(Topic ID: 248353)

The Firepower II Lounge...members and fans


By ss-pinball

1 year ago

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Topic Stats

  • 401 posts
  • 43 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by topkat
  • Topic is favorited by 21 Pinsiders

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“Firepower II replacements: plastics, back glasses, hard tops and playfields are not available. It would be helpful to have an idea how many owners would commit to purchasing the following. It would likely be a "limited edition" approach. see post #157”

  • Plastics 18 votes
    35%
  • Back Glass 11 votes
    22%
  • Hard Top 9 votes
    18%
  • Playfield 13 votes
    25%

(Multiple choice - 51 votes by 28 Pinsiders)

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There are 401 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 9.
#351 3 months ago
Quoted from Clytor:

I realize this is a tall order but anyway...
z

Parts - Wanted

Firepower 2 back box light/display panel insert

Wanted! “As stated”

14 days ago

Richmond, VA

Wanted

Clytor

Quoted from ss-pinball:

Have you guys checked for parted out Rollergames and Laser Cue machines? There are likely a few others...there's also a heads and cabinets thread for people looking for parts...it might we worthwhile to check that one out.

Clytor Here's a link to the SS cabinets and heads needed/available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ss-heads-and-cabinets-needed-heads-and-cabinets-available

#352 87 days ago

Still waiting on art improvements for playfields.

#353 87 days ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Still waiting on art improvements for playfields.

Out of curiosity, Who is working on those?

#354 87 days ago

Waxon from Mexico. Rick from PPS has me on the playfield list to move forward. Rick has a em first playfield project in the works also. A race to see which one is done first this spring. I also talked with the CPR guys & they did not have this playfield title on their radar to do.

2 weeks later
#355 73 days ago

Well I finally brought my game in to get working. Got it playing w/ a few minor issues and now I am shopping it out. Does anyone know who carries these plastic lane guides? Didn't see them on Marco. When I measure for lenght, is it center to center from the screw holes?
Thanks for any advise!

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#356 73 days ago
Quoted from Clytor:

I could use one of those for the short term too. What I'm mainly looking for the wooden panel that the back box lights and displays sit on.

I have a complete light board, with harness, will send PM

#357 73 days ago

Nevermind, I found those plastic guides.

#358 73 days ago

Art is still being worked on.

1 week later
#359 66 days ago

Does anyone know where to get a rubber stopper for the flipper plunger?

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#360 65 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Does anyone know where to get a rubber stopper for the flipper plunger?
[quoted image]

Call Steve at Pinball Resource. WLL-23-6577+ $0.50ea
http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/wll-23-6577+.jpg

2 weeks later
#361 49 days ago

After I did a pf tear down I rebuilt the flippers The right flipper works, left blows the flipper fuse. Realized had the wires reversed on the left coil. ( for some reason these were hard to see the stripes). Rewired and the fuse blew again. My thought is the diode was blown on the coil? If the board works for one flipper it would not likely be a board issue right?
(Don’t know if they worked before the game had no mpu/driver when I got it)

#362 48 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

After I did a pf tear down I rebuilt the flippers The right flipper works, left blows the flipper fuse. Realized had the wires reversed on the left coil. ( for some reason these were hard to see the stripes). Rewired and the fuse blew again. My thought is the diode was blown on the coil? If the board works for one flipper it would not likely be a board issue right?
(Don’t know if they worked before the game had no mpu/driver when I got it)

Swap the coils from side to side. See if it's still blows on the left side or if blowing fuse follows it to the right side.

#363 46 days ago

Paint color.

I need to touch up the black paint inside the cabinet, just below the glass but just above the edges of the playfield.
What are you guys using?

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#364 46 days ago

I used the creatix (spelling?) black
It wasn’t 100% match but I can live with black being close. When the game is on and the lights are flashing it tends to not be an issue. IMO

#365 45 days ago

I went to Lowe's and got a sample and told them to mix the "blackest black" they had.
it is a mid range finish--semi-gloss or something one step less glossy.
Looks fine on Blackout and Firepower II for touchups.
Will probably use it on Meteor too.
I would only use a touchup paint like this on corners and dings...I wouldn't do it for an entire surface unless you were prepared to take the time to re-do the entire surface.

EDIT: to be clear that is what I did to the exterior of the cabinet. I'm not sure I'd bother repainting the inside. I might consider mirrors or something.

1 week later
#366 32 days ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Art is still being worked on.

Any word?

#367 32 days ago

Still no word. He was busy with life. Still waiting on another 2 projects which are still being worked on. Same situation. I continue on with my Star Gazer & Seawitch playfields. 24 & 30 of them getting ready for printing on demand (sales).

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#368 31 days ago

...so.. they are going make playfeilds? How many and how much?

#369 31 days ago

If they go into production. The price is likely around $800 US.

#370 29 days ago

Hi, I'm new to pinball. My parents have had a Firepower II in their basement for 25+ years. Just recently opened the back box up (they didn’t have the key, so we had to drill it), and found out the driver board was completely corroded by the batteries.

I’m pretty handy with a soldering iron, but that’s just a ridiculous amount of soldering that I don’t have a lot of patience for.

I just ordered a Swemmer driver board (only one I could find in stock right now), do I need to use the Swemmer MPU board too? Or can I use the original MPU?

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#371 28 days ago
Quoted from Dubesinhower:

Hi, I'm new to pinball. My parents have had a Firepower II in their basement for 25+ years. Just recently opened the back box up (they didn’t have the key, so we had to drill it), and found out the driver board was completely corroded by the batteries.
I’m pretty handy with a soldering iron, but that’s just a ridiculous amount of soldering that I don’t have a lot of patience for.
I just ordered a Swemmer driver board (only one I could find in stock right now), do I need to use the Swemmer MPU board too? Or can I use the original MPU?

The swemmer driver board should have the correct connector to attach to your original MPU.
But after 25 years..no key, I wouldn't trust the MPU board with having 25 year old batteries. I'm betting there a lot of damage to that board as well.

#372 28 days ago
Quoted from nglayton:

Paint color.
I need to touch up the black paint inside the cabinet, just below the glass but just above the edges of the playfield.
What are you guys using?
[quoted image]

I have used Oneshot black, and a rag, and do a wash buff type effect to "stain" the color
back into dull areas.

#373 28 days ago
Quoted from nglayton:

The swemmer driver board should have the correct connector to attach to your original MPU.
But after 25 years..no key, I wouldn't trust the MPU board with having 25 year old batteries. I'm betting there a lot of damage to that board as well.

Took out the MPU, driver, and power supply boards last night. Other than the corrosion on the battery holder, the MPU looks okay. Another post to follow with issues I found

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#374 27 days ago
Quoted from Dubesinhower:

Took out the MPU, driver, and power supply boards last night. Other than the corrosion on the battery holder, the MPU looks okay. Another post to follow with issues I found

My MPU looked similar, I can see a couple of spots that need cleaned up on yours. Get those batteries off of there. Mine had enough corrosion that it ate up the battery terminals almost to nubs. I was able to save it by cleaning it up and installing a remote battery box and just running a couple of jumpers to the MPU. I had zero dripping down on the driver board.

I played it for years that way until some how my original ROM L1 chip died I'm curious to see if you have L1 or L2? (edit: I see you have v2) No one sells the L1 ROMs that I could find. I'm not even sure what the diff is between them, I was just sad that my original died. I wouldn't mind having a working L1 ROM again. Anyway.......After replacing that ROM chip, I went nuts and decided I needed to have spare parts/boards on hand so it would always be playable. So....... I bought a complete set of Kohout Enterprises boards (MPU,driver, sound, power). After waiting about 2 weeks and getting ZERO response out of them, even after I paid, no acknowledgement, nothing. I couldn't stand it any more, so then I jumped and bought a complete set of Swemmer boards (MPU,driver, sound, with an Xpin power board) I must have been lucky as I was able to order them all within a day or so of each other. As the swemmer boards arrived I swapped them all in pretty seamlessly one at a time. As I did all that I also added the FP1 speech/board. I love the speech!

Then a month or so later the Kohout boards showed up, so I had to test them. They work flawlessly. But I ended up going back to the swemmer boards just because of the leds he embeds. I thought they looked cooler when I open it up. By then I was hooked, I couldn't stop myself and upgraded the original glass displays to new LED's.

By the time I was done, I had 3 complete sets of replacement boards, and displays.
I'm invested now (I paid $0 for the game originally, so I'm good) I guess I'm keeping this running until I'm dead.

#375 27 days ago
Quoted from nglayton:

My MPU looked similar, I can see a couple of spots that need cleaned up on yours. Get those batteries off of there. Mine had enough corrosion that it ate up the battery terminals almost to nubs. I was able to save it by cleaning it up and installing a remote battery box and just running a couple of jumpers to the MPU. I had zero dripping down on the driver board.
I played it for years that way until some how my original ROM L1 chip died I'm curious to see if you have L1 or L2? (edit: I see you have v2) No one sells the L1 ROMs that I could find. I'm not even sure what the diff is between them, I was just sad that my original died. I wouldn't mind having a working L1 ROM again. Anyway.......After replacing that ROM chip, I went nuts and decided I needed to have spare parts/boards on hand so it would always be playable. So....... I bought a complete set of Kohout Enterprises boards (MPU,driver, sound, power). After waiting about 2 weeks and getting ZERO response out of them, even after I paid, no acknowledgement, nothing. I couldn't stand it any more, so then I jumped and bought a complete set of Swemmer boards (MPU,driver, sound, with an Xpin power board) I must have been lucky as I was able to order them all within a day or so of each other. As the swemmer boards arrived I swapped them all in pretty seamlessly one at a time. As I did all that I also added the FP1 speech/board. I love the speech!
Then a month or so later the Kohout boards showed up, so I had to test them. They work flawlessly. But I ended up going back to the swemmer boards just because of the leds he embeds. I thought they looked cooler when I open it up. By then I was hooked, I couldn't stop myself and upgraded the original glass displays to new LED's.
By the time I was done, I had 3 complete sets of replacement boards, and displays.
I'm invested now (I paid $0 for the game originally, so I'm good) I guess I'm keeping this running until I'm dead.

Haha that’s great.

I’m glad you like the Swemmer boards, might get the other boards in the future if needed.

My plan is to recondition the stock MPU and PSU, ordered new IDC headers and a new battery holder, and removed the old one. Just need to treat the corrosion and seal some spots with conformal coating, and to recap the PSU.

I accidentally broke a leg off of flipper rom 2 (the legs were disgusting black) so I had to desolder the socket and directly solder the rom to the MPU with a bodge for the broken pin.

I examined all the wires connected to the MPU, driver, and PSU when I removed them. There are two cables with messed up wiring.

The first one I can address with a splice, but I’ll have to rebuild the molex connector on the sound board. Not sure which connector this is or what pins to use
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#376 23 days ago

Had to leave the club. Sold mine for 1500. Selling a few to get a nicer game.

1 week later
#377 17 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Had to leave the club. Sold mine for 1500. Selling a few to get a nicer game.

#378 13 days ago

Yeah, I know. But I got 2 more pins and a cocktail Galaga with the funds.

#379 12 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Yeah, I know. But I got 2 more pins and a cocktail Galaga with the funds.

which two pins?

#380 12 days ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

If they go into production. The price is likely around $800 US.

How's it looking on these?

#381 12 days ago

Still waiting on the finish art from Mexico. Rick @ PPS has gone silent towards other titles with art ready. I would like to start with a EM title from PPS first. Might be Stern Big Game next hopefully this summer. Working on 50 Seawitch & Star Gazer playfields until the next art package is ready. Done 150+ new playfields the last 8 years.

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#382 12 days ago

Gorgar and a Bobby Orr. I don't want the Gorgar, but I have someone who wants to buy it.

#383 11 days ago

Got my game working today! First time it’s been turned on in 20 years!

Still needs to be cleaned and the play field serviced

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#384 11 days ago

I’ve been play testing after completing my tear down and clean up.
One issue I found is the left flipper will start to stick up after playing for 15+ min. It does return but definitely is holding longer than it should. I can feel the plunger gets warmer than the right side. All flipper parts are new, eos switch opens plenty( I even opened wider to see). With no power I can’t get it to manually stick when I push it.
Only thing I can think of is that the plunger and links aren’t from the 80-83 rebuild.? But the right side is not effected.
Can the flipper board effect one side ?

#385 11 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

I’ve been play testing after completing my tear down and clean up.
One issue I found is the left flipper will start to stick up after playing for 15+ min. It does return but definitely is holding longer than it should. I can feel the plunger gets warmer than the right side. All flipper parts are new, eos switch opens plenty( I even opened wider to see). With no power I can’t get it to manually stick when I push it.
Only thing I can think of is that the plunger and links aren’t from the 80-83 rebuild.? But the right side is not effected.
Can the flipper board effect one side ?

How is the up/down play on that flipper bat? It will need a little play as not to bind .

#386 11 days ago
Quoted from chad:

How is the up/down play on that flipper bat? It will need a little play as not to bind .

It matches the other, there is some...
But That’s something easy I can adjust

#387 11 days ago

I wonder if the pawl is striking the EOS and catching (sticking) . There should be a bit of shrink tube on the pawl striker arm .

#388 11 days ago
Quoted from chad:

I wonder if the pawl is striking the EOS and catching (sticking) . There should be a bit of shrink tube on the pawl striker arm .

I did mess with it , and there is some rubber on there. I can’t get it to stick up without the game in play.

#389 11 days ago

Did you replace the sleeve? Could be magnetized... shaft could have a burr on it.

#390 11 days ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Did you replace the sleeve? Could be magnetized... shaft could have a burr on it.

Every part is new except for the mounting bracket..
I will take it Apart , check the vertical play with the flipper shaft and see if I have a game specific plunger/link..

#392 10 days ago
Quoted from Dubesinhower:

Got my game working today! First time it’s been turned on in 20 years!
Still needs to be cleaned and the play field serviced
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's awesome! Nice job.

#393 10 days ago

I didnt know those can be used williams games? I have only used them on gottlieb..will try that

#394 10 days ago

Firepower II for sale
Home use only, typical playfield wear for a 40 year old Williams game.
Kingston, Canada
Willing to palletize and ship
$4000 CDN
$3250 USD

#395 7 days ago

Got about an hour of decent play today, but then all of a sudden the ball eject wouldn’t work. When I powered it off and on again, the start button didn't start a new game. I noticed this blinking led on one of the solenoids on my Swemmer driver board, could that indicate an issue?

Also, I’ve never been able to get audit mode to work. It should come up when I power on with the coin door open, right? The buttons inside the coin door don’t do anything

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#396 7 days ago
Quoted from Dubesinhower:

noticed this blinking led on one of the solenoids on my Swemmer driver board, could that indicate an issue?

Yes

Quoted from Dubesinhower:

Also, I’ve never been able to get audit mode to work. It should come up when I power on with the coin door open, right? The buttons inside the coin door don’t do anything

The buttons should work. The coin door being open is not significant for that task.

#397 6 days ago

Okay, found out that a ball was stuck on the playfield somewhere so the game works again.

Does anyone know what Williams parts catalog goes with this game? The only one I can find is for 77-81: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK

Not sure how to debug why my coin door buttons don't work

#398 6 days ago
Quoted from Dubesinhower:

Okay, found out that a ball was stuck on the playfield somewhere so the game works again.
Does anyone know what Williams parts catalog goes with this game? The only one I can find is for 77-81: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK
Not sure how to debug why my coin door buttons don't work

Sadly, the game was made during the great pinball recession.
Space Shuttle/ Sorcerer... Have the most common parts to this game.
ref.
book 77-81 along with Williams Blue book.

#399 6 days ago

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/F/Firepower_II_OPS.pdf

Someone can answer this better, but you want to check the connector for the door switches. Make sure that’s correct. I believe you can ground the switches on the board to determine if it’s a board issue or down the line to the buttons.

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#400 5 days ago

The FP 2 backglass is 3/32 thick? Does anyone make a replacement lift trim for this?

There are 401 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 9.

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