights are flashing it tends to not be an issue. IMO

Any word?

Still no word. He was busy with life. Still waiting on another 2 projects which are still being worked on. Same situation. I continue on with my Star Gazer & Seawitch playfields. 24 & 30 of them getting ready for printing on demand (sales).

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...so.. they are going make playfeilds? How many and how much?

If they go into production. The price is likely around $800 US.

Hi, I'm new to pinball. My parents have had a Firepower II in their basement for 25+ years. Just recently opened the back box up (they didn’t have the key, so we had to drill it), and found out the driver board was completely corroded by the batteries.

I’m pretty handy with a soldering iron, but that’s just a ridiculous amount of soldering that I don’t have a lot of patience for.

I just ordered a Swemmer driver board (only one I could find in stock right now), do I need to use the Swemmer MPU board too? Or can I use the original MPU?

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The swemmer driver board should have the correct connector to attach to your original MPU.
But after 25 years..no key, I wouldn't trust the MPU board with having 25 year old batteries. I'm betting there a lot of damage to that board as well.

I have used Oneshot black, and a rag, and do a wash buff type effect to "stain" the color
back into dull areas.

Took out the MPU, driver, and power supply boards last night. Other than the corrosion on the battery holder, the MPU looks okay. Another post to follow with issues I found

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My MPU looked similar, I can see a couple of spots that need cleaned up on yours. Get those batteries off of there. Mine had enough corrosion that it ate up the battery terminals almost to nubs. I was able to save it by cleaning it up and installing a remote battery box and just running a couple of jumpers to the MPU. I had zero dripping down on the driver board.

I played it for years that way until some how my original ROM L1 chip died I'm curious to see if you have L1 or L2? (edit: I see you have v2) No one sells the L1 ROMs that I could find. I'm not even sure what the diff is between them, I was just sad that my original died. I wouldn't mind having a working L1 ROM again. Anyway.......After replacing that ROM chip, I went nuts and decided I needed to have spare parts/boards on hand so it would always be playable. So....... I bought a complete set of Kohout Enterprises boards (MPU,driver, sound, power). After waiting about 2 weeks and getting ZERO response out of them, even after I paid, no acknowledgement, nothing. I couldn't stand it any more, so then I jumped and bought a complete set of Swemmer boards (MPU,driver, sound, with an Xpin power board) I must have been lucky as I was able to order them all within a day or so of each other. As the swemmer boards arrived I swapped them all in pretty seamlessly one at a time. As I did all that I also added the FP1 speech/board. I love the speech!

Then a month or so later the Kohout boards showed up, so I had to test them. They work flawlessly. But I ended up going back to the swemmer boards just because of the leds he embeds. I thought they looked cooler when I open it up. By then I was hooked, I couldn't stop myself and upgraded the original glass displays to new LED's.

By the time I was done, I had 3 complete sets of replacement boards, and displays.
I'm invested now (I paid $0 for the game originally, so I'm good) I guess I'm keeping this running until I'm dead.

Haha that’s great.

I’m glad you like the Swemmer boards, might get the other boards in the future if needed.

My plan is to recondition the stock MPU and PSU, ordered new IDC headers and a new battery holder, and removed the old one. Just need to treat the corrosion and seal some spots with conformal coating, and to recap the PSU.

I accidentally broke a leg off of flipper rom 2 (the legs were disgusting black) so I had to desolder the socket and directly solder the rom to the MPU with a bodge for the broken pin.

I examined all the wires connected to the MPU, driver, and PSU when I removed them. There are two cables with messed up wiring.

The first one I can address with a splice, but I’ll have to rebuild the molex connector on the sound board. Not sure which connector this is or what pins to use
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Had to leave the club. Sold mine for 1500. Selling a few to get a nicer game.

Yeah, I know. But I got 2 more pins and a cocktail Galaga with the funds.

How's it looking on these?

Still waiting on the finish art from Mexico. Rick @ PPS has gone silent towards other titles with art ready. I would like to start with a EM title from PPS first. Might be Stern Big Game next hopefully this summer. Working on 50 Seawitch & Star Gazer playfields until the next art package is ready. Done 150+ new playfields the last 8 years.

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Gorgar and a Bobby Orr. I don't want the Gorgar, but I have someone who wants to buy it.

Got my game working today! First time it’s been turned on in 20 years!

Still needs to be cleaned and the play field serviced

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I’ve been play testing after completing my tear down and clean up.
One issue I found is the left flipper will start to stick up after playing for 15+ min. It does return but definitely is holding longer than it should. I can feel the plunger gets warmer than the right side. All flipper parts are new, eos switch opens plenty( I even opened wider to see). With no power I can’t get it to manually stick when I push it.
Only thing I can think of is that the plunger and links aren’t from the 80-83 rebuild.? But the right side is not effected.
Can the flipper board effect one side ?

How is the up/down play on that flipper bat? It will need a little play as not to bind .

It matches the other, there is some...
But That’s something easy I can adjust

I wonder if the pawl is striking the EOS and catching (sticking) . There should be a bit of shrink tube on the pawl striker arm .

I did mess with it , and there is some rubber on there. I can’t get it to stick up without the game in play.

Did you replace the sleeve? Could be magnetized... shaft could have a burr on it.

Every part is new except for the mounting bracket..
I will take it Apart , check the vertical play with the flipper shaft and see if I have a game specific plunger/link..

Maybe it needs a “spring washer”.

https://images.app.goo.gl/A3t5Z2PzKAgH6KA39

That's awesome! Nice job.

I didnt know those can be used williams games? I have only used them on gottlieb..will try that

Firepower II for sale
Home use only, typical playfield wear for a 40 year old Williams game.
Kingston, Canada
Willing to palletize and ship
$4000 CDN
$3250 USD

Got about an hour of decent play today, but then all of a sudden the ball eject wouldn’t work. When I powered it off and on again, the start button didn't start a new game. I noticed this blinking led on one of the solenoids on my Swemmer driver board, could that indicate an issue?

Also, I’ve never been able to get audit mode to work. It should come up when I power on with the coin door open, right? The buttons inside the coin door don’t do anything

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Yes

The buttons should work. The coin door being open is not significant for that task.

Okay, found out that a ball was stuck on the playfield somewhere so the game works again.

Does anyone know what Williams parts catalog goes with this game? The only one I can find is for 77-81: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK

Not sure how to debug why my coin door buttons don't work

Sadly, the game was made during the great pinball recession.
Space Shuttle/ Sorcerer... Have the most common parts to this game.
ref.
book 77-81 along with Williams Blue book.

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/F/Firepower_II_OPS.pdf

Someone can answer this better, but you want to check the connector for the door switches. Make sure that’s correct. I believe you can ground the switches on the board to determine if it’s a board issue or down the line to the buttons.

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The FP 2 backglass is 3/32 thick? Does anyone make a replacement lift trim for this?